Traveler: Your Guide to Cumberland, MD

Cumberland, Maryland, is a mountain town tucked into the base of the Appalachian Mountains. It earned the nickname “the Gateway to the West” because of its location as a jumping off point to the western United States during the Gold Rush. It’s an artsy town with a healthy dose of a small town feel. One of our favorite artists takes over this mountainside town for four days every May for DelFest, started in honor of and in conjunction with the great Del McCoury. (If you are reading this, you know who he is, so I’ll spare you the storied history about his bluegrass career.)

Getting There

Nestled along the Potomac River, Cumberland is located in western Maryland. It’s a stone’s throw from both Pennsylvania and West Virginia, and right around two hours from Baltimore, D.C. and Pittsburgh. Airport options include Reagan, Dulles, Baltimore, and Pittsburgh. Amtrak also provides intercity service to Cumberland via the Capitol Limited rail line.

Where to Stay

If you’re attending DelFest, most people camp on the ample festival camping grounds or stay at area hotels. Airbnb and VRBO are also fruitful in the Cumberland area. If Cumberland is booked, try Lavelle or Frostburg for a short fest commute. Paw Paw is another town nearby which we know nothing about, but love the name. Please let us know if you visit.

What to Do

Allegany County Courthouse Tower. Photo credit: Preservation Maryland.

A mountain town at heart means trails on trails on trails are at your disposal in Cumberland. The Great Allegheny Passage is a seemingly daunting 135-mile hiking and biking trail connecting Cumberland with Duquesne, Pennsylvania. Hiking bits and pieces of the trail is perfectly acceptable, if you’re not up for the whole journey.

The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historic Park boasts nearly 185 miles of biking and hiking trails with parks, camping, and historical structures along the way. Take the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad from Cumberland through the Allegheny Mountains for a fascinating adventure with mountain eye candy.

If you’re mainly a city dweller, Washington Street Historic District is a neighborhood in the southern part of the city which was once Fort Cumberland, serving as George Washington’s headquarters during the French and Indian Wars. It’s a playground for architecture and history nerds.

Yellow K Records

This rural town has a quaint arts and culture scene. The Cumberland Theatre is the town’s musical theatre go-to; Graphicus Atelier is a print-making studio and gallery dedicated to fine prints; and Dante’s hosts poetry slams. We’re also fans of Yellow K Records in downtown Frostburg for your new and used vinyl fix.

Eats & Drinks

Puccini’s Pizza

Puccini’s woodfired pizza is renowned in Cumberland, plus it’s in a converted Civil War hospital (which isn’t as creepy as it sounds).

El Jinte is an unsuspecting hole-in-the wall, serving affordable and authentic Mexican food. And Ristorante Ottaviani is another classic and fresh Italian spot offering wine tastings in town. For sushi, Thai, or Chinese, head to Jins Asian Cuisine and try their Shumai dumplings. For breakfast, head to Clatter Coffee in Frostburg for some of the best smoked trout around.

DelFest Tips

DelFest. Photo credit: Roli Breitenecker.

DelFest is held at the Allegany County Fairgrounds, nestled along the Potomac River. The festival celebrates the rich legacy of the McCoury family’s music, while helping fans discover new favorites. This isn’t a stuffy bluegrass festival, but instead one where you’ll see Del on stage with Trey Anastasio one hour and Junior Sisk the next.

Punch Brothers. Photo credit: Roli Breitenecker.

In its 11th year, the lineup is more bluegrass than it has been in a while. On Saturday night, they are even holding Bluegrass Congress (the most productive Congress we can think of …) with Sam Bush, David Grisman, Béla Fleck, Ricky Skaggs, Bryan Sutton, Stuart Duncan, Jerry Douglas, and the Del McCoury Band holding court. DelFest is a jam band-influenced festival, so of course it has copious amounts of dancing, craft beer, and staying up into the wee hours of the night.


Lede image: The Great Allegheny Passage. Photo credit: Jbrown620 at English Wikipedia.

Traveler: Your Guide to San Antonio

San Antonio is a multicultural city with a rich history and vibrant art culture. A museum goer’s dream, the second largest city in Texas is packed with evolving and impressive museums and galleries galore. San Antonio’s music scene attracts outlaws, the art scene attracts Picassos, and the culinary scene attracts Mexican food perfectionists. Plus, who wouldn’t want to go to the city which holds a world record in tamale making?

Getting There

River Walk at Dusk. Photo credit: Tim Thompson

Located in south central Texas, San Antonio is nearly nestled against the Mexican border. San Antonio International Airport (SAT) is located northeast of San Antonio proper, offering plenty of nonstop flights in and out daily. If you want to tack onto a trip to Austin or Houston, San Antonio is a one- or three-hour drive, respectively.

Where to Stay

Inn on the River Walk

The Inn on the River Walk is a classic bed & breakfast, sprawling throughout three 1900s homes along the famous River Walk, while Hotel Havana is a boutique hotel overlooking the River Walk with a noteworthy bar called Ocho. There are plenty of affordable Airbnb options, too. Stick to looking in the downtown and River Walk areas, East San Antonio, Alamo Heights, and the King Williams Historic District for staying in lively areas.

The Hotel Emma

The Hotel Emma is a destination in and of itself because of its unique trappings and in-house upscale restaurants. It’s worth a meal just to peep the decor inside.

What to Do

McNay museum. 

San Antonio is museum central. Everything from Picassos to O’Keeffes reside in the McNay, a world-class modern art museum with more than 20,000 works. The Witte Museum is an interactive science-meets-nature-meets-culture experience, and the brand new DoSeum Children’s Museum features STEM-centric, hands-on exhibits for kids like Spy Academy and Sensations Studio.

Botanical Garden. Photo credit: visitsanantonio.com

Freshly renovated, the San Antonio Botanical Garden includes a family garden, Texas Native Trail, bird watching opportunities, and a tropics-heavy conservatory.

The Alamo. Photo credit: visitsanantonio.com

Though San Antonio is a history nerd’s playground, the Alamo is a given stop on any traveler’s itinerary. Originally established as a one of the early Spanish missions in Texas, the fortress has had many uses and is now preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s free and spans four acres, so it’ll take a few hours to cover the grounds. San Antonio Missions National Historical Park is home to four of the city’s five Spanish missions — outposts that date back to the 17th century.

Under construction and opening in 2019 is Ruby City, a contemporary art center designed by Sir David Adjaye — the same architect who designed the Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, DC.

If you like your learning with a side of live music, check out Jazz, TX at Pearl, Paper Tiger, and Willie Nelson’s Luck Reunion fest every March.

Eats & Drinks

Hotel Havana

With more than 1,000 Mexican restaurants, authentic Texas BBQ, and international cuisine from every corner of the world, San Antonio’s culinary scene is robust. The Pearl District and Southtown are restaurant-rich parts of town where you can point to pretty much any spot on the map and strike gold. Grab a drink at Ocho (in Hotel Havana), and you’ll be situated in a glass conservatory overlooking the River Walk sipping locally inspired cocktails.

The Esquire Tavern

The Esquire Tavern is a James Beard-nominated bar with the longest wooden bar top in Texas. Its vibe is informed by the year it opened — 1933. Don’t miss their smoky, chimichurri-doused chalupitas.

Breakfast options include Bakery Lorraine, which moved from the San Francisco area to the Pearl in San Antonio and offers renowned tarts and macaroons. Chef Johnny Hernandez is a local celeb and his Frutería-Botanero will prove why. This Southtown gem serves fresh-pressed juices and smoothies by day and transforms into a Mexican-style small plate bar by night. If you’re feeling a good ole’ American meal of BBQ & beer, hit up the Granary.

Luck Reunion Tips

Valerie June at Luck Reunion. Photo credit: Nathan Poppe

An hour-and-a-half north of San Antonio, musical outlaws gather every March among the fading movie set facades for a musical reunion. Luck Reunion was originally Willie Nelson’s brainchild, beginning on his ranch in Luck, Texas.

Sure, the Reunion’s lineup is stacked with big names, but the fest is equally as dedicated to encouraging music fans to experience rising acts who are doing it all on their own terms. The festival organizers program the early slots to be filled with the artists they believe will be the next crop of rogue music legends.

The Nelson family’s cardinal rule is “Don’t be an asshole,” and that rings true during the festival. Don’t take the historic property, the people you’re surrounded by, or the music for granted while you’re (literally) in Luck. And, no, that is not a skunk you smell.

Traveler: Your Guide to Bellevue, WA

Bellevue, Washington, is a quick commute outside of Seattle and a gateway to the beauty of the Puget Sound region. With a compact and walkable downtown, Bellevue is a culture-filled day trip for when you have an extra day in the Seattle area or want to soak up a rich bluegrass fest. The 25-year-old Wintergrass Music Festival is a compelling reason to plan a trip to Bellevue every February, boasting OG bluegrassers like Del McCoury, the Seldom Scene, and Peter Rowan.

Getting There

Just nine miles south of Seattle, Bellevue offers a quick getaway from big city life. Take a half-hour bus ride or drive from Seattle to reach Bellevue. The Seattle-Tacoma airport is a 16-mile drive from Bellevue, making Bellevue and Seattle a convenient two-for-one trip. Once in Bellevue, you won’t need a car much because the city is quite walkable, unless you want to venture to nearby attractions.

Where to Stay

Wintergrass festival-goers will want to stay at the Hyatt Regency Bellevue, since it’s centrally located downtown and close to the music. Silver Cloud Inn Bellevue is also walking distance to the festival and a more budget-friendly basecamp, offering discounts to Wintergrass attendees. For a more boutique hotel experience, the Europe-inspired AC Hotel’s design marries modern with classic, serving a hearty European-style breakfast each morning.

What to Do

Bellevue Arts Museum. Photo credit: Scott Harder.

The Bellevue Arts Museum is nationally renowned for their art, craft, and design. The museum started from an art fair in the 1940s and has become a staple in the city. During Wintergrass 2018, the museum welcomes a Pakistan-born artist named Humaira Abid, well-known for her symbolically rich wood sculptures and mini paintings.

Woodinville Wine Country. Photo credit: Novelty Hill Januik Winer.

Woodinville Wine Country’s climate is ripe for grapes, boasting more than 115 wineries and tasting rooms. It’s a quick drive from Bellevue into the scenic valley of Woodinville, and it’s not just for wine lovers: Their microbreweries, distilleries, cideries, and robust farm-to-table scene are all impressive.


Bellevue Skyline. Photo credit: Visit Bellevue Washington by Merrill Images.

Bellevue Downtown Park is a 21-acre green space in the heart of downtown along with Inspiration Playground. Pit stops at Third Culture Coffee, a globally influenced coffee and tea shop, are encouraged. Try their Mexican or Vietnamese Coffee.

The 36-acre Bellevue Botanical Garden is stunning, featuring a rhododendron glen, Japanese Yao garden, and a stone garden, plus admission is free.

We recommend the punny Puget Sounds record shop and Silver Platters for your vinyl fix. Bake’s Place is Bellevue’s answer to “dinner and a show,” and the Showbox hosts gigs by indie rockers to singer/songwriters to country artists and more.

Eats and Drinks

The Lakehouse Bellevue

Bellevue is quickly becoming a foodie hotspot, drawing award-winning talent to the scene, like James Beard Award winner Chef Jason Wilson’s the Lakehouse. Japonessa fuses Japanese and Latin American flavors and is known for their extensive happy hour and traditional sushi. Locals love Lot No. 3 where the cocktail and spirits program has been recognized as one of the strongest in the Puget Sound. For breakfast goods, head to Belle Pastry on Main Street for exceptional French croissants.

Wintergrass Tips

Wintergrass originated in Tacoma and has made its home Bellevue for nearly 10 years. Home to many IBMA- and Grammy Award-winning artists, the festival takes place in the Hyatt Hotel every February and offers 70+ performances throughout the weekend. Always have your instrument on you for the various, spontaneous jam session which break out at any given moment. Don’t overlook the educational component at this fest, because who knows when you’ll be able to learn to clog at a music festival.

Ballrooms and bars in the Hyatt are turned into venues, making seating at popular shows competitive. Don’t feel pressured to buy food and drinks at bars while watching shows, which has been a point of contention in the past. The festival is laid out nicely indoors — so you barely have to leave — and the surrounding restaurants are easily walkable.


Lede: Lede Photo courtesy of Visit Bellevue Washington, by Merrill Images

Traveler: Your Guide to 30A

Named for the scenic stretch of highway running through the 16 beach towns in Florida along the Gulf of Mexico, 30A is a curated, Instagram-able beach experience. From the tower in Seaside to the monochromatic white buildings of Alys Beach, each part of 30A has an aesthetic which breaks the beach bum mold. Among them, Santa Rosa Beach is home to the renowned 30A Songwriters Festival every January.

Getting There

Located on the northwest gulf coast of Florida between Destin and Panama City, the 30A region is easy to reach. Between Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport (ECP), Pensacola Gulf Coast Regional Airport (PNS), and Destin/Ft. Walton Beach Airport (VPS), plenty of nonstop flights to big cities are available to the area. While there, navigating by bike is the norm, but Uber and Lyft are available.

Where to Stay

30A stretches 50 miles along the Gulf of Mexico, offering plenty of accommodations — from beachside condos to full-blown resorts to Airbnbs. Resorts abound, but we recommend the Airbnb or VRBO approach. The Songwriters Festival is headquartered in Santa Rosa Beach, but Seaside, Seagrove, Watercolor, Grayton Beach, Rosemary Beach, and Alys Beach are all close by. If you want to spring for the resort life, try the Pearl.

Must Sees

Central Square Records. Photo credit: Dawn Whitty

In addition to beach time, 30A’s laid-back towns have a lot to offer. In Seaside’s Central Square, Sundog Books and Central Square Records are a culture lover’s dream. A book/record store combo with recommendations by staff who have their finger on the pulse. Central Square also hosts in-store performances regularly and during the 30A Songwriters Festival. Seaside is also home to a variety of art galleries behind Central Square on DiBicci Park. Check out Red Bird Gallery and An Apartment in Paris.

Grayton Beach State Park. Photo credit: Pixabay

For the outdoorsy folks, Grayton Beach State Park has cabins to rent, plus a 4.5 mile hiking/biking loop alongside the Gulf of Mexico. The stand up paddleboard craze pretty much originated in this area, so finding a guide company is easy. Paddleboard in the bay, if you’re a first timer, and we recommend renting through YOLO.

Eats & Drinks

Photo credit: 732 Whiskey Bravo

Seaside is centrally located and packed with great restaurants and bars. Modica Market is a locally owned, old-school market with anything from ibuprofen to homemade cakes. Bud & Alley’s is quintessential 30A, where you can mingle with locals — it’s been around since the ’80s and, during sunset every day, restaurant goers guess the exact time the sun will set on a chalkboard and, if you guess the time correctly, you get a drink on the house. Vue on 30A is a fancy, beachfront dining spot in Santa Rosa Beach well known for brunch.

For rooftop drinks and poboys, head to 732 Whiskey Bravo — just off Central Square in Seaside. If you want a drink without having to rinse the sand off your feet, Red Bar is your best bet. They host live music often and serve killer crab claws and Bloody Marys. Trebeache’s illustrious 2-for-1 oyster happy hour is well-loved at this upscale Santa Rosa seafood haven.

30A Songwriters Festival Pro Tips

30A Songwriters Festival. Photo credit: Shelly Swanger

The 30A Songwriters Festival is a decentralized, discovery festival taking place up and down 30A in more than 25 venues, from intimate theaters to funky bars. It’s the type of festival where you might find Zac Brown wandering into a small restaurant to hop on stage for a few songs … unannounced. Shows take place in intimate venues which make you feel like your uncle is singing you tunes while explaining what inspired him to write them. Since there are more than 225 performances, strategies are encouraged.

Grand Boulevard Stage. Photo credit: Shelly Swanger

Familiarize yourself with the schedule and prioritize your top artists because lines can be long to get into popular shows. Get to smaller venues early for artists you’re dead-set on seeing. There are free shuttles running constantly to get you from venue to venue, which are helpful and reliable. For the bigger shows at Grand Boulevard, bring lawn chairs. It’s an outdoor/indoor festival in Florida in January, so the weather can be a crapshoot. Check the forecast, but concert goers are usually fine in shorts during the fest — a perk of Florida.


Lede photo credit: Visit South Walton

Using Music to Blast Away Holiday Stress

Somewhere between going to your sixth holiday party, second school Christmas performance, 12th crowded mall, and 38th traffic jam, you realize you’ve come down with it yet again this year. Even though you vow every year you’re going to somehow escape it, organize your way out of it, downsize your experience of it, or simply consume wine by the case, at some point between Black Friday and Christmas morning, you realize you once again have come down with a nasty case of the Holiday Blues — an exhausting kind of stress that causes you to loathe the season which is supposed to be rooted in joy, love, and generosity.

Holiday stress is impossible to escape. It doesn’t matter if you’re the town Scrooge or a devout atheist, holiday stress and strain grabs everyone by the throat and doesn’t let go till we’re popping the Tylenol on January 1. There are too many people trying to accomplish too much in the same crowded spaces in too little time. And it’s not like work and family duties just evaporate at this time of year. Rather, like everything else, they multiply and magnify until we fantasize about becoming a contestant on Naked and Afraid … because wouldn’t covering up with oak leaves and eating berries for dinner just be so much easier than tackling that insane to-do list?

To make matters worse, health experts offer lots of facile advice around this time of year about how best to combat it: Slow down. Take a hot bath. Remember what’s important. Meditate.

As though anyone has time for any of that!

Here’s another, easier solution: Listen to your favorite music.

There’s an impressive amount of scientific research on how effective music is for changing our brain state and reducing the experience of stress.

It used to be thought that classical music held a monopoly on this, but more recent research suggests any music you find pleasurable will create positive brain changes — improved memory, improved mood, and improved immunity, to name just a few benefits.

Here are five easy ways you can use music to de-stress during the holidays:

Keep Your Favorite Playlist Handy

While all music provides neurological benefits (except for music that’s jarring or harsh), researchers have found that music which gives you pleasure has an even greater impact. So, as a Christmas present to yourself, go ahead and create that playlist with your crazy-favorite tracks — the songs you truly love and feel inspired by. Whether it’s a song you were recently turned onto, or something you’ve been belting along to for years, pull together your “A-Team” playlist of songs that make you feel really good.

Listen to Music While You’re Out and About

Thanks to technology, we’re in a time where — short of implanting music directly into our brains (which we assume is coming soon) — music could not be more accessible, more customizable, and more portable. Every cell phone and pair of earbuds can become your own personal stress-busting therapist.

Take advantage of this. Without sacrificing safety or tuning out your surroundings, listen to music while driving, walking through crowded sidewalks, picking up snacks for the holiday party, or waiting on line at the post office. The same situation that might previously have left you furious or fed up can have the opposite result if you’ve been listening to music you find physically energizing or spiritually uplifting. And feeling good is contagious. If you’re tapping your toes while dealing with that frazzled store clerk, your smile and positive mood might just rub off on her, as well.

Sing Along

Singing with emotion has been shown to release oxytocin, also known as the “love hormone.” Oxytocin is a natural human hormone associated with empathy, trust, and relationship-building. So, when you sing along to a song that makes your heart swell, you might just end up wanting to give a hug, as well as a dollar, to that Santa shaking his cup outside the department store.

Topping up your oxytocin reserves means it’s also more likely you’ll be loving and patient with family members, even as the proverbial holiday kaka hits the fan. There’s nothing worse than raging at your spouse or kids just because you’re trying to bake gingerbread cookies with one hand and wrap gifts with the other. Sing along to Mavis Staples as you’re baking, and you might be much more charitable when you’ve discovered your three-year old has just poured molasses all over the sofa. (Though, in truth, the fact that “You Are Not Alone” is a big part of the problem!)

Use Music in Emotionally Challenging Situations

Some research suggests that music which impacts you emotionally has the ability to help process old emotions. These are emotions which — though stored deep in the subconscious — nonetheless influence our present-day mood and behavior. Do you have one of those dreaded family dinners coming up, which inevitably serve up extra helpings of drama and tension alongside the mashed potatoes? Listen to your favorite “sad song” on the way home. Those tears you shed while listening will likely be linked to your old emotional wounds. The sense of clearing and release you feel will be beneficial, even if you aren’t clearing or releasing the original emotional hurt.

Give the Gift of Music

Most of us get financially stressed during the holidays. We live in a consumer culture that worships expensive high-tech offerings while downplaying simplicity. One of the great things about roots music is that it crosses genres and is universally appealing. That playlist you created to help you stay sane during the holidays? Consider burning a CD of it, spiffing it up with a pretty bow and attaching a heartfelt note for a quick, easy gift for multiple people on your list. Like cookies made from a cherished family recipe or a lovingly hand-knit sweater, receiving a “mix tape” consisting of a loved one’s hand-picked songs is like receiving a part of that person’s heart and psyche. People are moved by it. Rather than appearing cheap, it looks unique and thoughtful.

If you want to make it a little extra special, fill a mason jar with epsom salts from the drugstore and offer it alongside the CD with a note expressing your wish for them: peace, relaxation, and (if they’re lucky) maybe even a good cry.

No one has to know it’s the same ol’ playlist you’ve been listening to all season long as your own personal Xanax!


Heather Juergensen is a health and wellness consultant based in Los Angeles. Her company, The Strong Woman, devises natural, non-pharmaceutical solutions for clients dealing with myriad physical and mental health issues, including depression. Find more of her favorite ways to de-stress on her blog.

Lede photo credit: _spy_ on Foter.com / CC BY-SA

Traveler: Your Guide to Jackson Hole

Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is quite literally a hole in the the Teton Mountain Range, created be a 50-mile long, flat valley. This small town, with about 9,500 permanent residents, is the type of place where you pull on your fanciest cowboy boots for a night out drinking whiskey. Found in the northwest corner of Wyoming, Jackson Hole is 6,237 feet high and 2.9 square miles in size. The Western nostalgia and Native American influences are pervasive throughout, making themselves known from statues to studded saddles. Jackson Hole is a city where the most recognizable neon sign in the “skyline” reads “Cowboy Bar,” but the culinary, art, and resort influences give the town a more debonair feel.

Getting There

Yonder Is Jackson Hole. Photo credit: Dhtrible via Wikimedia

United, Delta, and American service Jackson Hole Airport (JAC), the only commercial airport in the U.S. within a national park. The town is 36 miles from the airport, 15 miles from the Idaho border, and 12 miles south of Teton Village. Within Jackson Hole, the public bus system, called START, is so efficient and easy to use you won’t need a car.

Stay

Antler Arch. Photo credit: Ken Lund via Wikimedia

Whether you’re looking for an opulent mountainside villa or a campsite with compost toilets, Jackson Hole has a manifold of accommodations. Alpine House’s European-style, certified eco-friendly lodge serves breakfast prepared by in-house chefs each morning. The Wort — pronounced “The Wirt” in local lingo — is a boutique hotel nearly 80 years in the making, offering quintessentially Western suites and the town’s most hoppin’ music venue, the Silver Dollar Showroom. If you’re rolling in it, Amangani’s rooms have expansive views of the Tetons, plus a ski-in lodge. On the opposite side of the ammenity spectrum, campgrounds abound. Try the Jackson Hole/Snake River Koa, Curtis Canyon Campground or the Hoback Campground.

Eat & Drink

Lotus. Photo credit: @organiclotusjh on Instagram

From classic spots with speakeasy Western vibes like the White Buffalo Room’s house-aged steaks to Lotus’s raw pad Thai made with turnip noodles, this tiny town’s food scene runs the gamut.

Persephone is a popular French-style bakery offering breakfast and lunch options. Pro tip: Order the squash and ricotta toast, featuring creamy butternut squash and ricotta spread with crunchy pumpkin seeds and espresso salt. Their sister restaurant, Picnic, offers the same core baked goods, plus not-so-average breakfast items like biscuits & gravy with Dijon maple creme and goat cheese bacon crumbles. Pinky G’s is the late-night spot of choice, going on five years voted as Jackson Hole’s “Best Pizza.”

For a night out, start with drinks at the Handle Bar, where you can roast s’mores at your table while you sip whiskey neat. Then, head to the Coach for a night of dancing to the renowned Stagecoach Band, who also plays a weekly “Sunday Church” show on Sunday nights.

Adventure

Grand Tetons National Park. Photo credit: Hawthorne Ave via Wikimedia

With two national parks, a national refuge, and myriad public parks situated in Jackson Hole, less than three percent of the land is privately owned. The other 97 percent is state or federal government-owned. All year, outdoorsy tourists roam Jackson Hole. Summer months are full of hiking, fly-fishing, and mountain biking, while winter is for skiing and snowboarding, and spring is the most active time for wildlife viewing.

The sheer grandeur of Grand Teton National Park is right in the name. You can’t go wrong meandering within the park, but don’t miss Cascade Canyon, Granite Canyon, and Amphitheater Lake. The park is a magnet for photographers and technical mountain climbers because of the size and breadth of the mountain range. The entrance fee is $30 per vehicle.

Grand Tetons. Photo credit: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Yellowstone National Park’s south entrance is 90 miles north of Jackson Hole, covering 3,500 square miles of land in Wyoming. It is the oldest national park, gaining status after photographers, painters, and sketchers captured and showed the wonders of the Tetons to Congress in 1872. The park sits on top of an ancient super-volcano and has more than 1,000 of miles of backcountry hiking. Also noteworthy is the National Elk Refuge with thousands of elk making the spot their home for the winter and spring. For the best chance of catching a glimpse of elk, head out with binoculars in the spring.

Of course Jackson Hole is predominantly a ski town, with several resorts close by like the challenging Snow King and the cornerstone of ski resorts in town, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

Art

National Museum of Wildlife Art. Photo credit: Daniel Mayer via Wikimedia

The art scene in Jackson Hole is distinctively Western and home to world-class organizations. From ornately decorated handmade leather saddles to scenes of buffalo upon canvas to jewelry adorned with large hunks of turquoise, strolling the galleries in Jackson Town Square won’t let you forget you’re in equestrian country. We recommend the Congressionally designated National Museum of Wildlife Art, RARE Gallery of Fine Arts, Astoria Fine Art, and Trailside Galleries. 

As for the musical arts, the Pink Garter Theatre hosts a variety of roots artists we love like Elephant Revival and the Lil Smokies. The Silver Dollar Show Room has a bluegrass show every Tuesday night featuring their house band, One Ton Pig, and the Mangy Moose is a solid choice for drinks and live music apres skiing. Our roots music brethren gather in Grand Targhee Resort for the Targhee Bluegrass Festival. Catch classics like Sam Bush, Tim O’Brien, Railroad Earth, and Greensky Bluegrass at this fest recurring yearly since 1988.

Traveler: Your Guide to Moab, Utah

Moab, Utah, is a playground. Seemingly built to climb rocks and rappel down rock faces, this rugged town is surrounded by two national parks and countless state parks. It’s the chaco-wearing, Jeep-driving, Clif Bar-eating crowd’s Mecca. In a valley of red rock, the otherworldly colors and shapes are a reminder of how powerful water and ice can be in shaping a landscape. Rock-peeping tourists, tour guides, local business owners — plus the plants and animals who can survive in the harsh climate — are the occupants of this adventure lovers’ town.

Getting There

About an hour from the Colorado border, Moab isn’t exactly centrally located. The two closest major (read: cheapest) airports are in Salt Lake City and Denver at four hours and five-and-a-half hours away, respectively. Moab is right off Interstate 70, which makes for a long but scenic drive through the mountains from Denver. Grand Junction, Colorado, is an hour-and-a-half away and has a regional airport.

Where to Stay

CloudHouse

Kitschy hotels and “resorts” abound in Moab, but we recommend convening with nature. With campgrounds a-plenty, camping is one of your best bets. Try the Big Bend campground, located on a scenic road right on the Colorado River just a few miles from downtown Moab. Of the resorts, Red Cliffs Lodge stands out as one of the best with large rooms right on the Colorado River and views for days. Airbnb options range from tiny cabins right in town, like Sunny Acres, to plenty of yurts and teepees, which are a popular option. We also recommend staying in the La Sal Mountains outside of town in the “CloudHouse.

The Outdoors

Tower Arch

The two national parks — Arches and Canyonlands — get most of the condign glory in the area. Arches National Park has plenty of rock formations to go around, and most are viewable from the scenic drive which intersects the park. The park offers hikes for every level, from a mere quarter-mile climb leading to the impressive Double Arch, to longer hikes across the primitive landscape involving rock scrambles and sand trekking to the Tower Arch and Devil’s Garden. Heat strategies are encouraged for the summer months, like getting hikes in before noon and toting a liter of water per person at all times.

Canyonlands: Island in the Sky

After visiting Arches, it seems impossible for nearby parks to be any different from the steep, reddish-pink rocks visible for miles, dotted with the grey-green cacti and sagebrush. However, Canyonlands National Park’s immensity and landscape is a stark contrast from Arches. It’s huge and split into four sections with sprawling, steep rock formations. The Needles is a particularly stunning spot to explore for longer trips, and Island in the Sky is a great lookout point for passers-through.

A departure from the desert climate of both Arches and Canyonlands, climbing into the Manti-La Sal National Forest offers a green, lush heat respite and is peppered with archeological sites like dinosaur footprints, giving us Land Before Time throwbacks.

After taking in the scenery by foot, Moab’s thriving adventure tourism scene will prompt you to explore via plane, rope, boat, or 4WD vehicle. We recommend canyoneering with Red River Adventures or flying over Arches in Redtail Air Adventures’ $99 flight. Mill Creek Waterfall provides a much needed place to take a cool dip in the middle of the desert and, if you’re feeling hungry, head to Potato Salad Hill to drive ATVs over the boulders and well-trafficked 4WD trails.

Food & Drink

Quesadilla Mobilla

Admittedly Moab isn’t a foodie town, which makes finding post-adventure grub a bit tougher. Quesadilla Mobilla has flavorful, cheap quesadillas with chipotle sour cream and spicy salsa, plus a courtyard full of water misters to cool you down while their food heats you up. We may have eaten at this downtown food truck three times in five days. Groceries and quick food options are available at Moonflower Community Co-op, a classic organic grocery located in downtown.

There’s no other brewery option in Moab, which makes the choice clear to head to Moab Brewery for post-hike brews. Love Muffin is a breakfast and lunch spot with plenty of veggie options, breakfast sandwiches, plus deliciously strong cold brew. Moab Garage Co. serves nitro ice cream by the friendliest husband and wife entrepreneur duo and offers local art.

The Arts

Moab Made

Certainly inspired by the landscape, local artists — and those just passing through — have created a robust art gallery scene along the main strip. Moab Made features rotating local artists, many of them using recycled materials for their artistry, like a local who makes jewelry from re-tire-d bike tires.

Moab Music Festival pairs musicians with the landscape every summer, offering musical hikes, musical raft trips, and concerts at the edge of the Colorado River. We were lucky enough to see BGS faves Béla Fleck & Abigail Washburn do their witty, endearing, magical thing at the Red Cliffs Lodge.

Local Flair

Back of Beyond Books

Indigo Alley is a well-curated local clothing shop offering men’s and women’s clothing, like leggings patterned with cacti to blend in with your surroundings. Back of Beyond Books has a great selection of regionally specific books for deeper dives into the Utah area and an impressive selection of antique copies of classic literature.

If you’d like to take a bit of the landscape with you, Moab Rock Shop is your souvenir shop. It’s not one of those cheeky rock shops, instead offering pieces from Utah to the Himalayas with rock nerds there to tell you the origin and benefits of each piece.


Lede photo credit: Anthony Quintano via Foter.com / CC BY. All other photos by Josephine Wood.

Traveler: Your Guide to Toronto

Toronto touts itself as the diversely beautiful, densely populated Canadian culture center. It’s probably no coincidence that, in the age of Trump, the city’s current marketing campaign highlights their inclusiveness in the form of the slogan “The views are different here.” It’s not just marketing spin: In fact, 50 percent of the population was born outside of Canada, citizens speak more than 130 languages, and the city government publishes information in 30 languages. Often called “Canada’s Downtown,” this business, media, and sports hub boasts a population of 2.8 million, making it the fourth largest city in North America.

Getting There

 

A new airport rail link makes getting from the airport to downtown Toronto a quick 25-minute ride. Because Canada always seems to get it right, the city’s public transportation is top notch, so you won’t need more than a TTC card while you’re visiting to hop on and off of their subway, bus, and streetcar system.

Where to Stay

 

If you want to stay in the heart of the action, the über-stylish Le Germain Hotel is a good choice. It’s located in downtown on Mercer Street and not too far from the airport. Cambridge Suites Toronto is also centrally located and close to St. Lawrence Market. If you’re going car-less, which is definitely possible, staying close to downtown is your best choice. Toronto’s bed and breakfast game is strong, with more than 100 traditional cottages boasting award-winning gardens. AirBnb it in the charming villages of the trendy Bloor West Village or Cabbagetown, or stay in a uniquely Toronto experience: a Boatel — a boat bed and breakfast on the waterfront.

Eats & Drinks

Photo: Kensington Market by Tourism Toronto

 

The open-air market culture is a unique part of Toronto, and Kensington Market is not to be missed. It’s a multicultural area of about 10 blocks boasting cheese, spices, and tea shops which have been around for years. Try the sourdough at Blackbird Baking Co. and the cardamom/pink pepper/lavender kombucha at Witches Brew.

A quick 15-minute trip across town is another highly trafficked market where maple-flavored everything abounds. Named the top food market in the world by National Geographic, St. Lawrence Market is a 200-year-old traditional market with butchers, bakers, and farmers selling diverse fare. Be sure to try a peameal bacon (a uniquely Canadian treat consisting of pork rolled in cornmeal) sandwich at Carousel Bakery and homemade pasta from one of the artisans.

Photo: @Bar_Raval instagram

 

As for drinks, Bar Raval is a Barcelona-inspired, Gaudi-esque spot for drinks with locals, serving tapas displayed across the bar for you to smell and see before you order.

A multicultural population translates to a worldly food scene, where you can eat your way around the world in Little Portugal, Greektown, Chinatown, Little India, and Little Italy. Toronto is also very into izakayas, which are casual Japanese gastro pubs, and Imanishi is one of the best.

The Gaybourhood

 

Photo: Church and Wellsley by Tourism Toronto

 

Toronto was the first jurisdiction to legalize gay marriage in North America in June of 2003, so it’s no surprise that their gay scene thrives, centered around the intersection of Church and Wellesley downtown. A staple of the gay scene for more than 25 years, Woody’s is the most popular gay men’s bar enjoying popularity from appearances on Queer As FolkEl Convento Rico started as a safe haven underground club for lesbians and trans people who were persecuted and has featured drag shows for more than 20 years. Fabarnak Restaurant is a great brunch spot, plus it serves as a training environment for people with employment barriers to be guided by professional chefs.

 

The Arts

Photo: Street Art by Tourism Toronto

 

The Art Gallery of Ontario hosts the largest collection of Canadian art with an emphasis on Inuit art from the Nation’s beginning, plus much anticipated traveling exhibitions like Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors.

For live music, head to the legendary Horseshoe Tavern, where the Rolling Stones played many impromptu concerts, or Massey Hall,  which hosts BGS faves like Jason Isbell and Andy Shauf. Toronto has an impressive roster of musicians who hail from the area … Shania Twain, anyone?

The city’s architecture is exquisite. Be sure to visit the Distillery Historic District, housing 47 buildings from the 1850s which make up the largest collection of Victorian industrial architecture in North America. From the flat iron to city hall — which looks like a giant unblinking eye — Toronto’s architecture runs the gamut. Street art is encouraged by the city and can be seen in Grafitti Alley, the Kensington Market area, the Ossington Laneway, and on the Keele-Dundas Wall.


Lede photo credit: Benson Kua

eTown: Come for the Music, Stay for the Message

Wife/husband duo Helen and Nick Forster have experienced first-hand how music can facilitate a connection. Both performers, they met backstage at the Telluride Bluegrass Festival in Colorado 30 years ago. While Helen had served as the co-owner and co-producer of the festival from its inception, Nick was a founding member of the acclaimed bluegrass band Hot Rize, which was on the precipice of a long-term hiatus. The couple bonded over music and shared values — including a concern for the environment. In 1991, they launched eTown, a nationally syndicated, independent, nonprofit radio show integrating conversations with community organizers and researchers along with performances and Q&A sessions with musical guests.

“If you imagine what happens at a bluegrass festival, there’s something very fundamental, which is that everyone comes together from disparate backgrounds and walks of life and there’s no vetting of philosophy or political party or socio-economic alignment or anything like that,” Nick says. “They have a shared experience … [and] a common focus … their hearts are being opened by music, which is a very real and palpable and powerful thing … There is that sense of connectedness which means that, by Sunday night, as things are starting to wrap up and people are thinking about heading home and going back to their jobs the next day, going back to their normal concerns and cares, there’s a wistfulness. There’s a little bit of sadness about, ‘Man I was part of something this weekend.’ I think, to a large extent, a community that’s connected like that is also going to do a couple of other things, including looking out for each other. And they also tend to look out for their space … and so all of those things are a part of the DNA of eTown.”

The program’s tagline defines eTown as a place where people come for the music and stay for the message.

“We wanted to give people a place to go where the music brought people together, where everybody was welcome, where the music would be both the connection point and uplifting, but more importantly, we would also stimulate dialogue in conversation about how do we take better care of each other and the planet,” Nick explains.

eTown is recorded weekly in front of a live studio audience at eTown Hall, a 17,000-square-foot converted performance space in the middle of downtown Boulder, Colorado. Once a church, the building features state-of-the-art recording studios, production rooms, and camera and lighting equipment, allowing Nick and Helen to navigate the shifting media landscape. eTown films the performance portion of each show and posts the videos on their website. When deciding which musicians they will feature each week, Nick and Helen say diversity is key.

“We wanted to have musicians who were soulful. We didn’t necessarily want to have any from a particular style. I think we do tend to focus on vocal singers, you know. We don’t do as much instrumental music, for example, because I don’t think it really fits with our show as well as others,” Nick says. “We’ve always tried to feature one well-known act and one less well-known act, so that people can get excited about hearing the person they know, but then get more excited about the discovery piece … We try to mix it up further, so we have one band, one solo, maybe one male, one female, maybe one from one musical tradition and one from another, because at the end, everybody plays together for the finale and so we want to make sure that the finales are kind of like, ‘Wow that’s a weird combination.’ You’ve got a singer/songwriter and a hip-hop artist, or you’ve got a bluegrass musician and a blues guy, or you’ve got a Cajun band playing with a Latina band from Los Angeles or whatever it is.”

The other segments of the show address social and environmental issues — from homelessness and hunger to air pollution and compromising the oceans. But in 1991, eTown was ahead of the curve when it came to these discussions. Climate change and global warming weren’t even concepts at the forefront of public or political discourse.

“There was a lot of apathy at the time, and people are not apathetic because they’re bad people. It’s usually because things seem overwhelming and you don’t feel like you have any power to do anything,” Helen explains. “So we wanted to bring people in and give them some food for thought. We wanted to inform them and, most of all, we wanted them to be inspired to get involved. We wanted to bring our skills together in order to create something that was really welcoming across the board: Wherever you were, you’re in eTown.”

This idea led to the creation of the eChievement Award, which Helen gives to one winner each week, inviting them to speak about their work on the show. Nominated by other listeners, eChievement honorees are citizens who are actively trying to improve their communities. “We’ve tried to be solutions-oriented,” Nick says. “We’ve tried to highlight the problems but also think about things that are working and things that are positive in the age of Trump and those things are welcome. We hear from listeners that are like, ‘Thank God, there’s something positive out there in media.”

After 26 years, Nick and Helen believe eTown is just getting started.

“The reason for doing eTown, I think, is more important now than ever because we are entering into this time in our nation’s history where politics have become so divisive and so violent, frankly, and the idea that we need to come together particularly around some core issues that are relevant and important for all of us. I mean, it is absolutely critical that we find some common ground,” Nick says. “And we are more committed than ever to making sure that we can use music to bring people together — but not gloss over the details — and talk about what’s important and talk about what we can all do, each of us, to try to address these issues that are absolutely critical for our future. So I’m super pumped about both our history and our legacy, but especially about our future.”

Traveler: Your Guide to Fayetteville, Arkansas

Home to the University of Arkansas, the northwest Arkansas town of Fayetteville is an artful and musically inclined college town surrounded by the scenic Ozark Mountains. Maybe there’s something in the water, because northwest Arkansas is home to some big businesses, as well, including Walmart, Tyson Foods, and J.B. Hunt. More than 300 Fortune 500 companies can be found here — one reason the area continues to be a destination for international businesses. It’s not all business, though. Explore Fayettechill like a local by biking the Frisco Trail, stopping for local beer and music along the way.

Getting There

Fayetteville has a regional airport with direct flights from select big cities to northwest Arkansas Regional Airport (XNA). It’s a quick 30-ish mile trip from Missouri and Oklahoma, and a couple of hours from Springfield, Illinois, and Tulsa, Oklahoma.

Where to Stay

The Dickson Street Inn is the top-rated bed & breakfast in the city and is in a Victorian house built in the 1800s. If you want the local flair, your best will be AirBnb accommodations to avoid chain hotels and stay like a local. Prices range from $80-100 per night.

What to Do

 

Lake Sequoyah, courtesy of Fayettevillear.gov

Our Traveler locations all have a common thread: natural beauty. We’re admittedly nature enthusiasts, and picking Fayetteville was no exception. Lake Sequoyah sits on 1,400 acres of land and is a notable bird watching and swimming spot. Home to more than 40 miles of trails, Fayetteville’s trail system is designated as one of 37 International Mountain Bicycling Association Ride Centers in the world. The Frisco Trail is a great way to explore Fayetteville by bike, connecting Dickson Street to south Fayetteville.

Botanical Gardens, courtesy of the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks

The Botanical Garden of the Ozarks hosts 12 themed gardens and a butterfly house on an immaculately maintained property showcasing the woody, herbaceous, and exotic plants and flowers that thrive in northwest Arkansas.

Embrace your inner nerd and visit the Fayetteville Public Library, ranked one of the top libraries in America by USA Today. The library has the busiest self-service checkout kiosk in North America, and is a notably green building. For the politically inclined, the Clinton House Museum is of note. Home to the first family of Fayetteville, Bill and Hillary’s former abode and marriage venue is located near the University of Arkansas’ campus, where both taught in the 1970s.

What to Eat & Drink

Arsagas eats, courtesy of Arsagas Depot

Arsagas Depot is housed in an old freight depot, specializing in crepes, coffee, and a full service, locally focused menu. Get your fancy ‘za fix at Wood Stone Craft Pizza with Thai curry pizza and $2 local draft beer during happy hour. For the veggies, Greenhouse Grille is the local go-to. A gem of the town, Little Bread Co’s motto is, “Everything tastes homemade, because it is!” Grab Seinfeld-themed bagel sandwiches and coffee right off the square at this spot. Dirty Apron Bakehouse is another new bakery in town that comes highly recommended. Head to the College Avenue Yacht Club for all kinds of food truck fare.

Get your mixology on at Maxine’s, one of the oldest bars in town, while whiskey aficionados will love Smoke and Barrel. For all other drinking needs, Dickson Street’s got ya covered. It’s full of a variety of a mix of dives and fancy cocktail spots.

The Arts

I’m With Her, courtesy of Fayetteville Roots Festival

George’s Majestic Lounge opened its doors in 1927 and has been hosting live music ever since. It’s the longest-running venue in Arkansas and hosts BGS faves like Elephant Revival and Nikki Lane. The performing arts thrive at Walton Arts Center on Dickson Street. Block Street Records is a not-so-hidden gem of a record store, hosting local music and art shows.

Perhaps the pinnacle of the music scene in Fayetteville culminates with a widely renowned festival called Fayetteville Roots. Recurring each August, the annual event spans four days and features dozens of musicians on indoor and outdoor venues throughout downtown. Catch BGS there this August alongside performers like the Wood Brothers, Rodney Crowell, River Whyless, and many more BGS sweethearts.

Fayetteville’s art community is evidenced in the bustling gallery scene, and> Fayetteville Underground stands out among the rest as a hotspot for local artists. Nightbird Books is a great small contemporary book shop that has readings and art shows fairly regularly.Dickson Street Bookshop is another local bookshop and our favorite place to buy used books because of the vintage, European vibes.

Crystal Bridges, courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

The world famous Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art is a worthy day trip away. Everything from the art it houses to the architecture of the building to the free admission make it a great experience.