Tag: food

Traveler: Your Guide to New Orleans

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I’ve got a soft spot for New Orleans. No matter how many times I visit, I always find more to love. Tourism is the heart of New Orleans’ economy. In 2014, nearly 10 million people visited bringing in nearly $7 billion dollars. Everywhere you go, there is a celebration of New Orleans’ rich history — usually accompanied by lots of drinks and revelry. Needless to say, this town will show you a good time.

Getting There

For many travelers, getting to the destination is half the fun. Others prefer being there. If you are the latter, New Orleans is home to Louisiana’s largest airport. All major airlines fly to it. If you are the former, take the legendary Highway 61 — the Blues Highway. Be sure to stop in Clarksdale, Mississippi, which is home to juke joints and good eats. Also, take a photo at the crossroads where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul.

Accommodations


Hotel Saint Pierre. Photo credit: Numinosity (Gary J Wood) via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

The fantastic Hotel Saint Pierre is not one building, but several historic buildings occupying both sides of an entire block nestled between the Tremé and the French Quarter. The Garden District House is another good choice, if you’re looking for an affordable, uptown hostel in the Garden District, a gorgeous neighborhood that is home to New Orleans’ elite where mansions and former plantations intermingle with upscale restaurants and cemeteries. Best of all, it is near the streetcars for quick access to downtown and the French Quarter.

If money is not an issue, class it up at the Roosevelt Hotel, a centrally located picture of luxury which houses some of New Orleans’ best restaurants and classiest bars. Even if you do not stay here, swing by for a drink and check out the lobby. (More on the Roosevelt further down.)

The business district is another solid choice that is easy on the pocketbook and within walking distance to the French Quarter. There are some great stays, like the Whitney Hotel. It is a former bank, has good rates, and offers a unique New Orleans experience.

Food


Boiled crawfish. Photo credit: kittenfc via Foter.com / CC BY.

In New Orleans, it is not where you eat, but what you eat. You need to get some crawfish. The Original French Market Restaurant is a good place to start. I recommend the crawfish boat — it comes with potatoes, sausage, and corn boiled with two pounds of crawfish to create a flavor assault on your mouth.

You also have to get a po’ boy. NOLA Poboys is a good spot in the French Quarter, but there are hundreds of others to choose from.

You need to get a beignet and it might as well be at Café De Monde, which is a New Orleans landmark dating back to 1862. Today, Café Du Monde is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week — only closed on Christmas Day and during the occasional hurricane. All the world’s beignets are judged against theirs, as they set the benchmark.

You should also eat a muffuletta. Central Deli and Grocery originally concocted this beast of a sandwich that consists of olive salad, mortadella, salami, mozzarella, ham, and provolone on a Sicilian bun. It is intense. Central Deli and Grocery is still operating, so swing by their Decatur Street location. You may want to split the sandwich.

When you are ready for a healthy meal, head down by the Warehouse Arts District to eat at Seed. It is a vegan restaurant, but your tastebuds won’t know it. Seed offers a variety of fresh juices and smoothies to help with hangovers, and their menu is a healthy version of classic New Orleans dishes for a good change of pace after all the po’ boys and muffulettas.

Drink


Sazeracs. Photo credit: susanna bolle via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is no shortage of bars in New Orleans. You must walk down Bourbon Street — get a to-go beer and have a nice stroll. Stop at Marie Laveau’s Voodoo Shop for souvenirs, and try to avoid tripping over the passed out frat boys. There’s a lot of fun amidst the chaos.

The sazerac was the first cocktail invented by Antoine Amédée Peychaud in 1838. When he died in 1893, the Grunewald Hotel acquired the rights. In 2009, the former Grunewald reopened as the Roosevelt. Swing by their Sazerac Room and enjoy this New Orleans cocktail.

If you love dive bars, check out Molly’s in the French Quarter. They have a great jukebox and cheap drinks. You can get a beer and a shot for $5. For outdoor seating, go to Pat O’Brien’s next to the Preservation Hall. Perfect for warm Southern nights, the cobblestoned patio tables are nestled amongst fountains and flora, while pianos duel inside.

Coffee


Café’ au lait and beignets. Photo credit: kaige via Foter.com / CC BY-ND.

You are already going to Café Du Monde for beignets, so you might as well get some of their famous chicory coffee. Though chicory was a coffee substitute during the Civil War, today, the coffee and chicory are mixed to create a wonderful earthy flavor with a hint of chocolate.

Mister Gregory’s on Rampart Street is another great coffee shop. It is a French casual café in a great location — far enough off the beaten path that you can sit for awhile, but not so far that your feet will get sore walking to it.

Live Music


Preservation Hall. Photo credit: Phil Roeder via Foter.com / CC BY.

The French Quarter is still home to some great live music. Fritzel’s European Jazz Bar on Bourbon Street is fantastic. On Sunday afternoons, they have stride piano and, every night, they have top-notch, live jazz. If you need convincing, check out Fritzel’s New Orleans Jazz Band on Spotify. There is never a cover, although there is a drink minimum.

Preservation Hall’s history, alone, is worth the admission, and the music makes it one of the best deals in town. Get there about 30 minutes early, as the room is small and sells out.

Frenchman Street is also home to a bustling live music scene. The Maison has some great jazz and funk in a large room with room to dance. I highly recommend visiting d.b.a on Monday nights. When he’s not on tour, Luke Winslow-King plays every Monday at 7 p.m. His last album, Everlasting Arms, was one of my favorites from 2014. Right down the street is the Spotted Cat Music Club. It is home to some of New Orleans’ best traditional jazz, though most of the bands are younger and many have an Americana Twist.

Local Flavor


Jackson Square. Photo credit: christian.senger via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is more to New Orleans than just drinking and music. Take a riverboat cruise. You’re on the Mississippi River, after all. Enjoy it! There are three riverboat cruise companies. I recommend the Creole Queen. Their paddleboat is the nicest, their crew is the best, and the bar has live music. The cruise stops at Chalmette Battlefield, where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Most historians consider it the last great fight in the War of 1812.

I also recommend checking out a burlesque show by Fleur De Tease at One Eyed Jacks. One Eyed Jacks makes some of the best cocktails in town. The show is wonderful. Be warned, it sells out fast. Get your tickets early.

Designated by Congress as America’s official museum about World War II, the National World War II Museum is ranked by TripAdvisor as the #1 attraction in New Orleans. USA Today also named it the best place in the U.S. to learn military history, so it is a must-see for history buffs.

If you prefer serial killers and vampires to military history, take a haunted tour to learn about New Orleans’ seedy past while sipping hurricanes. It is informative, fun, and a great way to explore the town.

I also recommend visiting Congo Square at Armstrong Park. It is the birthplace of jazz. In the 18th century, enslaved African vendors gathered there. On Sundays, they sang, danced, and traded. The cultural expressions developed into the Mardis Gras Indian traditions, the Second Line, and, finally, New Orleans jazz. It is one of the most important squares in the United States. Armstrong Park is also home to an amazing sculpture garden.

On the way to Armstrong Park, check out the Washing Cycle. Located kitty-corner from the park, it formerly housed J & M Studios. Early rock pioneers like Little Richard, Fats Domino, and Dave Bartholomew first recorded here. J & M Studios was integral to the development of early rock ‘n’ roll, though it is now a laundromat.

Lede image: Bourbon Street. Photo credit: Eric K Gross via Foter.com / CC BY.

Ghanaian Peanut Butter Soup

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As I was preparing to sit down and salivate while writing about all the ways that I love Peanut Butter Soup, before I could even type a single word, my daddy called and told me what he, my mom, and aunt happened to be having for dinner at that very same moment. Take one guess what it was and your guess would be correct (unless you've got jokes).

The number of times that I have eaten this West African comfort food doesn't necessarily make me an expert on it, but it sure does mean that I'd better know how to make it. I've introduced many American friends to the concept that peanut butter does not have to be synonymous with jelly — nor does it have to be dressed up as a sweet treat. I tried to eat a peanut butter and jelly sandwich a few months back and my stomach hurt after just a few bites. Put me in front of a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup and I will look the other way. I think it may be because I've been spoiled by this savoury dish. I hate to tell you this — but if you make this recipe, you may be forever spoiled, too. Consider yourself warned.

This recipe originates somewhere in West Africa. Some say Gambia; others say Ghana. My version is influenced strongly by my home country of Ghana. In Ghana, we know this dish as "groundnut soup." The word "peanut" simply wasn't introduced to West Africa for quite some time (even though that's definitely the nut we're talking about here). You take the nut, you grind it, and you've got, well … "groundnut." Call us West Africans literal, I guess. It makes more sense than pea-nut. Amirite??

And what else do you have when you grind a nut? Well, after a while, nut butter, of course! That's the bold base of this rich, velvet-cloaked soup. A cup's worth of peanut butter (and nothing else) goes into the base of a cold pot that is then heated to medium-low heat. The peanut butter slowly begins to release its rich oil when gently heated, and that's actually all the oil you'll need in this soup's base. That small cup of peanut butter will continue to release its amber-coloured oil for the rest of the cooking process until your soup is speckled with shiny drops of jeweled oil along its surface. You'll feel like you're being naughty when you consume a spoonful of this rich goodness, but ,unlike animal fat, this oil is nutritious and full of fiber.

I'll leave you with that and dig into the linear steps.

Note: I want to thank the six people in the world who already have my Peanut Butter Soup recipe for allowing me to share it publicly now. Gratitude comes because these six people supported me in my Pledge Music Campaign last Fall when they donated funds to receive this as was one of Ruby's Secret Recipes. Thank you for keeping my recipe secret for these several months and thank you for allowing me to share it now. I won't give away any more of these for a long, long time.

INGREDIENTS
1 cup unsweetened creamy peanut butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2-3 medium cloves of garlic, chopped
1 Tbsp ginger, grated (or use ginger paste)
1 Tbsp ground coriander
1 Tbsp ground cumin
2 tsp paprika (any kind; even smoked)
1 quart chicken broth + 1 extra box (use bone broth for extra luxury)*
1 15-oz can of tomato sauce
1-1.5lbs of raw chicken thighs, cooked to pleasure and cut into bite-sized pieces**
Kosher salt to taste
Black pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
Crushed peanuts, scallions, and/or cilantro to garnish, if desired

*Use vegetable broth if preferred
**Substitutions for chicken may include sautéed shrimp, diced sweet potatoes, yams, or mushrooms

DIRECTIONS
Place peanut butter in the base of a deep pot first and then bring the pot to medium-low heat. Watch carefully so that it doesn't burn and lower heat as needed, stirring occasionally with a long wooden spoon. Allow the butter to loosen and release a lot of that good peanut oil into the pot. Be patient and let it happen. It may take 10 minutes, but it's the most important step.

Once it looks like your peanut butter has kind of perspired, add in the onion, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, and paprika, and stir to combine. Increase the heat to medium-high to release more peanut oil and cook ingredients in the rendered peanut oil and butter until onions are just beginning to soften. Bring the heat down if it looks like it wants to burn. If the peanut butter accidentally gets too dark in the pot, don't worry about it. Just lower the heat and continue on.

Pour in an entire quart of chicken broth in 1 cup increments, stirring each round in until well-combined and smooth. Then simmer and stir for 5 minutes. Add in the tomato sauce, salt to taste (added in pinches at a time so as to not over season), black pepper, and cayenne to taste. Stir, cover, and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure the base isn't burning. If the soup looks to be too thick, add more chicken stock in 1 cup increments until desired viscosity is achieved.

Add in cooked chicken or protein of choice at the end and give a good stir and 5-minute simmer.

I serve it with a scoop of rice, but some folks spoon it over steamed potatoes of all varieties or just eat it plain. Top with crushed peanuts, sliced scallions, and/or cilantro for extra love.

Serves 4

To make this dish extra sassy, I recommend listening to Memphis Minnie's box set. Well, at least I did, and I'm pretty sure it helped! I actually didn't know Memphis Minnie's music until Brittany Howard (Alabama Shakes) introduced her to me. In 2013, Brittany and I were brainstorming which songs to record for our Third Man Records Blue Series vinyl release. I brought a Rodriguez tune ("I Wonder") to the table and Brittany's contribution was Memphis Minnie's "When My Man Come Home." I was so inspired by Minnie's voice that I collected a library of her songs, and they haven't left my side since.

Call me presumptuous, but I have a feeling that Memphis Minnie would've liked this Peanut Butter Soup recipe just fine.

Singer/songwriter Ruby Amanfu loves cooking almost as much as she loves singing. Her latest release, Standing Still, was featured as part of the BGS Class of 2015. 

Sowing the Seeds with Love

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Every year in the garden, the see-saw tips from "I have no idea what I’m doing" to "I think I’m beginning to understand." And then, just as quickly, tips back to "I have no idea what I’m doing" as the next predicament arises. In any field of learning, it’s a cycle that takes you from being completely baffled to feeling like Einstein, and then back to being baffled all over again. So, I’m starting 2016 having learned so much in the two years since I started the garden, but knowing there is still so much to learn. The first lesson will start with seeds.

You know you are a gardener when you have more seed catalogs delivered than home and clothing put together! It’s that time of year when all the 2016 orders have been placed and some have started to be delivered. I’m growing almost everything I grew last year, along with a few additions to expand the garden. Baker Creek is my go-to again this year for seeds. Now that I’ve got the hang of growing most of the vegetables, I’ve added a few more varieties to some types so I can compare tastes. 

Last year, the parsnips, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts didn’t grow, but it will take a few years of failure for me to completely give up on anything, so we’ll see what 2016 will bring. I’ve cut back on lettuces, since their season here in Tennessee wasn’t that long. The arugula did really well, though, as did the spinach and kale, so they will be my main leafs this season. Another failure last year was my rhubarb. I love rhubarb, but it’s not that easy to grow in warmer climates. Still, I ordered some more to try again, along with some potatoes, from Grow Organic.

My biggest disappointment, by far, in 2015 — partly because it was the first thing I planted — was the death of the apple tree. It budded in the Spring and then died. Who knows why, for sure, but the city was working on a sewer line not too far from it and it ended up leaking. I’ve order the same multi-variety tree, along with another one, from Bay Laurel Nursery. Lastly, I ordered another gooseberry bush and some more early-season strawberries (since I managed to kill many of mine while transplanting them!) along with a variety of everbearers which will produce berries over a longer period of time. They came from Nourse Farms.

Here’s the complete list:

Baker Creek
Beets: Chioggia, Golden, Detroit
Broccoli: Waltham
Brussel Sprouts: Catskill
Cabbage: Perfection Drumhead Savoy
Carrots: Pusa Asita, Pusa Rudhira Red, Kuroda 8″ Long, Cosmic Purple, Amarillo, Danvers
Cauliflower: Erfurter
Chard: Five Colour Silver Beet RainbowKale: Blue Curled Scotch
Leek: Autumn Giant
Lettuce: Arugula, Aurura Mixed Orach, Butter King, Red Wing Mix
Onion: Bronze d’Amposta, Australian Brown, Zebrune (Shallot)
Parsnip: Hollow Crown
Pea: Oregon Sugar pod II (Snow Pea) , Wando,Lincoln, Kelvedon Wonder
Peppers: Corno Di Toro, Red Mini Bell, Red Belguim
Radish: Saxa 2, Purple Plum, Pusa Galabi
Spinach: Bloomsdale Long Standing
Tomatoes: Tappy, Principle Borghese, Sungold Select II
Herbs: Basil Genovese, Dark Purple Basil.

Grow Organic
Potatoes: Viking Purple, Desiree, Burbank Russett
Rhubarb: Victoria Cherry

Bay Laurel
Fruit Trees: Multi-Variety Apple, Fruit Salad (on Nemeguard)

Nourse Farm
Strawberries: Earlyglow, Seascape
Gooseberries: Hinnomaki Red

For the past two years, I’ve sown my seeds outdoors when the weather starts to warm a little. But this year, after discovering the wonderful Gary Pilarchik from the Rusted Garden on YouTube — and his video demonstrating how to make a simple indoor grow box — I wanted to try with some starts inside. (The follow up is also useful.) 

Another first for this year is seed soaking. For a seed to sprout, it needs to take in moisture, which it does from the soil. Soaking it first is like giving it a huge glass of water in one go, instead of the sips it takes from the earth, so germination is much faster. The general rule is, "Don’t soak anything for longer than 24 hours," but I discovered some seeds need much less and started to swell after 12. You want to avoid sprouting before planting as the seeds are very delicate once that starts to happen and are likely to be damaged if you pick them up. 

So I didn’t have to stick labels on my glasses, I lay them on a labeled paper towel. (See photo above.) The seed packets will tell you when is the best time to sow your seeds indoors. I could have been earlier with some of them, but next year I’ll do better, tipping that see-saw once again from "I have no idea what I’m doing" to "I think I’m beginning to understand."

For now though, it’s time to hurry up and wait.

Singer/songwriter Susan Enan spends any time not on the road or in the studio working in her East Nashville garden.

SHIFT LIST: Chef Amanda Cohen Reveals Her Dirt Candy Crushes

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Amanda Cohen may be a vegetarian chef, but she crafts the kind of comfort-focused, belly-orgasming food that has equal appeal for omnivores, stoners, and Saveur readers. At Dirt Candy, her award-winning restaurant on New York City’s Lower East Side, the visionary veghead serves dishes that proudly defy traditional meat-free cuisine, such as Korean fried broccoli — rightfully described on the menu as “crack in broccoli form” — and hot lava stone-charred Brussels sprouts accented with Yucatan style spices shoehorned into lettuce cups with toppings like smoked avocado and pickled jalapeño to create tasty tacos. (You can tackle some of her recipes by picking up her comic book cookbook. Yes, you read that correctly — Dirt Candy: A Cookbook: Flavor-Forward Food from the Upstart New York City Vegetarian Restaurant.) 

When it came time to create a soundtrack for her veg-centric eatery, Cohen had one goal. “I’ve wanted the restaurant to feel timeless and placeless,” she says. “You’re supposed to walk in and feel you’re on an island, in France or on a boat. You could be anywhere, anytime.”

To achieve that, the playlist is rich with globe-spanning world music, mostly of the happier, peppier variety. Cohen discovered many of the selections by listening to what New York cabbies were blasting, including tunes by Malian blues duo Amadou & Miriam and Argentinian ska band Los Fabulosos Cadillacs. The playlist is equally inspiring for the staff in the kitchen. “There are times when the restaurant is really crazy and the music makes us go a little faster,” she says.

Personally, Cohen’s tastes veer back to the '80s. Dolly Parton’s “Nine to Five” is a long-time favorite and she still holds a candle for some of the first singles she ever bought during the "Me Decade," including Cyndi Lauper’s “Girls Just Want to Have Fun,” Wham’s “Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go,” and Madonna’s “Like a Virgin.” (One of Cohen’s first concerts was the Material Girl world tour.)

Though she never had any muso crushes growing up — “No posters I kissed every day,” as she puts it — she has been overjoyed when some of her childhood favorites have dined at the restaurant. New Kids on the Block’s Jonathan Knight has been in. So has Boy George, who asked a clearly starstruck Cohen, “Do you want to take selfies together?” “Yes, yes I do,” she quickly replied.

 

A photo posted by Dirt Candy (@dirtcandynyc) on

Unlike some other chefs, Cohen has no secret musical past — perhaps fronting a riot grrl band or playing bass in a garage rock trio. “I’m the least musical person, though I love listening to it,” she says. “I have no rhythm and I cannot sing. Actually, I love to sing, but I’m terrible at it.”

However, at the end of a long shift at Dirt Candy, Cohen has no interest in belting out a song or listening to an album to unwind. She craves nothing but silence. “I want it to be as quiet as possible,” she says, “so I can go to bed and get ready for another day.”

Photo credit: Stephen Elledge

The Best Smoked Salmon on Planet Earth

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Smoking your own side of salmon is easy. It does not require much work and is a wonderful option, if you’re cooking for a few people. The last time I cooked one it was snowing… it was a wonderful afternoon!

I guarantee that this recipe will impress your guests, if you choose to use this as the centerpiece of a dinner party meal. I have done exactly that over the years, and my guests always leave raving about it. When I see them again out there in the world somewhere, it’s almost always the first thing they bring up when they see me: “Oh my God, that salmon … how the hell you do that? I can’t stop thinking about it!” It makes me smile. I love making memorable food, and this one is a no-brainer. The secret is to brine it overnight in two kinds of sugar and salt, then let it sit out on a tray the next day for a few hours and form a thin skin before you smoke it. The rest takes care of itself.

To me, store-bought smoked salmon just ain’t right. It’s wrapped in plastic, too expensive, and it’s always either dry or oily. This simple recipe will disabuse you of ever buying that stuff again!

INGREDIENTS
1 whole side of fresh salmon
1 cup of white sugar
1 cup of brown sugar
½ cup of salt
Tony’s Creole Seasoning
1 cup Mesquite Chips
1 cup Hickory Chips
Pam Non-Stick Olive Oil Spray
Charcoal
A Weber grill

DIRECTIONS
Take a whole side of fresh salmon and put it in container big enough to lay it down flat in, then pour the white sugar, brown sugar, and salt on top. Fill the container with water, and make sure the water covers the salmon. Stir it up a bit, cover it, and put it in the refrigerator overnight.

Take it out the next day a few hours before you’re going to smoke it, shake it off, sprinkle Tony’s Creole Seasoning on it (be careful, a little bit goes a long way!), and lay it flat on a big plate or a board. Toss the soaking sugar water, and let the salmon dry in the air for at least three hours.

When you’re ready to smoke it, pour coals on one side of the grill, light them, and wait until they glow. While waiting, take the mesquite and hickory chips, and soak them in water.

Tear off a big piece of aluminum foil and fold it so that it’s thick enough to hold the side of salmon. Spray it with Pam Non-Stick Olive Oil Spray and put the fish on the foil. Pour the soaked, drained hickory and mesquite chips on top of the coals, and let them get going good. Then place the fish and the foil on the grill, on opposite side of the coals. The idea is to SMOKE the fish, not barbecue it. Cover the grill tightly with the lid. The smoke will turn the fish a beautiful brown and, after a few minutes, you’ll need to slightly open a vent to let some air into the grill to keep the fire burning. The trick is to let enough air in to keep the smoke coming, but not too much, because you don’t want flames leaping up and burning the bottom of the fish. Again, the idea is to smoke the salmon, so keep it off the coals as best you can.

The salmon is cooked when you touch it and the flesh has tightened. You’ll know you’re there when the white liquid stops forming on top. It usually takes about 30-40 minutes. Don’t overcook it! It will continue to cook a bit after you take it off, so I always err on the side of caution.

Enjoy!

Mary Gauthier was a chef long before she ever wrote her first song. Her latest album, Trouble & Love, came out in 2014.

SHIFT LIST: Chef John Currence Shares the Soundtrack of his Rock ‘n’ Roll Life

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Long before John Currence won a James Beard Award for his forward-thinking Southern cooking at City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi, and earned the nickname the Big Bad Chef, he was pursuing a far more rock ‘n’ roll career. It all started when he attended a Beatles concert in New Orleans’ City Park in 1964. “Well, I was in utero, but technically I was there,” he clarifies. “I blame that for my lifelong fascination with music.”

As a kid, he devoured an impressively diverse swath of music –- from The White Album and Johnny’s Cash’s At San Quentin to Mozart and John Philip Sousa. When he fell hard for an artist, an album, or a song, he obsessed over it. “My brother and I listened to ‘Benny and the Jets’ over and over on a five-hour trip to the beach with my mom and dad,” he says. “The cassette player was smashed before the trip was over.”

Currence played drums in high school in New Orleans, but when he attended Hampden-Sydney College in central Virginia, he picked up the mic to front a band he and three friends dubbed Chapter Two. “It was the stupidest, most flaccid name,” he says. Their first gig was all covers, including Elvis Costello’s “Welcome to the Working Week,” “I’ll Be There” by the Spinners, the Beatles’ “Paperback Writer,” a punked-up version of Louis Armstrong’s “What a Wonderful World,” and the theme song from The Mary Tyler Moore Show. Friends urged them to write original material, which culminated in an indie record deal in the mid-'80s and endless touring. It turned into “six years of riding around the country in a broken down van and sleeping on pool tables,” says Currence.

The band relocated to Chapel Hill, North Carolina, where they wound up recording with legendary producer Mitch Easter, who had helmed R.E.M.’s earliest recordings. Easter’s relationship with the indie pioneers led to a surreal moment at one of Chapter Two’s own sessions. The band was at his house one day, trying to get a sound effect down on tape in his driveway, when a car pulled up. “We were in the middle of a take and we were like, ‘Who is this asshole?’” says Currence. “And then Mike Mills [of R.E.M.] gets out of the car, so our tune changed a bit.” The bassist stuck around and even helped with the session, creating a rhythm component for a song by hitting a baseball mitt with a ping-pong paddle.

Chapter Two ultimately released two now long-out-of-print albums, though copies sometimes pop up on eBay. During his time with the band, Currence worked a series of kitchen jobs. In the late '80s, his longtime friend, Larkin Selman, offered him a job as a sous chef at Gautreau’s, a restaurant he was opening back in their hometown of New Orleans. “I felt like, if I didn’t take it, I’d never leave Chapel Hill,” says Currence. From there, he helped opened Ralph Brennan’s Bacco before moving to Oxford, Mississippi, to make his own mark with City Grocery and its sister restaurants, including Big Bad Breakfast, Nacho Mama’s, and Bouré.

His musical past still echoes through his work. In his 2013 cookbook, Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey, he paired every recipe with a song. “I was always bothered by cookbooks that paired wine with the food,” he says. “Who is actually going to go out and find these esoteric wines to go along with cooking a dish? It seems stupid to me.”

When picking his Shift List playlist, he thought about the songs that hit him the hardest. “This is the soundtrack to my life, though it’s missing the Pixies and the Sex Pistols,” he says. “The best music is about honest life experience. It’s about heartbreak, vice, angst and agony. I’ve been through it all.”

Traveler: Your Guide to Taos

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Taos, New Mexico is 135 miles north of Albuquerque, and 6,967 feet above sea level. Bordered to the west by the Rio Grande and the Sangre de Cristo Mountain range to the east, Taos is blanketed by the widest sky, with the biggest sun, brightest moon and stars ever.

Getting to Taos is a commitment — especially the last 36 miles … on a two-lane road … winding up the canyon beside the river. Once you reach the crest of the canyon, the plateau, the Rio Grande Gorge, and the mountains form a vista that causes a catch in your breath. Is it any wonder that the place has been an inspiration to artists and writers since the valley was first inhabited?

Getting There

Taquitos at Mike's Mini-Mart

Most people fly into the Albuquerque Sunport and drive north on I25 connecting to US 285 through Española — a route known as the “Low Road.” This is the most direct route and will take you about two hours and 20 minutes without stops. But you will find places you want to stop, depending on the season. Velarde is the village right at the base of the canyon. A fruit growing community, Velarde is loaded with roadside fruit stands in the Fall. But, for a winter snack, stop at Mike’s Mini-Mart on the right hand side as you enter the village and grab a couple of taquitos — homemade fast food at its finest. Taquitos in hand, turn into the narrow canyon and head up to Taos. It’s impossible to get lost. The river is on your left and rock cliffs on your right. Just point north and go.

Lodging

A room at Casa Betita

More and more people are discovering that Taos is much more than a day trip from Santa Fe and are choosing to stay for more extended exploration. Perhaps the most special place to stay is Casa Gallina B & B just a bit southwest of Taos Plaza. As a certified introvert, I don’t generally opt for the traditional B&B experience given the demand for interaction and challenged privacy, but Casa Gallina is anything but traditional. Every room is different, private, and lovingly appointed. The attention to detail is unparalleled; Richard and Matt, the hosts, are warm and generous; the vistas are gorgeous; and the eggs — the gallina in Casa Gallina — are fresh. 

If you want to pretend you live in Taos, try Casa Betita, a fully restored 100-year-old adobe home under the shade of one of the oldest Willow trees in the valley. Casa Betita offers the finest elements of the 21st century with the charm, colors, textures, and décor of true New Mexico, including hand-plastered walls, Kiva fireplaces, vintage rugs, and the artwork of local artists. To stay right in the palm of art and literary history, stay at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House — it's more of a retreat-style hotel and a pleasant walk from Taos Plaza. 

Mornings in Taos

Fruit stands in town

Join the regulars for coffee and a delicious cardamom coffee cake at World Cup — a postage stamp-sized coffee bar on the corner of Taos Plaza. Perch on one of the few barstools or share a step and a bench outside to catch up on all the “news” or just ponder the sky. A little further north on the main drag, you will find two other local favorites for caffeine — the Coffee Spot and Elevation.

My favorite breakfast spot is Michael’s Kitchen Coffee Shop and Bakery, a family-owned gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere reminds me of many places from my childhood: Western, rustic, friendly, and just plain good. Everything is plentiful, old school, and made from scratch. My go-to dish is huevos rancheros with green chile and a sopaipilla with honey. Another favored spot is the Taos Diner. It's a diner through and through — nothing fancy, just simple good food.

Food/Comida

Cheese and bacon at Parcht

New Mexico is known for its cuisine, blending Native American and Hispanic influences and traditions. Taos holds high the traditions with an emphasis on red and green chile and locally sourced ingredients. Most of the restaurant offerings through town reflect the agricultural and farming nature of the community. El Taoseńo has some of the best northern New Mexico food in town.

Head to El Meze for a special night out. Everything is beautifully prepared, regionally sourced, and inspired. The chicharrones are a shared plate you won’t want to share. The grilled romaine salad could quickly become a craving, and the prepared-to-order mini-cardamom doughnuts served with a caramel chocolate sauce are divine. Try also Aceq and Sabroso — both a little farther north in the village of Arroyo Seco. The former has a lovely wine list, and the latter makes the best fresh-squeezed lime margaritas.

Music and Drink

The Taos Inn

Speaking of drink … Taos does drinking establishments up right, and most of them present live music. Every day of the week, there are several live music offerings to choose from — be it local bands, up-and-coming “touring in the van” bands, or known headliners. There are brewpubs aplenty — Taos Ale House, Eske’s Brew Pub, and the Taos Mesa Brewery, which is also one of the main music venues in town with an affiliated radio station that has a fantastic Juke Joint Series for seven bucks.

Madisen Ward and Mama Bear recently played a lively show at the KTAOS Solar Center. The Adobe Bar at the Taos Inn, otherwise known as the living room of Taos, has live music every night of the week, every day of the year. In recent months, Lucinda Williams, Mary Gauthier, Tinariwan, and Los Lobos have all come through town. Suffice it to say, music in Taos is plentiful and eclectic. By far, my favorite discovery is the recently opened Parcht Bottleshop + Bites, an intimate wine bar hidden away on the east side of Taos Plaza. The proprietors, Nicolette and Hunter, have created a convivial atmosphere punctuated by a wonderful selection of wines by the glass and the bottle, a cheese named Purple Haze, and spicy caramelized bacon — the perfect adult clubhouse.

Flavorfull!

Ski Taos

There is so much more to Taos than food and drink. The natural beauty of the place means that outdoor activities are paramount and determined by the season — world class skiing at Taos Ski Valley in the Winter; Class 3 rapids through the Taos Box in the Spring; hiking, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and camping in the Summer. Taos is rather untamed and, as such, has attracted the wild, the eccentric, and the unconventional … musicians, artists, writers, freethinkers, and soapbox preachers.

Favorite Discoveries

The Paseo — a street festival of installation, performance and projection art. 

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance

Taos Pueblo — a World Heritage site, continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years.

Rio Grande Del Norte Monument and the Gorge Bridge

Two Graces Gallery

HorseFeathers

The Harwood Museum — most especially for the Agnes Martin Gallery where you can take a yoga class on Wednesday mornings.

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

Fiestas de Taos

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

The Bavarian — the sun-soaked deck is, by far, my favorite resting spot while skiing with stunning scenery at the base of Kachina Peak, best enjoyed with a mug of hot mulled wine.

All photos by Melissa Howden

Traveler: Your Guide to Glasgow

Posted on by Editor

It may not be Scotland's capital city, but Glasgow — just a half-hour from well-heeled Edinburgh — offers arguably the most vibrant and exciting city life north of the border. From the busy footfall of Sauciehall Street to the beautiful greenery of the West End, from Merchant City to Southside, this manifestly walkable city contains richly diverse neighbourhoods and some of the most fun-loving people you'll meet in the UK.

Getting There

You can fly direct to Glasgow from the east coast, but you’d be robbing yourself of one of the prettiest railway journeys that Britain has to offer. The train from London speeds you through the length of England, its lovely hills and green pastures rolling past your window for a little over four hours. The scenery is particularly breathtaking once you pass Preston and enter the Lake District, whose beauty inspired a generation of romantic poets from William Wordsworth to Robert Southey.

Lodging

[A deluxe room at Blythswood Square. Photo courtesy of BSG.]

If you’ve cash to splash, Blythswood Square is a smart, luxurious hotel complete with spa — a riot of modern décor that sits beautifully within a classic historic town house. It’s even got its own private cinema. Cheaper, but no less hip, is Hotel Indigo, a boutique hotel that’s centrally located … and has an extremely well-stocked minibar.

Coffee

[It's always cuppa time in the UK. Photo courtesy of Willow Tea Rooms.]

There’s a thriving coffee scene in Glasgow, not least because the city has always had a large Italian population. Fratelli Sarti is one of the best-loved authentic Italian restaurants in the city, and you can pop in for a coffee or its famous homemade gelato. Tinderbox (189 Byres Rd, G12 8TS) is the go-to for those who like their stuff strong and black (and has been operating far longer than its hipster competitors). But this is still the UK, so if you prefer a real British drink, head to the Willow Tea Rooms for a cuppa. It’s elegantly designed by art nouveau’s chief architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Food

[A plate of goodness at Café Zique. Photo courtesy of Café Zique.]

Glasgow is the city that first gave the world the Deep Fried Mars Bar, and its cuisine has been somewhat maligned, as a result. But there are plenty of wonderful places to eat, not least in the West End, Glasgow’s leafy and good-living district. Top of the class is the Ubiquitous Chip on picture-postcard Ashton Lane and its sister restaurant Stravaigin, both of which champion Scottish cooking. Close by is Cafézique, a more casual but no less delicious proposition, which serves a wonderfully hearty breakfast. Humbler still, and operating a BYO policy for those on a budget, is the Wee Curry Shop, one of the best Indian restaurants in Scotland.

Drink

[A wee dram of whiskey. Photo credit: IntangibleArts via Foter.com / CC BY.]

You can’t visit Scotland without tasting a wee dram of its namesake liquor. The Pot Still holds a collection of some of the finest Scotch whiskies you can drink, and its bar is as warm and inviting as what’s in the bottle. If you want a more vibrant, modern take on Glasgow drinking, head to Nice’N’Sleazy, the city’s most infamous dive bar, where you can drink beer — and dance — til late into the night.

Shopping

[The Style Mile. Photo credit: marsupium photography via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Style Mile is aptly named. You can browse this shoppers’ heaven — a pedestrianized area which wends through the centre of town along Argyle, Buchanan, and Sauchiehall Streets — for hours. But, if you want something a bit less Main Street, head to the Merchant City district, where its independent boutiques, designer couture, retro retailers, and thrift stores offer a lively and quirky alternative.

Music Venues

http://www.monocafebar.com/[Music and meals at Mono. Photo courtesy of Mono Café Bar.]

Sure, Edinburgh can claim a world-renowned festival. But Glasgow has always been Scotland’s true music capital, where the sound goes on late into the night in gritty dive bars and loud, heaving nightclubs. The city is still mourning the recent closure of its best-loved venue — and artistic hub — the Arches. But the gigs go on, in up-and-coming venues like Mono — a space favouring more experimental sounds — and established indie houses like Stereo, where local bands find a truly passionate audience. City Halls and the Fruitmarket play host to a welter of alternative music, and Barrowland is a former ballroom-turned-Glasgow’s favourite nightclub. For stadium rock, head for the Hydro.

Local Flavor

[The Kelvingrove Museum. Photo credit: dun_deagh via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Glasgow is the British city for modern art. From the Centre for Contemporary Art to the Mackintosh designed Glasgow School of Art, from the Hunterian Gallery to Kelvingrove, the city is at the cutting edge of art and design, and the evidence is all around. For something truly unique, head to the Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre, where mechanical sculptures perform extraordinary choreography. Soccer is also a big deal in this city — and a historical source of feud between its Protestant and Catholic communities, represented by the Rangers and Celtic teams, respectively.

Lede photo credit: brownrobert73 via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Traveler: Your Guide to Savannah

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Located in the middle of the Lower Coastal Plains and salt marshes of Southeast Georgia, Savannah — founded in 1733 — is one the oldest cities in the American South. With its rich colonial history, diverse Southern architecture, and growing reputation as a regional haven for arts and culture, Savannah has long been a popular tourist destination. Affordable, nonstop flights that clock in at under two hours from New York make for the perfect trip from the Northeast. 

Lodging

There are countless hotels in the touristy, downtown historic district. If you’re looking for more local flavor, try staying at any of the countless bed and breakfasts or Airbnbs in more residential neighborhoods for roughly the same price as most of the mid-level hotels. Look for a rental in the Starland District, the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood located south of Forsyth Park and the historic district.

Coffee

[Coffee at the Foxy Loxy Café. Photo courtesy of Foxy Loxy]

As a tea drinker, I deferred to my girlfriend on the matter of coffee during our four days in Savannah. She says the best coffee she had in town, bar none, was at the Foxy Loxy, the Tex-Mex-inspired café that takes up an entire two-story house in the Starland district. Every Tuesday night, Foxy Loxy hosts an evening of acoustic music from local songwriters and artists. The Coffee Fox, located downtown on Congress Street, is the shop’s flagship location. Also recommended: Shop the Fox, the sibling gift shop next door.

Food

[Southern cooking, family-style. Photo courtesy of Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room]

It may be touristy, but lining up at 10 in the morning for the 11 am opening at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is the best decision you can make in Savannah. For $20, you’ll get seated at a large table with fellow diners where you share over a dozen dishes — family-style — of the best Southern cooking you’ve ever tasted … sweet tea included, of course.

Goose Feathers Café is another solid, cheap option for breakfast. The Bird’s Nest — which features two poached eggs, salsa, and cheese over a bed of grits — was particularly great. The best lunch we had in town was easily Zunzi’s, a take-out sandwich spot that sells gigantic hot sandwiches with a combination of South African, Swiss, Italian, and Dutch cooking. The Chicken Conquistador sandwich was massive, delicious, and well worth the $12.

Drink

[The sample pack. Photo courtesy of Moon River Brewing Company]

Savannah is a serious beer-drinking town, with several craft beer bars conveniently located downtown, from Savannah Taphouse to Moon River Brewing Company. With drinking on the street legal in the city’s historic district, the to-go cups that any bar or restaurant offers is surely an added bonus. Another newer restaurant, the Distillery Ale House, is also worth a visit with an excellent beer selection and first-rate chicken wings.

One of the stranger, most enjoyable drinking experiences in Savannah can be found at the Savannah Bee Company, which offers mead tastings for just $5. The company offers various delicious tastings from many of the relatively few meaderies that produce the fermented honey-based drink throughout the United States.

Located right in the heart of downtown and recommended by a local, HangFire was the most charming bar we went to in Savannah. It’s a hangout for musicians and young folks from all over town, and the bar regularly hosts a diverse array of local bands and singer/songwriters. If you’re looking for a fun night, I highly recommend ordering a couple of Scorpion Teas, one of the bar’s specialties. With an expiring lease fast approaching, the bar is currently scouting new locations to open in somewhere else in town, so make sure you look up HangFire, wherever it soon may be, next time you’re in town.

Arts and Culture

[Photo courtesy of the Jinx 912]

With the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) located right downtown, Savannah has long been a hotbed of arts, music, and culture. “Savannah has always been a creative enclave,” writes local music writer Bill Dawers in a recent issue of Oxford American. “Today, it’s common to see metalheads at country shows or punks supporting hip-hop.” From venues like the Wormhole to HangFire, there are more clubs and stages than ever for local musicians. For bigger shows, the Johnny Mercer Theatre and the Lucas Theatre host touring acts like Jackson Browne and Jason Isbell.

Much of the city’s local music scene revolves around the Jinx, the downtown rock room that has been operating since 2003. The divey, intimate club is the most important gig in town for local bands, as well as a regular stop for countless national touring bands. The club has a storied history with the town’s local metal scene, but its bookings are wide-ranging and cover a number of styles and genres.

For books and records, your best bets are the Book Lady, which offers a great mix of new and used books (and sports a solid music section, to boot), and Graveface Records, located just a block from the Wormhole. Graveface is run by Ryan Graveface of Black Moth Super Rainbow and the Savannah-based Dreamend. Graveface also runs the small, independent record label, Graveface Records, which puts out a great array of indie releases.

Local Flavor

[Photo courtesy of the Flannery O'Connor Childhood Home]

The mix of history, architecture, and arts give Savannah a unique feel unlike any other small Southern city I’ve ever been to. Some of the most popular tourist attractions are the many ghost tours throughout town, which is often called one of America’s most-haunted cities. Like many historical destinations throughout the South, Savannah effectively whitewashes — both literally and figuratively — a large portion of its long history, and our biggest regret on the trip was not being able to take the city’s walking tour with Johnnie Brown, a longtime Savannah native who offers a historical walking tour focused on the African-American history that the city does not readily present to the general tourist.

Otherwise, the city is highly walkable, so the best way to absorb the city is to spend a couple of days wandering among its countless squares, parks, and cemeteries. If you’re a literary nerd, taking the 20-minute tour through the Flannery O’Connor Childhood Home, a restored 1920s house that the Georgia writer lived in until she was 13, is a must. Another essential stop is the SCAD Museum of Art. Expanded and renovated in 2011, the museum is a gorgeous, expansive, world-class art museum featuring everything from photography to furniture design, and hosts an impressive rotating exhibit from the Walter O. Evans Collection of African-American art.

Lede photo credit: jeffgunn via Foter.com / CC BY

Spotlight: Beth Kirby, Local Milk

Posted on by Editor

If you're an avid Instagrammer, there's a good chance you're familiar with the name Beth Kirby, the mastermind behind the blog Local Milk. Billed as "a cast iron skillet and a camera," Local Milk is a digital ode to the beauty of food — one that's grown so popular that, in 2014, Saveur honored Kirby's project with both Readers' Choice and Editors' Choice Awards for Best Food Photography Blog. 

"Living is a glossy, unctuous thing, and cooking is a divine, ancient art," Kirby explains on her site. "It is the elevation of biological necessity. It is the beating heart. It is an empire built on grain and cacao. It is selenium and potassium. It is kale and cauliflower. It is sustenance. It is actually the art of living."

Below, we've rounded up a few of our favorite Local Milk recipes and Instagram shots. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

This is what your Thanksgiving table is going to look like, right?

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Vegetable and cheese pot pie, recipe here. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Granola with Lindt chocolate, recipe here. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

A table setting for an Anthropologie shoot. 

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

We want to go to there.

 

A photo posted by Beth Kirby (@local_milk) on

Pan fried polenta with wild mushroom ragu, recipe here.