WATCH: Breakwater Studios’ Life’s Work Video Series, ‘Rust’

The following is the third in a four-part video series hosted in partnership with and created by Breakwater Studios. Each piece is part of a larger series, Life’s Work: Six Conversations with Makers, that chronicles the lives and artistic pursuits of makers living on Canada’s Eastern seaboard. Look for a new video each Tuesday.

“Rust,” featuring Gordon Kennedy of Baddeck, Nova Scotia

When did you first begin working on your craft?

I basically started as a kid, in elementary school. I was always kind of putzing around — drawing and stuff — and I guess you could say I took it seriously when I went to art school. Early 1970s, that’s when I got serious about it, but I was always interested in it and always thought I might do it. Interestingly enough, it was “The Walking Man” by Giacometti. I was looking at, I don’t know, in the basement or something, looking through some magazines and there was a picture of this “Walking Man” and it was like a punch in the stomach, sort of. It really worked for me and that got my interest. I went and started fooling around with wire — got some wire and twisted it all up. Of course, I had no resources or anything. I bought what was that sort of metal colored glue. I don’t know how old I was, maybe 12 or 13, something like that. I actually found it, that wire, the other day. It’s actually not that bad — I don’t know if I got better or worse!

Do you have another profession? If so, what do you do? If not, what did you do prior to beginning your artistic work?

I was a kid prior to beginning my artistic work. [Laughs] But I worked as a deckhand on a lobster boat for 13 years to make money when I moved to Cape Breton because, you know, art is notoriously non-profitable unless you’re one of the lucky chosen few. So, I did many other things, but that’s the one I did the longest. It was 12 weeks of work, basically, in the spring. So it wasn’t too bad and it wasn’t really hard work but I was in good shape and you saw the sun rise out of the ocean everyday and that was cool. I didn’t mind it. I worked construction going through art school, and I did some layout for a newspaper once, and that was kind of okay — it was an inside thing. Part-time work is perfect, if you’re trying to do artwork so you have a bit of an income. Basically, I did whatever people did in the area I was at. I was big and in pretty good shape, so I just took on physical labor.

How long did it take you to master? What new skills did you have to learn?

Well, I’m still mastering it; I’m still working on it. The skills basically were … just getting better at it and figuring out maybe more intelligent ways of approaching some things and that sort of thing. Figuring out what tools work was a big deal. See, for me, I kind of knew what I wanted to do so I invented ways of doing it — for me, I mean. In the industry, I’m sure there are way easier ways of doing it, but they also have huge budgets. I did build a power hammer to do my metal forging, and that was probably the most useful moneymaking tool on the craft side of town and it helped in the art, too. I had never really seen one. That would be the tool that definitely saved [me]. It’s like a carpenter getting a circular saw. It took a couple of weeks to build. I’m still making adjustments and tweaking it. I have ideas that outreach my technical ability, at the moment, and that can be annoying in one way. I don’t have the process to bend and shape giant sheets so I cut them into little strips and weld them all together. It’s very time consuming, but it allows me to make complex shapes. It’s a lot more work, but I can do it, which is the point.

What do you feel you contribute to your community with the pieces you create?

I think, hopefully, it makes the place more visually interesting. People’s yards, public parks … hopefully makes it a more interesting place to be. There are people interested. I did do a big piece and the community really got into that one, and I finished it outside in the summer. People came to watch it leave, get put in the truck and go away. They’re always curious. Frankly, I think, in the beginning, they thought I was kinda nuts. But they do get that I’m surviving and, here, that’s a big deal. I have stuff outside and people always tell me they like this one or that one.

What have you learned about yourself as you’ve grown as an artist?

What have you learned about yourself as a human being would be an equally good question. You get to be older, be careful what you get yourself into. If you try to figure it out, if you wanna do it … you probably can do it. It’s also one of the only things that keeps my interest, because it’s always a bit different. I’ve had tough spots and everything but the problem solving generally keeps it interesting. What you learn is, you’re constantly learning. I also learned not to worry so much about it. Worrying doesn’t accomplish much. That’s a life thing for me. I’ve spent a lot of time worrying about shit that’s not necessary to worry about. In the end, it’s not really that important. You know what’s important. Make the time for it. You have to realize it’s worth doing, so … you do it. It’s wonderful if you can spend more time doing the things that you’re passionate about than less, I guess is what I’m trying to say, but I do understand it doesn’t always work.

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Traveler: Your Guide to Marfa, Texas

A six-hour drive to one stop light in the middle of West Texas has never seemed more appealing until the quaint, artsy town of Marfa, Texas, began to blossom. Drink a Lonestar with a cowboy, see the Marfa lights, and get your artistry on with teeming inspiration in the middle of this changing desert town with a population of 2,121. With little to no nightlife, vegetation that looks like you stepped into a Dr. Seuss story, and a clear desert sky, Marfa is a quite the getaway.

Getting There

Photo credit: ballroommarfa.org

If you’re feeling a road trip through West Texas, take the six-hour drive from Austin, or fly into El Paso’s International Airport and head southeast for about three hours. Midland Airport is also a three-hour drive. Since Marfa is so rural, it’s quite the haul from larger cities in Texas.

Accommodations

Photo courtesy of El Cosmico

If you’re looking to meet other artists (like Queen Bey) and really #liveauthentic, El Cosmico is an 18-acre trailer, tent, and teepee hotel with a hammock grove made for artist meetups. The Hotel Paisano is a restored hotel with original architecture, plus an outdoor restaurant and pool. Thunderbird Hotel is also beloved, with its 1950s minimalist chic vibe. Plus, the top 20 highest-rated Airbnbs in town range from airstream trailers to boats on dry land to “Modern + Minimal” homes.

Eats & Drinks

A hippie meets a cowboy at a local dive for a Lonestar kinda atmosphere, Marfa’s food and drink scene runs the gamut from trippy grilled cheese spots to food trucks to breakfast tacos. Many places are cash only, so be sure to check before you go. Hours are spotty at all of Marfa’s restaurants, but you can take comfort in the fact that Stripes is open 24-7.

Thunderbird Café has gourmet sandwiches, fried chicken, and fluffy biscuits making for a solid lunch spot. Marfa Burrito’s breakfast burritos are a hallmark of the scene, and you can get your fancy coffee fix at Do Your Thing, alongside homemade sourdough toast, unique porridge specials, and Four Barrell Coffee. Grilled Cheese Parlour is filled with 1950s TVs serving late-night grilled cheeses, and Food Shark is an airstream serving tasty Marfalafel and other mediterranean food. Boys2Men is a renowned food truck specializing in breakfast tacos, and Chochineal has an upscale brunch, specializing in Tex-inspired fare like chilaquiles.

Sight Seeing

Photo credit: Lauren Swedenborg

Most shops, restaurants, and galleries are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan to take it easy or go exploring outside of town those days. There are two grocery stores and two ATMs in town, so consider bringing snacks and cash with you. Thirty minutes outside of town near Valentine, Texas, lies Marfa’s most recognizable marker: Prada Marfa. A permanent art exhibition co-produced by Ballroom Marfa, this Insta-worthy freestanding store is disorienting as you peek through the glass windows to see the fall 2005 Prada collection … in the middle of West Texas.

Speaking of Ballroom Marfa, their gallery is the town’s go-to for art — especially their immersive video installations. Pretty much every part of town has been converted into a makeshift art gallery, so there’s always eye (and brain!) candy like this installation in the front room of Big Bend Coffee Roaster, “The Listening.”

Photo credit: Maria Perry

If you’re into the unknown — and possibly extraterrestrial — try to catch the Marfa Lights along Route 67, which are unexplained beams of bright lights that flicker across the horizon 10 to 20 times per year. Or just stick with regular ol’ stargazing, sans light pollution, at one of McDonald Observatory’s Star Parties to see the stars in the rural country, 40 minutes from Marfa.

Shopping

Photo credit: Maria Perry

Marfa’s shops have the bare hipster essentials: gemstones, cowboy boots, vintage clothes, and books. At Moonlight Gemstones, you can buy Himalayan pink sea salt by the pound, plus handmade jewelry. The Marfa Book Company doubles as an art gallery and performance space and has been in business for 20 years, located in the Hotel Saint George. Cobra Rock Boot Company makes one handmade pair of ankle boots in many variations. Seeing a theme? Marfa fosters artists. And then there’s Ranch Dressing — a vintage pop-up shop with a bounty of carefully curated used apparel.

Restaurants, shops and bars change often with artists coming and going, so be sure to check marfalist.org, the minimalist site Marfa locals use to stay up-to-date with the most recent changes.


Lede image: One of Donald Judd’s concrete pieces at the Chinati Foundation in Marfa, Texas. Photo credit: K Bennett.

Traveler: Your Guide to Washington D.C.

If you’re not swearing off our nation’s capital until 2020, we’re here to help you avoid the tourist traps in Washington, D.C. Full of free museums, bustling nightlife, ethnic eats, and a diverse population, Washington D.C. offers reaffirmation of the fabric of our nation in a time of division.

Getting There

The airport situation might be the hardest part about getting to Washington, D.C. since the District itself is a no-fly zone for all commercial airlines. With all of the airports on the outskirts, you’ll want to choose carefully the closest one to your accommodations. Ronald Reagan/DCA has Metro access and is the closest to the city center, Dulles is a 40-minute ride to town, and Baltimore/Washington International is close to an hour away from D.C. proper, but is accessible via city bus. Getting around with no car is doable with a Metro pass, ride sharing, or your own two feet.

Accommodations

From bed and breakfasts in Georgetown to Airbnbs in DuPont Circle to swanky hotels overlooking the White House lawn, there is no shortage of spots to crash in D.C. The Kalorama Guest House is a cozy euro-style B&B right off the metro and two blocks from the National Zoo. Airbnb has plenty of options, averaging $190 per night. And, if you’re feeling fancy (and planning way in advance), check out a room in the Hay-Adams, overlooking the White House.

Eats & Drinks

Photo: View from the W bar, Photo credit: Saahil Agrawal

D.C.’s multicultural make-up makes for comprehensive dinner plate fare. They’ve got a killer high-brow food scene, but the hidden ethnic gems are what make D.C. so tasty. If you want to eat Greek with the local Greeks, head to Mykonos for Imam Baildi and the most authentic tzatziki in town. Neapolitan pizza made by Italians in Arlington at Pupatella was voted best pizza in the state of Virginia and is right down the road. Other must-trys include Japanese donburi from Donburi in Adams Morgan and Latin eats from El Pollo Sabrosa.

The D.C. crowd is a work hard, play hard kinda crew, so there are also plenty of places to wet your whistle. The rent is too high, so dive bars are aplenty, as are the complete opposite — exclusive clubs. Bar Pilar is on 14th Street and is Hemingway-themed. ChurchKey is a beer lover’s delight, collaborating with breweries like Sun King Brewery and 3 Stars Brewing Company on exclusive brews. Head to the top of the W for drinks with a view of the Treasury and the White House, plus you can play Where’s Waldo? to find the security personnel on top of the White House.

Sight Seeing

D.C. has the obvious political sights that are popular for a reason. There’s nothing like walking the monuments that circle the Tidal Basin on the West End of the National Mall at night, taking a selfie in front of the White House, or perusing the National Archives, but there are some off-the-beaten path spots that are worth the deviation from throngs of tourists.

Music

Photo: Black Cat, photo by: Josephine Wood

D.C.’s got plenty of live music venues. Catch indie bands at Black Cat, bluegrass and Americana at Gypsy Sally’s, and a wide variety of other touring bands at the 9:30 Club, where they make their famous 9:30 cupcakes for artists and for sale to the public.

As for record stores, two Sundays of every year, collectors wrap around E Street to get first dibs on DC Record Fair’s vinyl fare at Penn Social. Grab some Emmylou from Red Onion Records or get nitro cold brew and peruse new and used records at Songbyrd Music House.

Books

Photo: Politics & Prose

Go book shopping and get a hearty breakfast at Politics & Prose. Be sure to check out their events lineup because they host notable people like Trevor Noah, Bernie Sanders, and Bob Boilen often, plus they have killer deals on used books.

Museums

Photo: National Gallery, Photo credit: Josephine Wood

The National Portrait Gallery is one of the more obscure Smithsonians, but is well worth the visit, particularly their “In the Groove” series of Herman Leonard’s jazz photography.

In the age of media skepticism, the Newseum offers a timely look back at the history of media in the U.S., including a 50th anniversary exhibit on the history of the Civil Rights movement, photography of immigrants and a history of rock ‘n’ roll and politics’ intersection. It’s not a Smithsonian Museum, so it costs $25, but is worth the cash.

The National Gallery boasts the most comprehensive art collection, which allows a wide range of visitors — art lovers or not — the chance to connect with different styles. Plan to spend a large chunk of time exploring, or target one genre or time period to meander through.

The National Museum of African-American History and Culture is the newest Smithsonian and tickets are tougher to come by, though still free. It’s worth the wait. The museum is a walk through the history of African-Americans in the United States, including Civil Rights history, slavery, music, art, and much more. You’ll learn more than you did in any history class, but plan at least half-a-day to spend wandering the museum, because there is a lot to take in at this five-story, emotionally taxing museum. Get ticket details here.

This one’s not exactly a hidden gem, but taking a stroll at the Georgetown Waterfront, along the Potomac River, is a great place to enjoy a sunny day. There are biking and walking paths, as well as plenty of stores and restaurants to pop in along the way. Plus, Georgetown is pretty much the most charming spot in D.C.


Lede photo credit: freestock.ca ♡ dare to share beauty via Foter.com / CC BY

A Conversation with Jamaal B. Sheats, Director of Fisk University’s Art Galleries

If you've never visited Nashville's Fisk University, it's a beautiful campus rich with history. Located north of downtown Nashville, Fisk — a private, historically Black university — was founded in 1866, just a few months after the end of the Civil War. The university was home to a number of important moments during the Civil Rights Movement of the mid-20th century and counts Marion Barry, Diane Nash, W. E. B. Du Bois, and Ida B. Wells among its many notable alumni.

Fisk is also home to an incredible collection of visual art. While Nashville boasts art institutions like the Frist Center for the Visual Arts and Cheekwood, one of the city's most impressive collections of artwork — which includes works by Georgia O'Keeffe, Aaron Douglas, Pablo Picasso, Paul Cezanne, and many other renowned artists — is housed in a number of locations on Fisk's campus. 

Rhiannon Giddens filmed her video on the Fisk campus

Jamaal B. Sheats is the Director and Curator of Fisk's art galleries, as well as an assistant professor of art at the university. A 2002 graduate of Fisk himself, Sheats has held the position of Director and Curator for 10 months and enjoys being back on campus. "It’s really an incredible experience," he says. "Every day holds a new and exciting opportunity and a new and exciting challenge. I love it. It’s interesting to come back and look at it from a different perspective. I studied the collection and, when I look at it now, I can look at a Florine Stettheimer portrait and know that it influenced my work today. It’s very rewarding, to say the least."

While Sheats spent his early years at Fisk studying technique — he's an artist himself, a painter and sculptor involved in Nashville's broader arts community — he now enjoys the opportunity to use Fisk's immense collection to tell important stories. "For example, we have the Alfred Stieglitz collection, that’s back. And the exhibition title is 'Orders of Influence,'" he says. "I’m looking at Alfred Stieglitz in his pioneering role as a gallery owner, a photographer, a writer, and so many other things, with his introduction of European modernism to Americans, and those European modernists, in turn, influencing our American modernists. Or Stieglitz really taking photography from documentary purposes to raising it to an art form. For Stieglitz, one of the first people to exhibit African objects in the gallery and really acknowledging that European modernists were looking at those and thinking about non-representational objects and being influenced by that work. It’s definitely a different lens than looking at it as a student." 

Perhaps the most famous collection in Fisk's possession is that particular set of artwork, which was gifted to the university by Georgia O'Keeffe in 1949 in honor of Stieglitz, her husband. The collection is housed in the Carl Van Vechten Gallery, a former gymnasium that O'Keeffe hand selected when she made the donation. "It was a church, and W. E. B. Du Bois organized a group of students to purchase the building," Sheats explains. "In 1889, it became a gymnasium for calisthenics. Du Bois believed you needed to be intellectually and physically fit. Then Georgia O’ Keeffe selected the building in 1949 to become to first permanent gallery on campus."

Van Vechten, the gallery's namesake, was a famed photographer himself, with 400 of his photos as part of Fisk's permanent collection. He was a personal friend of Charles S. Johnson, a sociologist involved heavily in the Harlem Renaissance and Fisk University's first Black president, and was integral in connecting O'Keeffe to the school. "[Johnson] believed that, through the arts you could change the heart and mind of a nation," Sheats says. "He was an architect of the Harlem Renaissance. When he’s talking about art, he’s talking about visual arts, performing arts, poetry, music, literature — all of that. With that, he was good friends with Carl Van Vechten, and Carl Van Vechten is the one that made the ask to Georgia O’Keeffe. He was also instrumental in bringing Aaron Douglas to the campus to later go on and found the art department."

There are a number of works by Douglas, another central figure in the Harlem Renaissance, on Fisk's campus in the Aaron Douglas Gallery, established within the John Hope and Aurelia Franklin Library in 1994. The university also has vast collections of African and African-American art, including traditional African artifacts and works by artists like Hale Woodruff and James Porter. Many Fisk alumni and faculty have works in Fisk's permanent collection, as well. The university has been collecting art and artifacts since the 1870s.

The Stieglitz collection, which features Picasso, O'Keeffe, and others, remains Fisk's biggest draw, however, with the gallery notching over 2,500 visitors from 10 countries since re-opening (after a contentious two-year stint at Arkansas's Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art following a legal battle with O'Keeffe's estate) in April of this year. Sheats does not see that absence, which will recur every two years, as a detriment to his art students or to campus visitors, as the university has such a large collection outside of O'Keeffe's donation. "The Stieglitz Collection is only 101 works out of 4,000," he says. "When the collection leaves, it gives us the opportunity to show some of the other work in our collection. We have a strong foundation in African-American art. We have a strong foundation in work that was produced during the Harlem Renaissance. There was an article that came out maybe two months ago in the New York Times that talked about African-American artists marching to the museums, and they talked about Normal Rockwell, Alma Thomas, and so many others. And these are artists that are part of our collection, because there was a point in time in American history when they could only show at an institution like Fisk."

That history is, to Sheats, just as important as the technique on display in the pieces, and honoring it is at the heart of his work as both a curator and a professor. "It’s interesting because I talked about the collection from the perspective of our art majors," he explains. "But I had a faculty member ask me to pull work from two areas: the Civil Rights Movement and to look at more contemporary artists around Black Lives Matter to see what they were doing — to parallel those two periods of time. When there’s a place where there are no words, when you can’t accurately describe how you feel, I believe that art fills that void. It’s a way to tell a story when you can’t actually say the story. I think it’s very important at this time."  

During a Summer of peaceful protests held in response to police violence against unarmed black men, Sheats sees art as an important tool to document the important work being done, both as a way to honor those fighting for equality and to educate generations to come. "When you talk about protest, this is something that is not just for African-Americans or for minorities," he says. "It is a perennial thing that’s happened over and over throughout history, and this is visual documentation of that."


Lede photo credit: joseph a via Source / CC BY-NC-SA

Traveler: Your Guide to Joshua Tree

Of all the stories that populate the mythology of American roots music, few weave a tighter thread than the connection of Gram Parsons to Joshua Tree, California. For Parsons, the high desert was an escape from the craziness of Los Angeles and a chance to hang out with his friends. In 1969, he brought Keith Richards here with little more than Pendleton blankets and acoustic Gibsons. It was the year of “Honky Tonk Women,” Parsons’ undeniable country influence on the Rolling Stones during their creative apex. Four years later — on September 19, 1973 — Parsons would be clinically dead of a drug overdose at the Joshua Tree Inn and the bond between musician and place cemented into legend. He was 26 years old.

For decades, far-out eccentrics, war veteran homesteaders, and creative artists have all found inspiration in the widescreen landscapes and cultural freedom that the California desert provides. In its wildness, time becomes abstract — a slower way of life that’s fiercely protected by the locals. The food is decent, the shopping becomes a treasure hunt, and the live music can be transformative. But the spiritual heart of this place — its calm emotional anchor — lies in the vistas of Joshua Tree National Park.

In our age of digital hyper-connectivity, the park is one of the few remaining locations in the United States where, in just a couple of miles, all of your devices go silent as the grid dissolves. This rare, involuntary disconnection might help explain the park’s explosive popularity (a record two million visited in 2015), a salve to the debilitating nature deficit and frenetic pace many urbanites experience daily.

It’s a place where the messages you receive are not about work, gossip, or a change in plans, but something bigger and soul evolving. While under the canopy of a million stars or taking in the beautiful surrealism of ancient Joshua trees, you’re forced to remember how small you really are, how fragile the balance of ecology truly is, and how lucky you are to be here — now, in the moment — as a witness to its magic.

Getting There

There are four airports to choose from, and deciding which to use is a balance of cost versus convenience. Traditionally, the most affordable option is to fly into Las Vegas’s McCarren International (LAS) and drive three-and-a-half hours south on US-95. Fill the tank, bring some water, and take it slow. Cell phone service is spotty for most of the barren drive and there are few places to stop. Los Angeles International (LAX) is another option, with the drive east from the airport to Joshua Tree at approximately two-and-a-half to three hours (depending on traffic). LA/Ontario International (ONT) is located about an hour-and-a-half west and is an easy drive on I-10 to Route 62. Finally, the most convenient airport (and usually the most expensive to fly into) is Palm Springs International (PSP). From there, it's a 50-minute drive on Route 62 “up the hill,” as the locals say.

The long ribbon of California State Route 62 (aka Twentynine Palms Highway) connects five adjacent communities where the action is: Morongo Valley, Yucca Valley, Joshua Tree, Twentynine Palms, and the unincorporated community of Wonder Valley.

Lodging

As of this writing, there are over 300 places to rent on Airbnb in Joshua Tree alone, including small rustic cabins; large, amenity-rich homes; and everything in-between. For the best nighttime stargazing, rent a converted homestead in Wonder Valley, a rural outpost east of Twentynine Palms. If you want to commune with the ghost of Gram, book the room he OD’d in (room #8) at the Joshua Tree Inn. Or you can party with the truckers and the kickers and the cowboy angels at Pioneertown Hotel.

Food, Booze, and Live Music

There is currently no venue in the area specifically devoted to live music, but the restaurants and bars here more than fill the void, attracting both underground up-and-comers and established acts. Pappy and Harriet’s in Pioneertown is a must-visit, with regular live music, great food, and a stocked bar. It’s busy, so make reservations for dinner and check the calendar before you head up there. (They are typically closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) Their annual Desert Stars Festival always boasts a mindboggling roster of talent.

To fuel up for hikes in the park, Crossroads Café in downtown Joshua Tree is a good spot for breakfast or a sandwich. (Their seitan Hell Burger rocks!) Joshua Tree Coffee Company provides wicked strong coffee, served by friendly staff. Pie for the People offers up New York-style pizza by the pie or the slice. Joshua Tree Saloon hosts occasional music, decent pub grub, and craft beer on tap. The Palms Restaurant out in Wonder Valley has a dark, musty bar and hosts trippy indoor/outdoor concerts. If you’re looking for more adventurous menus, La Copine and 29 Palms Inn offer “finer dining” — for lack of a better phrase — beyond typical burgers and Mexican food.

Attractions

Tourist traffic is divided into two distinct seasons here, “high” and “low.” High season is busiest during the most temperate months of March-May and September-November, and low season constitutes the hot summer months and the cold-ish winters. But with the right preparation and smart precautions, any time of the year is good to visit. (Note that some businesses scale back or shut down operations in July and August.)

Plan at least one full day of hiking and sightseeing in Joshua Tree National Park. Camping is allowed in the park — there are nine campgrounds in all — and reservations must be made in advance on a first-come, first-served basis. Seven-day vehicle permits can be purchased at time of visit. Try to catch the Key’s Ranch tour. Running February through mid-May, it's an incredible story of ingenuity, perseverance, and cold-blooded murder.

 

To visit the site of Gram Parsons’ bizarre “cremation” in Joshua Tree National Park, visit Cap Rock Nature Trail. High Desert Test Sites / A-Z West is a unique arts organization that holds tours on its 50-acre site focusing on sustainable living and innovative design. Get a sound bath at George Van Tassel’s space-age invention the Integratron and don’t miss a chance to experience Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum, a major socio-political exhibit created entirely out of repurposed materials.

Shopping

For a taste of California desert weirdness, visit Sky Village Swap Meet, a sprawling outdoor flea market open every weekend. Ranch and Camp Mercantile boasts a quirky mix of vintage goods and local art. The Hoof & the Horn boutique specializes in rootsy Americana clothing, vintage t-shirts, and accessories. (They have a stoner rock selection on vinyl, too.) Dig through Tamma’s Magic Mercantile for lots of cool antiques. You can buy your very own baby Joshua tree at Cactus Mart and meet Butch and Sundance, two of the friendliest kitties in Morongo Valley. For bibliophiles, the Cactus Wren bookstore is a great place to search for old desert homesteader histories.


Photo credit: Melissa Grisi

Cayce Zavaglia: Would You Please Be Quiet Please

"The longer you look at an object, the more abstract it becomes, and, ironically, the more real.

– Lucian Freud"

Cayce Zavaglia makes intensely detailed embroideries of wool and thread that have the look of photorealistic paintings … although, from a distance, Zavaglia’s portraits seem to be nearer the surface than they actually are. Upon a closer viewing, one can see labor-intense striations of stitching and color set to a simple background that makes the face of the sitter the center of attention. Letting one’s eyes wander throughout the portraits is a delight. There is detail found in layer after layer of the artist’s work, from common things like a bow tie or an intense red coat, to the shoulders of one of the sitter’s brown suits.

The faces in these pieces have the intensity and precision that only a master can make, but Zavaglia doesn’t only create lucid and precise portraits. In her Verso series, some of the embroideries are turned backwards, as it were, to exhibit the hidden side of the sitter, as strands of threads wildly jut out and offer another, secret perspective of the subject. While the formal precision holds in these Verso series, as well, the viewer is delighted by the surprise of the wildness within — the loose ends adding visual grace notes to the form.

Zavaglia recently had a show in New York City at Lyons-Weir Gallery, which attracted the likes of Chuck Close and found Zavaglia, who had with some trepidation secretly sent Close slides of her work in 2004, with a marvelous and haunting show. One wants to touch every inch of these pieces in order to know them better, but in the end, there is magic here in trusting the eye’s vigilant gaze while living in Zavaglia’s detailed and original work.

You began embroidering canvas about 12 years ago. How did this idea of stitching portraits occur to you?

I spent my childhood years in Australia … til I was 13. My embroidery pieces stem from a work I made as a kid in which I embroidered an image of a sheep station out of crewel wool. Something about that work resonated with me, and it never left me. I studied painting in undergrad and grad school. When I was pregnant and starting a family, I could no longer be around turpentine, varnish, and chemicals, and I kept thinking about that first exposure to embroidery. I wondered if it were possible to embroider a portrait and eventually tried sewing one. I made a small self-portrait out of crewel wool to reference this embroidery from my childhood, but the image was too small and the wool was too thick. So, I had to play around with the scale and experiment with technique. I’ve been making the embroidered works for about 14 years now.

Do you generally work from photographs in order to create portraits?

Yes. I always work from photographs. I usually have a photo session and take about 150 photos. Usually the sitter is nervous … and I kind of am, too. I never choose an image from the first 80 pictures — it takes about that long to know what I am looking for and for the sitter to get comfortable.

There is such precision in your work. Could you talk a bit about the labor that’s involved in such pieces?

Over the years, the technique has become more and more obsessive. In the beginning, I was trying to figure out how to create the illusion of hair, flesh, and cloth out of wool … the stitches were much looser and I used fewer colors. Because I was not trained in embroidery, I did not quite know what I was doing, but knew what I wanted the end product to look like. I practiced “renegade embroidery,” making up my own stiches and relying on my background in drawing and painting to use thread as a drawing tool and attempt a portrait. The making of each piece was the “on-the-job training” that informed the technique of making the next portrait.

Did you always work with figures and faces, or was there a time in your career for more abstract work?

I have always been drawn to the figure. I did figurative painting as an undergraduate student and in graduate school. I was always a little apprehensive to make a direct portrait of a friend or family member. In undergrad, I would do collages, which represented someone I knew. In graduate school, I decided to actually paint portraits of the people in my life. In these early paintings, I tried to incorporate more of the body; people in them had huge heads with little bodies and big hands — they had a bit of humor to them. In the embroideries, I decided to strip away all the gimmicks and just do a portrait of someone I knew against a minimal background. Throughout the years, one thing has remained constant … and that is the direct gaze of the subject toward the viewer. I am still not tired of this pose.

I have never made abstract work in the past, but have recently started to make a series of abstract portraits based on the reverse side of my embroideries. When I turned my embroidery over a few years ago and noticed this other side, it was an exciting discovery that allowed me to introduce paint back into my work. I now do the embroidered portraits and have a separate series of “Verso” works, which are small gouache and large-format acrylic paintings based on this reverse image. This back side is messy, tangled, knotted, and has lots of loose ends. It is my hope that, by focusing on this reverse side and using it to inspire my paintings, that it would initiate a conversation about the divergence between our presented and private selves.

What draws you toward the faces you create?

I only do portraits of family and friends. I like the personal connection and it definitely inspires the work. I look at it like a visual diary of those in my life and the aging process … as some sitters I have repeated several times.

Who are some artists that you admire or at least draw inspiration from?

Coming from a background in painting, I am still primarily inspired by painters. In undergrad, I worshipped Lucien Freud and loved the way he handled the paint. In graduate school, I looked a lot at Elizabeth Peyton. I was more drawn to the way she handled the paint and the supports she worked on. Today, I am relooking at Chuck Close and his current work. Also, Alex Katz is a big influence. I love photographer Loretta Lux’s work, and have revisted Peyton and Freud to see how their work has changed over the years.

When did you begin as an artist? Was it always in your blood, so to speak?

I was crafting and making before I was looking and making art. My mum taught me how to cross-stitch and my grandmother taught me to crochet and make crafts. What I love about this current body of work I am making is that it references the world of craft and tradition, but does it in a sneaky way. The work comes across as figurative painting and you only see that it is embroidered if you look closer. I have always resisted the label “fiber artist” because I think of myself as an artist who happens to use thread and wool … at the moment. However, I do love that so many other artists are incorporating traditional craft techniques into their work and doing it in a new and sophisticated sort of way. The art world is now definitely taking notice.

***

There are a few occasions when the written word must submit or is overcome, at the very least, by the image. Though countless articles are subsumed each and every day by “the image-dominated media,” it seems not just conventional but proper to let Zavaglia’s pieces speak for themselves. It was a warmer day in early December when several people gazed upon her work at Lyons-Weir in Chelsea, in rapt attention, their eyes scanning each and every inch of the pieces, the onlookers’ mouths like O’s that opened and then closed. They were overcome by beauty and submitted to it. Cayce Zavaglia is one of those artists that sees to it that one shuts up — and shuts out — the rest of the world. Beholding her work is a privilege, like seeing the past and future reside and dovetail within faces — and objects — that gaze back at the viewer, demanding a reciprocal silence.

Traveler: Your Guide to Savannah

Located in the middle of the Lower Coastal Plains and salt marshes of Southeast Georgia, Savannah — founded in 1733 — is one the oldest cities in the American South. With its rich colonial history, diverse Southern architecture, and growing reputation as a regional haven for arts and culture, Savannah has long been a popular tourist destination. Affordable, nonstop flights that clock in at under two hours from New York make for the perfect trip from the Northeast. 

Lodging

There are countless hotels in the touristy, downtown historic district. If you’re looking for more local flavor, try staying at any of the countless bed and breakfasts or Airbnbs in more residential neighborhoods for roughly the same price as most of the mid-level hotels. Look for a rental in the Starland District, the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood located south of Forsyth Park and the historic district.

Coffee

[Coffee at the Foxy Loxy Café. Photo courtesy of Foxy Loxy]

As a tea drinker, I deferred to my girlfriend on the matter of coffee during our four days in Savannah. She says the best coffee she had in town, bar none, was at the Foxy Loxy, the Tex-Mex-inspired café that takes up an entire two-story house in the Starland district. Every Tuesday night, Foxy Loxy hosts an evening of acoustic music from local songwriters and artists. The Coffee Fox, located downtown on Congress Street, is the shop’s flagship location. Also recommended: Shop the Fox, the sibling gift shop next door.

Food

[Southern cooking, family-style. Photo courtesy of Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room]

It may be touristy, but lining up at 10 in the morning for the 11 am opening at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is the best decision you can make in Savannah. For $20, you’ll get seated at a large table with fellow diners where you share over a dozen dishes — family-style — of the best Southern cooking you’ve ever tasted … sweet tea included, of course.

Goose Feathers Café is another solid, cheap option for breakfast. The Bird’s Nest — which features two poached eggs, salsa, and cheese over a bed of grits — was particularly great. The best lunch we had in town was easily Zunzi’s, a take-out sandwich spot that sells gigantic hot sandwiches with a combination of South African, Swiss, Italian, and Dutch cooking. The Chicken Conquistador sandwich was massive, delicious, and well worth the $12.

Drink

[The sample pack. Photo courtesy of Moon River Brewing Company]

Savannah is a serious beer-drinking town, with several craft beer bars conveniently located downtown, from Savannah Taphouse to Moon River Brewing Company. With drinking on the street legal in the city’s historic district, the to-go cups that any bar or restaurant offers is surely an added bonus. Another newer restaurant, the Distillery Ale House, is also worth a visit with an excellent beer selection and first-rate chicken wings.

One of the stranger, most enjoyable drinking experiences in Savannah can be found at the Savannah Bee Company, which offers mead tastings for just $5. The company offers various delicious tastings from many of the relatively few meaderies that produce the fermented honey-based drink throughout the United States.

Located right in the heart of downtown and recommended by a local, HangFire was the most charming bar we went to in Savannah. It’s a hangout for musicians and young folks from all over town, and the bar regularly hosts a diverse array of local bands and singer/songwriters. If you’re looking for a fun night, I highly recommend ordering a couple of Scorpion Teas, one of the bar’s specialties. With an expiring lease fast approaching, the bar is currently scouting new locations to open in somewhere else in town, so make sure you look up HangFire, wherever it soon may be, next time you’re in town.

Arts and Culture

[Photo courtesy of the Jinx 912]

With the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) located right downtown, Savannah has long been a hotbed of arts, music, and culture. “Savannah has always been a creative enclave,” writes local music writer Bill Dawers in a recent issue of Oxford American. “Today, it’s common to see metalheads at country shows or punks supporting hip-hop.” From venues like the Wormhole to HangFire, there are more clubs and stages than ever for local musicians. For bigger shows, the Johnny Mercer Theatre and the Lucas Theatre host touring acts like Jackson Browne and Jason Isbell.

Much of the city’s local music scene revolves around the Jinx, the downtown rock room that has been operating since 2003. The divey, intimate club is the most important gig in town for local bands, as well as a regular stop for countless national touring bands. The club has a storied history with the town’s local metal scene, but its bookings are wide-ranging and cover a number of styles and genres.

For books and records, your best bets are the Book Lady, which offers a great mix of new and used books (and sports a solid music section, to boot), and Graveface Records, located just a block from the Wormhole. Graveface is run by Ryan Graveface of Black Moth Super Rainbow and the Savannah-based Dreamend. Graveface also runs the small, independent record label, Graveface Records, which puts out a great array of indie releases.

Local Flavor

[Photo courtesy of the Flannery O'Connor Childhood Home]

The mix of history, architecture, and arts give Savannah a unique feel unlike any other small Southern city I’ve ever been to. Some of the most popular tourist attractions are the many ghost tours throughout town, which is often called one of America’s most-haunted cities. Like many historical destinations throughout the South, Savannah effectively whitewashes — both literally and figuratively — a large portion of its long history, and our biggest regret on the trip was not being able to take the city’s walking tour with Johnnie Brown, a longtime Savannah native who offers a historical walking tour focused on the African-American history that the city does not readily present to the general tourist.

Otherwise, the city is highly walkable, so the best way to absorb the city is to spend a couple of days wandering among its countless squares, parks, and cemeteries. If you’re a literary nerd, taking the 20-minute tour through the Flannery O’Connor Childhood Home, a restored 1920s house that the Georgia writer lived in until she was 13, is a must. Another essential stop is the SCAD Museum of Art. Expanded and renovated in 2011, the museum is a gorgeous, expansive, world-class art museum featuring everything from photography to furniture design, and hosts an impressive rotating exhibit from the Walter O. Evans Collection of African-American art.


Lede photo credit: jeffgunn via Foter.com / CC BY