Traveler: Your Guide to Montréal

“Hi, bonjour, hello,” is the greeting when you walk into any spot in the faux-Euro artsy port city of Montréal. This vibrant, French-speaking city is full of open-air markets, intricate architecture, vintage shops, and every kind of art. With just a quick hop over the U.S. border, English speakers may get cold feet upon arrival, but 56 percent of the population can speak English and French. Between Mont-Royal, the walkable streets of Old Port, and the array of diverse museums, you’ll want to pack your walking shoes, then refuel with the carb-heavy signature dishes of the city.

Getting There

Montréal has an international airport named for everyone’s favorite hunk of a prime minister’s dad: Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. It’s 12 miles from downtown and a quick city bus ride into town. Multiple railway lines service Montréal, including a daily Amtrak train to and from New York City. From Montréal, you can also hop on a train for a quick trip to Québec City or Toronto.

Accommodations

A variety of quality hostels, like Hi-Montreal in downtown or Auberge Saint-Paul in Old Port, range from $15-25 CAD for shared rooms to $85 CAD for private rooms. Most of them have free wi-fi, free breakfast, and an upscale European vibe, unlike many seedy American places that give hostels a bad rap. There are also plenty of Airbnb options and quaint hotels, if you’re looking to spend a little more. Check out Hotel Nelligan or W Montréal. Staying in or near downtown is a good idea, if you’re sans car.

Entrée Libre Attractions (Free Entry)

Just walking the streets of Montréal could take up a whole trip to the city. There’s also a lot to take in if you’re strapped for cash. Mont-Royal was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (Central Park, the Biltmore) and is a great people-watching spot, with lots of room to hike, bike, picnic, etc. Highlights include Beaver Lake, a chalet that overlooks downtown Montréal, and an old cemetery. It’s also home to Tam-Tams, weekly drum circles held on the lawn — a uniquely Montréal tradition.

Saint-Laurent Boulevard is peppered with murals, vintage shops, a stretch of Chinatown, clubs, and the best bagels you’ll ever eat.

Nerds will agree the Montréal Main Public Library is something special. The large, modern building is centrally located and is worth stopping by for a look. Plus, there’s an art gallery downstairs.

Montréal has some of the oldest buildings in North America, located near the port in Old Montréal. Bonsecours Market, Montréal City Hall, and Notre-Dame Basilica are among the buildings not to be missed. The 17th-century architecture borders Old Port, which is exactly what the name says — an old shipping port. Both areas are major tourist attractions, but worth the crowds. Parc La Fontaine in the Plateau also has a skating pond during the winter that is free.

Paid (and Worth It) Attractions

Getting lost in the Museum of Fine Arts is a must. Artists from Edmund Alleyn to Toulouse to Robert Mapplethorpe have recently been on display in this contemporary-leaning museum. It’s half-priced on Wednesday evenings and costs a well-worth-it $10-$14 CAD.

The Jardin Botanique is the second-largest botanical garden in the world. History buffs and plant lovers will both dig this spot, opened in 1931, featuring 10 greenhouses.

Music

Montréal’s music scene is plentiful and diverse. Catch Hillbilly Night at the Wheel Club , the Montréal Orchestra, or an indie band at myriad venues across town. Get fancy at the Theatre Rialto, a neo-baroque dinner theatre hosting all types of music, or visit La Sala Rossa and Casa Del Popolo, sister venues located across the street from each other — the latter is where Arcade Fire got their start. PDB Ritz, Club Soda, and Divan Orange are hipster haunts for live alternative music.

Eats

Get ready to carb load. Poutine, bagels, thick sandwiches … Montréal’s food scene is home to some heavy-hitting dishes. Highlights include:

Patati Patata — Best burger $2.75 can buy ya, tucked in a lively neighborhood.

Chez Broussard — Because you have to have poutine.

Tommy — The coffee scene is alive and well in Montréal, boasting homemade croissants almost as good as in Paris. Almost.

Local Marches are a trademark of the city’s culture. You’re sure to run into fresh produce, if you go during the Summer or Fall. Check out Jean-Talon Marche.

Getting Around

Montréal’s public transportation is award-winning. Four lines service 68 stations across town, allowing you to get to — or within walking distance of — almost anywhere in the city via metro, or bus the Société de transport de Montréal (STM) for $3.25 CAD/trip or $18 CAD/weekend. The city is easy to navigate, and there are plenty of ridesharing services available. They also have a network of rental bikes located throughout the city, if you’re feeling active.


Lede photo credit: szeke via Foter.com / CC BY-SA. All other photos by Josephine Wood.

Root 66: The Linemen’s Roadside Favorites

Names: Kevin Johnson and Jonathan Gregg (of the Linemen)
Hometowns: Van Buren, AR / New York, NY
Latest Project: The LinemenClose the Place Down

BBQ: 
KJ: Jones BBQ, Marianna, AR — More than a bit off the beaten path, serving BBQ like no other for over 100 years.
JG: Hard Eight, Stephenville, TX — In the middle of cowboy country … the exterior serving area is along the side of the building, with a long counter where a guy with a cleaver will cut you sausage by the yard, ribs, chicken, brisket, and two-inch-thick pork chops that they then dip in butter. Nuff said.

Roadhouse: 
KJ: The Sunset Grille, Annandale, VA — This has to be my choice, even though it closed in 2012. Beer in pitchers, bikers, and Bill Kirchen tearing it up. Cannot be topped.
JG: Blue Moon Saloon, Lafayette, LA — A venue and boarding house all in one in this magical, sultry little outpost. That extra drink is never a problem when you're playing about 30 feet as the crow flies from where you're going to sleep.

Coffeehouse: 
KJ: Red Emma's, Baltimore, MD — The ultimate leftist coffee hang. Not recommended for Trump apologists.
JG: Heine Bros., Louisville, KY — Great joe and a good place to while away some hours, which also connects to Carmichael's, an excellent bookstore.

Dive Bar:
KJ: Mount Washington Tavern, Baltimore, MD — Open after the apocalypse. With mediocre pizza that tastes amazing when consumed at 1 am.
JG: Nick-a-Nees, Providence, RI — In a town with a storied history of dive bars, this place has the vibes and a very game audience to go with the fine music they present. Check out Mark Cutler when he plays there.

Record Store:
KJ: The True Vine, Baltimore, MD — The end of the line for vinyl geeks. If you recognize what they're spinning when you come in, you may be offered a job.
JG: Amoeba, Berkeley, CA — One of a dying breed, a veritable bazaar of waxings of all vintages. You could spend hours.

Gear Shop:
KJ: Appalachian Bluegrass, Frederick, MD — Was told by multiple "certified" repairmen over a 12-year period that my 1969 Martin D35 was beyond repair. These guys said, "It will be ready next Wednesday." And it was.
JG: Guitar Emporium, Louisville, KY — Good stuff at good prices, run by cool cats in a cool town.

 

Taco truck across the street from 2A in Manhattan. The best in the city. #masterofnone #tacotruck #treehouse2a

A photo posted by The Linemen (@thelinemen_official) on

Listening Room:
KJ: The Village Vanguard, NYC — Want to know exactly what it was like when Coltrane played there in 1962? It's still exactly the same. Drinks only.
JG: Tom Clark's Treehouse at 2A, NYC — TC's labor of love is one of the hippest scenes in Manhattan on Sunday nights. Great sound, great bands, wonderful host, and no cover.

House Concert:
KJ: Club 603, Baltimore — Have seen everyone from Vandaveer to the Bottle Rockets in this intimate, acoustically perfect safe haven for greatness.
JG: Boudin Dan's, Peace Dale, RI — Dan and his wife are incredibly gracious and dedicated to presenting music in the most agreeable way for both the artist and the audience. I wish there were hundreds more like them.

Highway Stretch:
KJ: I-40 from Memphis to Little Rock — Feel what is beyond the emptiness.
JG: Blue Ridge Parkway, NC — Breathtaking. Just don't drive a vehicle with a commercial logo on it or a kindly trooper will steer you to the next exit.

Car Game:
KJ: Make Jonathan like Hall & Oates deep tracks.
JG: Making Kevin laugh. Since I don't drive, I have to make myself useful somehow.

Day Off Activity:
KJ: Back Alley Dice in nearest back alley.
JG: Practicing. They don't call it "playing" for nothing.

Driving Album:
KJ: Freedy Johnston, Can You Fly?
JG: NRBQ, At Yankee Stadium — There is no mood that America's most underrated band can't improve, "any old time …"

A Minute In the Pioneer Valley with Parsonsfield

Welcome to "A Minute In …" — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Parsonsfield takes us on a tour of the book mills and coffee shops of Pioneer Valley town Leverett, Massachusetts.

Usually when you tell someone you live in Leverett (unless they are in the Pioneer Valley, also known as the scenic I-91 corridor), they’ve never heard of it. The town is about 23 miles of mostly trails, ponds, and trees. Amongst these mysterious woods, we have found a few hidden gems we’d love to share with you. We’re proud to call this area our home. When you get to the Lady Killigrew, tell the staff that Parsonsfield sent you.

The Montague Book Mill: Their slogan says it all: “Books you don’t need in a place you can’t find." Once a grist mill, this unique building on the banks of the Sawmill River has been converted into a used book store, along with several other places to hang. Be careful: You may end up spending your entire day here. We certainly have. People have been known to make the 90-minute drive from the Boston area just to hang out here.

The Lady Killigrew: Step through a door in the book store and enter the absolute best spot for nitro-iced coffee and great sandwiches in a laid-back environment. Grab a table by the window and enjoy a relaxing morning overlooking the babbling stream below. If you go on a day we’re not touring, we’re probably already here. 

Turn It Up: Now that you’re all buzzed up on caffeine, walk across the courtyard to the record store. Although their other locations are a little bigger, somehow you always find something cool here.  

Lake Wyola State Park: If you’re here in the Summer, you can have a beach day without driving to the coast — our favorite spot in the area for a swim and a picnic.  

Peace Pagoda: “… A visible form of prayer for inseparable peace in the world and within the minds of all humanity.” Built in 1985, this is the first Peace Pagoda in North America and the one place you should not miss if you happen to be in Leverett. We’d rather not reveal its mystery, so take the short hike from the parking area to the top of the hill and enjoy what you see.

The Fretted Instrument Workshop: We think this may come of interest to some people who read a site that has the word bluegrass in it. Stop in for an unbelievable selection of new and vintage guitars, banjos, mandolins, and a few stranger instruments. This is where we bring our instruments for repairs, after we’ve rocked them a little too hard on tour. Tony will set you up with something real nice.

High Horse Brewery: As rock 'n' roll goes, our band is mostly filled with lightweight squares when it comes to drinking. In our first years of touring, we realized, if we take advantage of all the free booze at shows, we may sometimes wake up the next morning freezing cold, alone, and still on stage at a festival … That’s a story for a different outlet. However, when we’re at home, we like to whet our whistles here. Go upstairs to play some pool or downstairs for some great food. Either floor you choose, they’ve got great beer and cocktails.

 

After cruising through the Pioneer Valley, head down to Brooklyn and hit Victoria Reed's hot spots.


Lede photo by Shervin Lainez. All other photos by Parsonsfield, except High Horse photo by Brittany Ciullo. 

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Traveler: Your Guide to Burlington

Burlington, Vermont, has a lot to offer besides Bernie, Phish, and Ben & Jerry’s. This small, hippie town is a healthy, friendly, and affordable getaway located in the northwest corner of the state on the coast of Lake Champlain — a college town at heart with a lot to offer besides schooling. Food, coffee, and art run deep in Burlington. Where else can you do yoga overlooking a wild salmon hole, sip a local Smoked Vermont Maple Syrup latte, and happen upon a knitting club/bluegrass jam combo night at the local bar?

Getting There

An oddly relaxed small spot with rocking chairs to lounge while you wait, Burlington International Airport is almost as charming as the city. The airport is a 12-minute cab ride from downtown. Beware: There is an Uber shortage in Burlington and Lyft does not service the area, so having the number of a local cab company comes in handy. There’s also a Greyhound station located in the airport. (Pro tip: It’s a quick bus ride to Montreal.)

Accommodations

Burlington has plenty of charming bed and breakfasts like Lang House, Made INN Vermont, and One of a Kind Bed and Breakfast. Airbnb also has 300+ affordable options averaging around $150 per night. The town also has a hostel — for backpackers passing through — which runs $40 per night. Just a couple miles northeast of the city is a suburb called Winooski, which is a hip haven full of places to stay for a bit cheaper.

Eats

Burlington is a vegetarian’s dream and, with places like Revolution Kitchen, Onion River Co-op, and Pingala Café, any carnivore would be happy, too. Chittenden County is a refugee resettlement area, which means there’s a multitude of great cuisines and people from African countries, Nepal, Vietnam, Tibet, and Bhutan. Spice Trader’s Kitchen and Tiny Thai are a few authentic and cheap ethnic eats.

Breakfast is the meal not to be missed. With menus sporting homemade rye bread, Vermont maple syrup on every table, and gingerbread pancakes, Sneakers and Penny Cluse are two spots widely agreed upon as the best breakfast spots in town. And, if you’re feeling it, grab Ben & Jerry’s Vermont-only flavor — Vermonsters — from the factory up the road for breakfast.

Coffee

Every town has their ode to the hipster coffee shop, and Burlington has no shortage. Check out Scout & Co. for their Smoked Vermont Maple Latte , Radio Bean for great coffee into the night, and Muddy Waters to grab espresso featuring some light reading — patrons hide notes in the stone walls.

Drinks

Light Club Lamp Shop, an old lighting shop turned bar, has a bluegrass jam and knitting club on Wednesday nights — a killer combo of local flavor — with fancy pants cocktails. Plus, it’s attached to Radio Bean, if you’re feeling a late-night espresso stop. Oak45 is a go-to for quiet after-dinner drinks; Mule Bar has the best selection of Vermont ciders; and Vermont Pub & Brewery will satiate the craft brew fans.

Music

Higher Ground is one of the largest music venues in Vermont, drawing big artists to Burlington with its double-room capacity. Signal Kitchen brings a lot of smaller, traveling indie and alternative bands to the area, as well as better-known local bands. And, in the middle of downtown, Burlington Records is one heck of vintage vinyl haven, with old show posters galore.

Outdoors

Perhaps Burlington’s crown jewel is the view of Lake Champlain framed by the mountains. Grab a bike from the non-profit rental shop, Local Motion, and hit the many bike paths in town which showcase the natural beauty of Vermont. Waterfront Park is a great place to take a stroll and make a balancing rock formation on the rock beach, alongside many others.

If you’re looking to do a quick day hike, Shelburne Farms is close by and definitely worth the 15-minute drive. Established as a non-profit to teach people about sustainability, Shelburne has activities for the whole family like cheese-making tours, hayrides, hiking along Lake Champlain, and huge vegetable gardens.

Art

Burlington City Arts Center is a three-story, free contemporary art museum in downtown, featuring local Vermont artists. Head to Arts Riot for local art, food, and live music, and take a stroll through South End to explore art studios galore.

Shopping

Church Street Marketplace is a pedestrian-only shopping spot in the middle of downtown, featuring many locally owned spots and street performers on the weekend. Phoenix Books, a great indie bookstore with handwritten recommendations from their employees, is also just around the corner. For the vintage collector, Jamba’s Junktiques is the hippest junk shop outside of Austin.

Root 66: Jared and the Mill’s Roadside Favorites

Name: Jared and the Mill
Hometown: Phoenix, AZ
Latest Project: Orme Dugas

Tacos: La Santisima — 120 % — in Phoenix, AZ.

Burger: Dick's Burgers in Seattle, WA.

Roadside Diner: All of them. Every one of them is a beautiful, unique flower.

Truck Stop: Chiriaco Summit! (Somewhere between Phoenix and Los Angeles …)

Coffee House: Too hard to say. There are so many rad cafés with different styles across the world.

Dive Bar: There’s a place in Appleton, WI, that serves a Snowball, which is like a Christmas-y White Russian, ice-blended.

Book Shop: Myopic Books in Chicago, IL.

Backstage Hang: Life If Beautiful festival in Las Vegas!! They brought in a chef that cooked whole pigs over a charcoal fire and iron cross — and life has never been the same.

Highway Stretch: The I-17 coming down from Flagstaff to Phoenix is the most incredible welcome home we could ever ask for, always a sight for sore eyes.

Day Off Activity: We do something we call “Peeping the Scene” which basically means we go to a cool part of town and split up to poke around and find cool cafés, bookshops, bars, pool halls, bars, vintage shops, bars, and bars.

Tour Hobby: We learn … a lot. We read, we listen to podcasts, we observe, we talk about different cultures, and we grow with one another. It’s a really exciting way to live.

Record Store: Amoeba Music in L.A. is the mother load. It’s so much more than a record store: It’s an important part of American counter-culture. It’s a badass shirt shop. It’s a meeting place. It’s a beautiful venue. It’s everything you could ask for and more.

3X3: Chris Staples on Paul Newman, Deion Sanders, and Jerry Reed

Artist: Chris Staples
Hometown: Pensacola, FL
Latest Album: Golden Age
Personal Nicknames: Stapes, Bunzoli, Staple Back, Alphonso Bunzoli, Buns

 

Picked up a few straglers for our drive to albuquerque. Playing at low sprits tonight with @rockyvotolato

A photo posted by Chris Staples (@chrisstaplesyo) on

What song do you wish you had written?
"Guitar Man" by Jerry Reed

If money were no object, where would you live and what would you do?
I would have a ranch somewhere, maybe in Oregon or Washington. Have a bunch of guest houses, a fishing pond, and a studio.

If the After-Life exists, what song will be playing when you arrive? 
"Don’t Take Away My Heaven" by Aaron Neville

How often do you do laundry?
My girlfriend does my laundry every day. I tell her not to, but she just likes doing laundry, I guess.

What was the last movie that you really loved?
I’m not sure that I loved it, but that new movie Green Room is pretty rattling.  I absolutely love the classic movie The Hustler with Paul Newman.

What's your favorite culinary spice? 
Basil

 

Man Seeking Palo Santo.

A photo posted by Chris Staples (@chrisstaplesyo) on

Morning person or night owl?
Night owl, of course.

Who is your favorite Sanders — Bernie or Colonel?
Deion

Coffee or tea?
Coffee by a long shot.


Photo credit: Jenny Jimenez

Traveler: Your Guide to Raleigh

Coined the "Research Triangle," the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area is a hotbed of creativity and invention located in the northeast central region of North Carolina. As one giant “college town” encompassing North Carolina State University, Duke University, and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Triangle has nurtured indie rock, punk, hip-hop, metal, and, of course, roots music. Historically, North Carolina has played a key role in the long-standing tradition of bluegrass and old-time, which makes it the perfect setting for the World of Bluegrass homecoming.

Getting There

Just 20 minutes from downtown Raleigh, the Raleigh-Durham International Airport is the main airport serving the Triangle. Ground transportation is provided by the airport tax service, the Triangle Transit Authority, and local shuttle companies. Cab fare is an estimated $30, but hotels typically offer their own shuttle services to and from the airport. For non-flight options, try Amtrak or Megabus.

Lodging

Outdoor lounge area at the Umstead Hotel and Spa

The Umstead Hotel and Spa is technically in Cary, North Carolina, just five minutes from the Raleigh-Durham International Airport. Set on 12 acres of land with a lake and wooded gardens, this is a luxury option for travelers looking for some R&R in their down time. For something more affordable, an Airbnb search pulls up over 300 listings in the Raleigh area, ranging from historic homes to downtown condos.

Coffee

A delicate pour at 42 & Lawrence

Located in the new Skyhouse building in downtown Raleigh, organic coffee bar 42 & Lawrence is a must. This inventive coffeehouse comes complete with a row of taps and a juice rail for pressed juice on-site. Some of the tap offerings include kombucha, cold brew coffee, nitro cold brew, and experiments like the “draft latte” (a mixture of cold brew coffee, Jersey cow milk, and housemade vanilla syrup) and a “Black and Tan” (cold brew coffee combined with the draft latte).

Food

Dining room at Death + Taxes restaurant

Since moving to Raleigh, Chef Ashley Christensen has carved out a niche refining Southern comfort food. Each new venture she opens is even more anticipated than the last, so it’s worth stopping by any of her establishments while you’re in town. Opened back in 2007, Poole’s Diner was one of downtown Raleigh’s first restaurants, while Joule Coffee + Table combines Durham-based Counter Culture coffee with moderately priced Southern fare. If you’re looking for a fine dining option, one of the latest offerings from AC Restaurants, Death + Taxes, is your go-to. It’s a culinary playground where octopus is an appetizer and “foraged and ‘fought for’ mushrooms” soaked in sherry and brown sugar is an entree.

Drink

Front room at the Raleigh Beer Garden

The aptly named Raleigh Beer Garden is three stories high and boasts the world’s largest draft beer selection in one restaurant. With over 350 beers on tap, there’s a sizable amount of North Carolina craft beers. A large tree extends to the ceiling in the front room, so you get that natural feel even from indoors. But it wouldn’t be a beer garden without an outdoor space and, with a patio and rooftop, there’s plenty to go around.

The brand new Whiskey Kitchen in downtown Raleigh’s Nash Square specializes in — you guessed it — whiskey. But there are beer and wine offerings, too, along with a dinner menu. The site of an old automotive shop, the bar has large garage doors and an open kitchen. Exposed brick walls and ceiling pipes, along with a wall-spanning mural by local artist Taylor White, lends the space an air that’s one part industrial and one part Southern comfort.

Shopping

Mid-century seats at Father & Son Antiques

Whether you’re on the hunt for designer steals or kitsch novelty, Father & Son Antiques has you covered. The West Hargett Street shop has become a destination for locals and out-of-towners alike, notorious for its stock of highly coveted mid-century modern furniture and accessories at moderate prices. It’s chock full of other goodies, too: vintage clothing, books, and, most importantly, records.

Music Venues

Koka Booth Amphitheater in Cary

While North Carolina is a breeding ground for roots music, it’s also home to a wider array of genres from hip-hop to punk to metal. In order to accommodate all of this diversity, the Triangle is equipped with venues of all shapes and sizes. As far as larger, outdoor venues, there’s Red Hat Amphitheater in downtown Raleigh, Walnut Creek Amphitheater, and the picturesque Koka Booth Amphitheater in Cary. For a more local vibe, check out the Pour House Music Hall in Moore Square Art District in downtown Raleigh, Cat’s Cradle in Carrboro, or the Pinhook in Durham.

Local Flavor

The pools at NCMA

The North Carolina Museum of Art (NCMA) is a behemoth of artistic innovation in itself. This month, it was selected as one of the top 125 most important works of architecture built since 1891 by Architectural Record. This free admission museum is home to contemporary art, works from the European Renaissance, Greek and Roman vases, and American art from the 18th through the 20th centuries. It also hosts concerts, films, classes, and performances. In the midst of a $13 million expansion, the museum’s outdoor park boasts 164 acres and is accentuated by landscaped sculpture gardens, courtyards, and reflecting pools.


Lede photo: Durant Nature Preserve. Photo credit: rharrison via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

3×3: Mo Kenney on Saving Guitars, Climbing Trees, and Loving Summer

Artist: Mo Kenney
Hometown: Dartmouth, NS
Latest Album: In My Dreams
Personal Nicknames: Mos, Moses, Moo, Pickle

 

Glasgow is lookin good this morning

A photo posted by Ko Menney (@mookenney) on

Your house is burning down and you can grab only one thing — what would you save?
I'd save my acoustic guitar. It's a 1930s Hensel parlor … I'd be devastated to lose it.

If you weren't a musician, what would you be?
I'd be a hermit/carpenter and I would be living in the woods somewhere alone. If I could be an Olympic tree climber, that would be neat, too.

If a song started playing every time you entered the room, what would you want it to be? 
"Gangsters Paradise" 

 

Pic from Bowie show the other night by Anthony Conrod

A photo posted by Ko Menney (@mookenney) on

What is the one thing you can’t survive without on tour? 
Coffee. Very important in the mornings, and keeping me energized. Touring can be very tiring.

If you were a car, what car would you be? 
I'd be a dark green '70s Mercedes Benz.  

Who is your favorite superhero?
Batman

 

Backstage in Austria

A photo posted by Ko Menney (@mookenney) on

Vinyl or digital?
Vinyl!!

Dylan or Townes? 
Dylan

Summer or winter? 
Summer!


Photo credit: Matt Williams

Traveler: Your Guide to Winnipeg

The license plates say “Friendly Manitoba” and they are not wrong. Manitoba is one of Canada’s oldest provinces. It is full of lakes, rivers, music, history, and culture — and Winnipeg is the capital city and hub of all the action. The winters are frigid but, come summer, it’s a hot, bustling city full of patios, festivals, and good times. Winnipeg is home to legendary musical talents like Neil Young, Bachman-Turner Overdrive, the Guess Who, and the Crash Test Dummies, and it continues to foster amazing talent like the Weakerthans, Begonia, and Royal Canoe. So it is no surprise the Winnipeg Folk Festival draws over 60,000 visitors each year during its four-day celebration of international musicians. If you are coming to Winnipeg for the Folk Festival, do yourself a favor and stay a few extra days so you can check out the abundance this city truly has to offer.

Getting There

The James Armstrong Richardson Airport is the only commercial airport and is new, sunny and has a Hug Rug at the arrivals gate. The other option for getting to Winnipeg is Canada’s national railway — Via Rail — arriving at the historic and beautiful Union Station. Taking the train in Canada takes a lot longer than flying, but is a stunning way to travel and really experience the vastness of the country and its ever-changing scenery from province to province.

Lodging

Photo courtesy of the Fairmont Hotel

The Fairmont Hotel is a luxury option located in the heart of Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District. Connected to the underground PATH system to avoid the frigid cold in the winter months, the Fairmont has modern, beautiful rooms and is minutes from shopping and restaurants, as well as a short walk from one of Winnipeg’s main tourist sites — the Forks. A less expensive, newer, and very hip alternative is the Mere Hotel in the downtown core. A comfortable stay with a modern, clean, and bright feel, this hotel is family-friendly and smells amazing upon entering.

Coffee

Photo courtesy of Parlour Coffee.

Parlour Coffee is a staple for caffeine connoisseurs in Winnipeg. Located on Main Street, this bare bones coffee shop doesn’t have wifi and encourages you to, instead, speak to your neighbor. If you find yourself in trendy Osborne Village, you’ll want to hit up Little Sister Coffee Maker on River which was voted best coffee in Winnipeg by a local panel of expert judges.

Food

Photo courtesy of Segovia Tapas Bar

Winnipeg has one of the highest restaurant counts per capita in the country, so your choices are endless. One hot spot is Segovia, a Spanish tapas restaurant with an ever-changing menu and one of the coolest patios in the city. There is also Fusion Grill on Academy for fine dining with locally sourced ingredients. If you want to truly be like the locals, I recommend joining the queue for brunch or lunch at one of the eight Stella’s café locations serving up homemade jams, breads, and soups. Finally, you can’t visit Winnipeg without hitting up the Bridge Drive-In for an ice cream dessert that is totally worth the crazy line up. (The locals will give you bonus points if you refer to it as the BDI and order the infamous Goog.)

Drink

Photo courtesy of the Fort Garry Hotel

Built in 1913 and since designated as a National Historic Site of Canada, the Fort Garry Hotel boasts the opulent Palm Lounge. The wide selection of spirits and wines will bring you in, but the stunning architecture and historic feel will keep you there. It is rumored that the hotel is haunted, so if you see a ghost, it may not just be the cocktails. If you’re looking for a pub feel, head to Bailey’s for their large selection of beers on tap and English pub fare. Lovers of wine will enjoy Peasant Cookery in the Exchange District — go on a Tuesday for discounts on bottles. And, if it’s beer you fancy, stroll down to the Kingshead Pub with two floors, live entertainment, and over 30 beers on tap.

Shopping

Photo courtesy of the Exchange District

The Exchange District is one of Winnipeg’s most historic areas and hosts some of the city’s best boutique shops — be sure to check out Ordnry and the Haberdashery Guys & Girls. Osborne Village is another great area where you’ll find a strip of shops with one of a kind apparel and housewares. Walk into Rooster Shoes only if your suitcase has room for new kicks. The spot to find luxury and high quality fashion labels is Danali with a knowledgeable team of staff, some of whom are designers themselves.

Music

Photo courtesy of Times Change(d)

Winnipeg is a town full of amazing music. Top venues include the Park Theatre, which is known for putting on amazing shows from music to comedy to movies with live commentary. One of Winnipeg’s well-known dive bars is the Times Change(d) High and Lonesome Club. Don’t let the rough exterior fool you — this tiny joint regularly hosts some of the best nights of nitty gritty music in the city. The Good Will in the downtown core is another great place for live music, tasty pizza, and a chill atmosphere in which to party with the locals. If you come in the summer, visit the outdoor stage called “The Cube” at Old Market Square where urban festivals like Winnipeg Jazz Festival, the Fringe Festival, and Soca Reggae happen.

Local Flavor

Photo courtesy of Winnipeg Folk Festival

A mix of many cultures old and new, Winnipeg is extremely diverse with residents from all over the globe. Celebrating this is one of the longest cultural festivals in the world called Folklorama, which takes place over two weeks in the summer. The Winnipeg Folk Festival is not to be missed with camping, music, and art only 10 minutes away from the city center at the Birds Hill Provincial Park. Or, take a day trip to Grand Beach — about an hour outside the city — and bask in the sun on the infamous white sand. If you prefer to stay in the city, check out the restaurants and entertainment in the French quarter called St. Boniface, take a tour of the legislative building downtown, or head down to the Forks, an historic site where the Red and Assiniboine Rivers met and where the fur trade business thrived in early Canada. And a visit to Winnipeg isn’t complete without spending time at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights with its controversial and stunning architecture and affecting exhibits.


Lede photo credit: AJ Batac via Source / CC BY.

Root 66: SHEL’s Roadside Favorites

Name: SHEL
Hometown: Fort Collins, CO * Attached photos from farm in Fort Collins
Latest Project: Just Crazy Enough

Driving album: Sting, Fields of Gold — an indisputable band favorite that brings peace and harmony during trying eight-hour drives.

Tacos: Dam Good Tacos in Fort Collins, Colorado. They skirt the tacos with crispy cheese and their horchata is the best we’ve ever had.

Burger: Burger Up in Nashville, Tennessee. Farm to table, healthy, yum yum … and occasional celebrity bartenders.

Health Food: Apple sauce … it's extra healthy if it comes in a pouch!

Truck Stop: LOVE's (located all over the U.S.) cause it seems like they care … or, maybe it's just the name.

Coffeehouse: Ghost Town in Telluride, Colorado.

Record Store: Bizarre Bazaar in Fort Collins, Colorado. A literal treasure trove with used record players and spare parts. Eva scored a sweet pair of Technics there that she brags about too often.

Listening Room: St. Pancras Old Church in London, UK

Airport: Denver International Airport — it's always an adventure!

 

Tour life.

A photo posted by SHEL (@iloveshelmusic) on

Highway Stretch: HWY 299 through Shasta Trinity National Park between Redding and Eureka, California. 

Radio Station: All stations playing our songs 😉 We especially enjoy interviews with NPR because they have a designated "cough button."

Day Off Activity: 
Sarah: We often take advantage of any day or morning off to film videos. Most recently we shot in Alaska for our “Enter Sandman” video. 
Hannah: Climbing on a rock wall … far away from cell phones and computers.
Eva: Thrift store shopping! Because thriftiness is like a super power, and nothing beats an affordable, unique find in a new city. 
Liza: Hiking whenever possible. Last road adventure was in the Red Wood Forest where Star Wars' Battle of Endor was filmed.