3×3: Janiva Magness on Husbands, Lawyers, and the Battle Between Vinyl and Digital

Artist: Janiva Magness
Hometown: Los Angeles, CA by way of Detroit, MI
Latest Album: Love Wins Again
Personal Nicknames: Sis, Magna, Magneeto, The Boss

Your house is burning down and you can grab only one thing — what would you save?
My husband, my cats, my laptop. I would grab all of them in that order. 😉

If you weren't a musician, what would you be?
Maybe a lawyer or a school teacher, if I could stand school!

Who is the most surprising artist in current rotation in your iTunes/Spotify?
Jordi Savall and Hesperian XX

What is the one thing you can’t survive without on tour?
Yoga

If you had to get a tattoo of someone's face, who would it be?
Pippi Longstocking

Who is your favorite superhero?
Iron Man

Vinyl or digital?
Both — why do I have to choose?

Dolly or Loretta?
Loretta

Meat lover's or veggie?
Veggie, most definitely

What We’re Buying on Record Store Day 2016

Ah, record shopping … There's nothing quite like the thrill of sifting through crates of old vinyl and finding a hidden gem — except, of course, the thrill of shopping on Record Store Day. A vinyl lover's Christmas, each Record Store Day brings with it tons of new and exclusive releases. We like to approach Record Store Day with a plan of action, because nabbing the coolest new picture disc or the most sought-after reissue — while certainly rewarding — isn't a task for the faint of heart.

To help you plan your own Record Store Day 2016, check out our list of all the rad new releases we're hoping to snag, ideally at one of our favorite independent record shops. And for a comprehensive list of what's available on Record Store Day (and to find an independent record store near you), click here.

Buddy Guy and Junior Wells, The Criteria Sessions (Rhino)

The second offering from Rhino's Play the Blues, this LP, limited to 3,500 pieces, features two of our greatest bluesmen together on songs like "Tears, Tears, Tears" and "Sweet Home Chicago."

Johnny Cash, All Aboard the Blue Train with Johnny Cash (ORG Music)

This 1962 Johnny Cash album has been out of print for years now, but is making its return with a 3,000-piece blue vinyl run.

Brandi Carlile, Live at KCRW 'Morning Becomes Eclectic' (ATO Records)

A 2,500-piece Record Store Day Exclusive, this six-song live EP from Brandi Carlile features performances of "The Things I Regret" and "The Eye."

Brandy Clark/Sheryl Crow, "Girl Next Door"/"Homecoming Queen" (Warner Bros.)

On this limited-to-3,000 colored (You get red, blue, or yellow … it's a surprise!) 7-inch, you not only get two tunes from Nashville darling Brandy Clark, but also Crow's take on Clark's song "Homecoming Queen."

Shawn Colvin & Steve Earle, "Wake Up Little Susie"/"Baby's In Black" (Fantasy)

Two covers from two master songwriters make it onto the 2,000 copies of this 7-inch, which features Colvin and Earle duetting on the Everly Brothers' "Wake Up Little Susie" and the Be

Bob Dylan, "Melancholy Mood" (Columbia)

Unless you caught Dylan on his recent Japanese tour, this is your first chance to snag one of these beauties — red vinyl EPs featuring four tracks from Dylan's upcoming album, Fallen Angels.

Jay Farrar, Sebastopol/thirdshiftgrottoslack (Transmit Sound)

This is a must-have for Jay Farrar fans (and it's limited to 1,000 pieces, so get in line early). It's the first time Farrar's Sebastopol has been pressed to vinyl, and also includes a five-song EP.

Emmylou Harris, Wrecking Ball Deluxe Vinyl Version (Nonesuch)

A deluxe version of a fantastic Emmylou Harris album? Sounds like reason enough to try and snag one of the 5,000 three-LP sets.

Kid Millions, Beyond The Confession: Kid Millions Reworks Harry Taussig (Tompkins Square)

You've never heard primitive guitar music like this, reimagined and remixed by drummer Kid Millions.

Langhorne Slim & the Law, Live at Grimey's (Dualtone Music)

We love Langhorne Slim and we love Nashville's famed independent record store Grimey's, so we sure hope we snag one of the 1,500 copies of this eight-song live album.

Madisen Ward & the Mama Bear, Live at Grimey's (Glassnote)

More Grimey's! Madisen Ward & the Mama Bear! If you didn't make their in-store performance (or if you did and want to relive it), you can listen to it anytime you'd like if you grab one of these 1,500 EPs.

Jason Molina, The Townes Van Zandt Covers (Secretly Canadian) 

Jason Molina and Townes Van Zandt aren't often mentioned in the same breath, but this two-song EP, limited to 3,500 copies, proves maybe that shouldn't be the case.

Graham Nash, This Path Tonight (Blue Castle Records)

Our Artist of the Month is releasing a deluxe version of his new album on Record Store Day, complete with bonus 7-inch. 

Elvis Presley, I'm Leaving: Elvis Folk-Country (Legacy)

Culled from RCA Studio B sessions held between 1966 and 1973, this limited edition LP features 12 of Elvis's greatest contributions to country and folk.

The Rough Guide to Unsung Heroes of Country Blues (World Music Network)

Whether you're a longtime blues fan or looking to learn more about the genre, this limited edition compilation — complete with a digital download card — doesn't disappoint. 

Various Artists, The Other Side of Sun: Sun Records Curated by RSD, Volume 3 (ORG Music)

In the third offering of Sun Records Curated by Record Store Day, we get a taste of some lesser-known recordings from the famed label, including tunes from Betty LaVette and Soul Suspects.

Muddy Waters, Hoochie Coochie Man– Live at the Rising Sun Celebrity Jazz Club (Justin Time)

Muddy Waters had one of the greatest backing bands around, and this two-LP live set — pressed on colored vinyl and limited to 2,000 pieces — is an amazing document of an amazing group of musicians.

Lucinda Williams, Just a Little More Faith and Grace (Highway 20)

Get some alternate takes from Lucinda Williams' excellent new album The Ghosts of Highway 20 on this three-song EP, limited to 3,000 copies.


Lede photo via Marc Wathieu via Foter.com / CC BY

Lucinda Williams: Every Exit Leaves a Little Death

The Ghosts of Highway 20 may sound, in title, like it has traces of wanderlust, but the ideas behind the 14 songs on Lucinda Williams’ latest record find their weight in where they come from rather than where they’re going. In many ways, Ghosts is a record that honors Williams’ father, poet Miller Williams, with opening track “Dust” its most obvious but certainly not its only homage. The song is her second re-imagining of one of Miller’s poems, expanding on his composition of the same title after finding success with a similar endeavor on 2014’s “Compassion.”

“[‘Compassion’] was not the first time I’d tried to tackle it. I’d been, for years and years, wanting to take one of his poems and turn it into a song, but I hadn’t been successful at it — it’s really quite challenging,” she says. “When you sit down to do it, you realize the difference between poetry and songwriting. You can’t just take a poem and slap a melody onto it. You have to take the lyrics and rearrange them into something that looks like a song.”

“Dust” is the only track on The Ghosts of Highway 20 that directly stems from the poetry of her father, but the record is filled with glimmers of his influence. “If My Love Could Kill,” a gut-wrenching glimpse into the pain of watching a loved one grapple with Alzheimer’s, directly draws from her father’s battle with the disease. But Ghosts isn’t limited to honoring Lucinda’s roots alone: There are fathers and grandfathers and brothers and sisters whose stories fill the lines of the expansive record, too. Bruce Springsteen’s “Factory,” the record’s lone cover song, finds its meaning in Lucinda’s father-in-law, who spent over three decades working in the factories of Austin, Minnesota.

“First of all, it’s a great song. I love doing it. But, also, it’s sort of a tribute to Tom's [Overby, husband and manager] dad. It’s a short, just really sweet song that’s very concise,” Lucinda explains. “It says so much in so few words. The line that I love is, ‘They walked through the gates with death in their eyes.’ I remember Tom saying to me, ‘I’ve seen that. I saw the men walking out of the factory. I could have been one of them.’”

It’s a haunting image, and one that isn’t a far cry from the fire-and-brimstone billboards and desolate stretches of road that set the tone for the entirety of the record. “Every question and every breath, every exit leaves a little death,” she sings on the album’s title track. Highway 20 weaves its way through many of the towns in the South that have held memories for Williams, so much so that the fascination with its reach began when she was naming her label, Highway 20 Records.

“I was looking at this map — I think Tom and I were talking about different towns in the South — and I saw Highway 20 and all the towns that it was running through,” she says. “It runs through all these towns where I grew up. My brother was born in Vicksburg, Mississippi. My sister was born in Jackson. I started school in Macon. Monroe, Louisiana — it also runs all the way through there.”

The exits that dot I-20 played host to some of the more formative experiences in Williams’ life, from growing up to experiencing music and, later, finding familiarity amidst a life of back-to-back shows and endless touring.

“I went back to play in Macon, Georgia, a few years ago at the old Cox Theatre in downtown Macon, which is one of the first places the Allman Brothers got started,” says Williams. “It’s this really cool little theatre. I hadn’t been to Macon, been back there, in however long, and I remember it amazed me how little had changed. It’s one of those Southern towns that, unlike places like Nashville that are kind of ‘boom’ towns right now, one of these towns you go back and hardly anything’s changed.”

Williams started elementary school in the small Georgia city and, even in those early years, her father was exposing her to art and music in its natural environment.

“One of the reasons it’s so significant for me is that I remember my dad taking me to downtown Macon to see, back then, this blues — gospel blues — blind preacher street singer guy named Blind Curly Brown. He never got real well-known or anything,” she says. “Needless to say, that was a significant moment because there I was, six years old, listening — that’s seeping into my little six-year-old mind.”

Williams tagged along with her father often during that time period, even chasing peacocks on the estate of his great mentor and friend Flannery O’Connor and, ultimately, finding O’Connor’s work to be a jumping-off point for her own. Songs from throughout her career — the vivid, dark imagery on 2003’s “Atonement” or the symbolism in 1998’s “2 Kool 2 Be 4-Gotten — exemplify the way Williams’ art was informed by the classic Southern writer. On Ghosts, this reveals itself in tracks like “Louisiana Story,” a tale of abuse masked in Southern idioms. Meanwhile, “House of Earth,” a song with borrowed lyrics from Woody Guthrie, continues Williams’ tribute to her influences in a tangible way without sacrificing her own distinct voice.

“I was actually sent those lyrics,” remembers Williams. “[Nora Guthrie] sent me the lyrics to [“House of Earth”]. She said, ‘You know, the lyrics are not your average Woody Guthrie lyrics, and I thought of you when I was trying to think of who might want to try to put music to them. I thought, if anyone can do it, you would be the one to do it.' So I read them, and at first I went, 'Wow.' Especially for that time — it was written in the ‘40s — it’s basically about him visiting a prostitute. It’s pretty liberal thinking, especially for that day.”

Nora was right, though: If anyone was up for the challenge, it was Williams, who went on to perform the provocative number at the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C. before eventually recording it for The Ghosts of Highway 20.

“One of the things my dad taught me as a writer was to never censor yourself,” says Williams. “I’ve always been a rebel at heart, so I think I like to push people’s buttons a little. I like to make people think, like any good artist does, I think, whether it be a painter or a songwriter. I think it’s good to make people go, 'Wow, what was that?'”

The Ghosts of Highway 20 was largely recorded along with songs from Williams’ last record, 2014’s Where the Spirit Meets the Bone. Working with the intention of releasing it via her own label — and producing the record with her trusted team at the helm — helped her to solidify which songs were a fit for the unconventionally long record.

“I feel secure,” she says. “It makes me feel secure if I’m working with people I trust, and I think that’s the bottom line.”

Williams’ tranformative work on songs like “Dust” or “House of Earth” makes for its own road map of the way art can reimagine itself, paving a formidable road for artists of a new generation to look back on her work for their own cues. In many ways, Lucinda Williams’ creative output mimics the unwieldy stretch of road that’s borne witness to it; like an expansive Southern highway, the best records are never really finished being explored.


Lede illustration by Cat Ferraz.

Traveler: Your Guide to New Orleans

I’ve got a soft spot for New Orleans. No matter how many times I visit, I always find more to love. Tourism is the heart of New Orleans’ economy. In 2014, nearly 10 million people visited bringing in nearly $7 billion dollars. Everywhere you go, there is a celebration of New Orleans’ rich history — usually accompanied by lots of drinks and revelry. Needless to say, this town will show you a good time.

Getting There

For many travelers, getting to the destination is half the fun. Others prefer being there. If you are the latter, New Orleans is home to Louisiana’s largest airport. All major airlines fly to it. If you are the former, take the legendary Highway 61 — the Blues Highway. Be sure to stop in Clarksdale, Mississippi, which is home to juke joints and good eats. Also, take a photo at the crossroads where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul.

Accommodations


Hotel Saint Pierre. Photo credit: Numinosity (Gary J Wood) via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

The fantastic Hotel Saint Pierre is not one building, but several historic buildings occupying both sides of an entire block nestled between the Tremé and the French Quarter. The Garden District House is another good choice, if you’re looking for an affordable, uptown hostel in the Garden District, a gorgeous neighborhood that is home to New Orleans’ elite where mansions and former plantations intermingle with upscale restaurants and cemeteries. Best of all, it is near the streetcars for quick access to downtown and the French Quarter.

If money is not an issue, class it up at the Roosevelt Hotel, a centrally located picture of luxury which houses some of New Orleans’ best restaurants and classiest bars. Even if you do not stay here, swing by for a drink and check out the lobby. (More on the Roosevelt further down.)

The business district is another solid choice that is easy on the pocketbook and within walking distance to the French Quarter. There are some great stays, like the Whitney Hotel. It is a former bank, has good rates, and offers a unique New Orleans experience.

Food


Boiled crawfish. Photo credit: kittenfc via Foter.com / CC BY.

In New Orleans, it is not where you eat, but what you eat. You need to get some crawfish. The Original French Market Restaurant is a good place to start. I recommend the crawfish boat — it comes with potatoes, sausage, and corn boiled with two pounds of crawfish to create a flavor assault on your mouth.

You also have to get a po’ boy. NOLA Poboys is a good spot in the French Quarter, but there are hundreds of others to choose from.

You need to get a beignet and it might as well be at Café De Monde, which is a New Orleans landmark dating back to 1862. Today, Café Du Monde is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week — only closed on Christmas Day and during the occasional hurricane. All the world’s beignets are judged against theirs, as they set the benchmark.

You should also eat a muffuletta. Central Deli and Grocery originally concocted this beast of a sandwich that consists of olive salad, mortadella, salami, mozzarella, ham, and provolone on a Sicilian bun. It is intense. Central Deli and Grocery is still operating, so swing by their Decatur Street location. You may want to split the sandwich.

When you are ready for a healthy meal, head down by the Warehouse Arts District to eat at Seed. It is a vegan restaurant, but your tastebuds won’t know it. Seed offers a variety of fresh juices and smoothies to help with hangovers, and their menu is a healthy version of classic New Orleans dishes for a good change of pace after all the po’ boys and muffulettas.

Drink


Sazeracs. Photo credit: susanna bolle via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is no shortage of bars in New Orleans. You must walk down Bourbon Street — get a to-go beer and have a nice stroll. Stop at Marie Laveau’s Voodoo Shop for souvenirs, and try to avoid tripping over the passed out frat boys. There’s a lot of fun amidst the chaos.

The sazerac was the first cocktail invented by Antoine Amédée Peychaud in 1838. When he died in 1893, the Grunewald Hotel acquired the rights. In 2009, the former Grunewald reopened as the Roosevelt. Swing by their Sazerac Room and enjoy this New Orleans cocktail.

If you love dive bars, check out Molly’s in the French Quarter. They have a great jukebox and cheap drinks. You can get a beer and a shot for $5. For outdoor seating, go to Pat O’Brien’s next to the Preservation Hall. Perfect for warm Southern nights, the cobblestoned patio tables are nestled amongst fountains and flora, while pianos duel inside.

Coffee


Café’ au lait and beignets. Photo credit: kaige via Foter.com / CC BY-ND.

You are already going to Café Du Monde for beignets, so you might as well get some of their famous chicory coffee. Though chicory was a coffee substitute during the Civil War, today, the coffee and chicory are mixed to create a wonderful earthy flavor with a hint of chocolate.

Mister Gregory’s on Rampart Street is another great coffee shop. It is a French casual café in a great location — far enough off the beaten path that you can sit for awhile, but not so far that your feet will get sore walking to it.

Live Music


Preservation Hall. Photo credit: Phil Roeder via Foter.com / CC BY.

The French Quarter is still home to some great live music. Fritzel’s European Jazz Bar on Bourbon Street is fantastic. On Sunday afternoons, they have stride piano and, every night, they have top-notch, live jazz. If you need convincing, check out Fritzel’s New Orleans Jazz Band on Spotify. There is never a cover, although there is a drink minimum.

Preservation Hall’s history, alone, is worth the admission, and the music makes it one of the best deals in town. Get there about 30 minutes early, as the room is small and sells out.

Frenchman Street is also home to a bustling live music scene. The Maison has some great jazz and funk in a large room with room to dance. I highly recommend visiting d.b.a on Monday nights. When he’s not on tour, Luke Winslow-King plays every Monday at 7 p.m. His last album, Everlasting Arms, was one of my favorites from 2014. Right down the street is the Spotted Cat Music Club. It is home to some of New Orleans’ best traditional jazz, though most of the bands are younger and many have an Americana Twist.

Local Flavor


Jackson Square. Photo credit: christian.senger via Foter.com / CC BY.

There is more to New Orleans than just drinking and music. Take a riverboat cruise. You’re on the Mississippi River, after all. Enjoy it! There are three riverboat cruise companies. I recommend the Creole Queen. Their paddleboat is the nicest, their crew is the best, and the bar has live music. The cruise stops at Chalmette Battlefield, where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Most historians consider it the last great fight in the War of 1812.

I also recommend checking out a burlesque show by Fleur De Tease at One Eyed Jacks. One Eyed Jacks makes some of the best cocktails in town. The show is wonderful. Be warned, it sells out fast. Get your tickets early.

Designated by Congress as America’s official museum about World War II, the National World War II Museum is ranked by TripAdvisor as the #1 attraction in New Orleans. USA Today also named it the best place in the U.S. to learn military history, so it is a must-see for history buffs.

If you prefer serial killers and vampires to military history, take a haunted tour to learn about New Orleans’ seedy past while sipping hurricanes. It is informative, fun, and a great way to explore the town.

I also recommend visiting Congo Square at Armstrong Park. It is the birthplace of jazz. In the 18th century, enslaved African vendors gathered there. On Sundays, they sang, danced, and traded. The cultural expressions developed into the Mardis Gras Indian traditions, the Second Line, and, finally, New Orleans jazz. It is one of the most important squares in the United States. Armstrong Park is also home to an amazing sculpture garden.

On the way to Armstrong Park, check out the Washing Cycle. Located kitty-corner from the park, it formerly housed J & M Studios. Early rock pioneers like Little Richard, Fats Domino, and Dave Bartholomew first recorded here. J & M Studios was integral to the development of early rock ‘n’ roll, though it is now a laundromat.


Lede image: Bourbon Street. Photo credit: Eric K Gross via Foter.com / CC BY.

Squared Roots: Luther Dickinson Carries the Torch for Jim Dickinson

Jim Dickinson was a musician’s musician who worked with everyone from Bob Dylan to the Replacements to Sam & Dave. One of his earliest gigs was in the Dixie Flyers, a group much like the cats in Muscle Shoals who backed a multitude of great soul artists on big hits. But, on the advice of Duane Allman, Dickinson jumped ship in 1971 to go it alone. Though he made a few solo records — and various band records, as well — what Dickinson will likely be remembered for is his work as a side player and producer. Whether toiling alongside Ry Cooder or the Cramps, Dickinson always brought a little bit of Memphis with him.

He also passed that same Memphis mojo on to his sons, Luther and Cody. The two have spent the past 20 years as the North Mississippi Allstars, at least when Luther wasn't playing with the Black Crowes, producing records for Otha Turner, or working on solo records, like his recently released Blues and Ballads: A Folksinger's Songbook, Vol. 1 & 2 which finds him carrying on his dad's song collecting tradition.

I'm excited to talk to someone who has first-hand knowledge of the subject at hand. Usually, we're just speculating about “Why do you think Bobbie Gentry slinked away into obscurity?” or whatever. So … your dad was born in Little Rock, grew up in Chicago and Memphis. That's some blues cred, right there.

Yeah!

But he was so much more than just the blues. Did his passions run just as wide, or did he have a secret favorite style that he kept to himself?

You know, he was a song collector. When we were young and he started to teach us — because we were so interested, he said, “Okay, I gotta teach 'em.” He didn't force it on us. He started teaching us his repertoire and each song was a wildly different genre. But it all fell under roots music. There would be a Texas swing song into an R&B ballad to a country-honky tonk number to a blues song or a folk song or a jazz song that we were all struggling to get through. He just loved songs. And he really loved words. He was of a generation that really had its formative years without television, listening to the radio shows. Also, his vision was really bad, and he learned how to memorize what he heard because it was so hard for him to read. He just really had a way with words.

He was just a baby in Chicago … I think he was nine when he moved to Memphis. But growing up in Memphis — for a kid searching for, pre-rock 'n' roll … he'd hear some dixieland or some boogie-woogie that would have that feeling that the whole generation was reaching for. I think this is true of people from all walks of life: You can be a politician or a doctor or an athlete but, in that generation, the American cultures were really reaching for each other and music brought them together. Like on WDIA in Memphis, that's where he heard some R&B and some gospel, then found blues.

In the '60s blues revival, when the blues masters who were living in the South were rediscovered, that really changed everything. At this point, this is post-rock 'n' roll because the rock 'n' roll heyday was really short: Elvis went to the Army. Chuck Berry went to jail. Jerry Lee Lewis went to England. Carl Perkins had the crash. It was a really short explosion, but then folk music came and the song collecting came.

But, then … and this is what was so amazing … just the cultural phenomenon of North and South … the young music lovers from the North, they had the perspective to literally drive to the South and find the blues men and pluck them out of obscurity, rediscover them. Dad, you know, he'd listened to the records, he'd been to the library, he'd read about these men. And, through no fault of his own as a kid, the segregation was such that it took the musicians from the North to come down, to cross those lines. That's a beautiful thing, that perspective. Once that happened, that's when, in Memphis in the mid '60s, there's Furry Lewis, there's Sleepy John Estes, there's Bukka White, there's Reverend Robert Wilkins, there's Fred McDowell. It was unbelievable.

And, in Memphis, dad's generation … they weren't hippies. They were bohemians. They were behind the times. They didn't really like the hippies. They were a little bit older. When the art community and the blues men discovered each other in Memphis, a good time was had by all. [Laughs]

[Laughs] That's part of what I love about his career. He came up with the Dixie Flyers playing on all those great soul tracks with big artists. But he also championed underdogs, and found those folks who were either up-and-coming or somehow lost in the shuffle. He didn't just go for the gold. He really went for the music.

It's true. I think he felt like a bit of an outsider himself. That's part of how he perceived himself which becomes part of how you're perceived. But he left Memphis and went to college in Texas. He was so afraid of the draft, so he ended up going to Baylor because there was no ROTC. [Laughs] He didn't want ROTC. He didn't want fraternities. But he had to go to college to keep from getting drafted, so he went to Texas. When he came back, all of a sudden, he sees what is to become Stax. It took him a while to catch up.

His concept of “Memphis music” was that it was a group of outcasts making music in the middle of the night. And it goes back to Sam Phillips, really, because he was so ahead of his time. Sam Phillips and Dewey Phillips … Dewey Phillips was a disc jockey who would play any genre of music and that's, really, where that comes from. In dad's book that we're just now working on a deal for, he talks about how Dewey Phillips addressed his audience on the radio as “good people.” It was, “Hey, good people.” It wasn't a Black audience. It wasn't a white audience. It was just good people, and he would play any type of music — blues next to Hank Williams next to gospel.

But Sam Phillips, man … he was really searching for something and he pushed these people to invent rock 'n' roll. He discovered Howlin' Wolf in 1951. In Memphis, to enable the African-American artists like that is so heavy. Sam said discovering Wolf was more important to him than discovering Elvis. So, he recorded the blues catalog. But then, he found the young white kids and everyone searching for a new sound and he's turning them onto the catalog … it's the oral tradition. That's the American roots art — the oral tradition of the lyrics. He was searching for what became rock 'n' roll. He was trying to bring the cultures together to make a new thing.

And your dad was deep in all of that with a bunch of different bands. It seems like being just a side player wasn't quite enough for him.

Ohhhh … that was his favorite! He loved that.

Was it? So, when it was all said and done, was the level of success and respect he achieved enough for him? Or did he have bigger ambitions that never quite materialized?

Well, he was so happy to have played with the Rolling Stones on “Wild Horses.” He definitely wished that he could have toured with them. But, he did play on “Wild Horses,” and he loved it. He was also so thrilled when he did Time Out of Mind with Bob Dylan because that was one of his ambitions that he fulfilled. And it was so fulfilling. He would say, “A lot of things in life disappoint. Bob Dylan is not one of them.” He was thrilled. In typical Dylan form … dad was standing in the parking lot one day, smoking a joint, and Bob wandered over and said, “Hey, man, you know Sleepy John Estes, right? How do you make that C-chord, man? How do you play that lick in 'Drop Down Mama'?” [Laughs] So they hit it off!

Of all the many projects he played on, what's your favorite — the one that you always go back to or the one that you can't get over the fact that it's your dad on it?

Oh, man. Wow. [Pauses] You know, the Ry Cooder records, Boomer's Story and Into the Purple Valley, are really, really cornerstones. It's that whole idea of … I mentioned song collectors and the idea of repertoire in roots music — meaning anything from blues to country to gospel to jazz to anything under the umbrella — and reinterpreting it. With his band, they would improvise and play the music so loosely and unrehearsed and aggressively interpretive, they thought of playing roots music as jazz. So, that's one thing.

But the Ry Cooder records … Cooder was a song collector, but he had that California twist. He had the whole of Hollywood musicians and instruments in the palm of his hand. He could get the best musicians playing the most exotic instruments with a phone call. When Cooder recognized dad for who he was and what he knew and was capable of in the recording studio and hired him as a producer, they really made some great folk-rock records that still … there's just nothing like them.

What was interesting for us … we grew up learning Furry Lewis and Bukka White and Sleepy John Estes from our father and his friends. And his friends' sons all became musicians. The scene was so strong. Their band was Mudboy and the Neutrons. Our band is Sons of Mudboy and we keep the repertoire alive. The repertoire is what has to be protected and carried on. It can be interpreted however you like — that's the freedom. It's just about the melodies and the poetry.

The blues was something secondhand to us. We learned it through our parents. But, then, in the early '90s, I discovered Otha Turner and his family. And that was a lovely thing. But they played fife and drum music. Then, Kenny Brown, who was our friend and was a guitar player. But THEN, when I finally heard R.L. Burnside and went to Junior Kimbrough's Juke Joint, it was multi-generational, electrified country-blues in my backyard.

R.L. Burnside took me under his wing and took me on the road. He and Kenny showed me the ropes in '97, and we've been touring ever since. He literally took me out of town. [Laughs] I'd never been anywhere before. What blew dad's mind was that the blues exchange happened again. He didn't think that his sons would be able to learn and play with real blues men.

It just keeps going.

Yeah. You know what's something else? There was a period of time when they all passed away and we were all recovering. Everyone — the blues men, our father, his friends. It's just part of growing up and regaining your feet. I like writing songs about people, championing them as folk heroes in my art. Because Stagger Lee and Casey Jones were men who walked the earth, once upon a time. It was the songs that made them legends, so you sing the legend. [Laughs]

[Laughs] Exactly. Larger than life. Let 'em live on.

Exactly! The repertoire and the new songs about them.

So when I came home to the Hill Country Picnic, which is when everybody in Mississippi gets together, I couldn't believe there was this whole group of young kids playing with Gary Burnside, Dave Kimbrough, Duwayne Burnside … driving them around and letting them borrow their equipment, giving them lunch money. These kids, they didn't know R.L. and Junior. But, to them, Gary, Dave, and Duwayne are R.L. and Junior. It's happening again!


Luther Dickinson photo by Don VanCleave. Jim Dickinson photo by

Traveler: Your Guide to Memphis

There are two types of people in this world: those who love Nashville and those who prefer Memphis. I fall into the latter. Located on the banks of the Mississippi River, Memphis is one of the South’s most diverse cities. The music history is rich. Jazz and blues incubated on Beale Street. Stax Records brought the soul. The trail of tears crossed the Mississippi. With so much to see and do, it’s important to go in with a plan and some sights in mind.

Getting There

Unless you’re coming from nearby, the most obvious choice would be airplane. Memphis has a major international airport, so you should have no problem getting a flight. If you are coming from down South, take Highway 61. It might take a bit longer, but you’ll come up the blues trail. Be sure to make a pit stop in Clarksdale, MS. It’s full of juke joints and good eats. You’ll pass the crossroads where Robert Johnson allegedly sold his soul … It’s now a parking lot.

Accommodations

The Peabody Ducks. Photo credit: Roger Schultz via Foter.com / CC BY.

Memphis is not an expensive city to visit and there are ample places to stay. I stayed at my friend Tim’s house, but that’s not an option for you: He’s a private person and doesn’t take kindly to unannounced strangers.

A good place to start on a moderate budget is downtown. Most of the hotels have decent prices and are also close to all the sights. If money is not a problem, check out the Peabody Hotel. It is a National Historic Hotel and famous for its ducks. The penthouse is home to a family of ducks. Every morning at 8 am, they take the elevator to the lobby. They march to the central fountain and then swim for the rest of the day. At exactly 5 pm each night, they take the elevator back upstairs. It’s been happening for countless generations. A duck walk of fame surrounds the building. Of course, the ducks aren’t the only reason it is listed as a National Historic Hotel. The Peabody is beautiful and emanates old school glamour.

If you are the adventurous type, check out the Big Cypress Lodge at the Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid. I know, it sounds bonkers. Bass bought the Pyramid that formerly housed the Memphis Grizzlies. They retrofitted it as a massive retail store and hotel. It is amazing. They spared no expense. The closest comparison is Disneyland’s Splash Mountain. There are water features and catfish and dioramas. An enormous faux cypress tree reaches the upper decks of the pyramid. It’s worth a visit, even if you decide on a more practical sleeping arrangement.

Food

Photo courtesy of Central BBQ. 

Though famous for its barbecue, Memphis has wonderful food, all the way around. But, playing to its strengths, Central BBQ is a good spot to try out some different styles. Be warned: It’s popular and it gets crowded. Don’t be afraid of their hot barbecue sauce. It wasn’t very spicy. The mustard and vinegar sauces are worth a dip or two. Be sure to check out the great Mississippi Blues Map mural in the backroom.

How about a bit of soul food for brunch? Check out Alcenia’s. For $12.95, you can consume a week’s worth of calories. I had the sausage omelet with fried green tomatoes, a biscuit, potatoes, and coffee. I still had at least one more side choice. All of their food is good. The chicken and waffles are top notch. You’ll also get a kiss on the cheek if Miss BJ, the proprietor, is there. Plan on spending some time at this joint. It isn’t fast food, but it is well worth the wait. Don’t hold it against them that Guy Fieri recommended them. I know he’s a divisive figure, but he’s right about Alcenia’s.

Soul Fish Café was my favorite restaurant this time around. The blackened catfish is absolutely phenomenal. (The fried catfish was also delicious.) I can’t recommend the Soul Fish Café enough. The tables fill up fast, but there’s usually room at the counter. Highly recommended.

In short, I would be enormous if I lived in Memphis.

Drink

Beale Street. Photo credit: charley1965 via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

If you’re going to Memphis as a tourist, you need to do some touristy things. One of those things is getting drunk on Beale Street — the Bourbon Street of Memphis. Lined with bars, Beale Street is where you’ll find dueling pianos and Stax cover bands. There’s Almost Elton, an Elton John cover artist, and a gazillion blues groups. You can drink in the street, so it’s a good time and it’s probably not somewhere the locals want to hang, but it’s worth visiting while on vacation.

The Cooper-Young neighborhood is another great area for drinks. The Slider Inn is a popular joint. There’s also Young Avenue Deli, which has pool tables and airs the games. Don’t worry if you don’t like sports, the games are muted. Another Cooper-Young neighborhood joint is the Celtic Crossing. On the weekends, they have live Celtic music, often accompanied by clogging.

Best of all, beers are cheap in Memphis. You won’t break the bank with a wild night on the town.

Coffee

Photo courtesy of Café Keough.

Visit Coffeehouse Row. (Nobody in Memphis calls it this, but I think it has a nice ring.) On the way to Cooper-Young, you’ll drive down Cooper Street. You have three different, but good, coffee choices. The first is Muddy’s Bake Shop. This is a cutesy place. You can get cupcakes here. If it were an online retailer, it would be Etsy. Next, you have Other Lands. It’s a bit grittier. They sell beer. If it were an online retailer, it would be Craigslist. Your final choice is Tart. It’s the artsy coffee house. They have a huge outdoor patio that’s great for smoking cigarettes and getting deep. If it were an online retailer, it would be Ziibra. But Café Keough is my favorite coffee shop. It’s downtown and one of the only places with bagels. The place is huge and has a comfortable atmosphere. They also have great t-shirts.

Live Music

Boogie on Beale Street. Photo credit: Heath Cajandig via Foter.com / CC BY.

Hi Tone is one of the best rock ‘n' roll venues in America. We caught a great show while in town — local band the Dead Soldiers were back in town after a long tour. They brought the house down. There were sing-alongs and inside jokes, as drunk people fell off their chairs waving their hands in the air. (It was like they just didn’t care.) There was a lot of love in that room, and it was a pleasure to bear witness. Also, the beers were cheap. I loved it.

Wild Bills is the best blues joint in town. It’s a bit isolated, but they have some great acts. They also serve 40s. Be warned that the music doesn’t start until 11 pm. 

If you make it to Beale Street, you’re going to catch a lot of live music. Every storefront offers up something new — traditional jazz, blues, rock ‘n' roll, and soul. The history of Memphis music is proudly displayed seven nights a week on Beale Street. The Southern Folklore Center also puts on some great daytime concerts. Located downtown, they curate an excellent roster that ranges from gospel to blues and everything in-between.

Local Flavor

Graceland living room. Photo credit: Rob Shenk via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

Memphis has four must-see destinations. You need to go to Graceland. Don’t worry about the plane tour and all the add-ons. They pile up quick. Just go and see the mansion. It’s $36, and well worth it. It comes with a guided iPad tour that is narrated by John Stamos. (Yes, Uncle Jesse from Full House.) The tour is informative and Stamos’s voice sounds a bit like George Clooney, which I had never noticed. The Jungle Room is one of the coolest living rooms ever. The Pool Room is lined in fabric and feels like a 1970s opium den. Elvis didn’t care what was cool. He liked what he liked and the results are a one of a kind home.

Next, you have to visit Sun Studio. So many iconic records were recorded there. It’s where Elvis and Johnny Cash got their start. Howling Wolf cut some amazing sides at Sun before heading up to Chicago. To stand where so many greats have stood before is a powerful feeling.

The Lorraine Hotel, now the National Civil Rights Museum. Photo credit: Andy Miller.

Any Memphis trip is incomplete without a visit to the Lorraine Hotel. This is where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was shot. It’s now the National Civil Rights Museum. It’s heavy. And it will depress you. That being said, it is important to remember our past mistakes in order to learn from them, especially in today’s extreme world.

Finally, you need to visit the Stax Records Home of American Soul Museum. Isaac Hayes's gold-plated Cadillac is on display and Otis Redding cut his classics in those same halls. If you were ever on the fence between Motown and Stax, you will leave with two feet in Stax’s backyard.


Lede photo credit: BlankBlankBlank via Foter.com / CC BY.

7 Very Cool Kurt Vile Tunes

Kurt Vile is one of those artists who might not, at first blush, seem like an obvious choice for the BGS. But he very much is. We're all big fans of his folky/bluesy riffs, quirky takes, and esoteric arrangements. Here are a few of our favorites:

"That's Life, tho (almost hate to say)"


Mix one part chillaxing, one part Stay Puft Marshmallow Man, many parts existential dread. Stir, sip slowly, and pretend you're a certified badass out for a night on the town.

"Wakin on a Pretty Day"


Waking up is the absolute worst part of every day … even the pretty ones. This song doesn't help, but we still dig it deep.

"Pretty Pimpin'"

This track is so bad-ass, Kris Orlowski wrote a whole short story based on it.

"Baby's Arms"


Because there actually is a woman with "shining, shining secret stones" in her hands (or, at least, in her pockets) and she loves this song.

"All in a Daze Work"


Because this one goes with that one … and you just know that any woman who comes "flying through like a traveling gypsy show tornado" is going to have some secret stones of her own.

"Life Like This"


The rhythm of his phrasing dances to a different — and fabulous — beat. It's almost hip hop-esque.

"My Sympathy"

On this one, the guitar work gets the point across so well, he only needs four lyrical lines to round it out:

So you wanna marry me, oh you got my sympathy
In a daydream, I saw my soul in a flashing neon sign waving to myself
So you want a baby, well it's got my sympathy
In a nightmare, I saw myself briefcase, watch, and a tie


Photo credit: Marina Chavez

STREAM: Etta Baker, ‘Railroad Bill’

Artist: Etta Baker
Hometown: Morganton, NC
Album: Railroad Bill
Release Date: February 19
Label: Music Maker Recordings

In Their Words: "Possessing a stunning beauty, Etta's husband refused to let her travel and perform away from home. She never stopped playing music! This gracious grandmother was the source of a great deal of joy and surprise when I found out that she still played guitar after I heard her early recordings in the '60s. One of the signature chords of my guitar vocabulary comes from her version of 'Railroad Bill.' This was the first guitar picking style I ever learned." — Taj Mahal

To Spend Your Life in Pain and Misery: An Interview with Eric Burdon

Lead Belly Fest is coming to Carnegie Hall. It is a fitting venue, as Lead Belly’s last performance was at Carnegie Hall in 1949. An all-star lineup is paying tribute on February 4, 2016 with Eric Burdon of the Animals co-headlining the festival. The Animals first rose to fame in 1962 with an electrified version of Lead Belly’s “House of the Rising Sun.” It was an unparalleled success and influenced everyone from Bob Dylan to Jimi Hendrix, and inspired countless aspiring musicians to pick up the guitar. It was the “Smells Like Teen Spirit” of the 1960s. Now, Burdon circles back around to honor his hero.

Thank you for taking the time to talk before the Lead Belly Fest at Carnegie Hall. They must be very excited to have you headlining. Have you performed at Carnegie Hall before?

No, but it will be an honor to pay homage to Lead Belly in a place like Carnegie Hall, which represents the pinnacle of venues around the world. It will be a thrill to share the stage with blues legend Buddy Guy, so I'm really looking forward to it.

The two most influential versions of “House of the Rising Sun” come from you and Lead Belly. At this point, you must have performed “House of the Rising Sun” more than Lead Belly or anyone else. How do you feel about the song?

I will probably be singing this song as they lower me into my grave. It's a song that is closely associated with me, and I can't tell you how many people have told me it was the first song they learned how to play on guitar or was in the background for their first kiss. I first heard this song in the folk clubs of Newcastle and immediately fell in love with it. It somehow clicked and connected with me. I chose the song because it has a mysterious vibe, a haunting melody, and a good story to it. I stand by it today as one of the best songs I've ever heard and, no matter how much I fight it, I still always enjoy singing it for people.

Has it taken on new meaning for you? What about the song did you relate to as a young man? What do you home in on now?

I related to it then, as now, as the tale of an outsider trying to make it in this cruel world. Nothing in the past 50 years has changed that feeling. It's a universal situation, whether one is young or old, to be faced with one's mortality and desires.

Growing up outside of the U.S., what was the first version of the song that you heard? I know Roy Acuff had a much earlier version and the Lomaxes first released it in the early 1930s, but I don’t imagine the Grand Ole Opry was as popular in England.

Everyone in the world has recorded that song, but if you go back in time, it was based on an English hymn. It probably goes back to the 15th century. In fact, if you listen to “Greensleeves,” which was written by Henry V, there is a great similarity between those two songs, which makes it a pure folk song.

I believe it was Dave Van Ronk who said there are older versions of the song that are about a woman joining a convent. It seems like the “House of the Rising Sun” can represent almost anything. Do you relate it to the more traditional idea of it being a brothel or do you think there’s more to it?

It can represent almost anything — the brothel in New Orleans, the coal mine in Newcastle, the state of mind that you are stuck someplace, a bad marriage or any soul-crushing job. There are hundreds of thousands of people who spend their lives in pain and misery and even people who have the money, the clout, and the lifestyle to escape pain and misery who find themselves in that state. It's not just a story of a woman who works in a whorehouse or a guy visiting one. It's a song of soul-searching. It's a song of redemption. "To spend your life in pain and misery" could be about any place one needs to escape from.

In your book Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood, you describe being invited to the actual House of the Rising Sun. It must have been heavy visiting the supposed source material of the song that kick-started your career. Is there any new information about the house since you visited? Has it been authenticated? I would love to visit sometime — is it open to the public or are there any plans for it?

I don't know if it has been authenticated. For sure, there are several places that claim to be the true, one, and only House of the Rising Sun. But this two story building on St. Louis Street in the French Quarter had me convinced that there was some magic there. It was kept in immaculate condition, pretty much the way it had been at the turn of the century. It was owned, at the time, by a madame — Marianne Soleil Levant, which translates to Rising Sun. Today, it belongs to a female lawyer. There were paintings imported from France, and a mural in the courtyard that was painted with colors made from plants. I wanted to photograph it before it disappeared. Unfortunately, when I went back there a year later, the mural was almost gone, but the vibe was still there. Heavy rain had drained away most of the coloring. A totally unique and fascinating place.

The woman who owned it had the New Orleans city records with an entire history of how many times the house had been used as a brothel. That's how she determined it was the House of the Rising Sun. During the Civil War, when the Union Army came to New Orleans, they needed a whorehouse for the officers, so they made it legal. Then, when the union Army left, the house was shut down.

These pleasure houses were not cut and dry houses of sin. The girls who worked in these places were usually chosen by the madams for their light-colored skin, their ability to deliver sexual pleasure, and, more importantly, for their skills in natural medicines. Skills that they inherited from Africa. These girls knew the plants that grew in the jungle regions of New Orleans — how to identify them and use them to heal the elderly bodies of their customers.

For me, the most intriguing part is the music. It's said that that's where jazz got its start. Jelly Roll Morton brought ragtime music to these houses. Ragtime suited the joy, the merriment that was going on there. Later on, Morton claimed to be the inventor of jazz.

When I visited the alleged House of the Rising Sun, there were 12 nuns there, in their habits, and they asked me to sing the song, which I did, a cappella. After that, they said they would pray for my mortal soul — an experience I'll never forget.

It’s been a big year for Lead Belly fans. Smithsonian released an unheard track, “Queen Mary,” and an extensive box set. The Lead Belly Fests have been traveling the world. He seems as important now as when he was still alive. What do you think it is about Lead Belly’s music that still resonates so strongly?

Lead Belly didn't just sing the blues. He wrote and recorded songs that can be heard today in modern popular culture. He was the first Black folk singer who actually turned the essence of blues into commercial songs, which were recorded by other people, such as "Goodnight Irene." Lead Belly was an artist of incredible depth. A totally unique character. He was a convicted murderer. Through his music, he was able to free himself. He did not do only one type of music and, in fact, did not wish to be known as a blues singer. He sang about the hardships of life and he sang songs for children, influencing everybody from Woody Guthrie on. His importance will always be felt and his music will always resonate for anyone who experiences real human emotions.

Lead Belly’s song “Bourgeois Blues” is one of my favorites. It deals heavily with poverty and race, and it seems particularly relevant today in the U.S. with the decline of the middle class and the Black Lives Matter movement. What are your views on “Bourgeois Blues” and Lead Belly’s more topical material? Would you ever perform it? If so, would you keep it in first person or switch it to third?

I have not yet fully absorbed “Bourgeois Blues,” but Lead Belly influenced everybody to sing topical songs. His words are as powerful as ever — and just as relevant. That's because he sang about real life. Songs like that are needed now as much as they ever were. Nearly all of his songs dealt with poverty and race. In London, at Royal Albert Hall, I performed "In the Pines," and it was only after several performances that I began to see the meaning of the song in a different light — with "In the Pines" as a modern tale of love gone wrong, something like a domestic dispute.


Photo credit: Marianna Burdon

WATCH: Paul Burch, ‘Fast Fuse Blues’

Artist: Paul Burch
Hometown: Nashville, TN
Song: “Fast Fuse Blues” 
Album: Meridian Rising
Release Date: February 26
Label: Plowboy

In Their Words: "'Fast Fuse Blues' imagines Jimmie's [Rodgers] last visit to Coney Island — one of his favorite places to visit in New York. Jimmie was a frequent visitor, and there are several photographs taken of Jimmie enjoying the beach and boardwalk with his producer Ralph Peer and their families, as well as unknown female admirers. Jimmie visited Coney Island shortly before he died in May, 1933." — Paul Burch


Photo credit: Emily Beaver