Tag: local music

Traveler: Your Guide to Taos

Posted on by Editor

Taos, New Mexico is 135 miles north of Albuquerque, and 6,967 feet above sea level. Bordered to the west by the Rio Grande and the Sangre de Cristo Mountain range to the east, Taos is blanketed by the widest sky, with the biggest sun, brightest moon and stars ever.

Getting to Taos is a commitment — especially the last 36 miles … on a two-lane road … winding up the canyon beside the river. Once you reach the crest of the canyon, the plateau, the Rio Grande Gorge, and the mountains form a vista that causes a catch in your breath. Is it any wonder that the place has been an inspiration to artists and writers since the valley was first inhabited?

Getting There

Taquitos at Mike's Mini-Mart

Most people fly into the Albuquerque Sunport and drive north on I25 connecting to US 285 through Española — a route known as the “Low Road.” This is the most direct route and will take you about two hours and 20 minutes without stops. But you will find places you want to stop, depending on the season. Velarde is the village right at the base of the canyon. A fruit growing community, Velarde is loaded with roadside fruit stands in the Fall. But, for a winter snack, stop at Mike’s Mini-Mart on the right hand side as you enter the village and grab a couple of taquitos — homemade fast food at its finest. Taquitos in hand, turn into the narrow canyon and head up to Taos. It’s impossible to get lost. The river is on your left and rock cliffs on your right. Just point north and go.

Lodging

A room at Casa Betita

More and more people are discovering that Taos is much more than a day trip from Santa Fe and are choosing to stay for more extended exploration. Perhaps the most special place to stay is Casa Gallina B & B just a bit southwest of Taos Plaza. As a certified introvert, I don’t generally opt for the traditional B&B experience given the demand for interaction and challenged privacy, but Casa Gallina is anything but traditional. Every room is different, private, and lovingly appointed. The attention to detail is unparalleled; Richard and Matt, the hosts, are warm and generous; the vistas are gorgeous; and the eggs — the gallina in Casa Gallina — are fresh. 

If you want to pretend you live in Taos, try Casa Betita, a fully restored 100-year-old adobe home under the shade of one of the oldest Willow trees in the valley. Casa Betita offers the finest elements of the 21st century with the charm, colors, textures, and décor of true New Mexico, including hand-plastered walls, Kiva fireplaces, vintage rugs, and the artwork of local artists. To stay right in the palm of art and literary history, stay at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House — it's more of a retreat-style hotel and a pleasant walk from Taos Plaza. 

Mornings in Taos

Fruit stands in town

Join the regulars for coffee and a delicious cardamom coffee cake at World Cup — a postage stamp-sized coffee bar on the corner of Taos Plaza. Perch on one of the few barstools or share a step and a bench outside to catch up on all the “news” or just ponder the sky. A little further north on the main drag, you will find two other local favorites for caffeine — the Coffee Spot and Elevation.

My favorite breakfast spot is Michael’s Kitchen Coffee Shop and Bakery, a family-owned gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere reminds me of many places from my childhood: Western, rustic, friendly, and just plain good. Everything is plentiful, old school, and made from scratch. My go-to dish is huevos rancheros with green chile and a sopaipilla with honey. Another favored spot is the Taos Diner. It's a diner through and through — nothing fancy, just simple good food.

Food/Comida

Cheese and bacon at Parcht

New Mexico is known for its cuisine, blending Native American and Hispanic influences and traditions. Taos holds high the traditions with an emphasis on red and green chile and locally sourced ingredients. Most of the restaurant offerings through town reflect the agricultural and farming nature of the community. El Taoseńo has some of the best northern New Mexico food in town.

Head to El Meze for a special night out. Everything is beautifully prepared, regionally sourced, and inspired. The chicharrones are a shared plate you won’t want to share. The grilled romaine salad could quickly become a craving, and the prepared-to-order mini-cardamom doughnuts served with a caramel chocolate sauce are divine. Try also Aceq and Sabroso — both a little farther north in the village of Arroyo Seco. The former has a lovely wine list, and the latter makes the best fresh-squeezed lime margaritas.

Music and Drink

The Taos Inn

Speaking of drink … Taos does drinking establishments up right, and most of them present live music. Every day of the week, there are several live music offerings to choose from — be it local bands, up-and-coming “touring in the van” bands, or known headliners. There are brewpubs aplenty — Taos Ale House, Eske’s Brew Pub, and the Taos Mesa Brewery, which is also one of the main music venues in town with an affiliated radio station that has a fantastic Juke Joint Series for seven bucks.

Madisen Ward and Mama Bear recently played a lively show at the KTAOS Solar Center. The Adobe Bar at the Taos Inn, otherwise known as the living room of Taos, has live music every night of the week, every day of the year. In recent months, Lucinda Williams, Mary Gauthier, Tinariwan, and Los Lobos have all come through town. Suffice it to say, music in Taos is plentiful and eclectic. By far, my favorite discovery is the recently opened Parcht Bottleshop + Bites, an intimate wine bar hidden away on the east side of Taos Plaza. The proprietors, Nicolette and Hunter, have created a convivial atmosphere punctuated by a wonderful selection of wines by the glass and the bottle, a cheese named Purple Haze, and spicy caramelized bacon — the perfect adult clubhouse.

Flavorfull!

Ski Taos

There is so much more to Taos than food and drink. The natural beauty of the place means that outdoor activities are paramount and determined by the season — world class skiing at Taos Ski Valley in the Winter; Class 3 rapids through the Taos Box in the Spring; hiking, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and camping in the Summer. Taos is rather untamed and, as such, has attracted the wild, the eccentric, and the unconventional … musicians, artists, writers, freethinkers, and soapbox preachers.

Favorite Discoveries

The Paseo — a street festival of installation, performance and projection art. 

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance

Taos Pueblo — a World Heritage site, continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years.

Rio Grande Del Norte Monument and the Gorge Bridge

Two Graces Gallery

HorseFeathers

The Harwood Museum — most especially for the Agnes Martin Gallery where you can take a yoga class on Wednesday mornings.

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

Fiestas de Taos

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

The Bavarian — the sun-soaked deck is, by far, my favorite resting spot while skiing with stunning scenery at the base of Kachina Peak, best enjoyed with a mug of hot mulled wine.

All photos by Melissa Howden

Traveler: Your Guide to Glasgow

Posted on by Editor

It may not be Scotland's capital city, but Glasgow — just a half-hour from well-heeled Edinburgh — offers arguably the most vibrant and exciting city life north of the border. From the busy footfall of Sauciehall Street to the beautiful greenery of the West End, from Merchant City to Southside, this manifestly walkable city contains richly diverse neighbourhoods and some of the most fun-loving people you'll meet in the UK.

Getting There

You can fly direct to Glasgow from the east coast, but you’d be robbing yourself of one of the prettiest railway journeys that Britain has to offer. The train from London speeds you through the length of England, its lovely hills and green pastures rolling past your window for a little over four hours. The scenery is particularly breathtaking once you pass Preston and enter the Lake District, whose beauty inspired a generation of romantic poets from William Wordsworth to Robert Southey.

Lodging

[A deluxe room at Blythswood Square. Photo courtesy of BSG.]

If you’ve cash to splash, Blythswood Square is a smart, luxurious hotel complete with spa — a riot of modern décor that sits beautifully within a classic historic town house. It’s even got its own private cinema. Cheaper, but no less hip, is Hotel Indigo, a boutique hotel that’s centrally located … and has an extremely well-stocked minibar.

Coffee

[It's always cuppa time in the UK. Photo courtesy of Willow Tea Rooms.]

There’s a thriving coffee scene in Glasgow, not least because the city has always had a large Italian population. Fratelli Sarti is one of the best-loved authentic Italian restaurants in the city, and you can pop in for a coffee or its famous homemade gelato. Tinderbox (189 Byres Rd, G12 8TS) is the go-to for those who like their stuff strong and black (and has been operating far longer than its hipster competitors). But this is still the UK, so if you prefer a real British drink, head to the Willow Tea Rooms for a cuppa. It’s elegantly designed by art nouveau’s chief architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Food

[A plate of goodness at Café Zique. Photo courtesy of Café Zique.]

Glasgow is the city that first gave the world the Deep Fried Mars Bar, and its cuisine has been somewhat maligned, as a result. But there are plenty of wonderful places to eat, not least in the West End, Glasgow’s leafy and good-living district. Top of the class is the Ubiquitous Chip on picture-postcard Ashton Lane and its sister restaurant Stravaigin, both of which champion Scottish cooking. Close by is Cafézique, a more casual but no less delicious proposition, which serves a wonderfully hearty breakfast. Humbler still, and operating a BYO policy for those on a budget, is the Wee Curry Shop, one of the best Indian restaurants in Scotland.

Drink

[A wee dram of whiskey. Photo credit: IntangibleArts via Foter.com / CC BY.]

You can’t visit Scotland without tasting a wee dram of its namesake liquor. The Pot Still holds a collection of some of the finest Scotch whiskies you can drink, and its bar is as warm and inviting as what’s in the bottle. If you want a more vibrant, modern take on Glasgow drinking, head to Nice’N’Sleazy, the city’s most infamous dive bar, where you can drink beer — and dance — til late into the night.

Shopping

[The Style Mile. Photo credit: marsupium photography via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Style Mile is aptly named. You can browse this shoppers’ heaven — a pedestrianized area which wends through the centre of town along Argyle, Buchanan, and Sauchiehall Streets — for hours. But, if you want something a bit less Main Street, head to the Merchant City district, where its independent boutiques, designer couture, retro retailers, and thrift stores offer a lively and quirky alternative.

Music Venues

http://www.monocafebar.com/[Music and meals at Mono. Photo courtesy of Mono Café Bar.]

Sure, Edinburgh can claim a world-renowned festival. But Glasgow has always been Scotland’s true music capital, where the sound goes on late into the night in gritty dive bars and loud, heaving nightclubs. The city is still mourning the recent closure of its best-loved venue — and artistic hub — the Arches. But the gigs go on, in up-and-coming venues like Mono — a space favouring more experimental sounds — and established indie houses like Stereo, where local bands find a truly passionate audience. City Halls and the Fruitmarket play host to a welter of alternative music, and Barrowland is a former ballroom-turned-Glasgow’s favourite nightclub. For stadium rock, head for the Hydro.

Local Flavor

[The Kelvingrove Museum. Photo credit: dun_deagh via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Glasgow is the British city for modern art. From the Centre for Contemporary Art to the Mackintosh designed Glasgow School of Art, from the Hunterian Gallery to Kelvingrove, the city is at the cutting edge of art and design, and the evidence is all around. For something truly unique, head to the Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre, where mechanical sculptures perform extraordinary choreography. Soccer is also a big deal in this city — and a historical source of feud between its Protestant and Catholic communities, represented by the Rangers and Celtic teams, respectively.

Lede photo credit: brownrobert73 via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Traveler: Your Guide to Savannah

Posted on by Editor

Located in the middle of the Lower Coastal Plains and salt marshes of Southeast Georgia, Savannah — founded in 1733 — is one the oldest cities in the American South. With its rich colonial history, diverse Southern architecture, and growing reputation as a regional haven for arts and culture, Savannah has long been a popular tourist destination. Affordable, nonstop flights that clock in at under two hours from New York make for the perfect trip from the Northeast. 

Lodging

There are countless hotels in the touristy, downtown historic district. If you’re looking for more local flavor, try staying at any of the countless bed and breakfasts or Airbnbs in more residential neighborhoods for roughly the same price as most of the mid-level hotels. Look for a rental in the Starland District, the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood located south of Forsyth Park and the historic district.

Coffee

[Coffee at the Foxy Loxy Café. Photo courtesy of Foxy Loxy]

As a tea drinker, I deferred to my girlfriend on the matter of coffee during our four days in Savannah. She says the best coffee she had in town, bar none, was at the Foxy Loxy, the Tex-Mex-inspired café that takes up an entire two-story house in the Starland district. Every Tuesday night, Foxy Loxy hosts an evening of acoustic music from local songwriters and artists. The Coffee Fox, located downtown on Congress Street, is the shop’s flagship location. Also recommended: Shop the Fox, the sibling gift shop next door.

Food

[Southern cooking, family-style. Photo courtesy of Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room]

It may be touristy, but lining up at 10 in the morning for the 11 am opening at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is the best decision you can make in Savannah. For $20, you’ll get seated at a large table with fellow diners where you share over a dozen dishes — family-style — of the best Southern cooking you’ve ever tasted … sweet tea included, of course.

Goose Feathers Café is another solid, cheap option for breakfast. The Bird’s Nest — which features two poached eggs, salsa, and cheese over a bed of grits — was particularly great. The best lunch we had in town was easily Zunzi’s, a take-out sandwich spot that sells gigantic hot sandwiches with a combination of South African, Swiss, Italian, and Dutch cooking. The Chicken Conquistador sandwich was massive, delicious, and well worth the $12.

Drink

[The sample pack. Photo courtesy of Moon River Brewing Company]

Savannah is a serious beer-drinking town, with several craft beer bars conveniently located downtown, from Savannah Taphouse to Moon River Brewing Company. With drinking on the street legal in the city’s historic district, the to-go cups that any bar or restaurant offers is surely an added bonus. Another newer restaurant, the Distillery Ale House, is also worth a visit with an excellent beer selection and first-rate chicken wings.

One of the stranger, most enjoyable drinking experiences in Savannah can be found at the Savannah Bee Company, which offers mead tastings for just $5. The company offers various delicious tastings from many of the relatively few meaderies that produce the fermented honey-based drink throughout the United States.

Located right in the heart of downtown and recommended by a local, HangFire was the most charming bar we went to in Savannah. It’s a hangout for musicians and young folks from all over town, and the bar regularly hosts a diverse array of local bands and singer/songwriters. If you’re looking for a fun night, I highly recommend ordering a couple of Scorpion Teas, one of the bar’s specialties. With an expiring lease fast approaching, the bar is currently scouting new locations to open in somewhere else in town, so make sure you look up HangFire, wherever it soon may be, next time you’re in town.

Arts and Culture

[Photo courtesy of the Jinx 912]

With the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) located right downtown, Savannah has long been a hotbed of arts, music, and culture. “Savannah has always been a creative enclave,” writes local music writer Bill Dawers in a recent issue of Oxford American. “Today, it’s common to see metalheads at country shows or punks supporting hip-hop.” From venues like the Wormhole to HangFire, there are more clubs and stages than ever for local musicians. For bigger shows, the Johnny Mercer Theatre and the Lucas Theatre host touring acts like Jackson Browne and Jason Isbell.

Much of the city’s local music scene revolves around the Jinx, the downtown rock room that has been operating since 2003. The divey, intimate club is the most important gig in town for local bands, as well as a regular stop for countless national touring bands. The club has a storied history with the town’s local metal scene, but its bookings are wide-ranging and cover a number of styles and genres.

For books and records, your best bets are the Book Lady, which offers a great mix of new and used books (and sports a solid music section, to boot), and Graveface Records, located just a block from the Wormhole. Graveface is run by Ryan Graveface of Black Moth Super Rainbow and the Savannah-based Dreamend. Graveface also runs the small, independent record label, Graveface Records, which puts out a great array of indie releases.

Local Flavor

[Photo courtesy of the Flannery O'Connor Childhood Home]

The mix of history, architecture, and arts give Savannah a unique feel unlike any other small Southern city I’ve ever been to. Some of the most popular tourist attractions are the many ghost tours throughout town, which is often called one of America’s most-haunted cities. Like many historical destinations throughout the South, Savannah effectively whitewashes — both literally and figuratively — a large portion of its long history, and our biggest regret on the trip was not being able to take the city’s walking tour with Johnnie Brown, a longtime Savannah native who offers a historical walking tour focused on the African-American history that the city does not readily present to the general tourist.

Otherwise, the city is highly walkable, so the best way to absorb the city is to spend a couple of days wandering among its countless squares, parks, and cemeteries. If you’re a literary nerd, taking the 20-minute tour through the Flannery O’Connor Childhood Home, a restored 1920s house that the Georgia writer lived in until she was 13, is a must. Another essential stop is the SCAD Museum of Art. Expanded and renovated in 2011, the museum is a gorgeous, expansive, world-class art museum featuring everything from photography to furniture design, and hosts an impressive rotating exhibit from the Walter O. Evans Collection of African-American art.

Lede photo credit: jeffgunn via Foter.com / CC BY