3×3: Julie Christensen on SXSW, Senior Year, and Splitting the Geographic Difference

Artist: Stone Cupid / Julie Christensen
Hometown: Nashville, TN
Latest Album: The Cardinal
Rejected Band Name: Piehole

 

On my walk this morning.

A photo posted by Julie Christensen (@stonecupid) on

If you had to live the life of a character in a song, which song would you choose?
I have lived the character in the Randy Newman song "Marie." I think she may be the girl in "The Cardinal."

Where would you most like to live or visit that you haven't yet?
I had "astro-cartography" done a long time ago, and was told to go to the Portuguese islands of the Azores in the Atlantic. So I would like to go. They're supposed to be what's left of the lost civilization of Atlantis.

What was the last thing that made you really mad?
I can't tell you what it was exactly … probably a friend getting sick or dying because of the inequity in our health care system.

 

Oh, hell yeah.

A photo posted by Julie Christensen (@stonecupid) on

What's the best concert you've ever attended?
I can't decide between two concerts: In 2008 during SXSW, I heard Chuck Prophet and the Mission Express in a sweaty basement full of 300 people rock with the same fire and abandon we all carried in the '80s in that punk scene in L.A. (So glad I have that Chuck Prophet song on The Cardinal.) Same with X at the Ryman last year: John Doe said "Ernest Tubb must be turning over in his grave …"

What was your favorite grade in school?
When I was a senior, all I had left to take was French IV, dance team, and Chorus.

What are you reading right now?
A book of stories by Canadian author Alice Munro that my co-producer Jeff Turmes gave me, called The Love of a Good Woman. I've been savoring, for a good while, her exploration of the depth inside these Great Plains "plain folk." These are my people. Kind of dark down in the soul.

 

Vintage Feet. Well-traveled.

A photo posted by Julie Christensen (@stonecupid) on

Whiskey, water, or wine?
For the last 28-and-a-half years, water.

North or South?
Somewhere in the middle.

Pizza or tacos?
Tacos. Hello.


Photo credit: Michael Kelly

The Producers: Buddy Miller

Even if you weren’t already aware that Cayamo Sessions at Sea was recorded on a cruise ship, even if the title didn’t spell out the circumstances of the album’s creation, you could probably guess as much. Featuring several generations of roots artists covering old country songs, the record sounds sunny and breezy, light but not lightweight. Buddy Miller and Lee Ann Womack make “After the Fire Is Gone” sound more about the make-up than the break-up, and Elizabeth Cook emphasizes the buying rather than the crying on “If Teardrops Were Pennies.” Even Kris Kristofferson’s new take on “Sunday Morning Coming Down” sounds like nothing so serious as having to disembark at the end of a week at sea.

It’s to Miller’s considerable credit that none of that is a bad thing. A producer and central performer, he keeps things light, as though you’re flipping through vacation photos, but that strategy showcases the amiable dynamic between performers and singers more than the ocean-bound environs. It sounds like it would have been a blast to make, even if they held the sessions in an outhouse or a bank vault.

For nearly a decade, Miller has been a prominent figure on the Cayamo Cruise, which sails from Miami to St. Maarten and Tortola and features a who’s who of roots and country artists. In that time, he’s only missed one boat, and that’s only because he was recovering from a heart attack. It struck him onstage but, professional that he is, he finished the song.

Over the last 40 years, Miller has emerged as one of the most imaginative musicians in Nashville, both on the stage and in the studio. A former Deadhead turned sideman turned producer, he has helmed albums for a mind-boggling range of artists: Shawn Colvin, Emmylou Harris, the Carolina Chocolate Drops, the Devil Makes Three, the McCrary Sisters, Dr. Ralph Stanley, and Robert Plant. When Patty Griffin wanted to make a gospel record, he had her sing at the pulpit of the Downtown Presbyterian Church in Nashville, with the band on the floor playing up to her.

“Every record has a story to tell,” he says. “Every record is a whole different world. I don’t come into anything with a preconceived nothing. I might hear things before we go in, but I won’t impose that on an artist. I just hire the players I love and see what’s going to happen.”

Why did you want to make an album on the Cayamo Cruise?

I grew up loving music, in general. I loved blues. I loved rock. I loved folk. I was a Deadhead at the age of 14. When their first record came out, I bought it pretty much for the cover. And then I started going to every show I could make it to, until around ’72 when Porter Waggoner, Tammy Wynette, and Ralph Stanley won that war. I stayed in that country music camp and gradually drifted away from the Dead. But I remember, from that very first show, there was a sense of one big family coming to those Dead shows. Now, it’s legendary and they make movies about it, but even at those first shows, you’d see the same people. They were immediate friends — an extended family. Everybody loved each other and everybody was there for the same reason.

I guess that’s a long way of saying that there’s a similar feeling on the boat, although it’s a different … I hate to use the word “demographic.” Is that what the politicians are using these days? It’s a different set of people, but all with the same heart. They’re all there for the music. It’s not a party boat. It’s a lot of people — 2,000 or 2,500 people — and I just want to hang out with them all. They’re all great. And I thought it would be interesting for them to have the veil pulled back on the process of recording. That’s why I did it. I don’t think people have any idea how records are made. I don’t even know how magical records are made. How does that magic happen? So we’re showing them the nuts and bolts — what musicians do, how they play together in a room, pick a track, fix it up, do all that stuff. I thought that would be of interest to these people that I love. That, and I worked on this television show called Nashville. I don’t know if you’ve ever seen it …

Definitely.

I worked on the pilot for Callie [Khouri, who created the show], and then, when the first season got picked up, I worked with T Bone Burnett producing [the music for] it. Most of the things we produced together, I would say. I continued with it, but I think it drove him crazy. I have a higher tolerance for bullshit, I guess. But now I love it and I love the people — especially these two little girls, the Stella Sisters. John Prine was going to be on the cruise, and what I wanted to hear was those two little girls, the Stella Sisters, singing, “Daddy, won’t you take me back to Muhlenberg County?” And then John would come in singing the verses to “Paradise.” It seemed like a good thing to document. It’ll make the sweetest record. Unfortunately, John got sick and couldn’t make it.

But that was where the idea came from. What I do is, I try to engineer collaborations. That’s just how I think: Let’s pair this with that. I think in collaborative terms. I don’t know if it’s because I’m lazy and don’t want to do all the work by myself. But I think it’s because I just want to hear certain things. Shawn Colvin asked me to do a record of hers a while back, and I thought, "You know what? Brian Blade and Bill Frisell. I would love to hear her voice framed by those two musicians." That’s what I’m talking about. It’s all about coming up with your dream teams.

Tell me about setting up a studio on the boat.

I asked one of the engineers I work with, Gordon Hammond, if he wanted to go on this cruise. We bought a bunch of microphones, a lot of gear, and set up in what was a bowling alley on the ship. We managed to turn it into this vibey … I hate that word, “vibey.” It’s very homey and warm, with all our gear set up and the band set up in a circle. There are about 100 chairs, because we couldn’t fit more than that in there and I didn’t want the sound of more than 100 people breathing on the same time to work its way onto the record.

What are some of the challenges that come with recording on a boat?

I guess I don’t look at it that way. There are certainly challenges, like when somebody turned on the wrong light switch. Boats just have a lot of switches on them. We couldn’t always tell what they were for, so somebody turned on the disco ball accidentally and it started blasting some dance song. That was actually a fun moment. And an easy problem to fix. You just don’t want to stop if there’s a flow going. It’s as much about the lighting in the room, the air in the room, how it feels. All of that affects the music. Outside of that, there aren’t really any challenges that are any different from recording on land.

The one and only cruise ship I’ve been on felt very institutional to me. Aside from the scenery and the sun, it didn’t feel like it would be especially conducive to making music.

That could be anywhere. That could be any recording studio. It’s all about … I don’t want to use the word “staging.” I’ve been working on television too long. But it’s about the feel of the room, how close people are together. I like people to be right on each other. You can bring in nice-looking rugs, even on a cruise ship. You can drape things on the wall, turn the lights down. You can make any room feel nice. That’s what we did in that bowling alley, which actually felt pretty nice to begin with. And it felt great when we had it set up and started recording. I think everyone enjoyed themselves — the artists and the audience. They loved to see that recording process, even though this isn’t really the process. The vocals went down with the track, and the track went down fairly complete. Maybe a couple of tracks have two or three overdubs and a few vocal fixes, so it’s not really like making a record. It’s a little more honest than that, but it still gives people a view into that world.

So there’s an instructive or an educational element to this project.

Exactly. I thought, if people love music enough to get on the boat, then they might love to see that process and see how artists say, "You try singing that part. Let’s flip on the chorus, and you take the harmony while I take lead. Let’s leave that line out. Hold the drum till the chorus. Don’t have the bass come in until the fourth bar." All of that stuff is worked out long before the audience gets involved, so they don’t know what goes into it. This is a very, very simplified version, but it’s still something I think they find fascinating.

There’s a nice range of artists on this album. You have younger artists like Kacey Musgraves alongside older singers like Kris Kristofferson. Was that something you were thinking about, that generational exchange?

Yeah. It’s a funny thing: My name is on the record, so I have to be involved somehow, playing or singing or just having a presence on it. My part is very minimal, but I had to be there. If it was just me doing whatever I wanted to do, I probably wouldn’t even be on half of those tracks. I would have put Kacey singing with Kris or someone else, not me. But it’s my record company and my name goes on the album, so I have to do something. I think it’s a good record. I like it. Maybe because I don’t hear myself is why I like it so much. That’s what makes my records so hard to listen to.

Nashville is like no other place in the world for songwriting. People come here from all over the world — songwriters, young singers, all these young women. In addition to the cruise and the television series, I do a radio show on Sirius XM. Usually it’s weekly, or just whenever I can get it done. I have a guest come over every week, and lately I’ve had some of these younger writers that I run into. I find it amazing that they’ve been doing this since the age of 13 or 14. That’s when I knew I was going to be making music for the rest of my life, but some of these kids have already started writing songs. A lot of them have their parents’ support, too. That was something that wasn’t really around, when I was a kid. My parents wanted me to do anything but music, maybe because there was this whole other subculture that was tied to the music. I think there’s less money in it now than there was when I got started. I think. I don’t really know much about that end of it, but it does seem like the music business has dried up. You might know more about that than I do.

I hear conflicting reports. Some people say it’s still possible and there’s great music being made, and others are very pessimistic. I guess it all depends on who I’m talking to.

There’s always great music. Sometimes you just have to look a little harder for it. I think with downloads and iTunes and everything, it’s more about singles than it is about albums. That’s the part I miss. You would make a record. The Grateful Dead made Anthem of the Sun in 1968, and you wouldn’t think about chopping it up into 10 little songs. Ralph Stanley made Something Old Something New back in the early ‘70s and, even though I’m sure there was no intention of it being a themed record, it just flowed together so well that you had to listen to it in that sequence. You wouldn’t want to download just one song. Or Porter Wagoner. He was doing concept records before the Beatles. So I’m glad vinyl’s making a comeback.

I think that’s something that’s overlooked in country music, especially. There are so many incredible singles, but there are a lot of amazing albums, too. Making a good record is a very different process than making a great song.

I don’t know a whole lot of big country artists. Well, I know some, I guess, and I think they still look at it as as making a record. And gosh, when I was growing up — and I’m old! — it was about the single. That’s what got played on the radio, in mono. It was all about the mono mix. So, maybe, in a way it’s not so different; but I would make a point to buy the albums and listen to side one all the way through, then side two. There might be a stinker in the middle of side two, but that was all part of the package.

When you start working with an artist, is that what you’re thinking about as a producer? Are you looking at these projects as albums rather than songs?

Completely. It’s funny you ask that, because I’ve never thought about it. I think that’s because I don’t produce anything that is going to end up where people are going to care about singles. In my mind, the audience is buying an album, so we’re making an album. I just finished a record with Steve Earle and Shawn Colvin — a duets record. They’ve made some incredible records, and all they cared about with this one was the vinyl. Steve, in particular, was very concerned with sequencing for vinyl. We cut a lot of songs together, but we just put enough songs on there that would fit and sound great on vinyl. I’m happy to be thinking along those lines.

That’s one thing I actually went to school for as a kid, was to learn to use a Scully lathe. For most of my life, that was a great skill to have. Then it became pretty useless. I don’t actually have a lathe. I have enough useless stuff in my house that weighs 500 pounds. But I like being around all that old equipment with all of its old smells.

I do think the weight of that equipment — the tactile quality of it, the smell, and look of it — does add to the way you experience music.

I’ve got so many old, heavy microphones. I guess the heaviest one I have is an RCA 44-BX, that big … I don’t know what you call that shape. Not the big egg, but the one with the angles on it. You see Frank Sinatra singing into it all the time. It weighs a ton. It’ll take down any mic stand. It’s a warm mic, a beautiful-sounding mic, so it’s difficult to record with. But I’ll put that up or my old Neumann U47 because they take the singer someplace. You look into that thing; you get up close to it and you can smell it. You look into that thing and you start singing and you think about who has sung into it for decades. That’s part of creating the world that you record in, and it affects the music. There are great new microphones, of course. I keep buying new ones that sound really good, but when it comes to the singer trying to tell a story, you have to give them a mic that’s really been down the road.


Photo credit: CJ Hicks

WATCH: Kris Orlowski, ‘Carry Your Weight’

Artist: Kris Orlowski
Hometown: Seattle, WA
Song: "Carry Your Weight"
Album: Often in the Pause
Release Date: May 6

In Their Words: "When I was writing the last album, I spent a lot of time in Nashville and L.A. This is one of the tracks that came from my time in the South. On this album, we pushed for more of a band sound than my singer/songwriter roots. This track feels like it bridges the gap between where I've been and where I'm going. It was a relief when we finished recording it as a band, because it feels like it maintains the soul of the original version written with a guitar and voice. It was nice to add a visual to the song, because it gave us a chance to put a different lens on it without being too literal." — Kris Orlowski


Photo credit: Jake Grabrot

Experience Your Favorite Cities Through These Vintage Photo Collections

Everyone likes to talk about the "good ol' days" of their city — the days before high rises and high-end coffee shops took over and a little bit of history got squeezed out as a result. Most people, however, neglect to look much past the decade or two they've lived in a certain spot, forgetting the years of growth and change that brought the city to its current incarnation. We've rounded up some of our favorite spots on the web to check out cool, historic photos of some of our favorite cities, and you can give them a look.

Nashville, TN

Bob Grannis and Leila Grossman

Grannis Photography has an extensive collection of vintage photos of Nashville, from way back when at the Grand Ole Opry to the days when Green Hills Market was a fixture in what is now Trader Joe's and Whole Foods territory. The site is run by professional Nashville photographer Leila Grossman, who bought the photo archives of Bob Grannis in 1997.

Denver, CO

Photo via Denver Public Library

The digital archives of the Denver Public Library are a gold mine of historic photos, many of which are essential to understanding Western history. With over 50 collections of photographs available, the archive is sure to have something for everyone.

Chattanooga, TN

Chattanooga has a lot of history, and Deep Zoom Chattanooga is one of the web's best resources for exploring it. The image galleries, which are categorized by decade and go back to the 1800s, were pulled together by Sam Hall, a history enthusiast who spent years making the project into what it is today. 

Portland, OR

City of Portland Archives, Oregon, SE 4514 E Burnside Street near SE 45th Avenue, A2011-013, 1964

Vintage Portland is a photo blog created and run by the City of Portland Archives and Records Center. With categories broken down by both decade and geographic location, the blog is a wonderful source for anyone looking for the history of a specific Portland locale.

Los Angeles, CA

Photo via Shorpy

Shorpy, an online archive of historic photos from all over, has an extensive collection of vintage photos of Los Angeles, ranging from Old Hollywood to early businesses in some of the city's most popular neighborhoods. 

Chicago, IL

Photo via Shorpy

Shorpy is also a wonderful resource for historic photos of Chicago, collecting early images of landmarks like Grant Park and showing what 1910 Chicagoans saw as a "Changing Chicago."


Lede photo: City of Portland Archive, Oregon, Logan Oldsmobile Company on the corner of SE Grand Avenue and SE Yamhill Street, A2011-013, 1961

3×3: Escondido on ELO, Red Wine, and a Serious Lack of Toothpaste Loyalty

Artist: Tyler James (of Escondido)
Hometown: Nashville, TN
Latest Album: Walking with a Stranger
Nicknames: TJ Cinnamons: People sometimes call me TJ and, years ago on tour, we discovered Arby's serves "TJ Cinnamons" brand coffee … thus it began.

Who is the most surprising artist in current rotation in your iTunes/Spotify?
Obsessed with Jeff Lynne / ELO … His new record is perfection.

Who would play you in the Lifetime movie of your life?
Dances with Wolves-era Kevin Costner, obviously

If the After-Life exists, what song will be playing when you arrive?
Ennio Morricone's "The Mission"

 

spent the weekend in west Tennessee writing songs w/ our long time bud @kateyork ❤️

A photo posted by ESCONDIDO (@escondidoband) on

What brand of toothpaste do you use?
I have no toothpaste loyalties.

What's your beverage of choice?
Coffee, Old Fashioned, all red wine.

What's your favorite TV show?
The West Wing

Star Wars or Star Trek?
Star Trek has many intriguing complexities, but nothing touches the original Star Wars trilogy.

Taylor Swift or Ryan Adams?
Ryan Adams … his first record, Heartbreaker, was recorded here in Nashville at Woodland Studios and it's incredible.

Coffee or tea?
Coffee

3×3: Miss Tess on Weymann Guitars, Wonder Woman, and the Organizational Power of OCD

Artist: Miss Tess
Hometown: Currently Nashville, TN
Latest Album: One Match Fire
Personal Nicknames: Mama T

 

Happy birthday to moi and love to everyone from England

A photo posted by Miss Tess (@misstessmusic) on

Your house is burning down and you can grab only one thing — what would you save?
My 1930s Weymann guitar, of course.

If you weren't a musician, what would you be?
A visual artist.

How many unread emails or texts currently fill your inbox?
Six — I'm OCD, so if everyone would stop emailing me, that'd be great.

 

Packed house tonight in Madrid with @eilen_jewell ! @iwannamanagement @ilikemusicto0 #talkbacktour

A photo posted by Miss Tess (@misstessmusic) on

What is the one thing you can’t survive without on tour?
My own pillow

If you had to get a tattoo of someone's face, who would it be?
Tom Waits … though it wouldn't be pretty.

Who is your favorite superhero?
Wonder Woman

 

Thank you Spain! #talkbacktour

A photo posted by Miss Tess (@misstessmusic) on

The Simpsons or South Park?
South Park

Dolly or Loretta?
Dolly

Meat lover's or veggie?
Meat


Photo credit: Shervin Lainez

1767 Designs Repurpose the Rubble of Old Nashville

Thanks to TV shows, New York Times articles, and a resulting boom in new people moving to the city, Nashville has changed a lot over the last five years. Buildings have gone up — and so has rent — and many Nashville businesses have been forced under in the process. Nashville woodworker Patrick Hayes, of 1767 Designs — a company that uses wood and materials from homes and buildings destroyed in the city — has made it his mission to create furniture and art "from Nashville's urban decay."

"As with most things in my life, I cannot say that I had some grand plan–I more or less fall into things–the same is true about 1767," Hayes explains. "I moved to TN in the winter of 2014 with only my clothes and my laptop. SO when I finally got an apartment situation figured out, I needed to furnish the place. I could have gone the Ikea route and bought a bunch of cheaply made stuff, but I decided that since I had an excess of time, and did not have a job, that I would make the furniture myself. In the midst of sending out tons of applications for potential jobs, I worked on my first piece: a coffee table. Since I had not yet found a job, my budget was small. I started to look for materials I could use that were relatively inexpensive but still had a lot of character. I found a guy who had collected wood from old homes down the street from where I lived, and he just so happened to have a small pile of lath that he was planning to burn. I purchased the small pile of wood and got to work. I had little to no tools when starting out, so I mostly worked with a small handsaw, a hammer, and nails. It took me a while, but I had made a pretty unique piece of furniture that I was proud of."

As development in Nashville has taken off like wildfire, Hayes has had no shortage of materials to work with. "It is a bittersweet situation happening in Nashville right now," he says. "On one hand I am so excited to call Nashville home, and see it grow in the ways that it has being here for as short of a time as I have. On the other hand it is really sad to see some beautiful homes being torn down to make room for shotgun houses with little to no unique qualities. I am trying my best to create a positive from something seemingly negative. Nashville is going to grow, and change whether we like it or not. Homes are going to continue to be torn down to make room for more homes, and there isn't much that can be done to stop it in the immediate future. But, if I can take apart a home, transform it into something new and unique, and let its history live on in another form, I think that is a pretty powerful thing."

Check out a few of our favorite pieces from Hayes.

Wall hanging made from materials found in a 12 South home built in 1926.

Coffee table made from materials found in a West End home built in 1900.

Barn wood wall installed in East Nashville.

Door made from materials from two 12 South homes.

Fireplace cover made from materials from a 1940s home in the Nations.

The Wild Standard: Flags for Every Freak to Fly

For loft-dwellers, the struggle to find art pieces that can cover a large blank wall without breaking the bank is real. Enter the Wild Standard, a flag-making company that makes exactly those kinds of pieces (and, for the record, they look great on small walls, too). With flags ranging from hometown pride (We see you, Nashville!) to all things entomological, there's a little something for everyone. 

"The Wild Standard started as a favor for a friend," co-owner Linsey Metcalf says. "Our friend Phil, from Foster in Atlanta, asked if I would design and produce a flag for his co-working space. I agreed to help and went to work on design and fabrics. Once we landed on the final direction, I pulled in my friend Tara to help with prototypes and stitching up the final flags. Tara and I balanced each other well and had a great time working with our hands in this way, so we thought we would give it a shot. That was a little over 16 months ago. The Wild Standard is still just Tara and me, but when we started,we both had full-time jobs and were making flags at nights and on the weekends. Now, Tara is able to run production full-time for us, and I fill in where I can at nights and on weekends."

The flags Metcalf and her partner make have a specific aesthetic — one that should appeal to minimalists and lovers of all things rustic alike. "We pull from a bit of history and traditional flagmaking, as well as a little minimalism," she explains.

Metcalf and her partner have plans for expansion, too: " As far as growth in new offerings, we have expanded to offer custom flags, as well as a smaller flag option to our large standard." 

"For the future, we would like to try our hand at different styles and aesthetics," she adds. "We are currently dabbling in nautically influenced flags with a minimal aesthetic, as well as flags with a heavier patchwork influence."

Check out some of our favorite Wild Standard flags, and get your own right here.

A Nashville flag out in the wild

Some creative inspiration

Droppin' wisdom

Don't mess with Texas

Everyone's favorite crooked state


Lede photo courtesy of Instagram, by Kate Edwards

LISTEN: Smooth Hound Smith, ‘Forever Cold’

Artist: Smooth Hound Smith
Hometown: Nashville, TN
Song: "Forever Cold"
Album: Sweet Tennessee Honey
Release Date: January 15

In Their Words: “It's inspired by somewhat-true events and it's an East Nashville ghost story. Between Caitlin and myself, we played everything on that track except Sarah Jarosz's backing vocal, and really built the groove from the ground up in the studio.” — Zack Smith


Photo Credit: Kelli Dirks

We Sell Hope: Nashville’s J&J’s Market and Café

“A place belongs forever to whomever claims it hardest, remembers it most obsessively, wrenches it from itself, shapes it, renders it, loves it so radically that he remakes it in his own image.” 

— Joan Didion


At what point does a place become more than just a place? When does a pile of brick and mortar take on a life of its own — one that not only influences its community but, eventually, fosters one itself? It may be a question without an answer, but if anyone knows, it's Sam Huh, owner and general manager of J&J's Market and Café in Midtown Nashville, Tennessee. 

J&J's Market first opened as a small grocery and convenience store in 1974. The name came from its owner, Joe Johnson, who eventually passed down the family business to his son, Joe Johnson, Jr. The younger of the two Johnsons added the building that would eventually become the coffee shop and seating area, that space formerly occupied by a laundromat. But it wasn't until Huh purchased the business in 2003 that JJ's became what it is today: a Midtown institution that appeals to students and tourists alike, a quiet haven amid a sea of loud bars and chain restaurants, a nondescript bastion of what Nashville used to be before the City added a capital-I "It."

Huh, who moved to Nashville from South Korea in 1995 to put his PhD in economics to good use at Vanderbilt University, has worked tirelessly over the years to make JJ's into what it is today. "It was not like this," Huh says, gesturing to the quietly bustling shop. "We smoked cigars. We played CDs. I had about 200 CDs of disco music. After 6 pm we played jazz music. We had a CD changer with 100 CDs — old-fashioned. Those were the old days." And, though his personal touch is everywhere, he kept the original name. "We kept the name because the name was not important," he explains. And that's probably for the best — while the sign says J&J's Market and Café, most regulars call it JJ's. Huh calls it JJ. 

Over the last 12 years, JJ's has evolved into one of the most eclectic spots in town. As you walk in the front convenience store — welcomed indoors by one of the coolest old-school neon signs around — you're greeted by a hand-selected assortment of hard-to-find candy, a wall of cigarettes and cigars, and a sign that beckons you in to the back coffee shop. The store itself carries a careful mix of high- and low-brow snacks, perfect for those days when you need both a Kinder Milk Bar and a bag of Flamin' Hot Cheetos. There's also a wall of beer coolers — Huh is quick to point out that JJ's was the first establishment in Nashville to enact the beloved "build your own six-pack" rule — though there are always local selections on draft, if you plan on sticking around. You can grab a number of necessities — deodorant, cleaning supplies, medicines — on a shelf near the door. 

You walk into the coffee area to an original exposed brick wall, a sea of mismatched furniture, and a red velvet curtain in the very back of the room that doubles as a stage backdrop when the coffeehouse hosts events. Visually, it's almost overwhelming. There's a fabric reproduction of Gustav Klimt's 1908 Symbolist painting "The Kiss" hanging from the ceiling; there are posters of Bukowski and French art house films on the walls; even the bathrooms are covered in graffiti, but of a less lewd variety than is typically seen — "Alpaca Queen" and "Legalize Ragu" are among its more notable tags. The coffee menu was handwritten by a former employee (Her photo is also up on the board.) and features drinks named after employees and customers, like "Keeker's Koffler," which combines the name of a former barista and a regular patron. And, tellingly, there is an entire wall of postcards and letters — from all across the globe — sent to Huh by admirers of his shop because, if anyone loves JJ's as much as he does, it's the customers who frequent it. 

I'm one of those customers. I've visited JJ's several times a week for over eight years now. It was one of the first coffee shops I visited as a terrified, homesick freshman at Belmont University, and I've been going back ever since. So many of my life's more important moments have happened inside those exposed brick walls — I bonded with some of my earliest college friends there; I nervously met people for first dates; I even more nervously said goodbye on last dates. I wrote the vast majority of an overly earnest, though well-intentioned, undergraduate thesis there. I bought multiple copies of the first magazine, American Songwriter, to print my writing, a 150-word album review in a 2009 issue, from the market's newsstand. I finally met a long-distance colleague who ended up being a dear friend at a corner table earlier this year. And a year-and-a-half ago, when I decided to take a huge risk and quit my day job to pursue writing full-time, I made JJ's my unofficial office. I even wrote my resignation later while curled up on the couch.

Most recently, JJ's has served as refuge for me from another kind of life event: one of those world-rocking breakups that can render one's future a terrifyingly blank slate. I've managed to drag myself out of bed in the mornings over the last couple months thanks in no small part to the promise of a cup of coffee and some familiarity at what's truly become my second home. While hunched over a JJ's table, I've read new books; I've poured myself into work; I've made — and followed through with — a tattoo appointment. I've made plans. I've come back to myself. After all, where better to imagine a new life than the place that's been so integral to building my current one? 

Like so many regular JJ's customers — and if you go even a couple times you realize there are a LOT of us — I've grown to feel like JJ's is part of my family. And Huh feels that familial connection just as much as his customers do. He knows where all of his regulars sit, and can tell the story behind every piece of furniture in the room … almost all of which was donated by, you guessed it, loving patrons. "You’ve come here for eight years, so when I think of you, Brittney, I think you might use that table," he says, gesturing to various pieces. "For each table and chair, I have memories of a specific person or a specific group. That was donated by a family who moved to a foreign country. This was donated a lady named Kim, she is a professor at Vanderbilt in the department of psychology. This was donated by a professor in Korea. I didn’t buy that much. Because they love this place, just like you. When they move, they say, ‘Sam, I have a chair that would go really well with JJ! Do you want it?’" He laughs. 

For students who write their dissertations at JJ's, Huh keeps a special display of completed dissertation covers to honor their hard work. "They go through agony," he jokes. "They cry. Sometimes they have fun! But I cheer them, because I have a PhD and I understand the long journey." For artists who display their work in the shop's lounge area, Huh doesn't take a commission, instead requesting one piece be donated to the café's decor. Celebrities aren't immune to the charm of JJ's, either. There's a photo of Robin Williams visiting the café hanging above the cash register. It was taken when he was in Nashville filming Boulevard, one of the last films he'd complete before his untimely death in 2014. "He was quiet, humble," Huh says of Williams. "A good man." 

And for his employees, both past and present, he keeps a special corner of portraits, each barista smiling in his or her customized apron. Huh's employees are like his children. He takes great pains to hire people who will add to the community he's built and who will treat the job as more than just a paycheck, and he takes greater pains to nurture them. He wants them to understand and embody the JJ's mission statement: "We sell hope, not merchandise." 

"When I hire new people, I ask the person, 'If you are to sell hope, what do you have to have?'" he explains. "And they say, ‘Um, hope?’ ‘Is it your hope or my hope?’ ‘My hope.’ So you must have your hope. The next question is, ‘Is it hard to keep the hope?’ ‘It’s not easy.’ Sometimes it evaporates, I tell them. You have to work hard to keep your hope, I tell them. You must love yourself first. Hope is priceless and invisible. At your age, endurance is the key thing. If they cannot endure, they cannot reach their goal. Without endurance, we cannot get through. You’re gonna have trouble with customers. You’re gonna have trouble with the machines. You’re gonna have trouble with other staff. Trouble, trouble, trouble. But be hopeful."

Huh believes this is what sets JJ's apart from big chains like Starbucks or the trendier shops that have been popping up all over town since Nashville took a turn for the artisanal a couple of years ago. And he's right: JJ's is different. There are no pour-overs. There are no $9 coffee concoctions that take 10 minutes to make. There are, refreshingly, no mason jars. JJ's opened long before the boutique coffee trend hit Nashville, and it's one of the few spots left in town where you can walk in, as an older man just did, and say, "Coffee and a paper" and not get scoffed at by a mustachioed hipster.

Instead, JJ's coffee has Huh's own special ingredient — love. "When you make coffee, you put your love in it," he says. "When people say, ‘Your coffee tastes awesome. Your coffee tastes better than Starbucks.’ I say, 'I appreciate it, but I didn’t do it.' Coffee is coffee. But there’s only one thing the coffee drinker can’t find anywhere but here: It’s you. It’s the love." He recounted meeting a woman who had just lost her job during the recession. She was crying when she came inside. "I'm a coffeemaker, so what can I say? 'What about something chocolatey? I'll make best mocha for you, then you'll drink it and you'll be okay.' I put my hope in there. She came back to me as she was about to leave and we hugged each other. That was really special to me."

"I’d like to tell you this about JJ, because you know JJ is very special," Huh says, leaning in. "JJ is the illusion. JJ, the building, is an illusion. The reality of JJ is love and memories of a relationship we built together with customers, my staff and me. We have built it together — JJ. You also, you’re here eight years. You say, ‘This is my home!’ That’s a really great honor to a business owner. Who’s going to say, ‘This is my home?' Home is very special. So thank you so much."

He tells me this as he explains JJ's latest challenge and what has, of late, become the biggest obstacle in his tenure as a local business owner. (His impressive resumé also boasts businesses like the beloved Bobbie's Dairy Dip.) Huh knows better than anyone how Nashville has changed over the years. He recounted how Midtown — now home to Nashville stalwarts like Hattie B's Hot Chicken and GiGi's Cupcakes — used to be a dangerous area, how shortly after taking over JJ's, the building was broken into. He also knows, unfortunately, how those changes can affect local businesses. Earlier this year, Huh was hit with the news that the building that houses JJ's was purchased by a development company called Land Development.com, its eventual fate to become mixed-use new construction. Huh and his lawyers are fighting to uphold his lease, which runs through 2022, but the future of JJ's will be determined by a court in April, 2016. 

"I told them I’m not going to put JJ back in your new development," he says of reopening in the new construction. "It has to be modern — they don’t want this old antique or ‘ugly’ concept. They want square."

After our interview, Huh looks up and asks, “So, how is your life?” I told him that I'm working through something of a rough patch, but that, thanks to my own community — of which his establishment is no small part — I'm finally starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

"Are you doing things you love?

"I'm trying to."

"Good. Always do things you love. That's the secret to happiness."

We take each other's photos. We hug. He also leaves me with two very timely pieces of advice. First, "There is no best choice. All that matters is your effort to make your choice best." Second, "Don’t trust anyone, but do your best to be the one who anyone can trust." 

As he walks me out, he introduces me to Trevor, one of the baristas who has served me coffee and snacks several times a week for years now. “This is her home, Trevor!" he laughs. "Better keep it clean!” 

"When you love someone, every moment is shadowed by fear of loss. Then loss occurs, and you feel more love than ever." I've been turning these lines, from Roger Rosenblatt's 2012 memoir Kayak Morning, over in my head for a couple of months now as I try to sort out what it means to lose. And likewise, every time I step into JJ's, I wonder how many more times I'll get to buy a coffee and a Kinder bar, how many more mornings I'll get to spend on the front couch, listening to classical music and watching the rest of the regulars roll in and out, how long before I'll have to find a new place to call home.

It’s unclear what will end up happening to JJ’s. If Huh loses his lawsuit, he’ll have to move to a new location, and he hasn’t sorted out how he feels about that yet. If he wins, JJ's will keep its Midtown home until 2022, and he'll eventually decide how to move forward from there. One thing is certain, though: Sam Huh and the community he has built at JJ's will not fall victim to any developer's wrecking ball. As he says, the building is an illusion. It's the unbreakable sense of community Huh, his employees, and his customers formed that will endure long after another cookie-cutter condominium climbs the cluttered skyline. He's at peace with whatever happens. He's fought his fight. Because, after all, hearts get broken, buildings get torn down, loss sneaks up on you when you least expect it. But with hope, community, and a strong cup of coffee, we can all endure just about anything.


Photos by Laura Partain