From Bristol Sessions to Bessie Smith, East Tennessee Is Rich in Musical History

The Volunteer State has long been at the center of the music world, and East Tennessee destinations like Bristol, Johnson City, Knoxville and Chattanooga all have their own unique history and stories to tell about their roles in evolving the American music experience.

To shine a light on these musical destinations sometimes overshadowed by the behemoth of Nashville to the west, we’ve gathered over a dozen attractions worth visiting from Bristol’s Burger Bar to Knoxville’s Blue Plate Special and Chattanooga’s Songbirds Vintage Guitar & Pop Culture Museum. Spanning the realms of country, bluegrass, folk, hip-hop, blues and more, each stop is guaranteed to empower, inform, inspire and excite the music fan in every one of us.

Bristol

A couple years after the Grand Ole Opry launched in 1925, Ralph Peer of the Victor Talking Machine Company ventured to Bristol in 1927 to record sessions that would later be referred to as the “Big Bang” of modern day country music. Participating artists like the Carter Family, Jimmie Rodgers and the Stoneman Family are featured throughout the Birthplace of Country Music Museum. The brand new exhibit titled I’ve Endured: Women in Old-Time Music is on display now through 2023.

Located just on the Virginia side of the state line, the space digs into the circumstances that brought the sessions to Bristol in 1927 along with the artists included in them, how the sessions have and continue to shape country music in the present, and more. It also explores how festivals, the church, radio and Hollywood have helped to further propel country music into the mainstream way of life through displays, interactive exhibits, short films and more. With the museum having just been awarded over $1 million in grants to help fund expansion, visitors can expect even more from the space in the coming months and years.

Speaking of festivals, since 2001 the museum has also produced the popular Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion festival on the streets and in bars around the small mountain town. Over 30,000 music fans flock to the area every second weekend of September for the event honoring not only Bristol’s history as the “Birthplace of Country Music,” but the future artists that are helping to guide and redefine country and roots music in the present. Its 2022 gathering lived up to that and then some with performances from living legends like Tanya Tucker, Del McCoury and Rosanne Cash, and rising stars like Sierra Ferrell, 49 Winchester and Molly Tuttle.

A couple blocks away from the museum nestled on the corner of State Street and Piedmont Avenue you’ll find the renowned Burger Bar. In addition to serving up the best burgers and chili dogs in all of Bristol, the diner is best known for being the last place Hank Williams was seen alive. Williams was in the process of riding from Montgomery, Alabama, to Canton, Ohio, to play a show on New Year’s Eve 1952 when he died in the back seat of the car transporting him not long after leaving Bristol.

A short walk west down State Street will lead you to another tribute to the twin city’s claim as the Birthplace of Country Music, this time in the form of a 30 x 100 foot mural. First painted by artist, musician and radio host Tim White in 1986, the mural depicts the aforementioned Rodgers, Carters and Stonemans alongside Peer as musical notes flutter up the brick wall between them.

Less than a five minute drive from downtown Bristol you’ll stumble upon “Tennessee” Ernie Ford’s birth home. Born in Bristol in 1919, Ford went on to become a world famous singer, TV and radio star. The home, now owned by the Bristol Historical Association, is open for tours and houses countless personal items and memorabilia from the town’s most cherished son.

Johnson City

Twenty-five miles south of Bristol in Johnson City is another East Tennessee mainstay, The Down Home. Founded in 1976, the listening room style club has played host to artists like Kenny Chesney, Alison Krauss and The Dixie Chicks prior to them making it big. Bigger named acts like “Pancho and Lefty” songwriter Townes Van Zandt, bluesman Willie Dixon and A Prairie Home Companion collaborators Robin and Linda Williams have also performed there. More recently other local artists like Southwest Virginia’s 49 Winchester have continued that legacy by performing in the iconic space regularly, which hosts live music anywhere from two to four nights per week.

Knoxville

If Nashville is the center of music in Middle Tennessee, then Greater Knoxville is the center in East Tennessee, and it all begins before you even get into town. Located about 20 miles north of downtown, the Museum of Appalachia houses a pioneer village, historical relics and a Hall of Fame. The latter includes everything from Native American relics to collectibles from regional political, military and everyday figures along with musicians like Roy Acuff, Bill Monroe, The Carter Family, John Hartford and Redd Stewart whose music came to define the region.

Upon arriving in Knoxille proper, I’d recommend stretching out with the Cradle of Country Music Walking Tour. Comprised of 19 locations with an estimated completion time of an hour, the self-guided tour includes stops everywhere from the Tennessee Theatre (the official state theatre of Tennessee and site of the first public performance of Roy Acuff) to the Andrew Johnson Hotel (the original home of country music variety show The Midday Merry-Go-Round and where Hank Williams spent the last night of his life), to Market Square (where Sam Morrison of Bell Sales Company helped to launch Elvis Presley’s career in the 1950s by promoting “That’s All Right, Mama” on the loudspeakers).

Along the path of the walking tour you’ll also come across the Knoxville Visitor Center and WDVX 89.9 FM. Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and on Saturday from noon to 1 p.m., the independent radio station hosts its signature program, the Blue Plate Special, in front of a live audience. Hosted by Red Hickey and Sean McCollough, the show features music and conversation from a variety of up-and-coming roots musicians. Past performers have included The Avett Brothers, Old Crow Medicine Show and Chris Stapleton. However, when we visited the featured artists were Portland-based A.C. Sapphire and Kendall Lujan, along with Sierra Leone-born, Nashville-based Senie Hunt.

Once that wraps up you can finish off your musical escapades just down Gay Street at the Museum of East Tennessee History. Operated by The East Tennessee Historical Society, the building is home of everything from the Knox County Archives to the Museum of East Tennessee History, the latter of which houses an epic collection of artifacts and music memorabilia from Dolly Parton, Billy Bowman, the Bristol Sessions and more.

Sevierville and Pigeon Forge

We would be remiss if we didn’t mention Dollywood in a story about East Tennessee. After pulling over for pancakes at family-friendly Flapjacks, start your day in the town square of Sevierville. It’s impossible to tell Dolly Parton’s life story without speaking about her reverence for the Smoky Mountains and Sevier County especially. At the courthouse, you’ll want to snap a photo with the Dolly Parton statue on the courthouse lawn, created by sculptor Jim Gray.

For years, the Chasing Rainbows Museum at Dollywood has told Parton’s rags-to-riches story — and in her case, those rags led to the famous “Coat of Many Colors.” Parton herself revealed that the museum is being reinvented as the Dolly Parton Experience, set to open in 2024. (Cue: “Here You Come Again.”) One of the best breaks in the park is maybe sharing a loaf of cinnamon break in the rocking chairs in front of the grist mill. Still hungry after that? Dolly Parton’s Stampede provides a memorable, show-stopping experience and a four-course feast, sometimes served with forks.

Chattanooga

Just over an hour and a half southwest of Knoxville you’ll find another music-friendly city in Chattanooga. Located along the Tennessee-Georgia border, the city’s roots run deep in country, blues, hip hop and more, all of which you can learn about at the Bessie Smith Cultural Center and Chattanooga African American Museum. Inside you’ll find displays highlighting all of the city’s Black history including music with displays honoring hometown heroes like Usher, Kane Brown, The Impressions and the building’s namesake, Bessie Smith.

The Tennessee Aquarium draws most of the crowds downtown, while Rock City and Ruby Falls beckon tourists to Lookout Mountain. The city also has a terrific greenway system with artistic mile markers along the river. One of them just might be a silhouette of Bill Monroe. Speaking of bluegrass, drop in for breakfast at the Bluegrass Grill in downtown Chattanooga. Just around the corner you’ll find a brewpub, a chocolate shop, a distillery, and an ice cream store, all with local ties.

After singing a few lines about the famous Chattanooga Choo Choo, located on the grounds of a historic hotel, you can trace the modern history of the guitar at the nearby Songbirds Vintage Guitar & Pop Culture Museum. Much like the Bessie Smith Center, the museum recognizes local heroes while also wielding an insane — and growing — collection of vintage guitars, amps, and pedals. Current highlights on display when I visited included guitars from Duane Allman and Merle Travis, who is also featured at the Muhlenberg Music & History Museum mentioned in our previous story on Kentucky’s top music tourism destinations.

An hour northwest of Chattanooga — and just barely inside the confines of East Tennessee for the purpose of this story — sits The Caverns. The sought after getaway takes musicians and concertgoers alike underground for an unparalleled live music experience. The gritty grotto is most notably home to PBS television series The Caverns Sessions (formerly Bluegrass Underground), which has already announced performances from Sierra Ferrell, Allison Russell, The Lil Smokies and more in 2023. Guided tours of the cave system are also available seven days a week. If the timing lines up, consider checking out the Big Mouth Bluegrass Festival (July 1-2, 2023) or CaveFest (October 6-8).

For more information on tourism destinations throughout East Tennessee, visit TNVacation.com.


Photo Credit: Tennessee Tourism/Andrew Saucier

Exclusive: Bluegrass Underground Reveals Season X Lineup

The Bluegrass Situation is pleased to announce the artists for Bluegrass Underground’s milestone Season X on PBS. From March 27 through March 29, the Bluegrass Underground TV taping from The Caverns in Pelham, Tennessee will treat music fans to performances by the finest in roots music and Americana.

This special 10th anniversary taping features cutting-edge singer-songwriters Cam, Yola, Courtney Marie Andrews, and Sam Lewis, and harmonious duos Mandolin Orange and three-time Grammy-nominated Milk Carton Kids, as well as legends like Asleep at the Wheel and Blind Boys of Alabama, and rising stars like bluegrass phenom Molly Tuttle, groove-driven jam band Goose, and psychedelic soul group Black Pumas, plus a surprise act to be announced in the coming weeks.

Jam-packed into one epic weekend of underground concerts, the performances will be captured for the 10th anniversary of the multiple Emmy Award-winning Bluegrass Underground series on PBS. To be in attendance at the 3-day live taping event is a music lover’s ultimate experience. The milestone Season X will premiere in the fall of 2020 on PBS stations nationwide.

“It’s amazing that Bluegrass Underground is the second-longest music series on American Public Television,” says Todd Mayo, Bluegrass Underground creator and co-producer. “And we look forward to the next 10 years of partnering with PBS in presenting the quality and diversity of roots music from one of the most iconic music destinations in the world, The Caverns in Grundy County, Tennessee.”

Three-Day & Single-Day Tickets go on sale on Friday, November 22 at 11 am CT at TheCaverns.com

Here’s the lineup for Bluegrass Underground Season X PBS TV Taping in The Caverns:

March 27:

Molly Tuttle: An artist on the leading edge of bluegrass music, steeped in tradition while driving the genre forward in today’s musical landscape.

Goose: This New England band’s mix of rock, funk, tropical grooves and extended jams will turn The Caverns into a subterranean dance party.

Cam: From a GRAMMY nomination to headlining the Ryman Auditorium, this multi-platinum country singer-songwriter is a force to be reckoned with.

Asleep at the Wheel: Ray Benson has now been leading a Western Swing band longer than Bob Wills, and he brings his iconic group to The Caverns for their 50th Anniversary Tour. Historic.

March 28:

Sam Lewis: Best-known for touring and collaborating with Chris Stapleton (who helped inaugurate Bluegrass Underground in 2008), this singer-songwriter is one of the defining talents of modern Americana.

Courtney Marie Andrews: Powerful vocals, passionate songs from one of today’s finest singer-songwriters.

The Milk Carton Kids: One of Americana’s best live acts, the duo of singer/guitarists Kenneth Pattengale and Joey Ryan combine close harmonies, wonderful original songs and humor.

TBA: Bluegrass Underground will be announcing the day’s fourth artist in coming weeks. Who doesn’t love a surprise?

March 29:

● Blind Boys of Alabama: A rousing Sunday in The Caverns with the five-time GRAMMY Award-winning gospel group that helped create the genre.

● Black Pumas: Austin, Texas is known for its dynamic live music scene. Black Pumas are the city’s leading soul/funk band. Enough said.

● Yola: Demolishing genre with her evocative voice and debut record Walk Through Fire, Yola establishes herself as the Queen of Country Soul from the very first note.

● Mandolin Orange: Intimate and emotional, the music of multi-instrumental duo Emily Frantz and songwriter Andrew Marlin draws you into their world with a sound that floats like a butterfly, but speaks to the heart.


While the national festival season remains in hibernation, Bluegrass Underground and The Caverns will welcome spring to the rolling hills of Tennessee with its unique, world-renowned combination of top artists, award-winning sound and lighting production, and breathtaking natural beauty, creating an underground festival experience like none other. Bluegrass Underground events feature a clean and comfortable, fan-friendly environment, complete with high-quality concessions and beverage offerings, including craft beers.

Tickets & travel packages and Stay-and-Cave hotel packages make for a perfect and easy getaway weekend. Packages include the best seats to all tapings, lodging accommodations for two, transportation to and from the venue, food, and commemorative merchandise. There is no better way to experience the Bluegrass Underground tapings than a Stay-and-Cave package. Packages and tickets will go on sale on Friday, November 22nd at 11am central at TheCaverns.com

Bluegrass Underground is underwritten on PBS by Tennessee Tourism and by Grundy County, Tennessee. The 12-episode series is presented to PBS nationally in partnership with WCTE in Cookeville, Tennessee, which serves the Upper Cumberland and Middle Tennessee.

WATCH: Nitty Gritty Dirt Band on ‘Bluegrass Underground’

PBS has launched their ninth season of Bluegrass Underground, a television series of roots music concerts from the cavernous heart of middle Tennessee. Since the show’s launch, dozens of famous acts in bluegrass, blues, Americana, and country music have graced the stage. Now filmed at The Caverns, an awe-inspiring cave venue in Pelham, Tennessee, the upcoming season will feature acts like Keb’ Mo’, Steve Earle, the Brothers Osborne, Josh Ritter, the Devil Makes Three, and Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, whose performance was the season opener. Watch as this timeless country band commands the cave on Bluegrass Underground.


Photo credit: Glen Rose

Bluegrass Underground: Brandi Carlile Rocks the Rock

For nearly a decade, Bluegrass Underground has invited artists and fans to experience the joy of music together … underground. The Caverns, located at the foot of Monteagle Mountain in Pelham, Tennessee, plays host to both the Emmy Award-winning PBS program and other shows from March to December.

Todd Mayo, owner of the Caverns and creator of Bluegrass Underground, walked into his first cave 10 years ago this month and thought it would be an ideal setting for live music. Though he wasn’t in the music business at all, six weeks later, Bluegrass Underground was born. Mayo booked the Steel Drivers, then fronted by Chris Stapleton, and secured an airing on WSM right before the Grand Ole Opry. And thus was born Bluegrass Underground.

When a guy came to interview Mayo about his vision of Bluegrass Underground eventually being a PBS show, the fellow — Todd Jarrell — just happened to work in that world. The two formed a production company and the rest is history, though still in the making. For a number of years, the shows took place in a different cave — one 333 feet underground in McMinnville, Tennessee. But having to load all the production gear in and out for every show was less than ideal.

Having a cave of their own with permanent light and sound installations, designed by award-winning cinematographer Allen Branton and Sound Image, respectively, allows much greater flexibility, in terms of the Caverns’ show season. But the new cave didn’t come plug-and-play.

“The first time I ever walked in here, standing on the stage, I could touch the ceiling,” Mayo explains. “That’s how much dirt came out of here. For six months, all we did was move dirt. It was like Michaelangelo with the statue of David. He said, ‘David was always in there. I just had to get the damn marble out of the way.’ Well, this cave was always here. I just had to get the dirt out of the way. When we started excavating, I didn’t know what was there. We just got all of the dirt out that had been washed in here over thousands and thousands of years and, all of a sudden, we were left with this perfect space for music.”



Bluegrass Underground sort of marries two of the greatest things about Tennessee: the musical culture and the natural beauty,” Mayo offers.


“Playing in the Caverns is one of the coolest things I’ve ever done. It’s like if somebody took Red Rocks, shrunk it down, and put it underground. It’s Red Rocks in a hole,” Tim Hanseroth [right] says. “It’s kind of humid, so everything’s a little silky and the guitars are cold because of the temperature. There’s steam coming out of your breath … it’s awesome! I was worried about things staying in tune before soundcheck, but nothing went out … surprisingly.”

The assistant director Cindy Brewer [left] and director Jim Yockey [right] both study the artist’s set list for a month, noting where the dynamic and instrument shifts take place within each song. During the live show, the AD cues the director and camera operators as to what is coming. The director and assistant positions are always split between male and female in order to avoid confusion over their voices.



“I was expecting a mystical experience,” Carlile notes. “What I wasn’t expecting was how beautiful the surrounding area was. It was how you’d expect it to be — in a cave with lots of natural reverb. It was really incredible, after 15 years of trying to re-create that sound in the studio and live digitally or with plates and chambers, to hear it occur naturally in the caverns.”



Mayo sums up the team’s mission statement: “Everything that we do is about the power of music to bring people together. You find a beautiful space that puts people in a different frame of mind and, when you’re down here, there’s no fourth wall. The artist will walk in here through the crowd and start playing. And it’s that sense of community, that communal aspect of music, that everybody feels when they go see music anywhere, it’s sort of amplified when you’re in a place like this.”


Photo credit: Kelly Amber Garcia