Must-See Food and Drink Events at Bourbon & Beyond 2019

Yes, bourbon and great music (and, in our case, bluegrass!) are all givens at Bourbon & Beyond this weekend in Louisville, Kentucky, but the culinary and libations programming might be somewhat unexpected to even the most seasoned festival goers. Do yourself a favor and make a point to consume — literally and figuratively — some of the incredible gourmet talent that makes Bourbon & Beyond truly an event that goes above… and beyond. Here are our top picks for must-see food and drink events for B&B 2019:

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20
1:30 p.m: Jose Salazar & Matt Abdoo

Jose Salazar is a chef and restaurateur based in Cincinnati, Ohio, so it’s a quick jaunt down to Louisville to be a part of Bourbon & Beyond. Originally from Queens, he got his start in restaurants around New York City, most notably working with Chef Thomas Keller for a four-year stint at Per Se and as the Executive Sous-Chef at Bouchon Bakery when it first opened its doors in 2006. 

This will be the third year in a row that Jose hosts a cooking demo at Bourbon & Beyond (we even interviewed him at last year’s festival for an episode of The Shift List), so the B&B veteran will be mixing things up by inviting the award-winning pitmaster Matt Abdoo to join him on stage. Matt’s BBQ joint Pig Beach is a staple in Gowanus, Brooklyn, so it’ll be fun to see how Chef Salazar incorporates Abdoo’s pit techniques into his demo. 

4:30 p.m: Justin Sutherland & Ben Jaffe 

Chef Justin Sutherland hails from St. Paul, Minnesota, where he’s the owner and executive chef of two restaurants, “Handsome Hog” and “Pearl & The Thief” – both contemporary Southern restaurants. He gained national attention by competing on last year’s season of Top Chef, which just so happened to take place in Louisville,  and recently competed and won on Iron Chef America

This will be his first appearance at Bourbon & Beyond, and he’ll be joined onstage throughout his demo by Ben Jaffe, the creative director of Preservation Hall in New Orleans, who also plays tuba and double bass with the Preservation Hall Jazz Band and will be performing a set of their own earlier in the day at noon over on the Oak Stage.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 21
2:30 p.m.: Tiffani Thiessen

Yes – this is the same Tiffani Thiessen that spent her teenage years playing Zach Morris’s on-again/off-again high school sweetheart Kelly Kapowski on Saved By The Bell (now sans her middle name ‘Amber’). That said, over the past few years, she has remade herself as a cookbook author and host of the Cooking Channel series ‘Dinner at Tiffani’s’. 

Making her debut appearance at Bourbon and Beyond, her cooking demo is sure to attract die hard SBTB fans and home cooking aficionados alike.

5:30 p.m: Kelsey Barnard Clark and Sara Bradley

Even though Chefs Kelsey Barnard Clark and Sara Bradley made their television debuts on Top Chef: Louisville, the two Southern chefs had worked and known each other around kitchens for over a decade. 

Barnard Clark, an Alabama native who went on to win the competition, and Louisville hometown hero Bradley, who placed second, are taking their longtime friendship to the stage for their Saturday evening cooking demo. After watching them compete against one another for an entire season of television, it will be fun to see them working together. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 22
12:05 p.m.: Manhattan Vs. The Old Fashioned

Sunday’s the final day of Bourbon & Beyond, so it might as well be spent in the pursuit of enjoying as much Bourbon as possible. Over at the Kentucky Gold stage, Beth Burrows, a brand ambassador for Jim Beam, and ‘master taster’ for Old Forester Jackie Zakan will be debating which classic bourbon cocktail reigns supreme. The Manhattan and Old Fashioned will face off for cocktail supremacy, although we’re pretty sure it’s just a good excuse to sample both in one sitting. 

 6:15 p.m: Slavery In American Whiskey

Enslaved people helped build the foundation of American whiskey, and a panel of historians and experts will be gathering to tell some of their stories. Led by renowned whiskey connoisseur Fred Minnick, the panel will include Clay Risen, a food editor for the New York Times, and Bourbon Hall of Famer Freddie Johnson.

 

Full Food and Bourbon Panel Lineup:

Friday, September 20 

Better In The Bluegrass Stage (Culinary Demos and Presentations) 

  • Noon: Edward Lee
  • 1:30 p.m.: Jose Salazar & Matt Abdoo
  • 3 p.m.: Michael Voltaggio & Adam Sobel
  • 4:30 p.m.: Justin Sutherland & Ben Jaffe (Preservation Hall Jazz Band)

Kentucky Gold Stage (Bourbon Demos and Presentations) 

  • 11:35 a.m.: Welcome
  • 12:40 p.m.: Beer Drinker’s Bourbon
  • 2:05 p.m.: How Highball Can You Go?
  • 3:50 p.m.: Whiskey Women
  • 5:05 p.m.: Bourbon Disrupters 
  • 6:05 p.m.: What Is A Master Distiller

Saturday, September 21 

Better In The Bluegrass Stage (Culinary Demos and Presentations) 

  • 1:05 p.m.: Graham Elliot
  • 2:30 p.m.: Tiffani Thiessen
  • 4 p.m.: Brooke Williamson
  • 5:30 p.m.: Kelsey Barnard Clark & Sara Bradley

Kentucky Gold Stage (Bourbon Demos and Presentations) 

  • 11:25 a.m.: Bourbon Storytime
  • 12:25 p.m.: Barrel Finish Vs. Traditional Bourbon
  • 1:35 p.m.: Whiskey’s Dark Past
  • 3 p.m.: The Barrel
  • 4:45 p.m.: The Van Winkle Family

Sunday, September 22

Better In The Bluegrass Stage (Culinary Demos and Presentations) 

  • 12:45 p.m.: Ouita Michel
  • 2:05 p.m.: Rusty Hamlin & Coy Bowles (Zac Brown Band)
  • 3:35 p.m.: Amanda Freitag & Tierinii Jackson (Southern Avenue)
  • 4:15 p.m.: Jamie Bissonnette

Kentucky Gold Stage (Bourbon Demos and Presentations) 

  • 11:15 a.m.: Welcome
  • 12:05 p.m.: Manhattan Vs. The Old Fashioned
  • 1:15 p.m.: Sweet Mash: The Whiskey Revolution
  • 2:35 p.m.: Master Taster: How To Taste Like A Pro
  • 4:15 p.m.: Executive Round Table
  • 6:15 p.m.: Slavery In American Whiskey History

 

A Minute in Boise, Idaho, with Eilen Jewell

Welcome to “A Minute In” — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Eilen Jewell takes us on a tour of Boise, Idaho. The singer-songwriter just released her newest album, Gypsy.

My hometown of Boise, Idaho, is a cheerful little place. In fact, visitors to our fair city, or those who have recently relocated, often find the friendliness a bit off-putting at first. Queues tend to move more slowly than in most places, often due to the simple fact that people like to chat and exchange pleasantries. In this regard, there’s an innocence to my hometown, elements of bygone days still intact

But there’s a lot more to Boise than friendliness and a slow pace. We also have nearly boundless outdoor space within arm’s reach. We have great parks and libraries and historic buildings (including one the oldest synagogues west of the Mississippi). We have delicious, award-winning food, two thriving farmers markets, more amazing breweries than you can shake a stick at, and local wine that rivals California’s, in my humble opinion.

This is not the cornfields of similar-sounding Iowa or Ohio, though they are lovely places in their own right. This is Idaho, as in the Rockies, as in mountain lakes and whitewater rivers. This is where I keep returning to, especially when I’m in dire need of some elbow room, and always when I need to write.

Here are some places and activities that I recommend to anyone lucky enough to visit my hometown:

Rediscovered Books (180 N 8th St.) is a sweet bookstore in the heart of downtown, offering new and used titles of all kinds, but very well-curated. If it’s not quality they don’t sell it, and everyone in there really knows their books. They have fun events on a regular basis, including book signings and story time for kids. It’s where I do nearly all of my Christmas shopping every year.

Boiseans almost always use cardinal directions. The mountains are north, so as long as you can see them you can’t get lost. And you can almost always see them. So, moving slightly east from downtown we encounter the historic Basque District. For those unfamiliar, the Basque Country is that mountainous region of northern Spain and southern France. Many folks of Basque descent made their way to southern Idaho over the generations, mainly to herd sheep.

They stayed and thrived, and now Boiseans are very proud of their Basque heritage. We even boast of being the only town in America with a mayor who is fluent in Basque, Mayor Dave Bieter. You can learn about all of this at the Basque Museum and Cultural Center (611 W. Grove St.). For an authentic Boise Basque culinary experience, go to Bar Gernika (202 S. Capitol Blvd.) and order croquetas with a kalimotxo to wash them down.

Head just a bit south from there and catch a movie at The Flicks (646 W. Fulton St.). I love this place. They specialize in indie, foreign, and art films and often screen great documentaries. I like to enjoy a glass of wine while I watch. And their cookies are delicious too.

Next take a walk through nearby Julia Davis Park, and maybe check out one of our lovely museums there, like the Boise Art Museum (670 E. Julia Davis Dr), or perhaps the Idaho Black History Museum (508 Julia Davis Dr.). Then be sure to connect with the Boise River Greenbelt, just on the other side of the park from there. You’ll have over 30 miles along the river to bike or walk or birdwatch or whatever floats your boat. (You can even boat.) I always see wildlife along the river, even bald eagles once in a blue moon.

Head west along the Greenbelt and you’ll be able to quench your well-earned thirst at Lost Grove Brewing (1026 S. La Pointe St.), a fun neighborhood brewery my friends started a few years ago. They always have a solid variety of fresh brews on tap and a cheerful bartender or two to guide you through the selection process. By the way, Idaho is 10th in the nation in breweries per capita. Yeah, we like our beer.

Scoot a bit north of there, to what is known as the Linen District, and check yourself into The Modern Hotel (1314 W. Grove St.). Not only do they have one of the best restaurants in town, a killer cocktail menu, original artwork in each unique room, and a campfire out front on most nights, they also have gnome statues in the restrooms that hold up little turntables for your musical enjoyment while you powder your nose.

Just west of there is the Record Exchange (1105 W. Idaho St.). How do I sufficiently describe my love for this place? It has been the pulse of Boise’s music scene and all things good since 1977, and it’s one of the best indie record stores in the country. It’s also a really fun spot to catch an in-store performance by both local and touring acts.

Last but not least, no trip to Boise would be complete without a visit to our beautiful foothills and historic Hyde Park (1413 to 1620 N. 13th St.). This is a charming little neighborhood in Boise’s quaint north end, where I grew up. Nearby Camels Back Park (1200 Heron St.) never fails to deliver. Hike all around those gorgeous trails, then up the big hill and enjoy a sunset with the best view in town.

 

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A hike a day keeps the blues away ☀️

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Because we’re on the western edge of the Mountain Time Zone, the sun sets very late in Boise in the summertime. On a clear day, and most days are clear in Boise, you can still see a bit of light around 10:30 p.m. As you watch that sun sink down over the horizon, congratulate yourself on a day well spent in one of the prettiest little cities on earth. And come back soon. Just promise not to tell too many people.

Here’s a list of songs I’ve written that were directly inspired by Boise or the surrounding area:

“My Hometown”
“Always Coming Home”
“Kalimotxo”
“Boundary County”
“Half-Broke Horse”


 

Traveler: Your Guide to San Antonio

San Antonio is a multicultural city with a rich history and vibrant art culture. A museum goer’s dream, the second largest city in Texas is packed with evolving and impressive museums and galleries galore. San Antonio’s music scene attracts outlaws, the art scene attracts Picassos, and the culinary scene attracts Mexican food perfectionists. Plus, who wouldn’t want to go to the city which holds a world record in tamale making?

Getting There

River Walk at Dusk. Photo credit: Tim Thompson

Located in south central Texas, San Antonio is nearly nestled against the Mexican border. San Antonio International Airport (SAT) is located northeast of San Antonio proper, offering plenty of nonstop flights in and out daily. If you want to tack onto a trip to Austin or Houston, San Antonio is a one- or three-hour drive, respectively.

Where to Stay

Inn on the River Walk

The Inn on the River Walk is a classic bed & breakfast, sprawling throughout three 1900s homes along the famous River Walk, while Hotel Havana is a boutique hotel overlooking the River Walk with a noteworthy bar called Ocho. There are plenty of affordable Airbnb options, too. Stick to looking in the downtown and River Walk areas, East San Antonio, Alamo Heights, and the King Williams Historic District for staying in lively areas.

The Hotel Emma

The Hotel Emma is a destination in and of itself because of its unique trappings and in-house upscale restaurants. It’s worth a meal just to peep the decor inside.

What to Do

McNay museum. 

San Antonio is museum central. Everything from Picassos to O’Keeffes reside in the McNay, a world-class modern art museum with more than 20,000 works. The Witte Museum is an interactive science-meets-nature-meets-culture experience, and the brand new DoSeum Children’s Museum features STEM-centric, hands-on exhibits for kids like Spy Academy and Sensations Studio.

Botanical Garden. Photo credit: visitsanantonio.com

Freshly renovated, the San Antonio Botanical Garden includes a family garden, Texas Native Trail, bird watching opportunities, and a tropics-heavy conservatory.

The Alamo. Photo credit: visitsanantonio.com

Though San Antonio is a history nerd’s playground, the Alamo is a given stop on any traveler’s itinerary. Originally established as a one of the early Spanish missions in Texas, the fortress has had many uses and is now preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s free and spans four acres, so it’ll take a few hours to cover the grounds. San Antonio Missions National Historical Park is home to four of the city’s five Spanish missions — outposts that date back to the 17th century.

Under construction and opening in 2019 is Ruby City, a contemporary art center designed by Sir David Adjaye — the same architect who designed the Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, DC.

If you like your learning with a side of live music, check out Jazz, TX at Pearl, Paper Tiger, and Willie Nelson’s Luck Reunion fest every March.

Eats & Drinks

Hotel Havana

With more than 1,000 Mexican restaurants, authentic Texas BBQ, and international cuisine from every corner of the world, San Antonio’s culinary scene is robust. The Pearl District and Southtown are restaurant-rich parts of town where you can point to pretty much any spot on the map and strike gold. Grab a drink at Ocho (in Hotel Havana), and you’ll be situated in a glass conservatory overlooking the River Walk sipping locally inspired cocktails.

The Esquire Tavern

The Esquire Tavern is a James Beard-nominated bar with the longest wooden bar top in Texas. Its vibe is informed by the year it opened — 1933. Don’t miss their smoky, chimichurri-doused chalupitas.

Breakfast options include Bakery Lorraine, which moved from the San Francisco area to the Pearl in San Antonio and offers renowned tarts and macaroons. Chef Johnny Hernandez is a local celeb and his Frutería-Botanero will prove why. This Southtown gem serves fresh-pressed juices and smoothies by day and transforms into a Mexican-style small plate bar by night. If you’re feeling a good ole’ American meal of BBQ & beer, hit up the Granary.

Luck Reunion Tips

Valerie June at Luck Reunion. Photo credit: Nathan Poppe

An hour-and-a-half north of San Antonio, musical outlaws gather every March among the fading movie set facades for a musical reunion. Luck Reunion was originally Willie Nelson’s brainchild, beginning on his ranch in Luck, Texas.

Sure, the Reunion’s lineup is stacked with big names, but the fest is equally as dedicated to encouraging music fans to experience rising acts who are doing it all on their own terms. The festival organizers program the early slots to be filled with the artists they believe will be the next crop of rogue music legends.

The Nelson family’s cardinal rule is “Don’t be an asshole,” and that rings true during the festival. Don’t take the historic property, the people you’re surrounded by, or the music for granted while you’re (literally) in Luck. And, no, that is not a skunk you smell.

Traveler: Your Guide to Bellevue, WA

Bellevue, Washington, is a quick commute outside of Seattle and a gateway to the beauty of the Puget Sound region. With a compact and walkable downtown, Bellevue is a culture-filled day trip for when you have an extra day in the Seattle area or want to soak up a rich bluegrass fest. The 25-year-old Wintergrass Music Festival is a compelling reason to plan a trip to Bellevue every February, boasting OG bluegrassers like Del McCoury, the Seldom Scene, and Peter Rowan.

Getting There

Just nine miles south of Seattle, Bellevue offers a quick getaway from big city life. Take a half-hour bus ride or drive from Seattle to reach Bellevue. The Seattle-Tacoma airport is a 16-mile drive from Bellevue, making Bellevue and Seattle a convenient two-for-one trip. Once in Bellevue, you won’t need a car much because the city is quite walkable, unless you want to venture to nearby attractions.

Where to Stay

Wintergrass festival-goers will want to stay at the Hyatt Regency Bellevue, since it’s centrally located downtown and close to the music. Silver Cloud Inn Bellevue is also walking distance to the festival and a more budget-friendly basecamp, offering discounts to Wintergrass attendees. For a more boutique hotel experience, the Europe-inspired AC Hotel’s design marries modern with classic, serving a hearty European-style breakfast each morning.

What to Do

Bellevue Arts Museum. Photo credit: Scott Harder.

The Bellevue Arts Museum is nationally renowned for their art, craft, and design. The museum started from an art fair in the 1940s and has become a staple in the city. During Wintergrass 2018, the museum welcomes a Pakistan-born artist named Humaira Abid, well-known for her symbolically rich wood sculptures and mini paintings.

Woodinville Wine Country. Photo credit: Novelty Hill Januik Winer.

Woodinville Wine Country’s climate is ripe for grapes, boasting more than 115 wineries and tasting rooms. It’s a quick drive from Bellevue into the scenic valley of Woodinville, and it’s not just for wine lovers: Their microbreweries, distilleries, cideries, and robust farm-to-table scene are all impressive.


Bellevue Skyline. Photo credit: Visit Bellevue Washington by Merrill Images.

Bellevue Downtown Park is a 21-acre green space in the heart of downtown along with Inspiration Playground. Pit stops at Third Culture Coffee, a globally influenced coffee and tea shop, are encouraged. Try their Mexican or Vietnamese Coffee.

The 36-acre Bellevue Botanical Garden is stunning, featuring a rhododendron glen, Japanese Yao garden, and a stone garden, plus admission is free.

We recommend the punny Puget Sounds record shop and Silver Platters for your vinyl fix. Bake’s Place is Bellevue’s answer to “dinner and a show,” and the Showbox hosts gigs by indie rockers to singer/songwriters to country artists and more.

Eats and Drinks

The Lakehouse Bellevue

Bellevue is quickly becoming a foodie hotspot, drawing award-winning talent to the scene, like James Beard Award winner Chef Jason Wilson’s the Lakehouse. Japonessa fuses Japanese and Latin American flavors and is known for their extensive happy hour and traditional sushi. Locals love Lot No. 3 where the cocktail and spirits program has been recognized as one of the strongest in the Puget Sound. For breakfast goods, head to Belle Pastry on Main Street for exceptional French croissants.

Wintergrass Tips

Wintergrass originated in Tacoma and has made its home Bellevue for nearly 10 years. Home to many IBMA- and Grammy Award-winning artists, the festival takes place in the Hyatt Hotel every February and offers 70+ performances throughout the weekend. Always have your instrument on you for the various, spontaneous jam session which break out at any given moment. Don’t overlook the educational component at this fest, because who knows when you’ll be able to learn to clog at a music festival.

Ballrooms and bars in the Hyatt are turned into venues, making seating at popular shows competitive. Don’t feel pressured to buy food and drinks at bars while watching shows, which has been a point of contention in the past. The festival is laid out nicely indoors — so you barely have to leave — and the surrounding restaurants are easily walkable.


Lede: Lede Photo courtesy of Visit Bellevue Washington, by Merrill Images

Traveler: Your Guide to 30A

Named for the scenic stretch of highway running through the 16 beach towns in Florida along the Gulf of Mexico, 30A is a curated, Instagram-able beach experience. From the tower in Seaside to the monochromatic white buildings of Alys Beach, each part of 30A has an aesthetic which breaks the beach bum mold. Among them, Santa Rosa Beach is home to the renowned 30A Songwriters Festival every January.

Getting There

Located on the northwest gulf coast of Florida between Destin and Panama City, the 30A region is easy to reach. Between Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport (ECP), Pensacola Gulf Coast Regional Airport (PNS), and Destin/Ft. Walton Beach Airport (VPS), plenty of nonstop flights to big cities are available to the area. While there, navigating by bike is the norm, but Uber and Lyft are available.

Where to Stay

30A stretches 50 miles along the Gulf of Mexico, offering plenty of accommodations — from beachside condos to full-blown resorts to Airbnbs. Resorts abound, but we recommend the Airbnb or VRBO approach. The Songwriters Festival is headquartered in Santa Rosa Beach, but Seaside, Seagrove, Watercolor, Grayton Beach, Rosemary Beach, and Alys Beach are all close by. If you want to spring for the resort life, try the Pearl.

Must Sees

Central Square Records. Photo credit: Dawn Whitty

In addition to beach time, 30A’s laid-back towns have a lot to offer. In Seaside’s Central Square, Sundog Books and Central Square Records are a culture lover’s dream. A book/record store combo with recommendations by staff who have their finger on the pulse. Central Square also hosts in-store performances regularly and during the 30A Songwriters Festival. Seaside is also home to a variety of art galleries behind Central Square on DiBicci Park. Check out Red Bird Gallery and An Apartment in Paris.

Grayton Beach State Park. Photo credit: Pixabay

For the outdoorsy folks, Grayton Beach State Park has cabins to rent, plus a 4.5 mile hiking/biking loop alongside the Gulf of Mexico. The stand up paddleboard craze pretty much originated in this area, so finding a guide company is easy. Paddleboard in the bay, if you’re a first timer, and we recommend renting through YOLO.

Eats & Drinks

Photo credit: 732 Whiskey Bravo

Seaside is centrally located and packed with great restaurants and bars. Modica Market is a locally owned, old-school market with anything from ibuprofen to homemade cakes. Bud & Alley’s is quintessential 30A, where you can mingle with locals — it’s been around since the ’80s and, during sunset every day, restaurant goers guess the exact time the sun will set on a chalkboard and, if you guess the time correctly, you get a drink on the house. Vue on 30A is a fancy, beachfront dining spot in Santa Rosa Beach well known for brunch.

For rooftop drinks and poboys, head to 732 Whiskey Bravo — just off Central Square in Seaside. If you want a drink without having to rinse the sand off your feet, Red Bar is your best bet. They host live music often and serve killer crab claws and Bloody Marys. Trebeache’s illustrious 2-for-1 oyster happy hour is well-loved at this upscale Santa Rosa seafood haven.

30A Songwriters Festival Pro Tips

30A Songwriters Festival. Photo credit: Shelly Swanger

The 30A Songwriters Festival is a decentralized, discovery festival taking place up and down 30A in more than 25 venues, from intimate theaters to funky bars. It’s the type of festival where you might find Zac Brown wandering into a small restaurant to hop on stage for a few songs … unannounced. Shows take place in intimate venues which make you feel like your uncle is singing you tunes while explaining what inspired him to write them. Since there are more than 225 performances, strategies are encouraged.

Grand Boulevard Stage. Photo credit: Shelly Swanger

Familiarize yourself with the schedule and prioritize your top artists because lines can be long to get into popular shows. Get to smaller venues early for artists you’re dead-set on seeing. There are free shuttles running constantly to get you from venue to venue, which are helpful and reliable. For the bigger shows at Grand Boulevard, bring lawn chairs. It’s an outdoor/indoor festival in Florida in January, so the weather can be a crapshoot. Check the forecast, but concert goers are usually fine in shorts during the fest — a perk of Florida.


Lede photo credit: Visit South Walton

Traveler: Your Guide to Jackson Hole

Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is quite literally a hole in the the Teton Mountain Range, created be a 50-mile long, flat valley. This small town, with about 9,500 permanent residents, is the type of place where you pull on your fanciest cowboy boots for a night out drinking whiskey. Found in the northwest corner of Wyoming, Jackson Hole is 6,237 feet high and 2.9 square miles in size. The Western nostalgia and Native American influences are pervasive throughout, making themselves known from statues to studded saddles. Jackson Hole is a city where the most recognizable neon sign in the “skyline” reads “Cowboy Bar,” but the culinary, art, and resort influences give the town a more debonair feel.

Getting There

Yonder Is Jackson Hole. Photo credit: Dhtrible via Wikimedia

United, Delta, and American service Jackson Hole Airport (JAC), the only commercial airport in the U.S. within a national park. The town is 36 miles from the airport, 15 miles from the Idaho border, and 12 miles south of Teton Village. Within Jackson Hole, the public bus system, called START, is so efficient and easy to use you won’t need a car.

Stay

Antler Arch. Photo credit: Ken Lund via Wikimedia

Whether you’re looking for an opulent mountainside villa or a campsite with compost toilets, Jackson Hole has a manifold of accommodations. Alpine House’s European-style, certified eco-friendly lodge serves breakfast prepared by in-house chefs each morning. The Wort — pronounced “The Wirt” in local lingo — is a boutique hotel nearly 80 years in the making, offering quintessentially Western suites and the town’s most hoppin’ music venue, the Silver Dollar Showroom. If you’re rolling in it, Amangani’s rooms have expansive views of the Tetons, plus a ski-in lodge. On the opposite side of the ammenity spectrum, campgrounds abound. Try the Jackson Hole/Snake River Koa, Curtis Canyon Campground or the Hoback Campground.

Eat & Drink

Lotus. Photo credit: @organiclotusjh on Instagram

From classic spots with speakeasy Western vibes like the White Buffalo Room’s house-aged steaks to Lotus’s raw pad Thai made with turnip noodles, this tiny town’s food scene runs the gamut.

Persephone is a popular French-style bakery offering breakfast and lunch options. Pro tip: Order the squash and ricotta toast, featuring creamy butternut squash and ricotta spread with crunchy pumpkin seeds and espresso salt. Their sister restaurant, Picnic, offers the same core baked goods, plus not-so-average breakfast items like biscuits & gravy with Dijon maple creme and goat cheese bacon crumbles. Pinky G’s is the late-night spot of choice, going on five years voted as Jackson Hole’s “Best Pizza.”

For a night out, start with drinks at the Handle Bar, where you can roast s’mores at your table while you sip whiskey neat. Then, head to the Coach for a night of dancing to the renowned Stagecoach Band, who also plays a weekly “Sunday Church” show on Sunday nights.

Adventure

Grand Tetons National Park. Photo credit: Hawthorne Ave via Wikimedia

With two national parks, a national refuge, and myriad public parks situated in Jackson Hole, less than three percent of the land is privately owned. The other 97 percent is state or federal government-owned. All year, outdoorsy tourists roam Jackson Hole. Summer months are full of hiking, fly-fishing, and mountain biking, while winter is for skiing and snowboarding, and spring is the most active time for wildlife viewing.

The sheer grandeur of Grand Teton National Park is right in the name. You can’t go wrong meandering within the park, but don’t miss Cascade Canyon, Granite Canyon, and Amphitheater Lake. The park is a magnet for photographers and technical mountain climbers because of the size and breadth of the mountain range. The entrance fee is $30 per vehicle.

Grand Tetons. Photo credit: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Yellowstone National Park’s south entrance is 90 miles north of Jackson Hole, covering 3,500 square miles of land in Wyoming. It is the oldest national park, gaining status after photographers, painters, and sketchers captured and showed the wonders of the Tetons to Congress in 1872. The park sits on top of an ancient super-volcano and has more than 1,000 of miles of backcountry hiking. Also noteworthy is the National Elk Refuge with thousands of elk making the spot their home for the winter and spring. For the best chance of catching a glimpse of elk, head out with binoculars in the spring.

Of course Jackson Hole is predominantly a ski town, with several resorts close by like the challenging Snow King and the cornerstone of ski resorts in town, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

Art

National Museum of Wildlife Art. Photo credit: Daniel Mayer via Wikimedia

The art scene in Jackson Hole is distinctively Western and home to world-class organizations. From ornately decorated handmade leather saddles to scenes of buffalo upon canvas to jewelry adorned with large hunks of turquoise, strolling the galleries in Jackson Town Square won’t let you forget you’re in equestrian country. We recommend the Congressionally designated National Museum of Wildlife Art, RARE Gallery of Fine Arts, Astoria Fine Art, and Trailside Galleries. 

As for the musical arts, the Pink Garter Theatre hosts a variety of roots artists we love like Elephant Revival and the Lil Smokies. The Silver Dollar Show Room has a bluegrass show every Tuesday night featuring their house band, One Ton Pig, and the Mangy Moose is a solid choice for drinks and live music apres skiing. Our roots music brethren gather in Grand Targhee Resort for the Targhee Bluegrass Festival. Catch classics like Sam Bush, Tim O’Brien, Railroad Earth, and Greensky Bluegrass at this fest recurring yearly since 1988.

Traveler: Your Guide to Moab, Utah

Moab, Utah, is a playground. Seemingly built to climb rocks and rappel down rock faces, this rugged town is surrounded by two national parks and countless state parks. It’s the chaco-wearing, Jeep-driving, Clif Bar-eating crowd’s Mecca. In a valley of red rock, the otherworldly colors and shapes are a reminder of how powerful water and ice can be in shaping a landscape. Rock-peeping tourists, tour guides, local business owners — plus the plants and animals who can survive in the harsh climate — are the occupants of this adventure lovers’ town.

Getting There

About an hour from the Colorado border, Moab isn’t exactly centrally located. The two closest major (read: cheapest) airports are in Salt Lake City and Denver at four hours and five-and-a-half hours away, respectively. Moab is right off Interstate 70, which makes for a long but scenic drive through the mountains from Denver. Grand Junction, Colorado, is an hour-and-a-half away and has a regional airport.

Where to Stay

CloudHouse

Kitschy hotels and “resorts” abound in Moab, but we recommend convening with nature. With campgrounds a-plenty, camping is one of your best bets. Try the Big Bend campground, located on a scenic road right on the Colorado River just a few miles from downtown Moab. Of the resorts, Red Cliffs Lodge stands out as one of the best with large rooms right on the Colorado River and views for days. Airbnb options range from tiny cabins right in town, like Sunny Acres, to plenty of yurts and teepees, which are a popular option. We also recommend staying in the La Sal Mountains outside of town in the “CloudHouse.

The Outdoors

Tower Arch

The two national parks — Arches and Canyonlands — get most of the condign glory in the area. Arches National Park has plenty of rock formations to go around, and most are viewable from the scenic drive which intersects the park. The park offers hikes for every level, from a mere quarter-mile climb leading to the impressive Double Arch, to longer hikes across the primitive landscape involving rock scrambles and sand trekking to the Tower Arch and Devil’s Garden. Heat strategies are encouraged for the summer months, like getting hikes in before noon and toting a liter of water per person at all times.

Canyonlands: Island in the Sky

After visiting Arches, it seems impossible for nearby parks to be any different from the steep, reddish-pink rocks visible for miles, dotted with the grey-green cacti and sagebrush. However, Canyonlands National Park’s immensity and landscape is a stark contrast from Arches. It’s huge and split into four sections with sprawling, steep rock formations. The Needles is a particularly stunning spot to explore for longer trips, and Island in the Sky is a great lookout point for passers-through.

A departure from the desert climate of both Arches and Canyonlands, climbing into the Manti-La Sal National Forest offers a green, lush heat respite and is peppered with archeological sites like dinosaur footprints, giving us Land Before Time throwbacks.

After taking in the scenery by foot, Moab’s thriving adventure tourism scene will prompt you to explore via plane, rope, boat, or 4WD vehicle. We recommend canyoneering with Red River Adventures or flying over Arches in Redtail Air Adventures’ $99 flight. Mill Creek Waterfall provides a much needed place to take a cool dip in the middle of the desert and, if you’re feeling hungry, head to Potato Salad Hill to drive ATVs over the boulders and well-trafficked 4WD trails.

Food & Drink

Quesadilla Mobilla

Admittedly Moab isn’t a foodie town, which makes finding post-adventure grub a bit tougher. Quesadilla Mobilla has flavorful, cheap quesadillas with chipotle sour cream and spicy salsa, plus a courtyard full of water misters to cool you down while their food heats you up. We may have eaten at this downtown food truck three times in five days. Groceries and quick food options are available at Moonflower Community Co-op, a classic organic grocery located in downtown.

There’s no other brewery option in Moab, which makes the choice clear to head to Moab Brewery for post-hike brews. Love Muffin is a breakfast and lunch spot with plenty of veggie options, breakfast sandwiches, plus deliciously strong cold brew. Moab Garage Co. serves nitro ice cream by the friendliest husband and wife entrepreneur duo and offers local art.

The Arts

Moab Made

Certainly inspired by the landscape, local artists — and those just passing through — have created a robust art gallery scene along the main strip. Moab Made features rotating local artists, many of them using recycled materials for their artistry, like a local who makes jewelry from re-tire-d bike tires.

Moab Music Festival pairs musicians with the landscape every summer, offering musical hikes, musical raft trips, and concerts at the edge of the Colorado River. We were lucky enough to see BGS faves Béla Fleck & Abigail Washburn do their witty, endearing, magical thing at the Red Cliffs Lodge.

Local Flair

Back of Beyond Books

Indigo Alley is a well-curated local clothing shop offering men’s and women’s clothing, like leggings patterned with cacti to blend in with your surroundings. Back of Beyond Books has a great selection of regionally specific books for deeper dives into the Utah area and an impressive selection of antique copies of classic literature.

If you’d like to take a bit of the landscape with you, Moab Rock Shop is your souvenir shop. It’s not one of those cheeky rock shops, instead offering pieces from Utah to the Himalayas with rock nerds there to tell you the origin and benefits of each piece.


Lede photo credit: Anthony Quintano via Foter.com / CC BY. All other photos by Josephine Wood.

Traveler: Your Guide to Toronto

Toronto touts itself as the diversely beautiful, densely populated Canadian culture center. It’s probably no coincidence that, in the age of Trump, the city’s current marketing campaign highlights their inclusiveness in the form of the slogan “The views are different here.” It’s not just marketing spin: In fact, 50 percent of the population was born outside of Canada, citizens speak more than 130 languages, and the city government publishes information in 30 languages. Often called “Canada’s Downtown,” this business, media, and sports hub boasts a population of 2.8 million, making it the fourth largest city in North America.

Getting There

 

A new airport rail link makes getting from the airport to downtown Toronto a quick 25-minute ride. Because Canada always seems to get it right, the city’s public transportation is top notch, so you won’t need more than a TTC card while you’re visiting to hop on and off of their subway, bus, and streetcar system.

Where to Stay

 

If you want to stay in the heart of the action, the über-stylish Le Germain Hotel is a good choice. It’s located in downtown on Mercer Street and not too far from the airport. Cambridge Suites Toronto is also centrally located and close to St. Lawrence Market. If you’re going car-less, which is definitely possible, staying close to downtown is your best choice. Toronto’s bed and breakfast game is strong, with more than 100 traditional cottages boasting award-winning gardens. AirBnb it in the charming villages of the trendy Bloor West Village or Cabbagetown, or stay in a uniquely Toronto experience: a Boatel — a boat bed and breakfast on the waterfront.

Eats & Drinks

Photo: Kensington Market by Tourism Toronto

 

The open-air market culture is a unique part of Toronto, and Kensington Market is not to be missed. It’s a multicultural area of about 10 blocks boasting cheese, spices, and tea shops which have been around for years. Try the sourdough at Blackbird Baking Co. and the cardamom/pink pepper/lavender kombucha at Witches Brew.

A quick 15-minute trip across town is another highly trafficked market where maple-flavored everything abounds. Named the top food market in the world by National Geographic, St. Lawrence Market is a 200-year-old traditional market with butchers, bakers, and farmers selling diverse fare. Be sure to try a peameal bacon (a uniquely Canadian treat consisting of pork rolled in cornmeal) sandwich at Carousel Bakery and homemade pasta from one of the artisans.

Photo: @Bar_Raval instagram

 

As for drinks, Bar Raval is a Barcelona-inspired, Gaudi-esque spot for drinks with locals, serving tapas displayed across the bar for you to smell and see before you order.

A multicultural population translates to a worldly food scene, where you can eat your way around the world in Little Portugal, Greektown, Chinatown, Little India, and Little Italy. Toronto is also very into izakayas, which are casual Japanese gastro pubs, and Imanishi is one of the best.

The Gaybourhood

 

Photo: Church and Wellsley by Tourism Toronto

 

Toronto was the first jurisdiction to legalize gay marriage in North America in June of 2003, so it’s no surprise that their gay scene thrives, centered around the intersection of Church and Wellesley downtown. A staple of the gay scene for more than 25 years, Woody’s is the most popular gay men’s bar enjoying popularity from appearances on Queer As FolkEl Convento Rico started as a safe haven underground club for lesbians and trans people who were persecuted and has featured drag shows for more than 20 years. Fabarnak Restaurant is a great brunch spot, plus it serves as a training environment for people with employment barriers to be guided by professional chefs.

 

The Arts

Photo: Street Art by Tourism Toronto

 

The Art Gallery of Ontario hosts the largest collection of Canadian art with an emphasis on Inuit art from the Nation’s beginning, plus much anticipated traveling exhibitions like Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors.

For live music, head to the legendary Horseshoe Tavern, where the Rolling Stones played many impromptu concerts, or Massey Hall,  which hosts BGS faves like Jason Isbell and Andy Shauf. Toronto has an impressive roster of musicians who hail from the area … Shania Twain, anyone?

The city’s architecture is exquisite. Be sure to visit the Distillery Historic District, housing 47 buildings from the 1850s which make up the largest collection of Victorian industrial architecture in North America. From the flat iron to city hall — which looks like a giant unblinking eye — Toronto’s architecture runs the gamut. Street art is encouraged by the city and can be seen in Grafitti Alley, the Kensington Market area, the Ossington Laneway, and on the Keele-Dundas Wall.


Lede photo credit: Benson Kua

Traveler: Your Guide to Boulder

The mountain culture in Boulder, Colorado, is rich and so is the festival-like atmosphere at Boulder Creek on a summer day. It’s the type of town which doesn’t take itself too seriously, hosting events like Tube to Work Day and the Rocky Mountain Tea Festival. Expansive views of the Flatiron Mountains, an abundance of home-brewed kombucha, the number one farmers’ market in the country, and a plethora of readily accessible hiking trails makes Boulder one of the most charming cities in America. It may be a crunchy town, but it has much more to offer than college students and marijuana.

Getting There

Flying into Denver is almost certainly your best bet for getting to Boulder. A quick 45-minute jaunt to Boulder makes Denver a cheaper airport option, plus it’s an international airport that is a favorite among touring artists.

Outdoors

Photo: Boulder County Farmers’ Market

Chatauqua Park is the gem of Boulder, boasting the best views of the Flatirons — five iconic mountains situated within city limits. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon during the week to avoid packed trails. For a more moderate hike, Arches winds through the Flatirons, ending with quite the view and a flagstone arch. The Sanitas trail is a more strenuous hike, offering expansive well-worth-it views of the surrounding plains. Head to Flagstaff Mountain on the weekends to avoid crowds at more popular trails.

The Boulder Farmers’ Market, a festival-like atmosphere on Boulder Creek, happens every Saturday morning from 8 – 2 pm on 13th Street, April through November. It’s been named the top farmers’ market in the country because Colorado’s climate allows for a diverse offering of fresh produce and flowers, plus locally made kombucha and goat cheese. Go hungry, because the prepared foods are top notch: Don’t miss Sister’s Pantry’s dumplings. Plus, they’ve got beer, if you need a shopping break.

Even when the market is closed, Boulder Creek’s atmosphere is buzzing on hot summer days, running right through town. Tube, bike, fish, or chill and enjoy stacks of creek rocks set by stone-balancing artists. The hippie vibe is strong with this one.

Indoors

Photo credit: Boulder Bookstore

The Pearl Street mall is a pedestrian-only spot with lots of shops. Avoid the chain stores and head to Boulder BookstoreGoldmine Vintage, and Savvy, to name a few.

The Boulder Museum of Contemporary Art is centrally located along the farmers’ market path, showcasing some of the best art of modern times in a dynamic venue. It’s also an affordable experience with a one-buck price tag.

Music

Photo credit: RockyGrass

The Fox Theatre was voted the fourth best music venue in the country by Rolling Stone magazine, bringing diverse artists to their 625-capacity space. eTown Hall offers a more intimate space for artists to play in an old church and broadcasts a radio show featuring artists like Mavis Staples and Ani DiFranco. The Boulder Theater’s 1906 art deco building is also a hub for shows in town.

Just 15 miles north of Boulder, the Rockygrass Music Festival brings lots of BGS faves like the Earls of Leicester and the Lonely Heartstring Band to the mountains for a weekend of music every July. Vinyl Me Please, a rad record of the month club, is also based in Boulder.

Food & Drink

Photo credit: Brasserie Ten Ten

Two words: Happy. Hour. Since Boulder is a college town, cheap food and drinks abound. When the clock strikes 5, rooftop bars, homemade sangria, and two-for-ones call. Head to the locally owned Med for a sunny patio, sangria, and bacon-wrapped dates. Neighboring Brasserie Ten Ten also has solid happy hour deals, brie-filled crepes, and the best French food in Colorado.

For shockingly good sushi in the mountains, head to Sushi Zanmai where their fish is flown in daily and served by a staff that dons wigs, bursting into song without warning. Of course a granola town like Boulder also has great vegetarian food at Shine and plenty of quinoa at Alpine Modern Café.

Photo credit: Dushanbe Tea House

The Dushanbe Teahouse was completely built by hand without the use of any power tools, constructed in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and shipped over as a gift to their sister city, Boulder. It’s a hallmark of the town because of its ornate construction and high quality teas. Coffee lovers will like Boxcar Coffee Roasters for your typical hip, local joe spot and the Laughing Goat for a community atmosphere with organic goods.


Lede photo credit: Max and Dee via Foter.com / CC BY

A Minute In Troy with Sean Rowe

Welcome to “A Minute In …” — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Troy, New York’s Sean Rowe takes us on a tour of his favorite parks, restaurants, and beer bars. The songwriter just released New Lore.

I’m a Troy Boy, through and through. I was born and raised in and around these streets and have watched Troy, New York, go from being a rundown, forgotten city to the new “upstate Williamsburg.”  The streets I roamed as a kid, and my uncle’s restaurant where I washed dishes as a teenager, are now pretty damn hip — places with names like Peck’s Arcade and Superior Merchandise. And while I love to get a good whiskey on the rocks at Peck’s and a fancy cortado at Superior, my old favorites still stick with me, just like the old blues records I listened to while daydreaming of my rock and roll career as a kid on 15th Street. Here are a few of my old and current haunts.

Peebles Island State Park: Now, while this place is not in Troy proper, it’s close enough and so magical that I couldn’t leave it out. The three-mile island overlooks the place where the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers meet, and it’s an incredibly beautiful and historic place in the Mohawk creation story. The deer are everywhere here. It is my place of peace — where I go when I am road-weary and I need a way to reconnect. In early March of 2007, I found a young, lifeless buck lying in the walking trail. At the time, I was attending a wilderness survival school and I was eager to use my newfound skills to process the deer for food, tools, and clothing. Still got the deer hide with me to this day. This place, it’s unparalleled for me.  ​

Louis Rubin Approach (a.k.a. “The Steps”): Now this … this is classic Troy. It’s the view from the top of the “steps” at RPI (Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute) which were built in 1907. Over the years, the huge staircase has gotten several makeovers, and now it’s where I go to run, Rocky-style. I still dream that Mick will be waiting for me at the top with some sides of beef to punch, but … hasn’t happened yet.  

The Ale House: If you are a Trojan, as you would be called, then you’ve frequented the Ale House. It’s a classic, and it’s my Cheers bar … Ya know, everyone knows my name. The place is tiny — I’ve graduated from playing here to playing at their venue across the street called the Hangar — but it’s just that coziness that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside. That might also be the amazing wings … or the beers … or the Hembold’s hot dogs … or the Mexican night menu on Wednesdays …

Muza: You know when you’re super hungry and you don’t want to risk going somewhere you might be disappointed, so you have your standby restaurant that you know is going to hit the spot every single time? That’s Muza. Every. Single. Time. This place is a Polish feast that I would eat at every night if not for pesky things like heart disease. The food is incredible — kielbasa, pierogis, and crepes. Oh my. They’ve recently opened up a Biergarten called the Hill that is for the fancy folks. And while I love grabbing a Zywiec porter and a mushroom toastie up there, it’s the original Muza that has my heart.