Traveler: Your Guide to Raleigh

Coined the "Research Triangle," the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area is a hotbed of creativity and invention located in the northeast central region of North Carolina. As one giant “college town” encompassing North Carolina State University, Duke University, and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Triangle has nurtured indie rock, punk, hip-hop, metal, and, of course, roots music. Historically, North Carolina has played a key role in the long-standing tradition of bluegrass and old-time, which makes it the perfect setting for the World of Bluegrass homecoming.

Getting There

Just 20 minutes from downtown Raleigh, the Raleigh-Durham International Airport is the main airport serving the Triangle. Ground transportation is provided by the airport tax service, the Triangle Transit Authority, and local shuttle companies. Cab fare is an estimated $30, but hotels typically offer their own shuttle services to and from the airport. For non-flight options, try Amtrak or Megabus.

Lodging

Outdoor lounge area at the Umstead Hotel and Spa

The Umstead Hotel and Spa is technically in Cary, North Carolina, just five minutes from the Raleigh-Durham International Airport. Set on 12 acres of land with a lake and wooded gardens, this is a luxury option for travelers looking for some R&R in their down time. For something more affordable, an Airbnb search pulls up over 300 listings in the Raleigh area, ranging from historic homes to downtown condos.

Coffee

A delicate pour at 42 & Lawrence

Located in the new Skyhouse building in downtown Raleigh, organic coffee bar 42 & Lawrence is a must. This inventive coffeehouse comes complete with a row of taps and a juice rail for pressed juice on-site. Some of the tap offerings include kombucha, cold brew coffee, nitro cold brew, and experiments like the “draft latte” (a mixture of cold brew coffee, Jersey cow milk, and housemade vanilla syrup) and a “Black and Tan” (cold brew coffee combined with the draft latte).

Food

Dining room at Death + Taxes restaurant

Since moving to Raleigh, Chef Ashley Christensen has carved out a niche refining Southern comfort food. Each new venture she opens is even more anticipated than the last, so it’s worth stopping by any of her establishments while you’re in town. Opened back in 2007, Poole’s Diner was one of downtown Raleigh’s first restaurants, while Joule Coffee + Table combines Durham-based Counter Culture coffee with moderately priced Southern fare. If you’re looking for a fine dining option, one of the latest offerings from AC Restaurants, Death + Taxes, is your go-to. It’s a culinary playground where octopus is an appetizer and “foraged and ‘fought for’ mushrooms” soaked in sherry and brown sugar is an entree.

Drink

Front room at the Raleigh Beer Garden

The aptly named Raleigh Beer Garden is three stories high and boasts the world’s largest draft beer selection in one restaurant. With over 350 beers on tap, there’s a sizable amount of North Carolina craft beers. A large tree extends to the ceiling in the front room, so you get that natural feel even from indoors. But it wouldn’t be a beer garden without an outdoor space and, with a patio and rooftop, there’s plenty to go around.

The brand new Whiskey Kitchen in downtown Raleigh’s Nash Square specializes in — you guessed it — whiskey. But there are beer and wine offerings, too, along with a dinner menu. The site of an old automotive shop, the bar has large garage doors and an open kitchen. Exposed brick walls and ceiling pipes, along with a wall-spanning mural by local artist Taylor White, lends the space an air that’s one part industrial and one part Southern comfort.

Shopping

Mid-century seats at Father & Son Antiques

Whether you’re on the hunt for designer steals or kitsch novelty, Father & Son Antiques has you covered. The West Hargett Street shop has become a destination for locals and out-of-towners alike, notorious for its stock of highly coveted mid-century modern furniture and accessories at moderate prices. It’s chock full of other goodies, too: vintage clothing, books, and, most importantly, records.

Music Venues

Koka Booth Amphitheater in Cary

While North Carolina is a breeding ground for roots music, it’s also home to a wider array of genres from hip-hop to punk to metal. In order to accommodate all of this diversity, the Triangle is equipped with venues of all shapes and sizes. As far as larger, outdoor venues, there’s Red Hat Amphitheater in downtown Raleigh, Walnut Creek Amphitheater, and the picturesque Koka Booth Amphitheater in Cary. For a more local vibe, check out the Pour House Music Hall in Moore Square Art District in downtown Raleigh, Cat’s Cradle in Carrboro, or the Pinhook in Durham.

Local Flavor

The pools at NCMA

The North Carolina Museum of Art (NCMA) is a behemoth of artistic innovation in itself. This month, it was selected as one of the top 125 most important works of architecture built since 1891 by Architectural Record. This free admission museum is home to contemporary art, works from the European Renaissance, Greek and Roman vases, and American art from the 18th through the 20th centuries. It also hosts concerts, films, classes, and performances. In the midst of a $13 million expansion, the museum’s outdoor park boasts 164 acres and is accentuated by landscaped sculpture gardens, courtyards, and reflecting pools.


Lede photo: Durant Nature Preserve. Photo credit: rharrison via Foter.com / CC BY-SA.

IBMA’s Big Move

BY THOMAS GOLDSMITH 
GUEST COLUMNIST

 

Please come to Raleigh in 2013.

That’s the message being sent out by the International Bluegrass Music Association and from my hometown of Raleigh, North Carolina.

After checking out a number of different locations, the IBMA announced this May that its annual World of Bluegrass event would land in Raleigh for the years 2013, 2014 and 2015. It will stay in Nashville again this year and previously was in Owensboro and Louisville, Ky.

But why Raleigh?

There are plenty of good reasons. (I promise I will get to a few drawbacks here in a minute…) One major plus consists of a new downtown convention center, an outdoor amphitheater across the street and a walking-distance complex of three performance halls.

Also, not only Raleigh but also the neighboring towns of Chapel Hill, Durham and Cary have thriving bluegrass, acoustic and old-timey music scenes. That means there will be ready-made audiences for the public parts of the event.

We don’t (yet) have an Allison Krauss or a Del McCoury living here, but the immediate area is home to folks such as picker-dealers Jim Mills and Tony Williamson; bands such as Russell Johnson and Grass Cats and Carolina Road; record company founders such as Barry Poss and Dave Evans; old-timey legends such as Alice Gerrard and the Red Clay Ramblers; and new standard-bearers such as the Steep Canyon Rangers. Thrown in the burgeoning jam-grass field symbolized by Charlotte’s Avett Brothers and you’ve a little world of bluegrass right around home.

Maybe just as significantly, the Triangle (consisting of Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill) can also claim a rich history involving the dawning years of bluegrass. It was while appearing on local powerhouse radio station WPTF that brothers Bill and Charlie Monroe built a huge audience in the Carolinas and made their first recordings for Victor. Of course, they also broke up their partnership in Raleigh, but how else was Bill going to start the original Blue Grass Boys?

WPTF was also home to Lester Flatt and Earl Scruggs in 1952, when the Foggy Mountain boys took up residence in Raleigh at least long enough for Earl’s son Randy to be born here. Generations of hillbilly music fans kept their radios locked in to 680 AM to hear the Stanley Brothers, Jim Eanes, Mac Wiseman, Clyde Moody, Kitty Wells, Johnny and Jack, Chet Atkins and countless others who did stints at WPTF.

“In terms of the history, I think North Carolina is every bit as much the birthplace of bluegrass as Kentucky,’ mandolinist Williamson told me during an interview for the local paper newspaper, The News & Observer.

Moving into the 1960s, the beginnings of the newgrass movement found an early welcome in the Triangle, with the homegrown New Deal String Band and frequent visitors New Grass Revival building a fan base for their rock-influenced sound and long-haired look among the area’s tens of thousands of college students. Through the decades bluegrass, has kept a strong hold on listeners in North Carolina, from small-scale picking sessions to major festivals such as North Wilkesboro’s Merlefest.

And those drawbacks? Raleigh often shows up on national best-of lists in categories such as business environment, percentage of college graduates, low crime and livability. It’s a great place to raise children in and … local voices tend to trail off before muttering the b-word: ‘Boring.’

At one point, true enough. Until quite recently, a big night in downtown Raleigh might consist of trying to get into one of the few restaurants that stayed open after business people headed home to the suburbs, then maybe locating one of the few clubs that featured live music. And there’s the city’s symbol of a giant acorn in a city park, eh? Not perhaps the most riveting trademark: ‘The City of Oaks, where you can watch trees grow.’
But in the last few years, a new public and private emphasis on downtown has brought thousands of new residents and plenty of good restaurants to the area that includes the convention center and walking distance thereof. There are also a number of of live-music spaces expected to feature live bluegrass during the IBMA event.

It should be noticeably less expensive to be in Raleigh than in Nashville for several days. And attendees will be surrounded by locals who are crazy about music of all kinds. 
While far from a traditional bluegrass show, folk-pop-rocker Natalie Merchant recently had to pop out from backstage after she had performed for about 90 minutes at the Meymandi Concert Hall, one of the top-level venues near the convention site. A packed house had been standing, cheering, pleading for an encore for close to 10 minutes when Merchant came back out and signaled for quiet.

‘We’re coming back!’ she said, ‘It’s just intermission.’
   
For more information about the International Bluegrass Music Association, or to register for this year’s World of Bluegrass conference, visit http://ibma.org/.  For a list of other events to visit while in North Carolina check out www.carolinamusicfests.com