Pokey LaFarge Finds No Comfort in Sameness

“Working with Knickerbocker Mfg. Co., for me, is about the pursuit of original artistic expression and promoting high quality clothing, while simultaneously protesting the enticing comforts of sameness, which work to water down our life. Make it strong, make it loud, and make it last.” — Pokey LaFarge

I first learned of Pokey LaFarge from a photographer friend, Nate Burrell. While scrolling through his beautiful Instagram feed of shows, BTS of festivals, and musicians, there’s a particular gentleman that became familiar. Was he a friend, a muse, or a little of both? I didn’t know. But everything from his posture to his surroundings, hair, and clothing screams style and vibe of a generation long gone. I understood why this gent was a reoccurring subject in Nate’s photos. Curiosity got the best of me, and I got to know (thanks Google!) the sound and style of Pokey LaFarge.

Within our world of ever-changing trends, Pokey LaFarge has somehow held fast to a sound and style he identified with early on. For him, style seems to radiate from the core and reach into every aspect of his being. He credits hometown St. Louis artist Nicolas Africano with opening his eyes to what he believes style to be — a reflection of who a person is and not just the layers you wear. Pokey’s duds are very specific and, after sharing a late morning with him at Grimey’s New & Pre-Loved Music, I’d say they describe him well. 

The day I met up with Pokey to talk style and snap a few photos, his look had a fresh-off-the bus feel with a sharp-dressed outfit that was reminiscent of a polished up, early 20th-century, American blue collar worker. My thoughts went to workout and lounge clothing … Are those “on brand,” too? If so, I’m envious. Our meet was just before his haircut appointment, so he excused his hair and said a hat was necessary. Being a hat lover, this was music to my ears. Below the Newsy hat, he was sporting a fitted, white button-down; blue, belted chinos (blue, always blue) that rested higher on the hip than today’s trendy low-rise chinos; striped socks; flat, lace-up canvas tennis shoes; and nearby was his denim chore coat. Nothing flashy, yet he stood out. Just about everything — sans socks, shoes, and skivvies — was part of a clothing collaboration with Knickerbocker MFG Co

Knickerbocker MFG Co. is an American-made clothing manufacturer rooted in tradition and community — a company that is going to take the long route creating a piece, if it means creating something that’s in line with their values and that will honor those in their craft who came before them. When you read about the company, there is hardly anything written about the threads. It’s all about the roots, values, and people involved. The more time I spent speaking with Pokey, the more intriguing I found this collaboration. Sure, I could chalk it up to a man and a company, two old souls working together, but it’s more than that. It’s a man and the folks from a company working together to celebrate the character, charm, and quality in these hand-made American staples of the past. 

While we sifted through records — and I clicked away on the camera — conversation with Pokey was something of the past. He didn’t respond to my questions with the usual quick, programmed, auto-responses that, sadly, I expect from a new acquaintance. Pokey took his time. His facial expressions revealed if I had asked something too trite, and yet he would pause, gather, and deliver a thoughtful response. It caught me off guard and made me think: With conversation at our fingertips (emails, texts, social media), how much of my face-to-face conversations have dwindled down to abbreviations where there was once the art of conversation?

Style, class, and vibe are shining from the core of Pokey LaFarge, and I happily learned a thing or two about it that day. Oscar Wilde said, “One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art.” Pokey LaFarge is both.

Jonny P Wears It Well

On a recent gray summer morning, Jonny P and I met up at 8th Avenue Antiques in Nashville, Tennessee. From the exterior, 8th looks like an excellent antique shop you’d check out for furniture and other home goods — and it is. But it is also a trove of well-preserved vintage clothing. I arrived a little early to get my camera set up inside the shop, keeping one eye on the door. Folks young and old trickled in wearing their sleepy, rainy day duds and then in walked Jonny P. I had never met him before, and he was backlit from the cloudy soft-box-like light outside, but without question, I knew it was him just by his stride and silhouette. He’s the only man I’ve seen in Nashville with a silhouette that sharp. As for the stride, it’s one that says style is more than the items you wear.

For those not really hip to Jonny P and all his skills, he was once the “J” in J and HP Clothing that provided both ready-to-wear and custom items ranging from re-purposed vintage to bespoke suiting. With a history of tailoring, suiting, and vintage riding in his back pocket, it’s no wonder his stylish ways appear to be effortless.

Other than his ability to tailor his wardrobe to his build, something unique to his style is the way he combines textures, styles, and color in non-traditional ways. Pulling inspiration from suited older men and trend-setting skate culture, his outfits almost always combine current staples and fun vintage pieces in a fresh way. He calls his current wave of style funky-urban, tailored vintage, and he wears it well.

In a culture saturated in fast fashion, it makes sense that the person drawn to the art of tailoring would also have a great appreciation for the craftsmanship of past clothing. The quality and vibe created in those old, woven threads have withstood decades, inspired countless designers, and cannot be duplicated. After about a half-hour or so of talking and studying the items Jonny P took interest in, I had questions … How does one know what vintage pieces will hold up? What alterations are possible? What makes a vintage piece a good addition to mix in with a current closet? Since Jonny P is the expert in tailoring and vintage, I trusted him to educate me in what to look for in a lasting vintage piece, especially one that I purchase with the intention of altering.

When considering a vintage purchase, Jonny P keeps his selection terms pretty simple. He’s on the hunt for uniqueness, quality, and the right price:

  • Uniqueness: Beautiful silhouettes, colors, patterns, textures, unabashed voice, and vibe are immediate draws. Right now, Jonny P is especially interested in patchwork and collegiate details.
  • Quality: Making sure the fabric is durable enough for more mileage is important, especially in tension areas such as knees, butt, elbows, and along the seams — strong stitching, attention to detail, seams.
  • Price: Since the item will most likely need alterations, make sure the original cost is low enough that the additional cost of alterations doesn’t surpass the value of the item itself.

When purchasing a piece — new or old — with hopes of alterations, there are two main problem areas to be aware of:

  • Shoulders: According to Jonny P, the shoulder area is one of the trickiest to alter. When interested in a shirt or jacket, do yourself a favor and make sure the fit in the shoulders is good from the start.
  • Sleeve length: Sleeves can always be shortened, but if the sleeve is a questionable length, roll it back and check the seam allowance. Make sure there is room to let it out, if necessary.

Other than those two areas, most alterations are possible. Jonny P left me with one final bit he believes to be true: Style isn’t the items you wear; it’s you and how you wear the pieces.

We had a rainy end to our meet up. He got in his candy red ’64 Chevy Impala, grabbed his Stetson from the passenger seat, posed for one last shot while the rain picked up and then headed out. As for me, my previously straightened hair was curling up and frizzing. I caught a glimpse of my crazy hair in the reflection of my car window, laughed, and told myself to wear it well.

Amanda Shires Flips Her Lid

The only place I would ever call home, outside of the Lone Star State, would be Tennessee. Sure, one is in the South and has the best fried green tomatoes and hot chicken. The other is in the West and has breakfast burritos and endless amounts of Topo Chico (if you don’t know, now you do), but there is definitely a common thread between these two states when it comes down to the people, music, and style.

Being the clothing junkie that I am, one of my style connections between Texas and Tennessee is the love of hats and boots. (We will save boots for another day.) Much like a graphic tee, a hat can tell you a lot about a person without spelling it out. With the switch of a hat, you can take your look from Doll to Outlaw, and vice versa. (Speaking of Outlaws … any fellow hat lovers crushing on the Waylon-inspired collaboration between Stetson and Midnight Rider? I can’t wait to get my hands on the Lash Stetson.) That’s why I never leave home without one on my head, in my car, or stuffed in a bag.

One of my most-favorite style secrets is my hats. It’s especially great if you are a traveler, like me. You would be surprised at how different your look will change based on a few items. When I pack, I am often limited to one bag so I have to be mindful of what I pack. This isn’t such a bad thing — who wants to lug around a ton of stuff anyway? In my bag I put my favorite hat, a pair of boots to compliment the hat, one pair of denim, a jacket (denim or leather, depending on season), and I fill the rest with various top options.

Amanda Shires is one of my favorite people to travel with and she happens to have a killer hat collection. Also from Texas, she’s a lover of quality hats like the Stetson, and is always introducing me to new hat makers and designers. When I met up with Amanda a couple of weeks ago, she was rocking an awesome, wide-brimmed hat from White’s Mercantile. What really set the hat apart for me was the thin gold metal hatband. Needless to say, this lead to a fun afternoon of trying on the Mercantile's great selection of hats. The two beautiful hats shown in the photos are James (brown) by Janessa Leone and the Floppy Brim Fedora by Rag and Bone (black). Amanda wears them with some of her favorite Midnight Rider t-shirts. 

Grab your best friend and go try on some fun hats. Pick something you wouldn’t normally go for. Maybe that means a larger brim or brown versus black. I promise you’ll walk away with a big smile and rocking a new style. I’m interested to know where you are finding your awesome hats. Let us know!

Reuben Bidez Keeps It Classic

As a singer/songwriter residing in a musician-saturated town, Reuben Bidez believes in the power of first impressions. Furthermore, he views style as a natural, non-verbal component to his artistry — an immediate way to communicate who he is and to tell folks a little something about his art. Much like a medieval flag or banner, both forms of expression are self-attached to make a statement about who he is and what he is about. With almost three years of friendship behind us, I feel confident in saying his style is a true reflection of that sentiment, the life he lives, and the things he values which gives his first impression lasting substance.

Classic Singer/Songwriter with a Nod to an Iconic Era

Steering clear of current trends, Reuben’s look is anchored with choice standard pieces like denim jeans, chinos, jean jackets, leather shoes, and the like. He leaves his fleeting moods and curios expressions to be explored through shirts and accessories, like bandanas and hats, giving his classic look a bit of a unique spin. Reuben’s “spins” are usually subtle stylistic nods to the '70s. I feel the same can be said about his music.

Tip: If you feel that your own classic look is getting a bit stale, give Reuben’s approach a shot and mix it up with a thrifted tee, bandana, hat, or jewelry.

Quality > Quantity

He is a strong believer of quality over quantity and putting heavy mileage on the items he owns. In order for an item to make the wardrobe cut, it must be up to Reuben’s quality standards or hold sentimental value. Knowing his work ethic, the same standard is held for the songs he releases. If it came down to releasing a good full album or a great EP release, the choice is obvious. His standards carry over into the rest of his life, from items in his house to the company he keeps.

What kind of standards do you have when it come to wardrobe selections? Do you compartmentalize standards or do you find standards you apply to one area of your life, carrying over into all aspects?

Community and Roots

Tying in to his lifestyle and preference of quality over quantity, Reuben supports the local businesses he loves when purchasing standard items. For him, it’s Imogen + Willie for denim and Nisolo for shoes and leather goods. True, you could probably catch a deal on jeans and shoes at a department store sale, but putting money back into the Nashville community and exchanging with a business that focuses on excellence of material (and fit for the tall thin man!) is more rewarding in the long run. In this town, for the most part, the locals are the ones hiring musicians and attending shows. Exchanging and supporting each others' dreams and careers is one factor that makes the Nashville community so tight-knit.

Outside of Nashville, Reuben still has his favorite vintage shops — like Lucky Dry Goods in Seattle and Ragorama in his hometown of Atlanta — where he found his favorite shirt in another shop from a thrift find he’s had for years. Although there’s seemingly nothing special about the denim button-up, it’s a “go-to” item because of the fit and a connection to home, which he draws comfort from. 

Another tie to his roots: Reuben’s signature neckerchiefs. After they became a staple item in his wardrobe, his grandmother's vintage collection of scarves and bandanas that she rocked over the years was gifted to him. Other neckerchiefs have been gifts from his wife Hayley or souvenirs from travels. Not just a stylistic signature, these accessories are a way Reuben feels close to his roots.

A Lasting Impression

Reuben’s style is confident, minimalist, and far from boring. I love that he seeks out the items that represent him, his lifestyle, and his values instead of taking on the ever-changing trends. As someone who loves to experiment with new trends that fit, I really respect someone who is approaching style from their own angle. From music to lifestyle, Reuben is a classy gent with a unique twist. He doesn’t just make a solid first impression, but leaves us with a substantial lasting impression.


Set design by Hayley Bidez

Griffin House Goes Back to (Fashion) Basics

When you find yourself in a wardrobe bind and just can’t get into a groove with anything you put on, take it back to the basics and remember the golden third-piece rule. Haven’t heard of the third-piece rule yet? No problem. Start with your favorite bottom and top combo (sorry, shoes don’t count), then add one extra article of clothing to your outfit — like a jacket, vest, blazer, or sweater. If you are not confident with your layering capabilities — or if you live in a city that’s 80+ degrees year-round — try throwing on your favorite accessory like a hat, shades, bandana, or necklace to achieve a more unified polished look.

I’m not sure why that third item locks it in, but utilizing the rule will help anchor a look. It truly takes your outfit from dud to stud. Some of my golden third pieces include bandanas, leather jacket, denim jacket, flannel button downs, and of course hats. Can't go wrong with a hat. Note for the ladies: If none of those items are in your closet, start exploring this style guide by layering with a statement necklace or stacking your jewelry in an interesting way.

Griffin House has been killing the third-piece rule lately. Sometimes just dipping his toes in with his third piece being shades and sometimes getting adventurous with adding fourth items, we dig his style.

We met up the other day to visit some of his favorite places around town, including Martin’s BBQ. While hopping around town discussing local shops, music, books, and family, I captured Griffin rocking his third-piece style in a few Billy Reid items from the Spring Collection. (And you can capture Griffin rocking his musical style on his new album, So On and So Forth.)

Shades as a minimalist third piece

On days nothing more than the basics is necessary, Griffin keeps it simple, utilizing his staple shades as his third piece.

Jacket as a third piece

Recycling an outfit worn previously in the week can feel and look fresh by adding a light jacket.

Change up your standard patterns! Light jackets are a great layer to throw on while exploring new shirt patterns. How good is this Wills Jacket from Billy Reid? Because of its light weight and beautiful rubber color, it is the perfect Jacket to have on hand this Spring.

Hat as a fourth piece

Once you have the golden third-piece rule nailed down, venturing into a fourth article won’t be so intimidating.

What I enjoy about Griffin’s style is his ability to explore new ways of wearing an article of clothing. I also like that his style changes with his mood and he doesn’t corner himself into a specific style. It’s easy to get comfortable with one style and stick with what you know. Don’t be afraid to mix it up and let your style reflect all sides of your personality.

The next time you find yourself standing in front of a mirror unable to figure out why your outfit feels incomplete, remember the third-piece rule.

Gig Bag: Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats

Welcome to Gig Bag, a BGS feature that peeks into the touring essentials of some of our favorite artists. This time around, Nathaniel Rateliff gives us a look at what he has to have handy when he's out on the road. Check out his tour dates with the Night Sweats here.

An acoustic guitar: I always bring an acoustic guitar with me for any down time in the green room or late-night sing-alongs on the bus. My Gibson Dove has been the guitar of choice the last few tours. 

A notebook: Writing new music on the road isn't easy, but when inspiration hits, I like to have a notebook and pen handy. The big, soft cover Moleskines are my usual, but there's a small company out of Detroit called Shinola that makes a good one, as well. 

Hats: I'm usually wearing a hat — whether it's my stage hat, my day off hat, or my hat I can put headphones over. I've been lucky to have a friend over at Stetson that always helps me find the right one, and provided this sweet hat box for traveling. 

A Polaroid camera: It's convenient that everybody has a camera in their pocket, but you can't beat the look and feel of an old Polaroid.

This Is Spinal Tap: Band favorite, right here. We watch it at least once on every tour. Never leave home without it.

 

For more on Nathaniel Rateliff, read our interview with him.


Lede photo by Brantley Gutierrez