Old Crow, Sierra Ferrell, and More Ring in 25 Years of Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion

As long as I can remember, I’ve been enamoured with the small mountain town of Bristol, Tenn./Va. Growing up I idolized NASCAR drivers like Jeff Gordon and Dale Earnhardt who mastered the half-mile bullring just south of town, but it wasn’t until adulthood when I fell in love with it all over again and came to know it as the birthplace of country music.

That happened during my inaugural trip there in 2021 to attend the Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion, where I not only got to see performers like Sierra Ferrell and Charley Crockett for the first time, but also became immersed in the town’s history in music. After numerous return visits on travels to and from my native Kentucky, I finally made it back to Bristol last week to celebrate a quarter century of the festival, acknowledge the 1927 sessions that became the Big Bang of Country Music, and get hyped for the rising stars who will be guiding the tradition forward for years to come.

Arguably the biggest connection between country music’s past and present at the gathering was Old Crow Medicine Show, who closed out the festival on Sunday evening with the unmatched energy we’ve all come to know and love from frontman Ketch Secor. Watching Secor’s jubilant dancing and other onstage antics is just as, if not more entertaining than the band itself, which has been blazing trails and growing the reach of roots music for even longer than the festival has been around.

That longevity led to a catalog spanning set highlighted by hits like “Cocaine,” “Alabama High Test,” and of course, “Wagon Wheel.” However, its grandest moment came when Secor officially kicked off the 100-year celebration of the 1927 Bristol recording sessions by Ralph Peer with a touching cover of Jimmie Rodgers’ “Waiting for a Train.” Despite the song being recorded in Atlanta in 1928, Rodgers is widely regarded as the biggest breakout star of the Bristol Sessions alongside The Carter Family, making the song’s inclusion a poignant recognition of the city’s historical role in country music and how it still has its finger on the pulse of that tradition to this day.

But Old Crow’s homage was far from the only celebration of country music’s most influential figures throughout the weekend. Rising star Maggie Antone was joined by her partner and bandmate, Garrett Murph, for a duet on John Prine and Iris Dement’s “In Spite Of Ourselves,” Sierra Ferrell drummed up her rendition of John Anderson’s “Years,” Meels and Darrell Scott both honored Dolly Parton with performances of “Do I Ever Cross Your Mind?” and “In The Good Old Days (When Times Were Bad),” and The Creekers got grassy on The Steeldrivers’ “Blue Side of the Mountain.”

Even though these songs aren’t direct connections to those who participated in the 1927 sessions, I can’t help but feel like their significance and perhaps even their mere existence wouldn’t be a thing if Peer hadn’t traveled to Bristol that one fateful summer and lit the fuse for what became country music’s big bang. But that butterfly effect doesn’t stop with just country music. The “roots” element of Bristol Rhythm & Roots was on full display during the festival’s 25th iteration with acts like Los Lobos, who got the crowd dancing on “La Bamba.” Additionally, Jim Lauderdale — who in 2021 had a stage next to the Sessions Hotel in downtown Bristol renamed in his honor — lauded George Jones and Gram Parsons with his original tune “The King of Broken Hearts” that another legend, George Strait, went on to record in 1992.

Then there was the southern rock and soul sounds of Caitlin Krisko & The Broadcast and The Band Loula.

The former is a group I first stumbled upon a decade ago during my first big solo music trip to attend the Suwannee Springfest in Florida, where I recall being blindsided by Krisko’s immaculate voice that channels the very best of powerhouse vocalists like Susan Tedeschi and Bonnie Raitt. The band’s Saturday evening Bristol set from the Lauderdale Stage was no exception, with Krisko and company tearing into originals like “Keep on Trying” and “Something Sweet” from its new record Heirloom in addition to a cover of the Ray Charles classic “Drown In My Own Tears.”

On the flipside, one of my biggest surprises of the weekend came with The Band Loula. I recall first having the North Georgia group put on my radar last year when I interviewed Trisha Yearwood and she praised the band and specifically vocalist Logan Simmons as a woman to watch in country music, but Bristol Rhythm & Roots was my first time actually getting to see them. Taking to Cumberland Square Park, the group wasted no time during the heat of the day in getting hot and sweaty with their self-described “swampgrass” on cuts like Roberta Flack’s 1973 classic “Killing Me Softly With His Song” and their haunting original “A Little at a Time.”

But without a doubt my favorite set from the entire weekend belonged to River Shook. Only added to the festival a day prior to taking the stage (when Sunny Sweeney withdrew following a death in her family), Shook reveled in the last-minute gig that marked their first show back in Bristol since performing at the Reunion in 2018 with their former band, Sarah Shook & The Disarmers. The Sunday afternoon set saw the group performing its grungy alt-country songs both new and old like “Good as Gold,” “Country Angel,” “Sidelong” and “F**k Up,” with guitarist Blake Tallent cutting through the midday heat like a knife through butter with his simmering guitar solos that left Shook’s songs sounding more vibrant and polished than ever before.

Then following their full-band set, Shook and Tallent appeared inside the Birthplace of Country Music Museum for a pop-up duo set to be featured on an upcoming edition of the BGS Sessions. There they served up raw and acoustic versions of tunes like “Lost Without Your Love” and the new, unreleased “California Dreaming,” pulling back the curtain and offering a behind-the-scenes glimpse at the raw origins of their music in the process.

All of this contributed to Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion being one of my favorite festivals of the year alongside Laurel Cove Music Festival back home in Kentucky. With a mix of racing and music history, the diverse sounds that converge at the festival and the quaint, walkable downtown where the only traffic comes by foot, there’s truly something for everyone in Bristol — no matter which side of the state line you stand on.


Photo Credit: Billie Wheeler (Old Crow Medicine Show’s Ketch Secor and Chance McCoy)

From Bristol Sessions to Bessie Smith, East Tennessee Is Rich in Musical History

The Volunteer State has long been at the center of the music world, and East Tennessee destinations like Bristol, Johnson City, Knoxville and Chattanooga all have their own unique history and stories to tell about their roles in evolving the American music experience.

To shine a light on these musical destinations sometimes overshadowed by the behemoth of Nashville to the west, we’ve gathered over a dozen attractions worth visiting from Bristol’s Burger Bar to Knoxville’s Blue Plate Special and Chattanooga’s Songbirds Vintage Guitar & Pop Culture Museum. Spanning the realms of country, bluegrass, folk, hip-hop, blues and more, each stop is guaranteed to empower, inform, inspire and excite the music fan in every one of us.

Bristol

A couple years after the Grand Ole Opry launched in 1925, Ralph Peer of the Victor Talking Machine Company ventured to Bristol in 1927 to record sessions that would later be referred to as the “Big Bang” of modern day country music. Participating artists like the Carter Family, Jimmie Rodgers and the Stoneman Family are featured throughout the Birthplace of Country Music Museum. The brand new exhibit titled I’ve Endured: Women in Old-Time Music is on display now through 2023.

Located just on the Virginia side of the state line, the space digs into the circumstances that brought the sessions to Bristol in 1927 along with the artists included in them, how the sessions have and continue to shape country music in the present, and more. It also explores how festivals, the church, radio and Hollywood have helped to further propel country music into the mainstream way of life through displays, interactive exhibits, short films and more. With the museum having just been awarded over $1 million in grants to help fund expansion, visitors can expect even more from the space in the coming months and years.

Speaking of festivals, since 2001 the museum has also produced the popular Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion festival on the streets and in bars around the small mountain town. Over 30,000 music fans flock to the area every second weekend of September for the event honoring not only Bristol’s history as the “Birthplace of Country Music,” but the future artists that are helping to guide and redefine country and roots music in the present. Its 2022 gathering lived up to that and then some with performances from living legends like Tanya Tucker, Del McCoury and Rosanne Cash, and rising stars like Sierra Ferrell, 49 Winchester and Molly Tuttle.

A couple blocks away from the museum nestled on the corner of State Street and Piedmont Avenue you’ll find the renowned Burger Bar. In addition to serving up the best burgers and chili dogs in all of Bristol, the diner is best known for being the last place Hank Williams was seen alive. Williams was in the process of riding from Montgomery, Alabama, to Canton, Ohio, to play a show on New Year’s Eve 1952 when he died in the back seat of the car transporting him not long after leaving Bristol.

A short walk west down State Street will lead you to another tribute to the twin city’s claim as the Birthplace of Country Music, this time in the form of a 30 x 100 foot mural. First painted by artist, musician and radio host Tim White in 1986, the mural depicts the aforementioned Rodgers, Carters and Stonemans alongside Peer as musical notes flutter up the brick wall between them.

Less than a five minute drive from downtown Bristol you’ll stumble upon “Tennessee” Ernie Ford’s birth home. Born in Bristol in 1919, Ford went on to become a world famous singer, TV and radio star. The home, now owned by the Bristol Historical Association, is open for tours and houses countless personal items and memorabilia from the town’s most cherished son.

Johnson City

Twenty-five miles south of Bristol in Johnson City is another East Tennessee mainstay, The Down Home. Founded in 1976, the listening room style club has played host to artists like Kenny Chesney, Alison Krauss and The Dixie Chicks prior to them making it big. Bigger named acts like “Pancho and Lefty” songwriter Townes Van Zandt, bluesman Willie Dixon and A Prairie Home Companion collaborators Robin and Linda Williams have also performed there. More recently other local artists like Southwest Virginia’s 49 Winchester have continued that legacy by performing in the iconic space regularly, which hosts live music anywhere from two to four nights per week.

Knoxville

If Nashville is the center of music in Middle Tennessee, then Greater Knoxville is the center in East Tennessee, and it all begins before you even get into town. Located about 20 miles north of downtown, the Museum of Appalachia houses a pioneer village, historical relics and a Hall of Fame. The latter includes everything from Native American relics to collectibles from regional political, military and everyday figures along with musicians like Roy Acuff, Bill Monroe, The Carter Family, John Hartford and Redd Stewart whose music came to define the region.

Upon arriving in Knoxille proper, I’d recommend stretching out with the Cradle of Country Music Walking Tour. Comprised of 19 locations with an estimated completion time of an hour, the self-guided tour includes stops everywhere from the Tennessee Theatre (the official state theatre of Tennessee and site of the first public performance of Roy Acuff) to the Andrew Johnson Hotel (the original home of country music variety show The Midday Merry-Go-Round and where Hank Williams spent the last night of his life), to Market Square (where Sam Morrison of Bell Sales Company helped to launch Elvis Presley’s career in the 1950s by promoting “That’s All Right, Mama” on the loudspeakers).

Along the path of the walking tour you’ll also come across the Knoxville Visitor Center and WDVX 89.9 FM. Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and on Saturday from noon to 1 p.m., the independent radio station hosts its signature program, the Blue Plate Special, in front of a live audience. Hosted by Red Hickey and Sean McCollough, the show features music and conversation from a variety of up-and-coming roots musicians. Past performers have included The Avett Brothers, Old Crow Medicine Show and Chris Stapleton. However, when we visited the featured artists were Portland-based A.C. Sapphire and Kendall Lujan, along with Sierra Leone-born, Nashville-based Senie Hunt.

Once that wraps up you can finish off your musical escapades just down Gay Street at the Museum of East Tennessee History. Operated by The East Tennessee Historical Society, the building is home of everything from the Knox County Archives to the Museum of East Tennessee History, the latter of which houses an epic collection of artifacts and music memorabilia from Dolly Parton, Billy Bowman, the Bristol Sessions and more.

Sevierville and Pigeon Forge

We would be remiss if we didn’t mention Dollywood in a story about East Tennessee. After pulling over for pancakes at family-friendly Flapjacks, start your day in the town square of Sevierville. It’s impossible to tell Dolly Parton’s life story without speaking about her reverence for the Smoky Mountains and Sevier County especially. At the courthouse, you’ll want to snap a photo with the Dolly Parton statue on the courthouse lawn, created by sculptor Jim Gray.

For years, the Chasing Rainbows Museum at Dollywood has told Parton’s rags-to-riches story — and in her case, those rags led to the famous “Coat of Many Colors.” Parton herself revealed that the museum is being reinvented as the Dolly Parton Experience, set to open in 2024. (Cue: “Here You Come Again.”) One of the best breaks in the park is maybe sharing a loaf of cinnamon break in the rocking chairs in front of the grist mill. Still hungry after that? Dolly Parton’s Stampede provides a memorable, show-stopping experience and a four-course feast, sometimes served with forks.

Chattanooga

Just over an hour and a half southwest of Knoxville you’ll find another music-friendly city in Chattanooga. Located along the Tennessee-Georgia border, the city’s roots run deep in country, blues, hip hop and more, all of which you can learn about at the Bessie Smith Cultural Center and Chattanooga African American Museum. Inside you’ll find displays highlighting all of the city’s Black history including music with displays honoring hometown heroes like Usher, Kane Brown, The Impressions and the building’s namesake, Bessie Smith.

The Tennessee Aquarium draws most of the crowds downtown, while Rock City and Ruby Falls beckon tourists to Lookout Mountain. The city also has a terrific greenway system with artistic mile markers along the river. One of them just might be a silhouette of Bill Monroe. Speaking of bluegrass, drop in for breakfast at the Bluegrass Grill in downtown Chattanooga. Just around the corner you’ll find a brewpub, a chocolate shop, a distillery, and an ice cream store, all with local ties.

After singing a few lines about the famous Chattanooga Choo Choo, located on the grounds of a historic hotel, you can trace the modern history of the guitar at the nearby Songbirds Vintage Guitar & Pop Culture Museum. Much like the Bessie Smith Center, the museum recognizes local heroes while also wielding an insane — and growing — collection of vintage guitars, amps, and pedals. Current highlights on display when I visited included guitars from Duane Allman and Merle Travis, who is also featured at the Muhlenberg Music & History Museum mentioned in our previous story on Kentucky’s top music tourism destinations.

An hour northwest of Chattanooga — and just barely inside the confines of East Tennessee for the purpose of this story — sits The Caverns. The sought after getaway takes musicians and concertgoers alike underground for an unparalleled live music experience. The gritty grotto is most notably home to PBS television series The Caverns Sessions (formerly Bluegrass Underground), which has already announced performances from Sierra Ferrell, Allison Russell, The Lil Smokies and more in 2023. Guided tours of the cave system are also available seven days a week. If the timing lines up, consider checking out the Big Mouth Bluegrass Festival (July 1-2, 2023) or CaveFest (October 6-8).

For more information on tourism destinations throughout East Tennessee, visit TNVacation.com.


Photo Credit: Tennessee Tourism/Andrew Saucier