Tag: drink

Traveler: Louisville

Posted on by Editor

Loo-a-vul, Lou-e-ville, Loo-a-ville, Looey-ville: Ask a local and you might get mixed responses on the correct pronunciation of its name, but anyway you spin it, the city boasts a lot more than their slugger. Louisville is proving itself as a destination, not just a stop along Highway 65. In addition to the unmistakably Kentucky traditions of bourbon and basketball, the town has a storied cultural history, a thriving food culture, and an evolving music scene. Derbies and juleps are great, but we did a deep dive of Louisville’s local spots.

Getting There

Smack dab in the middle of the eastern U.S., Louisville’s geography lends itself well to a quick weekend trip from various surrounding cities, like Nashville (two+ hours), Cincinnati (four hours), and St. Louis (four hours). Take the Bourbon Trail through Lexington to Louisville or, if you’re feeling ambitious, bike it. Louisville International Airport is 10 minutes from downtown.

Accommodations

Photo credit: Seelbach Hilton

If you like your accommodations with a side of cocktails and modern art, check out the 21C Hotel. If a hotel with an art museum isn’t in your budget, you should still stop by for cocktails and art browsing. For the lit nerds, F. Scott Fitzgerald hung around the Seelbach Hilton’s bar, meeting a gangster who inspired his socialite character, Jay Gatsby, in The Great Gatsby.

Eats

Photo credit: Rye on Market

UPS is headquartered in the town, so local chefs have extra speedy access to fresh ingredients overnighted, thus fostering a killer food scene. From restaurants which have endured the times — like Jack Fry’s — to new kids on the block — like Rye — Louisville’s food scene is rooted in Southern food with a finger on the contemporary foodie pulse. Chef Edward Lee’s 610 Magnolia is also a great choice for a fancy meal that’s worth it.

Drinks

Photo: Please & Thank You

Bourbon. And lots of it. Declared “America’s Official Native Spirit,” more than 95 percent of the world’s bourbon is distilled and aged in Kentucky. Downtown Louisville has a free Urban Bourbon Trail, which consists of bars which all serve at least 50 different kinds of bourbon. For the hops enthusiasts, Falls City Brewery is in the midst of reinventing itself and has been a Louisville staple for years. Apocalypse Brewing has quality brews made in an environmentally conscious process and a Yappy Hour for you and your pup.

For your coffee fix, Quill’s Coffee and Please & Thank You will fit the hip coffee bill of big cities. Head to the back of Please & Thank You to shop for records, while you sip their Thai iced coffee and eat “Louisville’s Best Chocolate Chip Cookie.” Wander over to Bardstown Road for local shops, food, and bars in one spot.

Cultural Sights

Photo credit: Muhammad Ali Center

Pay homage to the greatest of all time at the Muhammad Ali Center, a spot well worth the $12 price tag. It’s just as much about civil rights as it is his career, plus we could all take a cue from his motto, and the museum’s tagline: “Be great. Do great things.” It’s not open on Mondays and has spotty hours, so check before you go.

If you’re planning on geeking out on museums, consider getting “The Main Ticket,” which bundles admission to six downtown Louisville attractions, including the Frazier History Museum, Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft, Kentucky Science Center, KentuckyShow!, Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory, and the Muhammad Ali Center for 30 bucks.

On top of that, the Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest is a great day hang and hosts all kinds of nerdy plant events, like wildflower walks and updates on the American Woodcocks’ nesting.

Photo credit: louisvillemegacavern.org

Louisville Mega Cavern boasts the world’s only underground zipline. Yep, that’s a thing, and they’ve got six of them which run year round.

Music

Louisville’s upped its festival game with Forecastle every July, and Bourbon And Beyond in September. If you’re looking for low-key, down-home Kentucky bluegrass, look no further than Barret Bar. For bluegrass with your bloody mary, check out the Monkey Wrench. Louisville’s quirky Zanzabar brings under the radar artists to their pinball arcade/venue combo, and has been open since the ’30s.

Lede photo credit: Scott Oves

Red Cabbage Salad With Marcona Almonds & Blue Cheese

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Tasting new foods with people I love accounts for many of my favorite memories. I think of baking a pie with my dear friend Shannon, after we were inspired by the “Pie-Maker” from a show called Pushing Daisies. It was filled with a white chocolate ganache, orange zest, macadamia nuts, and a drizzle of dark chocolate on top. It was delicious and whimsical.

Before my husband and I were anything, we were friends who constantly talked about food and music. (Okay, so maybe we liked each other, but neither of us said anything for a while.) Once, he came over to help record some demos of my songs. Afterward, we decided to make eggs benedict for dinner. In case you were wondering, it is challenging to poach eggs while trying to appear cool and casual in front of for the person you are falling for.

Still today, we spend a lot of time in the kitchen together. We eat at home more often than not, but every now and then, we love to save up and go somewhere really wonderful. Last month, it was new restaurant called Barcalona. We were hesitant to go, partially because it is somewhat of a chain and partially because we have been dissapointed by many hip-looking restaurants that have sprung up in Nashville. I am happy to report that the food is original, delicious, and resonablly priced. The wine choices are available in half glasses, which is wonderful news for the kind of person who wants to try everything.

One particular dish we had stole the show: a salad with cabbage, hazelnuts, pears, and a Spanish blue cheese called Valdeón. It was a perfect combination of flavor and texture. We decided we wanted to try try and replicate it. The tricky thing about recipes like this is that they seem simple, but can be difficult to execute. Still, I think my recipe turned out pretty damn good!

I used Marcona almonds instead of hazelnuts, simply because they are the food of the gods. I also added quinoa and roasted broccoli for some added texture and heartiness. 

I recommend pairing this salad with My Piece of Land by Amanda Shires.

Ingredients

For the salad:
1/4 head of cabbage
2 cups cooked quinoa 
4 cups water or vegetable broth 
4 oz blue cheese crumbled
16 oz cups broccoli florets 
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning 
1/2 cup marcona almonds 
1 pear thinly sliced pear, or 1/4 cup golden raisins if you can’t find a good pear
2 TB olive oil

For the vinaigrette:
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Begin by turning the oven to 350. Place broccoli on roasting pan. Drizzle with about two tablespoons of olive oil. Mix with your hands and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt and a few cracks of pepper. Place in oven for about 30 minutes. Chop cabbage into longs strips, and then cut those in half, so they are shorter in length. Slice pear thinly.

Next, rince the quinoa until the water becomes clear. Combine quinoa with broth or water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until water is absorbed and quinoa is tender, about 15 minutes. While that cooks, blend the vinaigrette ingredients together.

Once the quinoa and broccoli are cooled, layer a serving plate with cabbage, quinoa, blue cheese, almonds, and broccoli. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad and serve at room tempurature or after being chilled for 30 minutes. 

Traveler: Your Guide to Marfa, Texas

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A six-hour drive to one stop light in the middle of West Texas has never seemed more appealing until the quaint, artsy town of Marfa, Texas, began to blossom. Drink a Lonestar with a cowboy, see the Marfa lights, and get your artistry on with teeming inspiration in the middle of this changing desert town with a population of 2,121. With little to no nightlife, vegetation that looks like you stepped into a Dr. Seuss story, and a clear desert sky, Marfa is a quite the getaway.

Getting There

Photo credit: ballroommarfa.org

If you’re feeling a road trip through West Texas, take the six-hour drive from Austin, or fly into El Paso’s International Airport and head southeast for about three hours. Midland Airport is also a three-hour drive. Since Marfa is so rural, it’s quite the haul from larger cities in Texas.

Accommodations

Photo courtesy of El Cosmico

If you’re looking to meet other artists (like Queen Bey) and really #liveauthentic, El Cosmico is an 18-acre trailer, tent, and teepee hotel with a hammock grove made for artist meetups. The Hotel Paisano is a restored hotel with original architecture, plus an outdoor restaurant and pool. Thunderbird Hotel is also beloved, with its 1950s minimalist chic vibe. Plus, the top 20 highest-rated Airbnbs in town range from airstream trailers to boats on dry land to “Modern + Minimal” homes.

Eats & Drinks

A hippie meets a cowboy at a local dive for a Lonestar kinda atmosphere, Marfa’s food and drink scene runs the gamut from trippy grilled cheese spots to food trucks to breakfast tacos. Many places are cash only, so be sure to check before you go. Hours are spotty at all of Marfa’s restaurants, but you can take comfort in the fact that Stripes is open 24-7.

Thunderbird Café has gourmet sandwiches, fried chicken, and fluffy biscuits making for a solid lunch spot. Marfa Burrito’s breakfast burritos are a hallmark of the scene, and you can get your fancy coffee fix at Do Your Thing, alongside homemade sourdough toast, unique porridge specials, and Four Barrell Coffee. Grilled Cheese Parlour is filled with 1950s TVs serving late-night grilled cheeses, and Food Shark is an airstream serving tasty Marfalafel and other mediterranean food. Boys2Men is a renowned food truck specializing in breakfast tacos, and Chochineal has an upscale brunch, specializing in Tex-inspired fare like chilaquiles.

Sight Seeing

Photo credit: Lauren Swedenborg

Most shops, restaurants, and galleries are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan to take it easy or go exploring outside of town those days. There are two grocery stores and two ATMs in town, so consider bringing snacks and cash with you. Thirty minutes outside of town near Valentine, Texas, lies Marfa’s most recognizable marker: Prada Marfa. A permanent art exhibition co-produced by Ballroom Marfa, this Insta-worthy freestanding store is disorienting as you peek through the glass windows to see the fall 2005 Prada collection … in the middle of West Texas.

Speaking of Ballroom Marfa, their gallery is the town’s go-to for art — especially their immersive video installations. Pretty much every part of town has been converted into a makeshift art gallery, so there’s always eye (and brain!) candy like this installation in the front room of Big Bend Coffee Roaster, “The Listening.”

Photo credit: Maria Perry

If you’re into the unknown — and possibly extraterrestrial — try to catch the Marfa Lights along Route 67, which are unexplained beams of bright lights that flicker across the horizon 10 to 20 times per year. Or just stick with regular ol’ stargazing, sans light pollution, at one of McDonald Observatory’s Star Parties to see the stars in the rural country, 40 minutes from Marfa.

Shopping

Photo credit: Maria Perry

Marfa’s shops have the bare hipster essentials: gemstones, cowboy boots, vintage clothes, and books. At Moonlight Gemstones, you can buy Himalayan pink sea salt by the pound, plus handmade jewelry. The Marfa Book Company doubles as an art gallery and performance space and has been in business for 20 years, located in the Hotel Saint George. Cobra Rock Boot Company makes one handmade pair of ankle boots in many variations. Seeing a theme? Marfa fosters artists. And then there’s Ranch Dressing — a vintage pop-up shop with a bounty of carefully curated used apparel.

Restaurants, shops and bars change often with artists coming and going, so be sure to check marfalist.org, the minimalist site Marfa locals use to stay up-to-date with the most recent changes.

Lede image: One of Donald Judd’s concrete pieces at the Chinati Foundation in Marfa, Texas. Photo credit: K Bennett.

Traveler: Your Guide to Washington D.C.

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If you’re not swearing off our nation’s capital until 2020, we’re here to help you avoid the tourist traps in Washington, D.C. Full of free museums, bustling nightlife, ethnic eats, and a diverse population, Washington D.C. offers reaffirmation of the fabric of our nation in a time of division.

Getting There

The airport situation might be the hardest part about getting to Washington, D.C. since the District itself is a no-fly zone for all commercial airlines. With all of the airports on the outskirts, you’ll want to choose carefully the closest one to your accommodations. Ronald Reagan/DCA has Metro access and is the closest to the city center, Dulles is a 40-minute ride to town, and Baltimore/Washington International is close to an hour away from D.C. proper, but is accessible via city bus. Getting around with no car is doable with a Metro pass, ride sharing, or your own two feet.

Accommodations

From bed and breakfasts in Georgetown to Airbnbs in DuPont Circle to swanky hotels overlooking the White House lawn, there is no shortage of spots to crash in D.C. The Kalorama Guest House is a cozy euro-style B&B right off the metro and two blocks from the National Zoo. Airbnb has plenty of options, averaging $190 per night. And, if you’re feeling fancy (and planning way in advance), check out a room in the Hay-Adams, overlooking the White House.

Eats & Drinks

Photo: View from the W bar, Photo credit: Saahil Agrawal

D.C.’s multicultural make-up makes for comprehensive dinner plate fare. They’ve got a killer high-brow food scene, but the hidden ethnic gems are what make D.C. so tasty. If you want to eat Greek with the local Greeks, head to Mykonos for Imam Baildi and the most authentic tzatziki in town. Neapolitan pizza made by Italians in Arlington at Pupatella was voted best pizza in the state of Virginia and is right down the road. Other must-trys include Japanese donburi from Donburi in Adams Morgan and Latin eats from El Pollo Sabrosa.

The D.C. crowd is a work hard, play hard kinda crew, so there are also plenty of places to wet your whistle. The rent is too high, so dive bars are aplenty, as are the complete opposite — exclusive clubs. Bar Pilar is on 14th Street and is Hemingway-themed. ChurchKey is a beer lover’s delight, collaborating with breweries like Sun King Brewery and 3 Stars Brewing Company on exclusive brews. Head to the top of the W for drinks with a view of the Treasury and the White House, plus you can play Where’s Waldo? to find the security personnel on top of the White House.

Sight Seeing

D.C. has the obvious political sights that are popular for a reason. There’s nothing like walking the monuments that circle the Tidal Basin on the West End of the National Mall at night, taking a selfie in front of the White House, or perusing the National Archives, but there are some off-the-beaten path spots that are worth the deviation from throngs of tourists.

Music

Photo: Black Cat, photo by: Josephine Wood

D.C.’s got plenty of live music venues. Catch indie bands at Black Cat, bluegrass and Americana at Gypsy Sally’s, and a wide variety of other touring bands at the 9:30 Club, where they make their famous 9:30 cupcakes for artists and for sale to the public.

As for record stores, two Sundays of every year, collectors wrap around E Street to get first dibs on DC Record Fair’s vinyl fare at Penn Social. Grab some Emmylou from Red Onion Records or get nitro cold brew and peruse new and used records at Songbyrd Music House.

Books

Photo: Politics & Prose

Go book shopping and get a hearty breakfast at Politics & Prose. Be sure to check out their events lineup because they host notable people like Trevor Noah, Bernie Sanders, and Bob Boilen often, plus they have killer deals on used books.

Museums

Photo: National Gallery, Photo credit: Josephine Wood

The National Portrait Gallery is one of the more obscure Smithsonians, but is well worth the visit, particularly their “In the Groove” series of Herman Leonard’s jazz photography.

In the age of media skepticism, the Newseum offers a timely look back at the history of media in the U.S., including a 50th anniversary exhibit on the history of the Civil Rights movement, photography of immigrants and a history of rock ‘n’ roll and politics’ intersection. It’s not a Smithsonian Museum, so it costs $25, but is worth the cash.

The National Gallery boasts the most comprehensive art collection, which allows a wide range of visitors — art lovers or not — the chance to connect with different styles. Plan to spend a large chunk of time exploring, or target one genre or time period to meander through.

The National Museum of African-American History and Culture is the newest Smithsonian and tickets are tougher to come by, though still free. It’s worth the wait. The museum is a walk through the history of African-Americans in the United States, including Civil Rights history, slavery, music, art, and much more. You’ll learn more than you did in any history class, but plan at least half-a-day to spend wandering the museum, because there is a lot to take in at this five-story, emotionally taxing museum. Get ticket details here.

This one’s not exactly a hidden gem, but taking a stroll at the Georgetown Waterfront, along the Potomac River, is a great place to enjoy a sunny day. There are biking and walking paths, as well as plenty of stores and restaurants to pop in along the way. Plus, Georgetown is pretty much the most charming spot in D.C.

Lede photo credit: freestock.ca ♡ dare to share beauty via Foter.com / CC BY

Spaghetti Squash with Turkey Meatballs

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Happy New Year! We have survived 2016, even though, as a friend put it, we have elected 2016 as president. But never mind that for now.

The new year can be an exciting time to start fresh and focus on our goals. It can also be overwhelming, as there’s so much to change and imrove. This anxiety extends to food and health. We may feel that we had a too many sweets during Thanksgiving or too many drinks during Christmas. We often resolve to cutting back and jumping into a workout routine, and the $60 billion diet industry is all too happy to “help” with that.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with jumpstarting one’s health with green juice or a new workout class. The problem is that we often make our resolutions too extreme and unrealistic. We expect habits that have been formed over a year to break with sheer determination in the first week of January. Then, we are hard on ourselves, if we don’t succeed.

The last two years, I’ve tried to take more stock of what I’m being formed by: Do I want the habits I have acquired? Instead of swearing off all delightful foods or drinks, I have tried to focus on caring for my body, eating nourishing foods, and getting enough sleep. This year, I want to be more consistent with Morning Prayer and carving out more time to be inspired for my writing.

Learning to balance my love for food and my desire to be healthy has been difficult. I love how a wonderful meal fuels a long conversation with friends. I enjoy trying new restaurants and having a glass of wine after a busy day. I also love the way I feel eating healthy foods and working out regularly. There have been several times in my life when I felt like I had to choose between these things — I had to eat a salad for most of my meals and have an intense workout regimen, or I needed to let that go and enjoy cream and desserts on a regular basis. Today, I try to live in the middle.

I love recipes like the one I am sharing for this reason. It’s a nice blend of light and satisying, perfect for a meal any day of the week.

I recommend pairing this with Nocona by Carey Ott.

Ingredients (Serves 4-6)
For the spaghetti squash:
2 medium spaghetti squash
Olive oil
Kosher salt
black pepper

For the meatballs:
1 pound ground turkey
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper
1/2 cup seasoned breadcrumbs
1/4 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1 Tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried parsley
1 Tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
1/4 small white or yellow onion, chopped finely
1/8 cup milk or broth
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon tomato paste

For the marinara:
3/4 medium onion, chopped (the remaining onion not used in the meatballs)
1 small bell pepper, chopped
1 cup button or baby portobello mushrooms, chopped
1 28 oz cans crushed tomatoes (I like Cento.)
1 16 oz can diced tomatoes
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 – 1/2 cup chopped basil
Fresh grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

Directions
Begin by turning oven to 400 degrees.
Cut the Spaghetti squash in half and scoop seeds out of the middle with a spoon.
Lay on cookie sheet and lightly drizzle olive oil over the top and bottom of the squash. Use your hands to evenly coat, if necessary. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides. Lay squash down on cut side. Set aside.

Place all meatball ingredients in a bowl. Mix with wet hands to combine. Wash hands, and heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in a large skillet. Shape meatball mixture into 1.5-inch balls.

Place them one by one in the skillet and brown on high medium-high heat. Turn the meatballs and brown on the other side. Take out meatballs and place on a plate.

Place spaghetti squash in oven and cook for 30 minutes, or until it is tender when poked with a fork.

Wipe out pan and place back on stove with another drizzle of olive oil. Add chopped onions, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and sauté for a few minutes on medium heat. Then add bell peppers and sauté for another few minutes. Add garlic and mushrooms and sprinkle another another pinch of salt. Cook all together for 2 minutes and add both crushed and diced tomatoes. Lower heat to low, and stir in sugar, balsamic vinegar, and chopped basil. Add meatballs and simmer for 30-40 min. Taste sauce, and add salt and pepper, if necessary.

Once the spaghetti squash is cool, use fork to scrape out squash into bowls. Spoon marinara and meatballs over squash. Top with shaved parmesan cheese.

Traveler: Your Guide to Montréal

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“Hi, bonjour, hello,” is the greeting when you walk into any spot in the faux-Euro artsy port city of Montréal. This vibrant, French-speaking city is full of open-air markets, intricate architecture, vintage shops, and every kind of art. With just a quick hop over the U.S. border, English speakers may get cold feet upon arrival, but 56 percent of the population can speak English and French. Between Mont-Royal, the walkable streets of Old Port, and the array of diverse museums, you’ll want to pack your walking shoes, then refuel with the carb-heavy signature dishes of the city.

Getting There

Montréal has an international airport named for everyone’s favorite hunk of a prime minister’s dad: Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. It’s 12 miles from downtown and a quick city bus ride into town. Multiple railway lines service Montréal, including a daily Amtrak train to and from New York City. From Montréal, you can also hop on a train for a quick trip to Québec City or Toronto.

Accommodations

A variety of quality hostels, like Hi-Montreal in downtown or Auberge Saint-Paul in Old Port, range from $15-25 CAD for shared rooms to $85 CAD for private rooms. Most of them have free wi-fi, free breakfast, and an upscale European vibe, unlike many seedy American places that give hostels a bad rap. There are also plenty of Airbnb options and quaint hotels, if you’re looking to spend a little more. Check out Hotel Nelligan or W Montréal. Staying in or near downtown is a good idea, if you’re sans car.

Entrée Libre Attractions (Free Entry)

Just walking the streets of Montréal could take up a whole trip to the city. There’s also a lot to take in if you’re strapped for cash. Mont-Royal was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (Central Park, the Biltmore) and is a great people-watching spot, with lots of room to hike, bike, picnic, etc. Highlights include Beaver Lake, a chalet that overlooks downtown Montréal, and an old cemetery. It’s also home to Tam-Tams, weekly drum circles held on the lawn — a uniquely Montréal tradition.

Saint-Laurent Boulevard is peppered with murals, vintage shops, a stretch of Chinatown, clubs, and the best bagels you’ll ever eat.

Nerds will agree the Montréal Main Public Library is something special. The large, modern building is centrally located and is worth stopping by for a look. Plus, there’s an art gallery downstairs.

Montréal has some of the oldest buildings in North America, located near the port in Old Montréal. Bonsecours Market, Montréal City Hall, and Notre-Dame Basilica are among the buildings not to be missed. The 17th-century architecture borders Old Port, which is exactly what the name says — an old shipping port. Both areas are major tourist attractions, but worth the crowds. Parc La Fontaine in the Plateau also has a skating pond during the winter that is free.

Paid (and Worth It) Attractions

Getting lost in the Museum of Fine Arts is a must. Artists from Edmund Alleyn to Toulouse to Robert Mapplethorpe have recently been on display in this contemporary-leaning museum. It’s half-priced on Wednesday evenings and costs a well-worth-it $10-$14 CAD.

The Jardin Botanique is the second-largest botanical garden in the world. History buffs and plant lovers will both dig this spot, opened in 1931, featuring 10 greenhouses.

Music

Montréal’s music scene is plentiful and diverse. Catch Hillbilly Night at the Wheel Club , the Montréal Orchestra, or an indie band at myriad venues across town. Get fancy at the Theatre Rialto, a neo-baroque dinner theatre hosting all types of music, or visit La Sala Rossa and Casa Del Popolo, sister venues located across the street from each other — the latter is where Arcade Fire got their start. PDB Ritz, Club Soda, and Divan Orange are hipster haunts for live alternative music.

Eats

Get ready to carb load. Poutine, bagels, thick sandwiches … Montréal’s food scene is home to some heavy-hitting dishes. Highlights include:

Patati Patata — Best burger $2.75 can buy ya, tucked in a lively neighborhood.

Chez Broussard — Because you have to have poutine.

Tommy — The coffee scene is alive and well in Montréal, boasting homemade croissants almost as good as in Paris. Almost.

Local Marches are a trademark of the city’s culture. You’re sure to run into fresh produce, if you go during the Summer or Fall. Check out Jean-Talon Marche.

Getting Around

Montréal’s public transportation is award-winning. Four lines service 68 stations across town, allowing you to get to — or within walking distance of — almost anywhere in the city via metro, or bus the Société de transport de Montréal (STM) for $3.25 CAD/trip or $18 CAD/weekend. The city is easy to navigate, and there are plenty of ridesharing services available. They also have a network of rental bikes located throughout the city, if you’re feeling active.

Lede photo credit: szeke via Foter.com / CC BY-SA. All other photos by Josephine Wood.

Traveler: Your Guide to Santa Fe

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In Santa Fe, New Mexico, the winter holiday is a holiday like no other. The oldest U.S. capital — and the third largest art market in the country — Santa Fe sits at 7,000 feet above sea level at the most northern point of the Camino Real trading route. Settled as a Spanish Colony in 1610, the area was home to the Tewa Pueblo People for centuries before. Much has been written about Santa Fe … the art, the light, the culture, the geography — all of which go toward making a Santa Fe holiday a rare and memorable experience.

Getting There
Santa Fe is about 45 minutes north of Albuquerque, the most likely place to fly into. Rent a car and head north on I-25 or take the Sandia Shuttle which departs from the Albuquerque Sunport hourly from 8:45 am to 11:45 pm — reservations recommended. Santa Fe also has an airport with very limited commercial service from Dallas/Ft. Worth and Phoenix (American Airlines) and Denver (United Airlines). Another option for getting to and from Santa Fe is to take the Rail Runner from Albuquerque to the Santa Fe Depot. While the train departures are frequent, the shuttle bus to and from the airport is infrequent so I would consider a taxi to and from. You know you are almost there when you come up over the last hill and see the jeweled lights of the town at the base of the Sangre De Cristo mountains.

Lodging

Photo courtesy of La Fonda Hotel.

For maximum holiday impact, stay within walking distance of the Plaza, the heart of historic Santa Fe. To be car-free and on foot allows for exploration of hidden lanes and alleys. If it snows, all the better. The stars are within reach, and the air is crisp and scented with piñon and cedar wood from the kiva fireplaces warming most adobe structures.

La Fonda Hotel is an iconic and classic hotel built in 1922 sitting just off the Plaza. Another historic property slightly off the beaten path up Palace Avenue, covering six acres and comprised of a series of adobe casitas, is La Posada Hotel, while St. Francis, on the southern side of the Plaza, is the oldest historic hotel. A little farther afield and one of the best deals in Santa Fe is the El Rey — a classic southwestern motor court on the original Route 66. Of course, there are vacation rentals aplenty, if you want that “I live here” experience.

Celebrations

Photo courtesy of Melissa Howden.

The Spanish colonization of Santa Fe means celebrations have a generous Catholic imprint. However, it is the prevalence of firelight that sets this holiday experience apart from others. Buildings, homes, and streets are outlined with farolitos — lunch-sized paper bags filled with sand and lit from within by votive candles. Little do you know, as you drive north on I-25, you will cross an important border pretty much delineated by La Bajada Hill. To the north of La Bajada Hill, the little light bags are called farolitos. To the south, they are referred to as luminarias. The history of both derives from the night before Christmas, when they lit the way for Mary and Joseph as they searched for a place to stay before their baby was born, and/or to light the way for the Christ child.

For a true display of farolito (and luminaria) magic, head to Canyon Road on Christmas Eve. The community comes out to stroll, join or listen to carolers, warm hands and chat over the luminarias (in this case bonfires) and revel in the company of one another.

Las Posadas translates to lodging or accommodations, and it is a traditional celebration joining Spanish folklore and Christian tradition in which people re-enact Joseph and Mary’s search for a place to stay on Christmas Eve. Joseph and Mary are followed by the community, and they proceed from door to door and are turned away, all the while taunted by devils on rooftops. You don’t need to be a believer to join in this centuries-old tradition. This year, the community event is scheduled for December 11, though many churches in the region have their own throughout the season.

The Glow Event at the Santa Fe Botanical Gardens brings music, nature, food, and drink together in a particular kind of holiday glory.

Make sure your schedule allows for a visit to one of the nearby pueblos for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day dances. As the original people of this land, the pueblos of the Rio Grande Valley generously welcome visitors to many of their dances and celebrations which are exquisitely beautiful. These are prayerful celebrations, not tourist entertainment. As a good guest, one is sure to go away changed by the majesty and an unrivaled glimpse into a living ancient culture.

Food and Drink

Photo courtesy of Café Pasqual's.

Santa Fe attracts both diverse and adventurous chefs and eaters, and it is hard to keep up with the latest and greatest in town. Breakfast at Café Pasqual’s — named after San Pasqual, the patron saint of kitchens and cooking — has been a favorite for almost 40 years. This is organic, noble food lifted up by tradition. If you like a good diner, the Plaza Café is one of Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant and fits the bill with windows on to the plaza. The chile is hot, the sopaipillas made to order, and the coffee cup always full. On the old Route 66 — and not far from the El Rey if you stay there — the Pantry is a classic café with good food, friendly people, families, and deal makers. Be prepared to wait. It’s just like that.

Lunch calls for the Shed. Perhaps one of the most known and visited restaurants in Santa Fe, it is much-beloved by visitors and locals, alike, as it has been owned by three generations of the same family. Try the Blue Corn Green Chile Chicken Enchilada. Vinaigrette is a “Salad Bistro” in a charming adobe. Owner Erin Wade grows much of the produce on her 10-acre farm in Nambe and each salad can be customized with protein or not. For those not salad-inclined, there are soups, sandwiches, and specials, as well as a revolving beer and wine list. Eat Your Peas is a favorite with its sweet green peas and lettuce with crunchy bacon, a white mushroom sauté, and Asiago cheese with a tart vinaigrette. Shake Foundation is a traditional drive-up with a modern twist, preserving the classic green chile cheese or no cheeseburger with local hormone and antibiotic-free beef and turkey, and shakes from natural, organic, and hormone-free Rasband Dairy in Albuquerque.

Dinner at La Boca guarantees a good meal with a small plate selection of seasonal goodness influenced by the Spanish Tapas tradition. If you are lucky, you might hit a night when local fave Nacha Mendez is playing. Chef Joseph Wrede began his distinguished, award-winning career in Taos, New Mexico, with the first and second incarnations of Joseph’s Table. He is an artist in all ways, combining traditional and contemporary cuisine into something uniquely memorable and Joseph. Locally sourced, divinely prepared, and lovingly presented, the fare at Radish and Rye is abright new-ish addition to the Santa Fe restaurant scene — with an extensive bourbon list, to boot!

Before or after dinner, make a point of going to the La Fonda Bar. Try to make it on a night when Bill Hearne and his trio play. It's a combo of honky-tonk, country swing, and slick guitar licks. Whatever the make-up, it is a joyous event with couples popping up to two step and swing. It doesn’t matter if you are a dancer or not, this is distinctive and evocative Santa Fe action.

Things to Do

Photo courtesy of the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.

Must-hit museums include the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, the New Mexico History Museum, and IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts. Doubletake is one of the greatest consignment store experiences ever. Todos Santos Chocolates in Sena Plaza is a tiny chocolate shop of wonder known for chocolate confections in the shape of Milagros covered in silver and gold leaf. If you have a weakness for cowboy boots, there is no place better to oooh and aaah than Back at the Ranch.

One last thing about Christmas in New Mexico. Three particular dishes are required for the holidays: tamales, posole, and biscochitos.

Strictly speaking, tamales are not New Mexican; rather, they are a Mesoamerican dish to which New Mexicans have added their own twists. A tamale is made of a corn masa/dough then stuffed with any combination of cheese, chile, meat, and vegetables then wrapped in a corn husk and steamed. Families have their over versions of Christmas Tamales that, in some cases, include a special chile or a sweet tamale version. Posole is a hominy stew — usually made for celebrations — with pork and garnished with shredded cabbage, chile peppers, onion, garlic, radishes, avocado, salsa, and/or limes.

Finally, biscochitos — an anise and cinnamon cookie which are traditionally made with lard. Every family has their particular twist and take on the recipe, which is most often learned in the kitchen with an abuela or tia passed down by oral tradition. They are also the New Mexico State Cookie.

Photo courtesy of Melissa Howden.

Here is a basic recipe to try:

Ingredients

1 ½ cups lard, chilled*
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
2 eggs
2 teaspoons anise seeds
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
About 3 tablespoons brandy, whiskey, or brandy.
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F. Beat lard and one cup sugar in a bowl until fluffy. Add eggs and anise seeds, and beat until very light and fluffy. Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Add to creamed mixture, along with the brandy. Mix thoroughly to make a stiff dough.

Place dough on a long piece — about three feet — of waxed paper at one end. Bring the long end over the top, and press to about one inch or slightly less in thickness and refrigerate until chilled.

Roll out dough between waxed paper to just under ½ inch thickness. Cut with flour-dusted cutters into your preferred shape. Combine the three remaining tablespoons of sugar and the cinnamon into a bowl; Some people dip the unbaked cookies into the cinnamon sugar, some sprinkle after just baked.

Place cookies on ungreased baking sheets. Bake 10 to 12 minutes or until tops of cookies are just beginning to brown. Cool cookies on wire racks.

*You can substitute Crisco or butter for the lard, but you will sacrifice crispness and taste. You can also substitute the whiskey or brandy with a juice or milk, but again, it’s a different cookie with changes.

Lede image photo credit: Larry1732 via Foter.com / CC BY.

A Minute in Melbourne with C.W. Stoneking

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Welcome to "A Minute In …" — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Melbourne, Australia's C.W. Stoneking takes us down under on a tour of his favorite places for Vietnamese food, homemade donuts, and old-school instruments.

Footscray, Melbourne: This is the neighborhood where I first lived with my wife, Kirsty, when our two sons were born. I name the whole suburb because there are so many great places there: the Olympic Donuts van at Footscray Railway Station where they pump strawberry jam via an enameled aluminum dolphin into delicious, homemade, sugared jam ball donuts; Amasya Kebab House where we ate grilled lamb, dips, salad, and Turkish bread the entire time my wife was pregnant with our first son; 1+1 Noodle & Dumpling House in Footscray Market with homemade noodles, dumplings, and spicy cucumber salad; Little Saigon Market, just like being in Vietnam … Footscray is my very favorite part of Melbourne.

The Old Bar: This is a bar and music venue in Fitzroy, Melbourne. I played here for a little over three years in the lead-up to my music career getting some traction with my first original album, King Hokum. I used to draw the blackboard advertisements in the bar for upcoming shows, etc. Some of my blackboard pictures are still up in there. I met my wife there. I was also barred from there for a couple years due to some shenanigans prior to me quitting alcohol. The interior is like a time capsule. It's been through two different sets of owners since my wife and her ex-boyfriend sold it in 2005, but it still looks pretty identical in its decorations and decor. But no smoking in there anymore. Damn, it used to be smoky.

Photo credit: sharngst via Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND

The Music Swop Shop: A proper old-school used musical instruments store in Fitzroy. They have lots of guitars, amps, keyboards, drums effects, microphones, etc. I've never actually bought a guitar from them, but have spent many hours over the years checking out the stuff in there.

Gelobar: An Italian gelato bar in Lygon Street, East Brunswick. My kids always like to go here when we're in town. The place has been renovated — it used to look much more old time, but the Italian ice cream in there is great. The owner, unfortunately, was also a lawyer for some gangsters around town and last year was ambushed in his car and executed.

Photo credit: Br3nda via Foter.com / CC BY-NC-SA

Pellegrini's Espresso Bar: An Italian café in Bourke Street, It's a great old-school café with spaghetti, lasagna, gnocchi, minestrone soup, and more. They have this homemade juice they call a fruit cup that's a knockout. Unfortunately, you can't smoke in there anymore. It robs some of the atmosphere, but it's still a cool Melbourne joint.

Mélissa Cakes: In Smith Street, Collingwood. The spanakopita is all you need to know. They renovated the joint and it looks like shit now, but the spanakopita is good — good for walking along eating while you check out Smithy (Smith Street).

A Minute In the Pioneer Valley with Parsonsfield

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Welcome to "A Minute In …" — a BGS feature that turns our favorite artists into hometown reporters. In our latest column, Parsonsfield takes us on a tour of the book mills and coffee shops of Pioneer Valley town Leverett, Massachusetts.

Usually when you tell someone you live in Leverett (unless they are in the Pioneer Valley, also known as the scenic I-91 corridor), they’ve never heard of it. The town is about 23 miles of mostly trails, ponds, and trees. Amongst these mysterious woods, we have found a few hidden gems we’d love to share with you. We’re proud to call this area our home. When you get to the Lady Killigrew, tell the staff that Parsonsfield sent you.

The Montague Book Mill: Their slogan says it all: “Books you don’t need in a place you can’t find." Once a grist mill, this unique building on the banks of the Sawmill River has been converted into a used book store, along with several other places to hang. Be careful: You may end up spending your entire day here. We certainly have. People have been known to make the 90-minute drive from the Boston area just to hang out here.

The Lady Killigrew: Step through a door in the book store and enter the absolute best spot for nitro-iced coffee and great sandwiches in a laid-back environment. Grab a table by the window and enjoy a relaxing morning overlooking the babbling stream below. If you go on a day we’re not touring, we’re probably already here. 

Turn It Up: Now that you’re all buzzed up on caffeine, walk across the courtyard to the record store. Although their other locations are a little bigger, somehow you always find something cool here.  

Lake Wyola State Park: If you’re here in the Summer, you can have a beach day without driving to the coast — our favorite spot in the area for a swim and a picnic.  

Peace Pagoda: “… A visible form of prayer for inseparable peace in the world and within the minds of all humanity.” Built in 1985, this is the first Peace Pagoda in North America and the one place you should not miss if you happen to be in Leverett. We’d rather not reveal its mystery, so take the short hike from the parking area to the top of the hill and enjoy what you see.

The Fretted Instrument Workshop: We think this may come of interest to some people who read a site that has the word bluegrass in it. Stop in for an unbelievable selection of new and vintage guitars, banjos, mandolins, and a few stranger instruments. This is where we bring our instruments for repairs, after we’ve rocked them a little too hard on tour. Tony will set you up with something real nice.

High Horse Brewery: As rock 'n' roll goes, our band is mostly filled with lightweight squares when it comes to drinking. In our first years of touring, we realized, if we take advantage of all the free booze at shows, we may sometimes wake up the next morning freezing cold, alone, and still on stage at a festival … That’s a story for a different outlet. However, when we’re at home, we like to whet our whistles here. Go upstairs to play some pool or downstairs for some great food. Either floor you choose, they’ve got great beer and cocktails.

 

After cruising through the Pioneer Valley, head down to Brooklyn and hit Victoria Reed's hot spots.

Lede photo by Shervin Lainez. All other photos by Parsonsfield, except High Horse photo by Brittany Ciullo. 

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Traveler: Your Guide to Burlington

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Burlington, Vermont, has a lot to offer besides Bernie, Phish, and Ben & Jerry’s. This small, hippie town is a healthy, friendly, and affordable getaway located in the northwest corner of the state on the coast of Lake Champlain — a college town at heart with a lot to offer besides schooling. Food, coffee, and art run deep in Burlington. Where else can you do yoga overlooking a wild salmon hole, sip a local Smoked Vermont Maple Syrup latte, and happen upon a knitting club/bluegrass jam combo night at the local bar?

Getting There

An oddly relaxed small spot with rocking chairs to lounge while you wait, Burlington International Airport is almost as charming as the city. The airport is a 12-minute cab ride from downtown. Beware: There is an Uber shortage in Burlington and Lyft does not service the area, so having the number of a local cab company comes in handy. There’s also a Greyhound station located in the airport. (Pro tip: It’s a quick bus ride to Montreal.)

Accommodations

Burlington has plenty of charming bed and breakfasts like Lang House, Made INN Vermont, and One of a Kind Bed and Breakfast. Airbnb also has 300+ affordable options averaging around $150 per night. The town also has a hostel — for backpackers passing through — which runs $40 per night. Just a couple miles northeast of the city is a suburb called Winooski, which is a hip haven full of places to stay for a bit cheaper.

Eats

Burlington is a vegetarian’s dream and, with places like Revolution Kitchen, Onion River Co-op, and Pingala Café, any carnivore would be happy, too. Chittenden County is a refugee resettlement area, which means there’s a multitude of great cuisines and people from African countries, Nepal, Vietnam, Tibet, and Bhutan. Spice Trader’s Kitchen and Tiny Thai are a few authentic and cheap ethnic eats.

Breakfast is the meal not to be missed. With menus sporting homemade rye bread, Vermont maple syrup on every table, and gingerbread pancakes, Sneakers and Penny Cluse are two spots widely agreed upon as the best breakfast spots in town. And, if you’re feeling it, grab Ben & Jerry’s Vermont-only flavor — Vermonsters — from the factory up the road for breakfast.

Coffee

Every town has their ode to the hipster coffee shop, and Burlington has no shortage. Check out Scout & Co. for their Smoked Vermont Maple Latte , Radio Bean for great coffee into the night, and Muddy Waters to grab espresso featuring some light reading — patrons hide notes in the stone walls.

Drinks

Light Club Lamp Shop, an old lighting shop turned bar, has a bluegrass jam and knitting club on Wednesday nights — a killer combo of local flavor — with fancy pants cocktails. Plus, it’s attached to Radio Bean, if you’re feeling a late-night espresso stop. Oak45 is a go-to for quiet after-dinner drinks; Mule Bar has the best selection of Vermont ciders; and Vermont Pub & Brewery will satiate the craft brew fans.

Music

Higher Ground is one of the largest music venues in Vermont, drawing big artists to Burlington with its double-room capacity. Signal Kitchen brings a lot of smaller, traveling indie and alternative bands to the area, as well as better-known local bands. And, in the middle of downtown, Burlington Records is one heck of vintage vinyl haven, with old show posters galore.

Outdoors

Perhaps Burlington’s crown jewel is the view of Lake Champlain framed by the mountains. Grab a bike from the non-profit rental shop, Local Motion, and hit the many bike paths in town which showcase the natural beauty of Vermont. Waterfront Park is a great place to take a stroll and make a balancing rock formation on the rock beach, alongside many others.

If you’re looking to do a quick day hike, Shelburne Farms is close by and definitely worth the 15-minute drive. Established as a non-profit to teach people about sustainability, Shelburne has activities for the whole family like cheese-making tours, hayrides, hiking along Lake Champlain, and huge vegetable gardens.

Art

Burlington City Arts Center is a three-story, free contemporary art museum in downtown, featuring local Vermont artists. Head to Arts Riot for local art, food, and live music, and take a stroll through South End to explore art studios galore.

Shopping

Church Street Marketplace is a pedestrian-only shopping spot in the middle of downtown, featuring many locally owned spots and street performers on the weekend. Phoenix Books, a great indie bookstore with handwritten recommendations from their employees, is also just around the corner. For the vintage collector, Jamba’s Junktiques is the hippest junk shop outside of Austin.