Tag: Travel

Root 66: The Lawsuits’ Roadside Favorites

Posted on by Amy Reitnouer

Name: The Lawsuits
Hometown: Philadelphia, PA
Latest Project: Moon Son

Pizza: Two Boots Pizza in New York City or Nashville, Tennessee

Music Shop: Bernunzio's Music in Rochester, New York — all the vintage guitars there were so well taken care of and set up

Thrift Store: Vivant Vintage in Allston, Massachusetts

 

Bri & Josh possibly on the set of jumanji

A photo posted by The Lawsuits (@thelawsuits) on

Tacos: Taco Joint in Chicago, Illinois, had so many options

Hotel: Sonesta ES Suites in Cleveland, Ohio — fireplace, stairs, full kitchen

Hotel 2: Kimpton Hotel in Chicago, Illinois with rooftop and fancy everything

Fish and Chips and Music Venue: The Pressroom in Portsmouth, New Hampshire

 

#tbt to #XPNfest. Collaborating again tonight with @wxpnfm & our bud @johnvettese! #MoonSon

A photo posted by The Lawsuits (@thelawsuits) on

Highway Stretch: Rt 9 in Delaware — $25 cartons of Kamels as far as the eye can see

Music Festival: Xponential Music Festival

Back Van Bench Seat: Downloaded Movies + Headphones = Quick Ride

 

Philly does @sofarsoundsrochester right now. @formerbelle #regram @sofarphilly #sofarphilly #SofarROC

A photo posted by The Lawsuits (@thelawsuits) on

Coffee Shop: Little Amps Coffee Roasters in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania

Venue Accommodations: Hideaway Saloon in Louisville, Kentucky. Some of the nicest accommodations we’ve been offered thus far — full apartment with ample beds, kitchen, bathroom, smoking window.

Driving Album: T-Rex, Electric Warrior

Traveler: Your Guide to Napa Valley

Posted on by Editor

Point yourself in any direction from the San Francisco Bay Area and you will find a weekend getaway to fulfill every desire. I’ve gotten into a bit of a regular routine which involves heading north through the Napa Valley to take in the waters in Calistoga with a few select stops in the valley going up and coming back. The basics include good food, plentiful wine, the valley of the moon, and the waters.

My driving music for this trip? A CD of the five songs from NPR’s First Listen of Brandy Clark’s new album, Big Day in a Small Town with “Love Can Go to Hell” on repeat and the sunroof open.

Getting There and Where to Stop on the Way Up

From downtown Oakland to Calistoga, the distance is about 68 miles. Driving time depends how many stops you make once in the valley on CA-29 which is full of strip malls until you get through Napa. Eventually, the road narrows to two lanes as you enter the valley.

My first stop is always Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery in Yountville for a mid-morning coffee and sweet. Thomas Keller is known for the French Laundry, Ad Hoc, Per se, and the Bouchon collection of restaurants and bakeries, but as a sometime pastry chef, Bouchon Bakery is my perfect storm. Everything is just exquisitely beautiful and elegant in its simplicity. Honestly, I like to look more than taste. Visiting Bouchon is my ritualistic entrance to the valley.

Chocolate tarts at Bouchon Bakery.

In terms of wine, I allow for exploration and stop at new places when I am headed north. I like to just go where the winds take me. But if there are places you have your heart set on stopping to taste, it is best to call ahead as some wineries taste by reservation only.

Next stop on the Food & Wine Highway is the historic Oakville Grocery, which has been in operation since 1881, as evidenced by its rustic charm brought into the 21st century after a recent restoration without cliché. This is my picnic stop — perfect for picking up sandwiches, cheeses, and other specialties to go with the wine you will soon taste and purchase at a newly discovered winery for your picnic along the way.

If picnics just aren’t your thing, another option for lunch is farther up the road at Gott’s on Main Street in St. Helena — a locally sourced, roadside burger joint with picnic tables under the trees and a fair wine and beer list or $5 corkage when you bring your own bottle.

Shopping

Main Street in St. Helena is perfect for window shopping or shopping shopping, depending on your pleasure. Park and walk up one side of the street and down the other.

Accommodations

Napa Valley is awash with hotels, B&Bs, and Airbnbs. My favorite place to stay is at Indian Springs in Calistoga in one of the original cottages. This place has recently undergone a big facelift with new buildings added to the old, an “adult” pool added to the original geyser-fed pool built in 1913, new landscaping, and a new restaurant. My whole goal in Napa Valley is to take to the waters. Even a day spent floating in the Olympic-sized pool (temp 92-102 degrees) has the effect of a vacation. My preferred weekend involves two nights and a full day at Indian Springs. Sleeping in, a big pile of catch-up magazines and a good book, a good hat and naps on the lounge chair when I am not floating, and getting a spa treatment (volcanic ash mud bath) or two in the spa. I just love this place.

The healing waters at Indian Springs.

Another, less expensive option is the El Bonita Motel in St. Helena. The El Bonita is a classic, retro chic motel replete with a classic neon motel sign, a pet-friendly policy, a pool, jacuzzi, and nice grounds. The best deal in the valley.

Food

It is hard to find a bad meal in Napa Valley. The chefs in the valley are interested in working with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. I have my favorites, and one is Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena. Created by Cindy Pawlcyn — the James Beard Award-winning cookbook author, chef-owner of Napa Valley’s Mustards Grill, and numerous restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area — Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen is housed in a building built in the 1800s which was a bordello in the '20s. The menu meets a certain home cooking jones with a modern flair in a friendly warm environment. A creature of habit, I always start with the artichoke with black garlic and tarragon aioli. My traveling companions usually go for oysters or mussels and then we go from there. They have a monthly feature called Cindy’s Supper Club which focuses on whole beast cooking from local farmers and growers. This month is the month of fried chicken. Be still my heart: Exploring fried chicken recipes from around the world for an entire month.

Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen.

If you are in the mood for a different and unique culinary experience, I suggest going to the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone. The CIA has a number of special events and dining options on a spectacular terrace with vineyard views. Your chefs are culinary students at the Institute, and your dining pleasure is a crucial portion of their culinary education.

A trip to Calistoga is never complete without breakfast at Sarafornia on Lincoln Avenue, the main street of Calistoga. You can walk the couple of blocks from Indian Springs. Sarafornia is an old-school diner. Considered the best breakfast in Napa Valley, the menu includes home-made corned beef hash, Belgian waffles, big omelets, and plentiful servings. Classic.

Drink

I do have a couple of favorite wine stops which I try to save for my last day in the valley — my return home day which I do in an extremely relaxed and leisurely fashion having reached a peak state of mellow from my time in the healing waters.

From Calistoga, start the return trip south on the Silverado Trail.

Robert Sinskey Vineyards does an “unscheduled flight” meaning, on a first come, first served basis, you can stop in and taste wine. Using organic grapes grown in the Carneros region, two of their offerings have always been favorites: Their pink is a Vin Gris of pinot noir and the pinot blanc, which only comes in a half-bottle, always bring on the happy. I’ve shared both of these bottles on numerous occasions with dear friends which probably goes a long way toward my warm fuzzy about these wines.

Tasting wines at Brown Estate.

Brown Estate is what one might call a well-known secret, especially among zinfandel aficionados, the gem you want to keep all to yourself at the same time as you want to share it with the world. Visiting this winery is by appointment only and it is well-worth planning ahead — it’s that special. Brown Estate is a family-owned winery not really in the valley but above it. Reading their tasting notes is like reading poetry. To drink their wine is to take in beauty. Everything they do is gorgeous — the wines, the environment, the hospitality. Once, at a special luncheon tasting, one guy took his first taste and was so overcome he blurted out for all to hear, “Oh my God. These guys aren’t fucking around!"

Zinfandel isn’t all they do. The winemaker, David Brown, has over the years created a perfect summer sauvignon blanc and a lovely pink. They have a new white I have yet to try, but it is sure to become a regular on my Summer table. This Fall will mark their 20th vintage. Don’t miss Chaos Theory, Brown Recluse, Mickey’s Block, and the Big Damn Cab. Did I mention they are all poets at Brown Estate?

After my Brown Estate visit, I come down the hill and make my last stop at Rutherford Grill for a lite dinner on their patio before heading home — a grilled artichoke and iron skillet corn bread, for example. On a warm Summer day, it just feels light years from the madding crowd, like Italy maybe, but by this point, only 30-some miles from home.

Music

If you really want to stretch things out, plan your weekend to include a stop at the Uptown Theatre for a show and drive home after. I’ve done just this on numerous occasions with Rosanne Cash, Brandi Carlile, and Lyle Lovett. The Uptown is a classic Art Deco movie house recreated into a beautiful, intimate live performance venue.

Lede photo credit: Urban_Integration via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Traveler: Your Guide to Joshua Tree

Posted on by Editor

Of all the stories that populate the mythology of American roots music, few weave a tighter thread than the connection of Gram Parsons to Joshua Tree, California. For Parsons, the high desert was an escape from the craziness of Los Angeles and a chance to hang out with his friends. In 1969, he brought Keith Richards here with little more than Pendleton blankets and acoustic Gibsons. It was the year of “Honky Tonk Women,” Parsons’ undeniable country influence on the Rolling Stones during their creative apex. Four years later — on September 19, 1973 — Parsons would be clinically dead of a drug overdose at the Joshua Tree Inn and the bond between musician and place cemented into legend. He was 26 years old.

For decades, far-out eccentrics, war veteran homesteaders, and creative artists have all found inspiration in the widescreen landscapes and cultural freedom that the California desert provides. In its wildness, time becomes abstract — a slower way of life that’s fiercely protected by the locals. The food is decent, the shopping becomes a treasure hunt, and the live music can be transformative. But the spiritual heart of this place — its calm emotional anchor — lies in the vistas of Joshua Tree National Park.

In our age of digital hyper-connectivity, the park is one of the few remaining locations in the United States where, in just a couple of miles, all of your devices go silent as the grid dissolves. This rare, involuntary disconnection might help explain the park’s explosive popularity (a record two million visited in 2015), a salve to the debilitating nature deficit and frenetic pace many urbanites experience daily.

It’s a place where the messages you receive are not about work, gossip, or a change in plans, but something bigger and soul evolving. While under the canopy of a million stars or taking in the beautiful surrealism of ancient Joshua trees, you’re forced to remember how small you really are, how fragile the balance of ecology truly is, and how lucky you are to be here — now, in the moment — as a witness to its magic.

Getting There

There are four airports to choose from, and deciding which to use is a balance of cost versus convenience. Traditionally, the most affordable option is to fly into Las Vegas’s McCarren International (LAS) and drive three-and-a-half hours south on US-95. Fill the tank, bring some water, and take it slow. Cell phone service is spotty for most of the barren drive and there are few places to stop. Los Angeles International (LAX) is another option, with the drive east from the airport to Joshua Tree at approximately two-and-a-half to three hours (depending on traffic). LA/Ontario International (ONT) is located about an hour-and-a-half west and is an easy drive on I-10 to Route 62. Finally, the most convenient airport (and usually the most expensive to fly into) is Palm Springs International (PSP). From there, it's a 50-minute drive on Route 62 “up the hill,” as the locals say.

The long ribbon of California State Route 62 (aka Twentynine Palms Highway) connects five adjacent communities where the action is: Morongo Valley, Yucca Valley, Joshua Tree, Twentynine Palms, and the unincorporated community of Wonder Valley.

Lodging

As of this writing, there are over 300 places to rent on Airbnb in Joshua Tree alone, including small rustic cabins; large, amenity-rich homes; and everything in-between. For the best nighttime stargazing, rent a converted homestead in Wonder Valley, a rural outpost east of Twentynine Palms. If you want to commune with the ghost of Gram, book the room he OD’d in (room #8) at the Joshua Tree Inn. Or you can party with the truckers and the kickers and the cowboy angels at Pioneertown Hotel.

Food, Booze, and Live Music

There is currently no venue in the area specifically devoted to live music, but the restaurants and bars here more than fill the void, attracting both underground up-and-comers and established acts. Pappy and Harriet’s in Pioneertown is a must-visit, with regular live music, great food, and a stocked bar. It’s busy, so make reservations for dinner and check the calendar before you head up there. (They are typically closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) Their annual Desert Stars Festival always boasts a mindboggling roster of talent.

To fuel up for hikes in the park, Crossroads Café in downtown Joshua Tree is a good spot for breakfast or a sandwich. (Their seitan Hell Burger rocks!) Joshua Tree Coffee Company provides wicked strong coffee, served by friendly staff. Pie for the People offers up New York-style pizza by the pie or the slice. Joshua Tree Saloon hosts occasional music, decent pub grub, and craft beer on tap. The Palms Restaurant out in Wonder Valley has a dark, musty bar and hosts trippy indoor/outdoor concerts. If you’re looking for more adventurous menus, La Copine and 29 Palms Inn offer “finer dining” — for lack of a better phrase — beyond typical burgers and Mexican food.

Attractions

Tourist traffic is divided into two distinct seasons here, “high” and “low.” High season is busiest during the most temperate months of March-May and September-November, and low season constitutes the hot summer months and the cold-ish winters. But with the right preparation and smart precautions, any time of the year is good to visit. (Note that some businesses scale back or shut down operations in July and August.)

Plan at least one full day of hiking and sightseeing in Joshua Tree National Park. Camping is allowed in the park — there are nine campgrounds in all — and reservations must be made in advance on a first-come, first-served basis. Seven-day vehicle permits can be purchased at time of visit. Try to catch the Key’s Ranch tour. Running February through mid-May, it's an incredible story of ingenuity, perseverance, and cold-blooded murder.

 

To visit the site of Gram Parsons’ bizarre “cremation” in Joshua Tree National Park, visit Cap Rock Nature Trail. High Desert Test Sites / A-Z West is a unique arts organization that holds tours on its 50-acre site focusing on sustainable living and innovative design. Get a sound bath at George Van Tassel’s space-age invention the Integratron and don’t miss a chance to experience Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum, a major socio-political exhibit created entirely out of repurposed materials.

Shopping

For a taste of California desert weirdness, visit Sky Village Swap Meet, a sprawling outdoor flea market open every weekend. Ranch and Camp Mercantile boasts a quirky mix of vintage goods and local art. The Hoof & the Horn boutique specializes in rootsy Americana clothing, vintage t-shirts, and accessories. (They have a stoner rock selection on vinyl, too.) Dig through Tamma’s Magic Mercantile for lots of cool antiques. You can buy your very own baby Joshua tree at Cactus Mart and meet Butch and Sundance, two of the friendliest kitties in Morongo Valley. For bibliophiles, the Cactus Wren bookstore is a great place to search for old desert homesteader histories.

Photo credit: Melissa Grisi

3×3: Dead Winter Carpenters on Kentucky Cabins, Diverse Cultures, and the Perfection of Neil Young

Posted on by Editor

Artist: Jenni Charles (of Dead Winter Carpenters)
Hometown: Tahoe City, CA
Latest Album: Washoe
Rejected Band Names: Sandpaper Mitten

 

Thank you Reno Airport for being kind to @dainesly #freerubdowns #feelinit #firstflytour #dwctour

A photo posted by Dead Winter Carpenters (@deadwintercarpenters) on

If you had to live the life of a character in a song, which song would you choose?
“My Rose of Old Kentucky” by Bill Monroe. It’s the perfect love song, in the perfect setting — a cabin on the hill somewhere in the hills of gorgeous Kentucky and forever love! Doesn’t everyone want that?

Where would you most like to live or visit that you haven't yet?
I’ve traveled almost every bit of the U.S. with Dead Winter Carpenters and it has been one of the most rewarding experiences in my life. Going from places like Montana to New Orleans really gives you a special insight into the diverse cultures, lifestyles, and landscapes that this country has to offer. The more I travel, the more I fall in love with new areas. Two of my favorites that I could see living in would be the Blue Ridge Mountains or New England. The next place I want to visit is India.

What was the last thing that made you really mad?
I can’t remember! Forget and move on!

 

Almost to @terrapinxroads after a beautiful drive up #highway1 #california #bayarea #californiacoast

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What's the best concert you've ever attended?
Neil Young with Promise of the Real at the Greek Theatre in Berkeley, California. It was my first show at that venue and my second time seeing Neil Young. The other time was in Montreal, Quebec, and that was holding the “all time” before this one.

What was your favorite grade in school?
First Grade! Mrs. Bronzini was the absolute best teacher ever.

What are you reading right now?
Massacre on the Merrimack. I’m related to Hannah Duston, and this book is about her story, and I figured I should probably read up on my ancestor’s history.

Whiskey, water, or wine?
Whiskey

North or South?
North Lake Tahoe!

Pizza or tacos?
Tacos. Hot sauce. Yum.

A Minute in London with Josienne Clarke & Ben Walker

Posted on by Editor

Welcome to "A Minute In …" — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, London duo Josienne Clarke and Ben Walker take us on a tour of their favorite listening rooms, coffee shops, and parks.

Tintico

This is Tintico, a coffee shop in Finchley, north London, near Ben's studio. We meet here before most rehearsals for a caffeine boost.

The Harrison

The Harrison pub on Harrison Street in King's Cross is the home of our very own night. The Folkroom is held two Wednesdays a month. Many of our favourite acts do a music turn down in its basement venue. Great food, great beer, and, naturally, great music

Ben's studio

This is Ben's studio (complete with Ben). This is where we seem to spend most of our time. We record all our demos here and quite a few of our previous albums.

Clissold Park

This is Clissold Park, Stoke Newington. I walk here most days. I get to watch all the seasons change from here — green leaves growing, turning orange then falling off the trees and round again. Quite inspiring images for songwriting, I find. 

Hobgoblin Music

Hobgoblin Music in Central London (Denmark Street) is where we get a lot of our music supplies. Ben can sometimes be found here trying out guitars, mandolins, etc … anything with strings!  

Josienne Clarke and Ben Walker are London residents and musicians. Their latest EP Through the Clouds is available now.

All photos by Josienne Clarke, except lede photo, courtesy of the artist.

Traveler: Your Guide to Taos

Posted on by Editor

Taos, New Mexico is 135 miles north of Albuquerque, and 6,967 feet above sea level. Bordered to the west by the Rio Grande and the Sangre de Cristo Mountain range to the east, Taos is blanketed by the widest sky, with the biggest sun, brightest moon and stars ever.

Getting to Taos is a commitment — especially the last 36 miles … on a two-lane road … winding up the canyon beside the river. Once you reach the crest of the canyon, the plateau, the Rio Grande Gorge, and the mountains form a vista that causes a catch in your breath. Is it any wonder that the place has been an inspiration to artists and writers since the valley was first inhabited?

Getting There

Taquitos at Mike's Mini-Mart

Most people fly into the Albuquerque Sunport and drive north on I25 connecting to US 285 through Española — a route known as the “Low Road.” This is the most direct route and will take you about two hours and 20 minutes without stops. But you will find places you want to stop, depending on the season. Velarde is the village right at the base of the canyon. A fruit growing community, Velarde is loaded with roadside fruit stands in the Fall. But, for a winter snack, stop at Mike’s Mini-Mart on the right hand side as you enter the village and grab a couple of taquitos — homemade fast food at its finest. Taquitos in hand, turn into the narrow canyon and head up to Taos. It’s impossible to get lost. The river is on your left and rock cliffs on your right. Just point north and go.

Lodging

A room at Casa Betita

More and more people are discovering that Taos is much more than a day trip from Santa Fe and are choosing to stay for more extended exploration. Perhaps the most special place to stay is Casa Gallina B & B just a bit southwest of Taos Plaza. As a certified introvert, I don’t generally opt for the traditional B&B experience given the demand for interaction and challenged privacy, but Casa Gallina is anything but traditional. Every room is different, private, and lovingly appointed. The attention to detail is unparalleled; Richard and Matt, the hosts, are warm and generous; the vistas are gorgeous; and the eggs — the gallina in Casa Gallina — are fresh. 

If you want to pretend you live in Taos, try Casa Betita, a fully restored 100-year-old adobe home under the shade of one of the oldest Willow trees in the valley. Casa Betita offers the finest elements of the 21st century with the charm, colors, textures, and décor of true New Mexico, including hand-plastered walls, Kiva fireplaces, vintage rugs, and the artwork of local artists. To stay right in the palm of art and literary history, stay at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House — it's more of a retreat-style hotel and a pleasant walk from Taos Plaza. 

Mornings in Taos

Fruit stands in town

Join the regulars for coffee and a delicious cardamom coffee cake at World Cup — a postage stamp-sized coffee bar on the corner of Taos Plaza. Perch on one of the few barstools or share a step and a bench outside to catch up on all the “news” or just ponder the sky. A little further north on the main drag, you will find two other local favorites for caffeine — the Coffee Spot and Elevation.

My favorite breakfast spot is Michael’s Kitchen Coffee Shop and Bakery, a family-owned gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere reminds me of many places from my childhood: Western, rustic, friendly, and just plain good. Everything is plentiful, old school, and made from scratch. My go-to dish is huevos rancheros with green chile and a sopaipilla with honey. Another favored spot is the Taos Diner. It's a diner through and through — nothing fancy, just simple good food.

Food/Comida

Cheese and bacon at Parcht

New Mexico is known for its cuisine, blending Native American and Hispanic influences and traditions. Taos holds high the traditions with an emphasis on red and green chile and locally sourced ingredients. Most of the restaurant offerings through town reflect the agricultural and farming nature of the community. El Taoseńo has some of the best northern New Mexico food in town.

Head to El Meze for a special night out. Everything is beautifully prepared, regionally sourced, and inspired. The chicharrones are a shared plate you won’t want to share. The grilled romaine salad could quickly become a craving, and the prepared-to-order mini-cardamom doughnuts served with a caramel chocolate sauce are divine. Try also Aceq and Sabroso — both a little farther north in the village of Arroyo Seco. The former has a lovely wine list, and the latter makes the best fresh-squeezed lime margaritas.

Music and Drink

The Taos Inn

Speaking of drink … Taos does drinking establishments up right, and most of them present live music. Every day of the week, there are several live music offerings to choose from — be it local bands, up-and-coming “touring in the van” bands, or known headliners. There are brewpubs aplenty — Taos Ale House, Eske’s Brew Pub, and the Taos Mesa Brewery, which is also one of the main music venues in town with an affiliated radio station that has a fantastic Juke Joint Series for seven bucks.

Madisen Ward and Mama Bear recently played a lively show at the KTAOS Solar Center. The Adobe Bar at the Taos Inn, otherwise known as the living room of Taos, has live music every night of the week, every day of the year. In recent months, Lucinda Williams, Mary Gauthier, Tinariwan, and Los Lobos have all come through town. Suffice it to say, music in Taos is plentiful and eclectic. By far, my favorite discovery is the recently opened Parcht Bottleshop + Bites, an intimate wine bar hidden away on the east side of Taos Plaza. The proprietors, Nicolette and Hunter, have created a convivial atmosphere punctuated by a wonderful selection of wines by the glass and the bottle, a cheese named Purple Haze, and spicy caramelized bacon — the perfect adult clubhouse.

Flavorfull!

Ski Taos

There is so much more to Taos than food and drink. The natural beauty of the place means that outdoor activities are paramount and determined by the season — world class skiing at Taos Ski Valley in the Winter; Class 3 rapids through the Taos Box in the Spring; hiking, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and camping in the Summer. Taos is rather untamed and, as such, has attracted the wild, the eccentric, and the unconventional … musicians, artists, writers, freethinkers, and soapbox preachers.

Favorite Discoveries

The Paseo — a street festival of installation, performance and projection art. 

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance

Taos Pueblo — a World Heritage site, continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years.

Rio Grande Del Norte Monument and the Gorge Bridge

Two Graces Gallery

HorseFeathers

The Harwood Museum — most especially for the Agnes Martin Gallery where you can take a yoga class on Wednesday mornings.

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

Fiestas de Taos

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

The Bavarian — the sun-soaked deck is, by far, my favorite resting spot while skiing with stunning scenery at the base of Kachina Peak, best enjoyed with a mug of hot mulled wine.

All photos by Melissa Howden

A Minute in Ojai with Perla Batalla

Posted on by Editor

Welcome to "A Minute In …", a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Ojai's Perla Batalla takes us on a tour of her favorite haunts, from the post office to the public radio station.

The Coffee Connection

I live in the Ojai Valley and, much like my friend Kevin Ruf (pictured here), I am not a morning person. I love the coffee at the Coffee Connection — and much like Kevin — I need at least two double espressos to get me going. The owner, Jon Furness, and his well-trained staff make impeccable cappuccino with organic milk and coffee that is locally roasted, organic, and fair trade.

Ojai Post Office

Most days, when I am not on the road, I start my day by going to collect my mail at the Ojai post office. I love the Post Office tower. It is an iconic landmark located right in the center of town. Downtown Ojai is only about a block long, so keep your eyes peeled or you’ll miss it.

Libbey Park

Next to the Post Office is Libbey Park — home of the famous Ojai Music Festival. Most importantly, it is also home of the Ojai Valley Youth Foundation’s annual Martin Luther King Celebration, produced entirely by students. I am pictured here with Marty Van Loan on guitar and Claud Mann on cajon.

KPFK

Whenever our local public radio station, KPFK, does a fund drive, I head down the highway and join in the fun. More and more, it seems that public radio is the only real support independent artists have. I jump at the chance to sing their praises and support them back.

Knead Baking Company

Afternoon coffee and pastry breaks are an essential part of my week, especially if I can kibbitz with my best pal and wonderful photographer Heather Benton. Knead Baking Company is a glorious setting on a sunny day. Try their home-made bagels.

The Ojai Vineyard

I have a very warm spot in my heart (and my stomach) for great wines, and some of the very best are made right here in Ojai. Winemakers Adam Tolmach, of the Ojai Vineyard, and Bob Levin, at End of the Road Winery, are both masters of their craft.

End of the Road Winery

End of the Road Winery is magical place. I feel so lucky to get to be involved in the process of picking, bottling, and, most importantly, tasting!

My home

Nothing beats the evening view just outside my window. There are magical sunset skies in the early evening no matter which direction you look.

People always ask me where to find the best food in Ojai. The secret is … it’s at my house. My husband is celebrated chef Claud Mann (host of TBS’s Dinner & a Movie). I always know when he gets that certain look of deep concentration in his eye that he is plotting something scrumptious and the end result will mean perfect happiness for me and our invited guests.

The Thacher School

As a member of this community, I am lucky enough to be invited to concerts that are presented by the Thacher School, and the most recent was a mind-blower. Ladysmith Black Mambazo performed a glorious a cappella concert of South African song.

Perla Batalla is an Ojai-based singer/songwriter who tours and records internationally. 

All photos by Perla Batalla.

Traveler: Your Guide to Glasgow

Posted on by Editor

It may not be Scotland's capital city, but Glasgow — just a half-hour from well-heeled Edinburgh — offers arguably the most vibrant and exciting city life north of the border. From the busy footfall of Sauciehall Street to the beautiful greenery of the West End, from Merchant City to Southside, this manifestly walkable city contains richly diverse neighbourhoods and some of the most fun-loving people you'll meet in the UK.

Getting There

You can fly direct to Glasgow from the east coast, but you’d be robbing yourself of one of the prettiest railway journeys that Britain has to offer. The train from London speeds you through the length of England, its lovely hills and green pastures rolling past your window for a little over four hours. The scenery is particularly breathtaking once you pass Preston and enter the Lake District, whose beauty inspired a generation of romantic poets from William Wordsworth to Robert Southey.

Lodging

[A deluxe room at Blythswood Square. Photo courtesy of BSG.]

If you’ve cash to splash, Blythswood Square is a smart, luxurious hotel complete with spa — a riot of modern décor that sits beautifully within a classic historic town house. It’s even got its own private cinema. Cheaper, but no less hip, is Hotel Indigo, a boutique hotel that’s centrally located … and has an extremely well-stocked minibar.

Coffee

[It's always cuppa time in the UK. Photo courtesy of Willow Tea Rooms.]

There’s a thriving coffee scene in Glasgow, not least because the city has always had a large Italian population. Fratelli Sarti is one of the best-loved authentic Italian restaurants in the city, and you can pop in for a coffee or its famous homemade gelato. Tinderbox (189 Byres Rd, G12 8TS) is the go-to for those who like their stuff strong and black (and has been operating far longer than its hipster competitors). But this is still the UK, so if you prefer a real British drink, head to the Willow Tea Rooms for a cuppa. It’s elegantly designed by art nouveau’s chief architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Food

[A plate of goodness at Café Zique. Photo courtesy of Café Zique.]

Glasgow is the city that first gave the world the Deep Fried Mars Bar, and its cuisine has been somewhat maligned, as a result. But there are plenty of wonderful places to eat, not least in the West End, Glasgow’s leafy and good-living district. Top of the class is the Ubiquitous Chip on picture-postcard Ashton Lane and its sister restaurant Stravaigin, both of which champion Scottish cooking. Close by is Cafézique, a more casual but no less delicious proposition, which serves a wonderfully hearty breakfast. Humbler still, and operating a BYO policy for those on a budget, is the Wee Curry Shop, one of the best Indian restaurants in Scotland.

Drink

[A wee dram of whiskey. Photo credit: IntangibleArts via Foter.com / CC BY.]

You can’t visit Scotland without tasting a wee dram of its namesake liquor. The Pot Still holds a collection of some of the finest Scotch whiskies you can drink, and its bar is as warm and inviting as what’s in the bottle. If you want a more vibrant, modern take on Glasgow drinking, head to Nice’N’Sleazy, the city’s most infamous dive bar, where you can drink beer — and dance — til late into the night.

Shopping

[The Style Mile. Photo credit: marsupium photography via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Style Mile is aptly named. You can browse this shoppers’ heaven — a pedestrianized area which wends through the centre of town along Argyle, Buchanan, and Sauchiehall Streets — for hours. But, if you want something a bit less Main Street, head to the Merchant City district, where its independent boutiques, designer couture, retro retailers, and thrift stores offer a lively and quirky alternative.

Music Venues

http://www.monocafebar.com/[Music and meals at Mono. Photo courtesy of Mono Café Bar.]

Sure, Edinburgh can claim a world-renowned festival. But Glasgow has always been Scotland’s true music capital, where the sound goes on late into the night in gritty dive bars and loud, heaving nightclubs. The city is still mourning the recent closure of its best-loved venue — and artistic hub — the Arches. But the gigs go on, in up-and-coming venues like Mono — a space favouring more experimental sounds — and established indie houses like Stereo, where local bands find a truly passionate audience. City Halls and the Fruitmarket play host to a welter of alternative music, and Barrowland is a former ballroom-turned-Glasgow’s favourite nightclub. For stadium rock, head for the Hydro.

Local Flavor

[The Kelvingrove Museum. Photo credit: dun_deagh via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.]

Glasgow is the British city for modern art. From the Centre for Contemporary Art to the Mackintosh designed Glasgow School of Art, from the Hunterian Gallery to Kelvingrove, the city is at the cutting edge of art and design, and the evidence is all around. For something truly unique, head to the Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre, where mechanical sculptures perform extraordinary choreography. Soccer is also a big deal in this city — and a historical source of feud between its Protestant and Catholic communities, represented by the Rangers and Celtic teams, respectively.

Lede photo credit: brownrobert73 via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Traveler: Your Guide to Chattanooga

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Once one of the dirtiest cities in the country, Chattanooga, TN, is now known as America's Scenic City … and that's not a title given lightly. Surrounded by mountains, bolstered by a thriving arts community, and situated along the banks of the Tennessee River, Chattanooga is a gem of the Southeast, one that's now known for its growing tech scene as much as it is its long-beloved outdoor culture. A native Chattanoogan myself, here are some of my favorite spots in the quickly growing city.

Getting there

If you're in the Southeast — particulary around Nashville, Knoxville, or Atlanta — getting to Chattanooga is a piece of cake. Unfortunately, however, you can no longer take the famed Chattanooga Choo Choo, which now serves as one of the city's more interesting hotels. 

Accommodations

[Photo credit: J. Stephen Conn / Foter.com / CC BY-NC]

If you're gonna Airbnb it, check out upcoming neighborhoods like Southside or, for a room with a view, look for rentals on Lookout Mountain. If you'd like your stay to be a bit more historical, book a room at the aforementioned Chattanooga Choo Choo or stay at the Read House, a historic hotel known around town to be haunted. 

Food

[Photo credit: Lorenia / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND]

Chattanooga's food scene has grown exponentially over the years. With new restaurants popping up every day, you're sure to find good eats no matter what part of town you hit. Some highlights include the tiny breakfast joint Aretha Frankenstein's (Don't leave without trying the pancakes!), farm-to-table eatery the Farmer's Daughter, and the game-filled Southside Social. If you're in need of a caffeine boost, head over to Rembrandt's in the Bluff View Art District, which is conveniently located at the end of the Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge and offers easy access to several restaurants, as well as the Hunter Museum of Art. 

Drink

[Photo credit: Larry Miller / Foter.com / CC BY-NC]

Chattanooga may be small, but it's drink scene is not. The Chattanooga Whiskey Company recently opened the Tennessee Stillhouse, where guests can sample the first whiskey made within Chattanooga city limits in over a century. You can also hit up breweries like Chattanooga Brewing Co. and Hutton & Smith Brewery, both of which have taprooms and food for a more leisurely drinking experience. Check out basement bar the Bitter Alibi and the multi-level Flying Squirrel when you need a nightcap after a long day exploring.

Local Flavor

[Photo credit: Kay Gaensler / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-SA]

There's too much to do in Chattanooga for one weekend trip, but a great way to experience a touch of the local culture is to take your own walking tour. Start with the locally owned shops and galleries on Frazier Ave., take a stroll and a carousel ride in Coolidge Park, cross the Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge, and visit the Hunter Museum of American Art in the Bluff View Arts District. If you have the time, don't miss the Tennessee Aquarium, one of the country's largest freshwater aquariums, and be sure to head up Lookout Mountain for my own personal favorite Chattanooga landmark, Rock City. (If you go during the holidays, be sure to go check out the Christmas lights at night.) There are also outdoor activities galore — from hiking to climbing to SUP — so be sure to pack your outdoor gear, if you really want to see the best the city has to offer. Chattanooga was voted Outside Online's Best Town Ever, after all.

Lede photo courtesy of C Simmons / Foter.com / CC BY-NC

Traveler: Your Guide to Asheville

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Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville, NC, is one of the most scenic cities in the Southeast. A truly eclectic place, the town of just under 90,000 residents packs in art, food, beer, culture, and, of course, the outdoors, making for weekend trips that leave you saying, "We've gotta come back for more soon."

Getting there

For my trip to Asheville, the drive from Nashville was an easy one — about five hours by car. (That doesn't take into account the time change you encounter going from Central to Eastern.) It's a scenic drive, too, especially as you get closer to Asheville itself. And for the UT fans out there, the drive goes right through Knoxville, so you can make a pit stop for all your DayGlo orange needs, if you feel so inclined.

Accommodations

While there's certainly no shortage of Airbnb's right in town, it's worth your while to check out some of the cabin rentals (also found on Airbnb!) in the surrounding area. Many of them offer beautiful views and hiking access, and are a mere 15-20 minutes from the heart of the city.

Food


[loveandlocal / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-SA]

Asheville is definitely a food town. If you're feeling like a fancy night out, chef John Fleer's Rhubarb won't disappoint with an extensive menu that features lobster corn dogs, to name just one of the many delicious dishes. Check out Tupelo Honey Café and Sunny Point Café, if you're looking for something a little more casual. And, of course, don't forget that many of the breweries around town also have food options that rival the quality of their amazing beers. 

Drink


[jpc.raleigh / Foter.com / CC BY-NC]

If Asheville is a food town, it's most certainly a beer town, as well, with more breweries per capita than any other city in the United States. You can spend your entire trip visiting breweries alone and, luckily, many of the breweries are located so close together that doing so is an easy (and legal!) feat. If you don't know where to start, check out the Asheville Ale Trail, a definitive guide to the 13 breweries located in Asheville. A couple favorites from my trip were Green Man Brewery, One World Brewing, and Asheville Brewing Co, the last of which also provided the perfect pizza lunch to fuel our drive back to Nashville.

Local Flavor


[vlasta2 / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND]

If you're into the outdoors, Asheville is the perfect destination. The Blue Ridge Mountains offer a number of hiking options, from easy strolls through the city's Botanical Gardens to more difficult treks, like the Cold Mountain Trails. When your legs need a break, be sure to take advantage of Asheville's art scene which includes the River Arts District, a group of historic buildings by the French Broad River housing a number of artists and studios. And, if you have time to catch a show during your stay, be sure to hit the Orange Peel which, in November alone, features shows from the Milk Carton Kids, the Infamous Stringdusters, and Shakey Graves.

Lede photo courtesy of davidwilson1949 / Foter.com / CC BY