Tag: drink

Traveler: Your Guide to Oakland

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Likely the most famous statement about Oakland, California, comes from Gertrude Stein when she said, “There is no there, there.” Looking into the quote, I came to believe that she was not disparaging Oakland, but rather commenting — in her inimitable way — about the fact that her Oakland childhood home, was no longer there, having been razed in a fit of development. Regardless of Gertrude’s meaning, I can say without reservation that there is, in fact, a “there, there.” So much “there,” that a four-day visit barely skimmed the surface of Oakland’s plentiful goodness. As one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country — a diversity made manifest in a rich tapestry of culture especially evident in the food, music, and arts scenes — Oakland feels like an energetic city of makers, independent thinkers, creators, and change agents.

Getting There
Flying in to the Oakland International Airport is the best bet. Easy in and out and 15 minutes from downtown Oakland. BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) now has an airport link which can get you right into the heart of downtown, though there are plenty of taxis, too. Depending on your starting point, you can also take Amtrak right into the Oakland Station in Jack London Square.

Where to Stay


With an eye toward walking and mass transiting everywhere, we opted to stay at the Waterfront Hotel in Jack London Square, though there are also a few chain hotels closer to the center of downtown Oakland and a wide variety of Airbnb options throughout the city.

Exploration
On arrival, we set out on foot to explore the area, ending up much farther afield than originally intended. Strolling along the waterfront and through the burgeoning Jack London Square scene, we made our first stop at Heinhold’s First and Last Chance Saloon. Opened in 1883, the “First and Last” refers to the first or last place sailors could stop after arriving from sea or before departing on long trips. The interior of the bar is lit only with gas lamps and the bar and floors slant — a result of the 1906 earthquake shifting the pilings beneath the structure. In recent years, the bar has added an outside deck which is where we chose to enjoy the first part of our day.

After some cold refreshment, we headed up Webster Street passing through the old and still active Oakland Produce Market on to Oakland’s Chinatown, a commercial and community hub begun in the 1850s by the large Chinese community who came to California during the Gold Rush. It's bustling with sidewalk vegetable markets, herbal shops, fish markets, and more. The whole time we were in Chinatown, we never once heard a word of English.

The Tribune Tower

Downtown Oakland has some extraordinary architecture. By no means an expert, I’m definitely an enthusiast of the Art Deco and Pre-War architectural styles in abundance in this city. The Oakland Tribune Tower, built in 1923, is a stunning example and was at one time the tallest building in Oakland.

A few blocks from the Tribune Tower, we saw a line of people out the tiniest of storefronts. Turns out this is the Lunch Box specializing in huge, gorgeous old-school sandwiches made to order. We stood in line and ordered a roast turkey (roasted that day) sandwich on a freshly made roll. This is the way sandwiches should be made.

Lake Merritt, which is actually a tidal lagoon, was designated as the first official wildlife refuge in the United States. Right in the heart of Oakland — 3.4 miles of jogging, biking, and walking paths surrounded by grassy areas for picnics and just hanging out. We walked the lake, then hung out and watched the parade of Oakland go by. During our time at the lake, we heard no fewer than five different languages spoken.

Bushed and satisfied, we chose to eat close to our hotel as the restaurant options in Jack London Square are plentiful. En route back to our hotel we passed Oakland Crush, a neighborhood wine shop specializing in affordable, small production and sustainable wines. Not a wine bar, per se, though one can purchase a bottle and drink it there, they do have a full program of tastings. We wanted something refreshing, which is always a rosé no matter the season.

For dinner, we chose Lungomare which is the restaurant at the hotel. We opted for dining in the outdoor lounge lingering by the fire pit over a delicious pizza with hen of the woods and trumpet mushrooms, caramelized onions, fontina cheese, thyme, and truffle oil along with a simple salad of wild arugula, grilled peaches, fennel goat cheese, and a peach vinaigrette. The rest of the evening, we spent chilling in our room with the balcony door open overlooking the Oakland Estuary and the lights of the Bay Bridge and San Francisco on the horizon.

Coffee and Wandering
Coffee reigns in the Bay Area and within walking distance of the hotel are several coffee options including Bicycle Coffee, Blue Bottle Coffee, and Peerless Coffee. A friend told us about Caffé 817 in Old Oakland and that is where we landed. We were lucky to get a sidewalk table because the Friday farmers' market was in full swing. Fortified with beautiful bowls of café au lait and a breakfast of polenta with poached eggs and bleu cheese, we set off through the farmers' market to explore more of the city.

Appetite for Architecture
My architectural appetite whetted we headed for Mills College, a women’s college founded in 1852 which is home to several Julia Morgan-designed buildings. Best known for Hearst Castle, Morgan was the first woman architect graduate of the l'École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris. As a Morgan devotée, I needed to see the Morgan buildings, and the campus was the unexpected bonus. Driving through the gates is a breathe-in moment because it is a beautiful oasis in the heart of a big city, a veritable Eden with ponds, expansive greens, and big trees arching over the main drive. The first of example of Julia Morgan’s design is just inside the gates — Alderwood Hall, which is now the Julia Morgan School for Girls. The other one we found was the Campanil which sits on the edge of a gorgeous college green in front of the stunning main administrative building of the campus, in and of itself a Victorian architectural confection built in 1869. The Campanil survived the 1906 earthquake and chimes every 15 minutes. Beside myself with the beauty of this place, we also explored the Mills College Art Museum, the Rare Book Room, and the music building.

On our evening dance card was the Friday night happening at the Oakland Museum. Every Friday night from 5-10 pm, the museum is half-price. Some 20-plus food trucks show up, live music and DJs play, and the neighborhood comes to eat, drink, and be merry. We cruised through the museum and saw the tail end of an exhibition about marijuana and a timely exhibit called "Oakland: I Want You to Know" that takes on the question of home and addressing the issues of social, economic, and demographic change in West Oakland. We also took in a special LGBTQ history tour in the Gallery of California History. Afterward, we joined the neighborhood outside and grabbed some grub from about five different food trucks and sat on the grass listening to the music of the Venezuelan Music Project.

Waffles, Deco, & Shopping

The Paramount Theater

Up early, we headed to Brown Sugar Kitchen for brunch. Apparently, there is always a wait, but owner Tanya Holland’s creation of new-style soul food makes it worthwhile. Who wouldn’t want to wait for buttermilk fried chicken and a cornmeal waffle with brown sugar butter and apple cider syrup plus cheddar cheese grits with BBQ'd shrimp?

Oakland has three extraordinary theaters, all built as movie palaces within five years of each other: The Grand Lake Theater built in 1926, the Fox built in 1928, and the Paramount built in 1931. Two times a month, the Paramount — which operates now primarily as a live performance venue (Prince performed one of his last pop-up concerts there) — offers tours of the theater which is a Deco masterpiece for only $5. Needless to say, this was our destination.

After the tour, we wandered down Broadway, the main artery through town. Evidence of a changing Oakland is everywhere. One storefront — right next door to the Paramount — is a new LGBTQ, “hetero-friendly” bar, the Port Bar, while farther down the street is a closed-up storefront. The street kind of checkerboards like this, but from the looks of it, by our next visit, every storefront will be occupied with something to pay attention to.

Lunch was at Swan’s Market which was the Old Housewives Market begun in 1907 — the market is old; the housewives weren’t necessarily. Now, Swan’s Market encompasses 10 different food businesses in one shared space. We cruised the options and settled for a dungeness crab pizza with garlic cream from Hen House, and the entrée-sized salad from Cosecha with ipapaya, pepitas, watermelon, avocado, jicama, and a lime vinaigrette. The place is lively and opens out to the street with options ranging from oysters from the Cook and Her Farmer to house-made sausages from Rosamunde Sausage Grill and Japanese fare from B-Dama. The place is a wonder hall of deliciousness.

A little siesta later, we headed to the Grand Lake neighborhood for dinner and a flick. The owner of the Grand Lake Theater is famous for using one side of the marquee to make political statements, which says a lot about Oakland. In fact, there is a whole Flickr page devoted to his statements. On the night of our visit, the marquee was mellow and the movie didn’t matter so much as the Grand Wurlitzer organ which plays on Friday and Saturday nights before the main screenings. In the grand movie palace, the audience cheered when the organ player began and clapped along to his rousing finale.

Sunday Funday
Throughout the whole of our stay, a giant festival had been swirling around on our doorstep. The annual Eat Real Festival in Jack London Square attracts some 10,000 food lovers who gather to celebrate tastiness in the form of booths, food trucks, artisans, demonstrations, and more. Sunday was the last day and, as such, we thought it might be a little less crazy. Breakfast and lunch happened in shifts at the festival which is free. Most dishes are $8 and range from mushroom and crème fraiche empanadas to Thai zucchini salad and a double-chocolate chip cookie and cardamom ice cream sandwich. We tempered our eating by renting stand-up paddle boards from California Kayaks.

Music

We’ve already planned a return trip just to take in the Oakland music scene which is rich and plentiful. In our wanderings, we happened across a festival in a park and, at the moment we passed through, Linda Tillery and the Cultural Heritage Choir were performing. A Bay Area native, Tillery is a vocal powerhouse, a song whisperer of the highest order. The Cultural Heritage Choir focuses on preserving and performing African-American toots music that, from our experience, draws you in, lifts you up, and turns you around. I’m telling you what, it is a life-changing experience to hear this group. Proper music venues in Oakland include Freight & Salvage, Starline Social Club, Yoshi's, and the New Parish.

If you had told me before my visit to Oakland that I would be looking over my shoulder longingly at the city’s skyline as we sped down the freeway toward the airport, I would’ve thought the idea preposterous. But that is exactly what happened.

Homemade Booze: Sparkling Elderflower Wine

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I’ve always wanted to have a go at making my own booze, but I’m about as far from a scientist as you can get, so it always seemed a daunting task. That was, however, until I saw a video by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall from River Cottage making some sparkling elderflower wine. That was a few years ago, but I vowed as soon as I had a garden, I would plant elderberry bushes and give it a go. You can find them in the wild, too, if you don’t have them in your garden.

A couple of side notes before we begin:

1. If you haven’t heard of Hugh and River Cottage, go and Google. There are loads of videos and recipes online and, if you get the chance to watch Escape to River Cottage or Return to River Cottage, his first two TV shows, binge on them immediately!

2. As the brew continues to ferment after bottling, it can explode — but don’t let that put you off. I was very cautious this year and released some of the fizz out of some bottles as an experiment, but none of the ones I left blew up. So, next year, I’m just going to leave them all. Just to be on the safe side, though, it is worth placing the bottles in a bin with a towel over the top until they are ready to store.

All you need are elderflowers, water, sugar, and lemon juice — that’s it. The elderflowers have a natural yeast in them. You can add additional yeast if fermenting doesn’t start after three days, but I didn’t need to. You’ll also need some bottles. I used swing top one-litre bottles from Speciality Bottles since they have a warehouse here in Nashville. The bottles are a bit of an investment, but I know I’ll be using them for years, so well worth it.

For 10 x 1-litre swing top bottles:
8 cups sugar (1.6kg/3.6lb)
8 lemons (juice and zest)
10 quarts of water
8-10 hand-size heads of elderflowers or 4 cups without the stems.

Boil enough of the water to dissolve the sugar in a food-grade bucket. I got mine from Lowe's. Add in the rest of the water and wait for the liquid to cool down, then add the lemon zest and juice.

Remove most of the stems from the elderflowers — it doesn’t matter about the really smaller ones — and add to the bucket, then cover it with a cloth. Muslin or row covers, which was all I had, work fine, too, as it’s just to stop dust getting in.

After about three days, you should see the elderflowers start to ferment, but you’ll need to leave the mixture for six days altogether stirring once a day for the first five. Then it’s time to drain and bottle.

Pour the mixture into a fresh fermenting bucket through a sieve lined with the cloth/muslin to remove the leaves. Leave it for a few hours to settle, then pour into bottles either using a siphon or jug.

After about another week, the sparkling wine is ready to drink. It stores well, too — up to a year or two in a cool, dry place. I tried it with some friends over the July 4 weekend, and we all decided it’s best served with ice and a couple of "crushed with your fingers" leaves of lemon balm. You could also add vodka for an extra boozy kick.

There are other methods involving fancy equipment for the more serious brewer (demijohns and hydrometers, etc), but this was a really fun, quick, and cheap way to have a go at home brewing. From one elderberry bush that I planted last year, I was able to get about 35 bottles.

Singer/songwriter Susan Enan spends any time not on the road or in the studio working in her East Nashville garden. Follow all the Edible East Nashville action on Instagram.

Traveler: Your Guide to Joshua Tree

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Of all the stories that populate the mythology of American roots music, few weave a tighter thread than the connection of Gram Parsons to Joshua Tree, California. For Parsons, the high desert was an escape from the craziness of Los Angeles and a chance to hang out with his friends. In 1969, he brought Keith Richards here with little more than Pendleton blankets and acoustic Gibsons. It was the year of “Honky Tonk Women,” Parsons’ undeniable country influence on the Rolling Stones during their creative apex. Four years later — on September 19, 1973 — Parsons would be clinically dead of a drug overdose at the Joshua Tree Inn and the bond between musician and place cemented into legend. He was 26 years old.

For decades, far-out eccentrics, war veteran homesteaders, and creative artists have all found inspiration in the widescreen landscapes and cultural freedom that the California desert provides. In its wildness, time becomes abstract — a slower way of life that’s fiercely protected by the locals. The food is decent, the shopping becomes a treasure hunt, and the live music can be transformative. But the spiritual heart of this place — its calm emotional anchor — lies in the vistas of Joshua Tree National Park.

In our age of digital hyper-connectivity, the park is one of the few remaining locations in the United States where, in just a couple of miles, all of your devices go silent as the grid dissolves. This rare, involuntary disconnection might help explain the park’s explosive popularity (a record two million visited in 2015), a salve to the debilitating nature deficit and frenetic pace many urbanites experience daily.

It’s a place where the messages you receive are not about work, gossip, or a change in plans, but something bigger and soul evolving. While under the canopy of a million stars or taking in the beautiful surrealism of ancient Joshua trees, you’re forced to remember how small you really are, how fragile the balance of ecology truly is, and how lucky you are to be here — now, in the moment — as a witness to its magic.

Getting There

There are four airports to choose from, and deciding which to use is a balance of cost versus convenience. Traditionally, the most affordable option is to fly into Las Vegas’s McCarren International (LAS) and drive three-and-a-half hours south on US-95. Fill the tank, bring some water, and take it slow. Cell phone service is spotty for most of the barren drive and there are few places to stop. Los Angeles International (LAX) is another option, with the drive east from the airport to Joshua Tree at approximately two-and-a-half to three hours (depending on traffic). LA/Ontario International (ONT) is located about an hour-and-a-half west and is an easy drive on I-10 to Route 62. Finally, the most convenient airport (and usually the most expensive to fly into) is Palm Springs International (PSP). From there, it's a 50-minute drive on Route 62 “up the hill,” as the locals say.

The long ribbon of California State Route 62 (aka Twentynine Palms Highway) connects five adjacent communities where the action is: Morongo Valley, Yucca Valley, Joshua Tree, Twentynine Palms, and the unincorporated community of Wonder Valley.

Lodging

As of this writing, there are over 300 places to rent on Airbnb in Joshua Tree alone, including small rustic cabins; large, amenity-rich homes; and everything in-between. For the best nighttime stargazing, rent a converted homestead in Wonder Valley, a rural outpost east of Twentynine Palms. If you want to commune with the ghost of Gram, book the room he OD’d in (room #8) at the Joshua Tree Inn. Or you can party with the truckers and the kickers and the cowboy angels at Pioneertown Hotel.

Food, Booze, and Live Music

There is currently no venue in the area specifically devoted to live music, but the restaurants and bars here more than fill the void, attracting both underground up-and-comers and established acts. Pappy and Harriet’s in Pioneertown is a must-visit, with regular live music, great food, and a stocked bar. It’s busy, so make reservations for dinner and check the calendar before you head up there. (They are typically closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) Their annual Desert Stars Festival always boasts a mindboggling roster of talent.

To fuel up for hikes in the park, Crossroads Café in downtown Joshua Tree is a good spot for breakfast or a sandwich. (Their seitan Hell Burger rocks!) Joshua Tree Coffee Company provides wicked strong coffee, served by friendly staff. Pie for the People offers up New York-style pizza by the pie or the slice. Joshua Tree Saloon hosts occasional music, decent pub grub, and craft beer on tap. The Palms Restaurant out in Wonder Valley has a dark, musty bar and hosts trippy indoor/outdoor concerts. If you’re looking for more adventurous menus, La Copine and 29 Palms Inn offer “finer dining” — for lack of a better phrase — beyond typical burgers and Mexican food.

Attractions

Tourist traffic is divided into two distinct seasons here, “high” and “low.” High season is busiest during the most temperate months of March-May and September-November, and low season constitutes the hot summer months and the cold-ish winters. But with the right preparation and smart precautions, any time of the year is good to visit. (Note that some businesses scale back or shut down operations in July and August.)

Plan at least one full day of hiking and sightseeing in Joshua Tree National Park. Camping is allowed in the park — there are nine campgrounds in all — and reservations must be made in advance on a first-come, first-served basis. Seven-day vehicle permits can be purchased at time of visit. Try to catch the Key’s Ranch tour. Running February through mid-May, it's an incredible story of ingenuity, perseverance, and cold-blooded murder.

 

To visit the site of Gram Parsons’ bizarre “cremation” in Joshua Tree National Park, visit Cap Rock Nature Trail. High Desert Test Sites / A-Z West is a unique arts organization that holds tours on its 50-acre site focusing on sustainable living and innovative design. Get a sound bath at George Van Tassel’s space-age invention the Integratron and don’t miss a chance to experience Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum, a major socio-political exhibit created entirely out of repurposed materials.

Shopping

For a taste of California desert weirdness, visit Sky Village Swap Meet, a sprawling outdoor flea market open every weekend. Ranch and Camp Mercantile boasts a quirky mix of vintage goods and local art. The Hoof & the Horn boutique specializes in rootsy Americana clothing, vintage t-shirts, and accessories. (They have a stoner rock selection on vinyl, too.) Dig through Tamma’s Magic Mercantile for lots of cool antiques. You can buy your very own baby Joshua tree at Cactus Mart and meet Butch and Sundance, two of the friendliest kitties in Morongo Valley. For bibliophiles, the Cactus Wren bookstore is a great place to search for old desert homesteader histories.

Photo credit: Melissa Grisi

Traveler: Your Guide to New Orleans

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I’ve got a soft spot for New Orleans. No matter how many times I visit, I always find more to love. Tourism is the heart of New Orleans’ economy. In 2014, nearly 10 million people visited bringing in nearly $7 billion dollars. Everywhere you go, there is a celebration of New Orleans’ rich history — usually accompanied by lots of drinks and revelry. Needless to say, this town will show you a good time.

Getting There

For many travelers, getting to the destination is half the fun. Others prefer being there. If you are the latter, New Orleans is home to Louisiana’s largest airport. All major airlines fly to it. If you are the former, take the legendary Highway 61 — the Blues Highway. Be sure to stop in Clarksdale, Mississippi, which is home to juke joints and good eats. Also, take a photo at the crossroads where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul.

Accommodations


Hotel Saint Pierre. Photo credit: Numinosity (Gary J Wood) via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

The fantastic Hotel Saint Pierre is not one building, but several historic buildings occupying both sides of an entire block nestled between the Tremé and the French Quarter. The Garden District House is another good choice, if you’re looking for an affordable, uptown hostel in the Garden District, a gorgeous neighborhood that is home to New Orleans’ elite where mansions and former plantations intermingle with upscale restaurants and cemeteries. Best of all, it is near the streetcars for quick access to downtown and the French Quarter.

If money is not an issue, class it up at the Roosevelt Hotel, a centrally located picture of luxury which houses some of New Orleans’ best restaurants and classiest bars. Even if you do not stay here, swing by for a drink and check out the lobby. (More on the Roosevelt further down.)

The business district is another solid choice that is easy on the pocketbook and within walking distance to the French Quarter. There are some great stays, like the Whitney Hotel. It is a former bank, has good rates, and offers a unique New Orleans experience.

Food


Boiled crawfish. Photo credit: kittenfc via Foter.com / CC BY.

In New Orleans, it is not where you eat, but what you eat. You need to get some crawfish. The Original French Market Restaurant is a good place to start. I recommend the crawfish boat — it comes with potatoes, sausage, and corn boiled with two pounds of crawfish to create a flavor assault on your mouth.

You also have to get a po’ boy. NOLA Poboys is a good spot in the French Quarter, but there are hundreds of others to choose from.

You need to get a beignet and it might as well be at Café De Monde, which is a New Orleans landmark dating back to 1862. Today, Café Du Monde is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week — only closed on Christmas Day and during the occasional hurricane. All the world’s beignets are judged against theirs, as they set the benchmark.

You should also eat a muffuletta. Central Deli and Grocery originally concocted this beast of a sandwich that consists of olive salad, mortadella, salami, mozzarella, ham, and provolone on a Sicilian bun. It is intense. Central Deli and Grocery is still operating, so swing by their Decatur Street location. You may want to split the sandwich.

When you are ready for a healthy meal, head down by the Warehouse Arts District to eat at Seed. It is a vegan restaurant, but your tastebuds won’t know it. Seed offers a variety of fresh juices and smoothies to help with hangovers, and their menu is a healthy version of classic New Orleans dishes for a good change of pace after all the po’ boys and muffulettas.

Drink


Sazeracs. Photo credit: susanna bolle via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is no shortage of bars in New Orleans. You must walk down Bourbon Street — get a to-go beer and have a nice stroll. Stop at Marie Laveau’s Voodoo Shop for souvenirs, and try to avoid tripping over the passed out frat boys. There’s a lot of fun amidst the chaos.

The sazerac was the first cocktail invented by Antoine Amédée Peychaud in 1838. When he died in 1893, the Grunewald Hotel acquired the rights. In 2009, the former Grunewald reopened as the Roosevelt. Swing by their Sazerac Room and enjoy this New Orleans cocktail.

If you love dive bars, check out Molly’s in the French Quarter. They have a great jukebox and cheap drinks. You can get a beer and a shot for $5. For outdoor seating, go to Pat O’Brien’s next to the Preservation Hall. Perfect for warm Southern nights, the cobblestoned patio tables are nestled amongst fountains and flora, while pianos duel inside.

Coffee


Café’ au lait and beignets. Photo credit: kaige via Foter.com / CC BY-ND.

You are already going to Café Du Monde for beignets, so you might as well get some of their famous chicory coffee. Though chicory was a coffee substitute during the Civil War, today, the coffee and chicory are mixed to create a wonderful earthy flavor with a hint of chocolate.

Mister Gregory’s on Rampart Street is another great coffee shop. It is a French casual café in a great location — far enough off the beaten path that you can sit for awhile, but not so far that your feet will get sore walking to it.

Live Music


Preservation Hall. Photo credit: Phil Roeder via Foter.com / CC BY.

The French Quarter is still home to some great live music. Fritzel’s European Jazz Bar on Bourbon Street is fantastic. On Sunday afternoons, they have stride piano and, every night, they have top-notch, live jazz. If you need convincing, check out Fritzel’s New Orleans Jazz Band on Spotify. There is never a cover, although there is a drink minimum.

Preservation Hall’s history, alone, is worth the admission, and the music makes it one of the best deals in town. Get there about 30 minutes early, as the room is small and sells out.

Frenchman Street is also home to a bustling live music scene. The Maison has some great jazz and funk in a large room with room to dance. I highly recommend visiting d.b.a on Monday nights. When he’s not on tour, Luke Winslow-King plays every Monday at 7 p.m. His last album, Everlasting Arms, was one of my favorites from 2014. Right down the street is the Spotted Cat Music Club. It is home to some of New Orleans’ best traditional jazz, though most of the bands are younger and many have an Americana Twist.

Local Flavor


Jackson Square. Photo credit: christian.senger via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is more to New Orleans than just drinking and music. Take a riverboat cruise. You’re on the Mississippi River, after all. Enjoy it! There are three riverboat cruise companies. I recommend the Creole Queen. Their paddleboat is the nicest, their crew is the best, and the bar has live music. The cruise stops at Chalmette Battlefield, where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Most historians consider it the last great fight in the War of 1812.

I also recommend checking out a burlesque show by Fleur De Tease at One Eyed Jacks. One Eyed Jacks makes some of the best cocktails in town. The show is wonderful. Be warned, it sells out fast. Get your tickets early.

Designated by Congress as America’s official museum about World War II, the National World War II Museum is ranked by TripAdvisor as the #1 attraction in New Orleans. USA Today also named it the best place in the U.S. to learn military history, so it is a must-see for history buffs.

If you prefer serial killers and vampires to military history, take a haunted tour to learn about New Orleans’ seedy past while sipping hurricanes. It is informative, fun, and a great way to explore the town.

I also recommend visiting Congo Square at Armstrong Park. It is the birthplace of jazz. In the 18th century, enslaved African vendors gathered there. On Sundays, they sang, danced, and traded. The cultural expressions developed into the Mardis Gras Indian traditions, the Second Line, and, finally, New Orleans jazz. It is one of the most important squares in the United States. Armstrong Park is also home to an amazing sculpture garden.

On the way to Armstrong Park, check out the Washing Cycle. Located kitty-corner from the park, it formerly housed J & M Studios. Early rock pioneers like Little Richard, Fats Domino, and Dave Bartholomew first recorded here. J & M Studios was integral to the development of early rock ‘n’ roll, though it is now a laundromat.

Lede image: Bourbon Street. Photo credit: Eric K Gross via Foter.com / CC BY.

Traveler: Your Guide to Taos

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Taos, New Mexico is 135 miles north of Albuquerque, and 6,967 feet above sea level. Bordered to the west by the Rio Grande and the Sangre de Cristo Mountain range to the east, Taos is blanketed by the widest sky, with the biggest sun, brightest moon and stars ever.

Getting to Taos is a commitment — especially the last 36 miles … on a two-lane road … winding up the canyon beside the river. Once you reach the crest of the canyon, the plateau, the Rio Grande Gorge, and the mountains form a vista that causes a catch in your breath. Is it any wonder that the place has been an inspiration to artists and writers since the valley was first inhabited?

Getting There

Taquitos at Mike's Mini-Mart

Most people fly into the Albuquerque Sunport and drive north on I25 connecting to US 285 through Española — a route known as the “Low Road.” This is the most direct route and will take you about two hours and 20 minutes without stops. But you will find places you want to stop, depending on the season. Velarde is the village right at the base of the canyon. A fruit growing community, Velarde is loaded with roadside fruit stands in the Fall. But, for a winter snack, stop at Mike’s Mini-Mart on the right hand side as you enter the village and grab a couple of taquitos — homemade fast food at its finest. Taquitos in hand, turn into the narrow canyon and head up to Taos. It’s impossible to get lost. The river is on your left and rock cliffs on your right. Just point north and go.

Lodging

A room at Casa Betita

More and more people are discovering that Taos is much more than a day trip from Santa Fe and are choosing to stay for more extended exploration. Perhaps the most special place to stay is Casa Gallina B & B just a bit southwest of Taos Plaza. As a certified introvert, I don’t generally opt for the traditional B&B experience given the demand for interaction and challenged privacy, but Casa Gallina is anything but traditional. Every room is different, private, and lovingly appointed. The attention to detail is unparalleled; Richard and Matt, the hosts, are warm and generous; the vistas are gorgeous; and the eggs — the gallina in Casa Gallina — are fresh. 

If you want to pretend you live in Taos, try Casa Betita, a fully restored 100-year-old adobe home under the shade of one of the oldest Willow trees in the valley. Casa Betita offers the finest elements of the 21st century with the charm, colors, textures, and décor of true New Mexico, including hand-plastered walls, Kiva fireplaces, vintage rugs, and the artwork of local artists. To stay right in the palm of art and literary history, stay at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House — it's more of a retreat-style hotel and a pleasant walk from Taos Plaza. 

Mornings in Taos

Fruit stands in town

Join the regulars for coffee and a delicious cardamom coffee cake at World Cup — a postage stamp-sized coffee bar on the corner of Taos Plaza. Perch on one of the few barstools or share a step and a bench outside to catch up on all the “news” or just ponder the sky. A little further north on the main drag, you will find two other local favorites for caffeine — the Coffee Spot and Elevation.

My favorite breakfast spot is Michael’s Kitchen Coffee Shop and Bakery, a family-owned gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere reminds me of many places from my childhood: Western, rustic, friendly, and just plain good. Everything is plentiful, old school, and made from scratch. My go-to dish is huevos rancheros with green chile and a sopaipilla with honey. Another favored spot is the Taos Diner. It's a diner through and through — nothing fancy, just simple good food.

Food/Comida

Cheese and bacon at Parcht

New Mexico is known for its cuisine, blending Native American and Hispanic influences and traditions. Taos holds high the traditions with an emphasis on red and green chile and locally sourced ingredients. Most of the restaurant offerings through town reflect the agricultural and farming nature of the community. El Taoseńo has some of the best northern New Mexico food in town.

Head to El Meze for a special night out. Everything is beautifully prepared, regionally sourced, and inspired. The chicharrones are a shared plate you won’t want to share. The grilled romaine salad could quickly become a craving, and the prepared-to-order mini-cardamom doughnuts served with a caramel chocolate sauce are divine. Try also Aceq and Sabroso — both a little farther north in the village of Arroyo Seco. The former has a lovely wine list, and the latter makes the best fresh-squeezed lime margaritas.

Music and Drink

The Taos Inn

Speaking of drink … Taos does drinking establishments up right, and most of them present live music. Every day of the week, there are several live music offerings to choose from — be it local bands, up-and-coming “touring in the van” bands, or known headliners. There are brewpubs aplenty — Taos Ale House, Eske’s Brew Pub, and the Taos Mesa Brewery, which is also one of the main music venues in town with an affiliated radio station that has a fantastic Juke Joint Series for seven bucks.

Madisen Ward and Mama Bear recently played a lively show at the KTAOS Solar Center. The Adobe Bar at the Taos Inn, otherwise known as the living room of Taos, has live music every night of the week, every day of the year. In recent months, Lucinda Williams, Mary Gauthier, Tinariwan, and Los Lobos have all come through town. Suffice it to say, music in Taos is plentiful and eclectic. By far, my favorite discovery is the recently opened Parcht Bottleshop + Bites, an intimate wine bar hidden away on the east side of Taos Plaza. The proprietors, Nicolette and Hunter, have created a convivial atmosphere punctuated by a wonderful selection of wines by the glass and the bottle, a cheese named Purple Haze, and spicy caramelized bacon — the perfect adult clubhouse.

Flavorfull!

Ski Taos

There is so much more to Taos than food and drink. The natural beauty of the place means that outdoor activities are paramount and determined by the season — world class skiing at Taos Ski Valley in the Winter; Class 3 rapids through the Taos Box in the Spring; hiking, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and camping in the Summer. Taos is rather untamed and, as such, has attracted the wild, the eccentric, and the unconventional … musicians, artists, writers, freethinkers, and soapbox preachers.

Favorite Discoveries

The Paseo — a street festival of installation, performance and projection art. 

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance

Taos Pueblo — a World Heritage site, continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years.

Rio Grande Del Norte Monument and the Gorge Bridge

Two Graces Gallery

HorseFeathers

The Harwood Museum — most especially for the Agnes Martin Gallery where you can take a yoga class on Wednesday mornings.

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

Fiestas de Taos

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

The Bavarian — the sun-soaked deck is, by far, my favorite resting spot while skiing with stunning scenery at the base of Kachina Peak, best enjoyed with a mug of hot mulled wine.

All photos by Melissa Howden

Traveler: Your Guide to Glasgow

Posted on by Editor

It may not be Scotland's capital city, but Glasgow — just a half-hour from well-heeled Edinburgh — offers arguably the most vibrant and exciting city life north of the border. From the busy footfall of Sauciehall Street to the beautiful greenery of the West End, from Merchant City to Southside, this manifestly walkable city contains richly diverse neighbourhoods and some of the most fun-loving people you'll meet in the UK.

Getting There

You can fly direct to Glasgow from the east coast, but you’d be robbing yourself of one of the prettiest railway journeys that Britain has to offer. The train from London speeds you through the length of England, its lovely hills and green pastures rolling past your window for a little over four hours. The scenery is particularly breathtaking once you pass Preston and enter the Lake District, whose beauty inspired a generation of romantic poets from William Wordsworth to Robert Southey.

Lodging

[A deluxe room at Blythswood Square. Photo courtesy of BSG.]

If you’ve cash to splash, Blythswood Square is a smart, luxurious hotel complete with spa — a riot of modern décor that sits beautifully within a classic historic town house. It’s even got its own private cinema. Cheaper, but no less hip, is Hotel Indigo, a boutique hotel that’s centrally located … and has an extremely well-stocked minibar.

Coffee

[It's always cuppa time in the UK. Photo courtesy of Willow Tea Rooms.]

There’s a thriving coffee scene in Glasgow, not least because the city has always had a large Italian population. Fratelli Sarti is one of the best-loved authentic Italian restaurants in the city, and you can pop in for a coffee or its famous homemade gelato. Tinderbox (189 Byres Rd, G12 8TS) is the go-to for those who like their stuff strong and black (and has been operating far longer than its hipster competitors). But this is still the UK, so if you prefer a real British drink, head to the Willow Tea Rooms for a cuppa. It’s elegantly designed by art nouveau’s chief architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Food

[A plate of goodness at Café Zique. Photo courtesy of Café Zique.]

Glasgow is the city that first gave the world the Deep Fried Mars Bar, and its cuisine has been somewhat maligned, as a result. But there are plenty of wonderful places to eat, not least in the West End, Glasgow’s leafy and good-living district. Top of the class is the Ubiquitous Chip on picture-postcard Ashton Lane and its sister restaurant Stravaigin, both of which champion Scottish cooking. Close by is Cafézique, a more casual but no less delicious proposition, which serves a wonderfully hearty breakfast. Humbler still, and operating a BYO policy for those on a budget, is the Wee Curry Shop, one of the best Indian restaurants in Scotland.

Drink

[A wee dram of whiskey. Photo credit: IntangibleArts via Foter.com / CC BY.]

You can’t visit Scotland without tasting a wee dram of its namesake liquor. The Pot Still holds a collection of some of the finest Scotch whiskies you can drink, and its bar is as warm and inviting as what’s in the bottle. If you want a more vibrant, modern take on Glasgow drinking, head to Nice’N’Sleazy, the city’s most infamous dive bar, where you can drink beer — and dance — til late into the night.

Shopping

[The Style Mile. Photo credit: marsupium photography via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Style Mile is aptly named. You can browse this shoppers’ heaven — a pedestrianized area which wends through the centre of town along Argyle, Buchanan, and Sauchiehall Streets — for hours. But, if you want something a bit less Main Street, head to the Merchant City district, where its independent boutiques, designer couture, retro retailers, and thrift stores offer a lively and quirky alternative.

Music Venues

http://www.monocafebar.com/[Music and meals at Mono. Photo courtesy of Mono Café Bar.]

Sure, Edinburgh can claim a world-renowned festival. But Glasgow has always been Scotland’s true music capital, where the sound goes on late into the night in gritty dive bars and loud, heaving nightclubs. The city is still mourning the recent closure of its best-loved venue — and artistic hub — the Arches. But the gigs go on, in up-and-coming venues like Mono — a space favouring more experimental sounds — and established indie houses like Stereo, where local bands find a truly passionate audience. City Halls and the Fruitmarket play host to a welter of alternative music, and Barrowland is a former ballroom-turned-Glasgow’s favourite nightclub. For stadium rock, head for the Hydro.

Local Flavor

[The Kelvingrove Museum. Photo credit: dun_deagh via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Glasgow is the British city for modern art. From the Centre for Contemporary Art to the Mackintosh designed Glasgow School of Art, from the Hunterian Gallery to Kelvingrove, the city is at the cutting edge of art and design, and the evidence is all around. For something truly unique, head to the Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre, where mechanical sculptures perform extraordinary choreography. Soccer is also a big deal in this city — and a historical source of feud between its Protestant and Catholic communities, represented by the Rangers and Celtic teams, respectively.

Lede photo credit: brownrobert73 via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Spotlight: Beth Kirby, Local Milk

Posted on by Editor

If you're an avid Instagrammer, there's a good chance you're familiar with the name Beth Kirby, the mastermind behind the blog Local Milk. Billed as "a cast iron skillet and a camera," Local Milk is a digital ode to the beauty of food — one that's grown so popular that, in 2014, Saveur honored Kirby's project with both Readers' Choice and Editors' Choice Awards for Best Food Photography Blog. 

"Living is a glossy, unctuous thing, and cooking is a divine, ancient art," Kirby explains on her site. "It is the elevation of biological necessity. It is the beating heart. It is an empire built on grain and cacao. It is selenium and potassium. It is kale and cauliflower. It is sustenance. It is actually the art of living."

Below, we've rounded up a few of our favorite Local Milk recipes and Instagram shots. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

This is what your Thanksgiving table is going to look like, right?

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Vegetable and cheese pot pie, recipe here. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Granola with Lindt chocolate, recipe here. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

A table setting for an Anthropologie shoot. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

We want to go to there.

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Pan fried polenta with wild mushroom ragu, recipe here.